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JOURNAL 

OF  AN 

EXPLORING  TOUR 

BEYOND  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS, 

UNDER  THE  DIRECTION  OF  THE 

A.  B.  C.  F.  M. 

IN  THE  YEARS  1835,  ’36,  AND  ’37; 

CONTAINING 


A DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHY,  GEOLOGY,  CLIMATE,  PRODUC- 
TIONS OF  THE  COUNTRY,  AND  THE  NUMBERS,  MANNERS, 
AND  CUSTOMS  OF  THE  NATIVES  : 

WITH  A 


MAP  OF  OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Tty  REV.  SAMUEL  PARKER,  A.  M. 


THIRD  EDITION. 


ITHACA,  N.  Y. 

BUCK,  ANDRUS,  & WOODRUFF. 

BOSTON  : CROCKER  &,  BREWSTER. NEW-YORK  *.  DAYTON  & SAXTON  mr 

COLLINS,  KEESE,  &,  CO. PHILADELPHIA  : GRIGG  & ELLIOT. 

LONDON  : WILEY  & PUTNAM. 


18  42 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1838,  by 
Samuel  Parker,  in  the  Clerk’s  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the 
Northern  District  of  New  York. 


MACK,  ANDRUS,  WOODRUFF,  PRINTERS,  ITHACA. 


RECOMMENDATIONS. 


FROM  H.  HUMPHREY,  D.  D.,  PRESIDENT  OF  AMHERST  COLLEGE. 

I have  read  Mr.  Parker’s  Exploring  Tour  beyond  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, with  uncommon  interest.  It  embodies  a great  mass  of  facts 
and  many  valuable  reflections,  which  cannot  fail  of  making  it  highly 
instructive  as  well  as  entertaining  to  every  class  of  readers.  I am 
glad  to  learn  that  a second  edition  has  been  so  soon  called  for.  It  is 
not  a book  of  lofty  pretensions,  but  of  unadorned  verity  and  high  in- 
trinsic merit.  The  friends  of  the  missionary  cause,  and  of  the  abori- 
ginal tribes  beyond  the  mountains,  who  have  not  yet  seen  this  volume, 
have  a rich  reversion  before  them.  H.  HUMPHREY. 

Amherst  College,  ) 

Nov.  7,  1839.  $ 


FROM  REV.  EDWARD  HITCHCOCK,  A.  M.,  PROFESSOR  OF  CHEMISTRY  AND 
NATURAL  HISTORY,  AMHERST  COLLEGE. 

I am  happy  to  concur  in  the  above  views  respecting  the  Exploring 
Tour  of  Mr.  Parker.  EDWARD  HITCHCOCK. 


FROM  NOAH  WEBSTER,  L L.  D.  NEW  HAVEN. 

New  Haven,  Nov.  12th,  1839. 

Dear  Sir, 

I have  read  the  account  of  your  journey  over  the  Rocky  Mountains 
to  the  Pacific,  with  much  satisfaction.  It  contains  much  valuable  in- 
formation respecting  a part  of  our  continent,  which  is  imperfectly  ex- 
plored. I hope  the  publication  of  the  book  will  amply  reward  your 
labors.  N.  WEBSTER. 


FROM  JAMES  RICHARDS,  D.  D.  PROFESSOR  IN  AUBURN  THEOLOGICAL 
SEMINARY. 

I have  read  the  Tour  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Parker  among  the  Western 
Indians,  and  was  much  gratified  by  his  statements.  His  travels  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  his  visit  to  the  far  distant  tribes  beyond, 
are  connected  with  many  striking  facts  and  incidents,  which  cannot 
fail  to  interest  the  inquisitive  and  reflecting.  In  my  judgment,  the 
work  is  calculated  to  benefit  the  cause  of  Science  and  of  Missions. 

JAMES  RICHARDS. 


Auburn,  Nov.  14,  1839. 


IV 


RECOMMENDATIONS. 


“ This  is  a work  of  extraordinary  merit,  and  furnishes  rich  food 
alike  to  the  man  of  science  and  the  unlearned.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
deeply  interesting  volumes  that  has  ever  issued  from  the  American 
press ; inasmuch  as  it  presents,  in  a plain  and  unaffected  style,  stores 
of  knowledge  concerning  a portion  of  our  country  which  heretofore 
has  been  but  partially  explored.  This  is  a volume  which  commends 
itself  to  the  careful  perusal  of  men  of  every  class,  and,  so  marvellous 
are  its  truths,  that  it  needs  but  the  merit  of  being  a work  of  fiction , to 
gain  for  it  universal  circulation.” — Missionary  Herald,  Cincinnati. 


“ Mr.  Parker’s  observations  on  the  geology  and  geography  of  the 
country  through  which  he  passed  are  alone  richly  worth  twice  the  cost 
of  his  volume.  To  the  friends  of  the  unfortunate  Red  Man  his  work 
is  a noble  weapon  ; to  the  advocates  of  Foreign  Missions  an  unanswer- 
able evidence  of  their  necessity  and  value.  It  is  illustrated  by  a new 
map  from  actual  observation  of  the  territory  of  the  United  States 
west  of  the  limits  of  Missouri,  and  a lithograph  exhibiting  the  extra- 
ordinary rock  formation  through  which  the  Oregon  has  worn  its  way. 
The  book  is  written  in  a plain,  familiar  style,  and  is  intended  to  em- 
body only  such  facts  as  may  be  said  to  come  absolutely  within  the 
knowledge  of  the  author.  We  earnestly  recommend  it  to  the  atten- 
tion of  the  entire  reading  public.” — New  Yorker , May  19,  1838. 


Acknowledgements  are  due  to  numerous  editors  of  periodicals  and 
papers  who  have  given  the  work  a favorable  notice. 


PREFACE. 


In  presenting  to  the  public  the  Journal  of  a Tour  beyond 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  only  apology,  necessary  to  offer, 
is  the  hope  of  promoting  a more  extensive  and  particular 
knowledge,  than  has  hitherto  been  furnished,  of  the  condi- 
tion of  that  important  section  of  our  country.  The  author’s 
mode  of  traveling  furnished  many  opportunities  for  obser- 
vation, being  conducted  with  leisure,  through  one  of  the 
most  interesting  portions  of  the  wide  territories  of  the  west. 
It  is  believed  that  no  defects  exist  in  the  work,  irrecon- 
cilable with  a strict  adherence  to  facts,  and  this  scrupu- 
lous regard  to  truth  is  the  principal  merit  claimed  for  the 
volume.  The  most  of  what  is  narrated  came  under  the 
author’s  personal  observation,  and  whatever  is  stated  which 
did  not,  was  obtained  from  gentlemen  connected  with  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  whose  reputation  for  honesty  and 
candor,  as  well  as  capability  of  judging  intelligently,  is  well 
established.  This  source  of  information  was  available  by 
collecting  and  comparing  the  statements  of  different  indi- 
viduals, retaining  what  corresponded  with  his  own  observa- 
tion, or  was  well  supported  by  evidence.  The  belief  is 

cherished,  that  the  following  work  contains  a greater  amount 

2 


VI 


PREFACE. 


of  statistical  information  in  regard  to  the  country,  and 
important  facts,  than  is  to  be  found  in  any  production 
furnished  by  the  press.  Having  gone  over  a greater  ex- 
tent of  territory  than  any  traveler  who  had  preceded,  and 
with  the  express  object  of  exploring  the  condition  of  the 
aboriginal  population,  this  position  cannot  be  considered  as 
assumed.  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  passed  the  Rocky 
Mountains  under  a governmental  appointment  to  explore 
the  country,  more  than  thirty  years  since,  and  their  pub- 
lished narrative  carries  with  it  evidence  of  candor  and  in- 
telligence, and  contains  much  valuable  information;  yet 
their  opportunities  for  observation  were  somewhat  limited. 
They  passed  over  the  great  chain  of  mountains  from  the 
head  waters  of  the  Missouri  between  the  45°  and  46°  of 
north  latitude,  and  came  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Coos- 
cootskee,  and  followed  that  river  to  its  junction  with  the 
Lewis  or  Snake  river,  and  then  proceeded  by  water  to  the 
Pacific  ocean  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  wintered 
upon  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  and  early  the  following 
spring  returned  to  the  mountains  by  the  same  route  which 
they  pursued  on  their  outward  journey.  All  other  persons 
who  have  published  any  history  of  their  travels  beyond  the 
mountains,  were  persons  engaged  in  the  fur  trade,  and  many 
of  their  observations  upon  different  sections  of  the  country 
are  just,  but  they  are  deficient  in  statistical  information, 
and  their  productions  are  mostly  confined  to  personal  ad* 


PREFACE. 


Vll 


ventures,  anecdotes  of  battles  with  Blackfeet  or  Crow  In- 
dians, starvation,  and  hair-breadth  escapes.  Justice  to  the 
public  requires  fidelity  in  the  historian  and  traveler.  It  is 
not  our  business  to  originate  facts,  but  to  record  them.  The 
license  given  to  poets,  or  writers  of  romance,  cannot  be 
tolerated  here,  and  no  flights  of  a lively  imagination,  or 
graphic  powers  in  relating  passing  occurrences,  can  atone 
for  impressions  which  are  not  in  accordance  with  truth. 

While  it  was  a leading  object  to  become  acquainted  with 
the  situation  of  the  remote  Indian  tribes,  and  their  disposi- 
tion in  regard  to  teachers  of  Christianity,  yet  a careful  at- 
tention was  given  to  the  geography  of  the  country,  with  its 
productions;  the  climate  and  seasons,  animals,  lakes,  rivers, 
and  smaller  fountains ; forests  and  prairies,  mountains  and 
valleys,  its  mineral  and  geological  structure,  and  all  the  va- 
rious aspects  of  its  physical  condition.  The  country  here 
described  is  sui  generis  ; every  thing  is  formed  on  a large 
scale.  Its  lofty  and  perpetual  snow-topped  mountains  rising 
20,000  feet  or  more  above  the  ocean,  the  trees  of  the  forest, 
the  widely  extended  prairies,  plants  of  enormous  growth,  and 
the  results  of  volcanic  agency  which  are  met  with  in  almost 
every  direction,  render  the  whole  an  ever  increasing  scene 
of  interest  to  the  traveler;  and  if  any  statements  appear 
large,  it  is  because  the  facts  are  so  in  themselves. 

It  has  been  an  object  in  writing  this  volume  to  compress 
as  much  as  possible  the  amount  of  information,  instead  of 


PREFACE. 


viii 

unnecessarily  extending  it,  and  the  hope  is  indulged,  that 
while  these  facts  are  perused,  the  desire  may  be  awakened 
if  it  do  not  already  exist,  to  benefit  the  original,  the  rightful 
owners,  and  with  the  exception  of  a few  thousand  fur  tra- 
ders scattered  in  every  direction  over  this  territory,  the  sole 
occupants  of  this  wide  field  of  uncultivated  nature. 

The  map  which  accompanies  the  work  has  been  prepared 
with  much  labor  and  care ; and  though  some  minute  parts 
are  omitted,  it  will  be  found  far  more  accurate  than  any 
which  has  before  been  published.  In  addition  to  my  own 
surveys,  I have  availed  myself  of  those  of  gentlemen  com 
nected  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  in  parts  which  I did 
not  visit,  and  am  especially  indebted  to  Vancouver  and  the 
labors  of  other  explorers  for  much  that  I have  delineated  of 
the  North-West  coast  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  the  Islands. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


The  interest  the  public  have  taken  in  this  work,  evinced 
by  the  many  highly  commendatory  reviews  and  notices, 
which  have  appeared  in  numerous  periodicals,  religious,  sci- 
entific, and  political,  both  in  this  country  and  in  Europe, 
together  with  the  sale  of  the  first  edition,  has  influenced  the 
author  to  publish  a second  edition.  Many  persons,  whose 
judgment,  extensive  knowledge,  and  piety,  entitle  them  to 
be  held  in  high  estimation,  have  encouraged  him  to  believe 
that  this  work  has  been  interesting  to  men  of  science,  useful 
in  advancing  general  knowledge,  and  promoting  the  spirit 
of  missions,  and  what  is  not  the  least  to  be  valued,  a sym- 
pathy for  the  long  neglected  Indians  of  Oregon. 

As  it  was  an  object  in  preparing  the  first  edition  to  com- 
press as  great  an  amount  of  information  as  possible  in  the 
compass  of  a duodecimo  volume,  so  in  this — the  same  object 
has  been  pursued,  and  while  some  parts  have  been  en- 
larged, others  have  been  abridged.  The  whole  work  has 
been  attentively  revised  and  corrected.  It  is  hoped  that  it 
will  contribute  its  influence,  however  small  it  may  be,  in 
aiding  the  cause  of  human  welfare.  I shall  be  pardoned  if 

I assert  the  sentiment,  that  the  acquisition  of  all  knowledge 

2* 


X 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


should  be  made  subservient  to  this  important  use,  and  that  the 
gold  from  any  region,  if  it  cannot  be  refined  in  this  crucible, 
is  of  no  real  value,  and  whatever  will  not  directly  or  in- 
directly, nearly  or  remotely,  concur  in  this  great  end,  must 
at  length  endure  the  ultimate  fate  of  that  “ knowledge  which 
shall  vanish  away.” 


Previous  editions  having  been  so  well  received,  a third 
is  now  published,  having  undergone  a careful  revision,  and 
some  parts  have  been  re-written,  and  additions  have  been 
made.  It  is  hoped  that  it  will  be  found  not  the  less  worthy 
of  public  favor. 


Ithaca,  1842. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  Tour  commenced  by  way  of  Buffalo,  Erie,  and  Pittsburgh  ; 
passage  to  Cincinnati  in  the  steam-boat  Ohioan ; the  steam- 
boat takes  fire ; Cincinnati ; Falls  of  the  Ohio ; the  Ohio  river ; 
Ohio  and  Kentucky ; confluence  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
rivers;  Point  Girardou;  beautiful  appearance  of  fire  on  the 
prairie;  St.  Genevieve,  old  custom ; Herculaneum;  gambling 
on  board  the  steam-boats;  St.  Louis;  Dr.  M.  Whitman  ; Mr. 
Fontenelle .17 


CHAPTER  II. 

Leave  St.  Louis  for  Liberty;  passage  up  the  Missouri;  snags; 
a walk  on  shore ; Jefferson  city ; river  scenery ; steam-boat 
Siam;  sand  bars;  Lexington;  steam-boat  disaster;  Liberty; 
Navahoe  Indians ; ride  to  Cantonment  Leavenworth ; amusing 
provincialisms;  caravan  commence  their  journey;  first  en- 
campment; Iowa  Indians;  Blacksnake  hills;  Nodaway  river; 

Elk  ; cross  the  Neshnabotana ; rich  soil ; rapid  rise  of  the  north 
branch  of  Neshnabotana ; mode  of  living  ; mounds  of  the  west; 
crossing  of  the  Missouri ; Bellevue ; Missionaries.  . . 26 


CHAPTER  III. 

Continuance  at  Council  Bluffs;  interesting  scenery;  Indian  curi- 
osity ; information  obtained  about  several  Indian  tribes ; spas- 
modic cholera ; an  Indian  chief  killed ; leave  Bellevue  for  the 
Black  Hills ; storm  of  rain ; heavy  thunder  storm ; Elkhorn 
river,  the  country  around ; Loups  fork  of  the  Platte ; manner 
of  encamping;  Big  Ax,  Pawnee  chief ; Indian  feasting;  fourth 
of  July;  Messrs.  Dunbar  and  Allis;  thunder  storm;  Indian 
ornaments  ; effects  of  drunkenness ; bite  of  a rattle-snake ; buf- 

2* 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


folo  seen ; prairie  horse-fly ; forks  of  the  Platte  ; want  of  wood ; 
swiftness  of  antelopes  ; climate  ; thousands  of  buffalo  ; badgers; 
prairie  dog ; interesting  bluffs  ; old  castle  ; the  chimney,  or  bea- 
con ; an  alarm  ; Ogallallah  Indians,  their  lodges  ; Black  Hills.  43 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Black  Hills;  day  of  indulgence  ; buffalo  dance  ; the  desire  of  In- 
dians for  instruction  ; met  the  chiefs  in  council ; re-commenced 
our  journey  for  rendezvous  ; anthracite  coal ; species  of  worm- 
wood ; Red  Bute ; traces  of  grizzly  bears  ; geology ; Rock  In- 
dependence ; Rocky  Mountains ; perpetual  snow ; valley  through 
the  mountains ; “ thunder  spirits”  gone  ; an  alarm  ; waters  of 
the  Colorado. 69 


CHAPTER  V. 

Arrive  at  rendezvous ; trappers  and  hunters  ; four  Indian  nations ; 
Flatheads  and  Nez  Perces,  no  reason  why  so  called ; surgical 
operations;  an  interview  with  the  Flathead  and  Nez  Perce 
chiefs  ; their  anxiety  for  religious  instruction  ; return  of  Doct. 
Whitman  ; Shoshones  and  Utaws  ; mountain  life.  . . 79 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Part  with  my  associate  ; arrive  at  head  waters  of  the  Columbia ; 
kindness  of  the  Indians;  narrow  defile;  geology;  Jackson’s 
Hole ; wild  flax ; trappers  go  out  on  a hunt ; mountain  pros- 
pect ; Trois  Tetons ; danger  from  affrighted  buffalo ; Pierre’s 
Hole ; volcanic  chasm ; children  on  horseback ; interesting 
worship  with  the  Indians ; burial  of  a child ; scarcity  of  food ; 
a timely  supply;  Salmon  river;  expected  battle;  geological 
observations  ; scene  of  mourning.  86 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Salmon  river;  mineral  salt ; chimneys;  forest  trees,  new  species 
of  pine ; geology ; sulphur  lake  ; a rare  animal ; new  species 


CONTENTS. 


xiii 


of  squirrels  and  pheasant ; came  to  the  Lewis  branch  of  the 
Columbia ; ferryman ; Basaltic  formation  ; fine  climate  ; arrive 
at  Walla  Walla 114 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Description  of  Walla  Walla;  the  kind  treatment  of  the  Indians 
by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company;  leave  Walla  Walla  for  Fort  Van- 
couver ; loquacious  orator ; rapids ; introduction  to  the  Cayuse 
Indians;  morning  prospect;  long  rapids;  Volcanic  mountains; 
trial  of  Indian  generosity;  arrival  at  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia 
river ; rousing  effects  of  oratory ; La  Dalles ; Boston  trading 
company ; remarkable  subsidence  ; Cascades  ; Chenooks  are 
the  Flatheads  and  Nez  Percds ; dangerous  rapids ; Indian  bu- 
rying  places;  Pillar  Rock;  interesting  waterfall;  sea  fowl; 
arrive  at  Fort  Vancouver 130 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Description  of  Fort  Vancouver;  departure  for  Fort  George  and 
mouth  of  the  Columbia ; mouths  of  the  Multnomah  : Wappatoo 
Island  ; May  Dacre  ; Coffin  Rock  ; Cowalitz  river  ; Indian 
friendship  ; Pacific  Ocean  ; Gray’s  Bay  ; Astoria.  . . . 148 


CHAPTER  X. 

Description  of  Fort  George;  mouth  of  the  Columbia;  dangerous 
bar ; mountainous  coast ; varieties  of  timber ; good  location  for 
a missionary  station  ; continued  rains  ; dense  forests  ; excur- 
sion in  a canoe  down  the  bay  ; view  of  the  coast ; disasters  at 
the  entrance  of  the  Columbia  ; ship  William  and  Anne  ; ship 
Isabella;  Ton  quin ; Japanese  junk;  reflections;  water  fowl; 
return  to  Fort  Vancouver ; the  regard  Indians  show  the  dead ; 
Indian  kindness.  . 155 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Review  of  journeyings ; school ; journey  up  the  Willamette ; walk 
upon  the  pebbly  shore ; falls;  settlement  on  the  Willamette ; 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


Methodist  mission ; epidemic  ; voyage  down  the  river  ; hospi- 
tality of  Wanaxka  ; construction  of  his  house  ; Fort  William, 
on  the  Wappatoo  island ; astonishing  thirst  for  ardent  spirits  : 
return  to  Fort  Vancouver.  . . . . . . 168 

1 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Services  on  the  Sabbath;  obstacles  to  the  gospel ; discouraging 
case  ; manner  of  spending  time  ; description  of  Vancouver  fur 
and  farming  establishment ; garden  productions,  lumber ; com- 
merce; peltries;  system  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  ; waste 
of  life ; hardships  of  a hunter’s  life ; their  perseverance ; Chris- 
tian principle  ; worldly  principle 182 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Indian  population  ; diseases  ; mortality  ; attributed  to  cultivation 
of  the  soil ; destitute  of  medical  science  ; holidays  ; customs  at 
home  ; customs  of  the  Indians ; resemblance  to  Jewish  customs 
in  punishment ; marriage  contracts  ; condition  of  the  females; 
slavery  ; division  into  tribes ; points  of  dissimilarity  ; sac- 
rifices ; language.  . . . . . . . .191 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

The  various  animals  beyond  the  Mountains.  . . . 199 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Fish  ; description  of  salmon  ; salmon  fishery  ; ornithology  ; den- 
drology ; shrubbery ; nutritive  roots  ; geography  ; mountains  ; 
valleys  ; plains  ; forests  ; rivers  ; soil ; seasons.  . . 212 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Character  and  condition  of  the  Indians  ; Indians  of  the  plains  ; 
their  persons  ; dress;  wealth;  habits;  physical  character ; man- 
ufactures ; their  religion  ; wars  ; vices ; moral  disposition ; su- 
perstitions ; medicine  men. 228 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Indians  of  the  lower  country. 244 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Conversation  with  an  intelligent  Indian  ; meeting  with  Indians  ; 
early  and  mild  season  ; La  Dalles  Indians  ; their  anxiety  to 
receive  the  gospel ; Nootka  hummingbird  ; number  and  loca- 
tion of  the  Indians  in  the  lower  country;  Indians  of  the  north  ; 
the  agitated  question  ; solitariness 256 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Departure  for  the  upper  country  ; American  hunters  ; geology  at 
the  Cascades ; Indian  honesty  ; escape  in  a dangerous  gale  ; 
the  Falls  a favorable  location  for  a missionary  station  ; tender 
sympathy;  famished  Indians;  arrival  at  Walla  Walla  ; inter- 
esting meeting  of  Indians  ; opportunity  to  give  them  religious 
instruction  ; a walk  ; the  nutritious  quality  of  prairie  grass.  268 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Journey  to  the  Nez  Percd  country  ; funeral  of  a child ; natural 
scenery  ; worship  on  the  Sabbath  ; return  to  Walla  Walla  ; in- 
dustry of  the  Indians ; battle  ground  ; practice  of  smoking  ; 
journey  to  Colvile.  ........  280 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Paloose  Indians ; Pavilion  river  ; extraordinary  excavation ; lost 
on  the  prairie  ; Indian  principle  ; Spokein  woods  and  country; 
Indian  ferry  ; Spokein  valley ; granite ; volcanic  curiosities ; fer- 
tile valley  ; worship  with  The  Spokeins  ; Mill  river  valley  ; ar- 
rival at  Fort  Colvile ; description  of  the  place ; leave  Colvile  for 
Fort  Okanagan  ; a mountain  of  marble  ; Grand  Coul6,  or  old 
bed  of  the  Columbia  ; Okanagan  described  ; Long  rapids  ; ar- 
rive at  Walla  Walla.  ........  289 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

A summary  of  the  Indians  of  the  Upper  country  ; names  of  the 
tribes,  their  locations  and  numbers  ; leave  Walla  Walla  for  Fort 
Vancouver  ; swift  passage  down  the  river ; run  the  Falls;  Cas- 
cades ; dangerous  eddy ; arrive  at  Vancouver  ; steam-boat  ex- 
cursion  308 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Geology.  ....... 


321 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

General  remarks  ; Meteorological  table.  ....  341 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

The  voyage  commenced  for  the  Sandwich  Islands ; passage  in 
the  Beaver  down  the  river ; take  passage  in  the  barque  Colum- 
bia ; detention  in  Chenook  bay  ; arrival  at  the  islands  ; worship 
in  the  native  church ; description  of  Oahu  ; the  Pari ; the  valley 
ofManoa:  description  of  Honolulu  ; ofWaititi;  heathen  tem- 
ple; Eva;  Waialua;  Keneohe  ; mountains;  salt  lake  ; geolo- 
gy; natural  productions  ; animals;  government;  tea  party  of 
the  royal  family  ; dinner  to  the  officers  of  the  Peacock  and  En- 
terprise ; decrease  of  population  ; unfair  negotiations ; foreign 
residents ; charity  school ; seamen’s  chapel ; burying  place  of 
the  royal  family ; missionary  success.  ....  357 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Departure  from  Oahu  in  ship  Phoenix  for  the  United  States ; call 
at  the  Society  Islands  ; brief  description  of  Tahiti  and  Eimeo ; 
severe  gales  of  wind  : Magellanic  clouds  ; Martin  Vass  Island  ; 
Trinidad ; arrival  at  New  London.  ....  378 


PARKER’S  TOUR. 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  Tour  commenced  by  way  of  Buffalo,  Erie  and  Pittsburgh — pas- 
sage to  Cincinnati  in  the  steam. boat  Ohioan — the  steam-boat  takes 
fire — Cincinnati — Falls  of  the  Ohio — the  Ohio  river — Ohio  and 
Kentucky — confluence  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers — Point 
Girardou — beautiful  appearance  of  fire  on  the  prairie — St.  Gene- 
vieve, old  custom — Herculaneum — gambling  on  board  the  steam- 
boats— St.  Louis — Dr.  M.  Whitman — Mr.  Fontenelle. 

The  wide  extent  of  country  beyond  the  Mississippi  and 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  its  inhabitants  and  physical  con- 
dition, has  been  a subject  of  interesting  enquiry  for  the  last 
thirty  years.  Many  things,  relating  to  the  possession  of 
the  country,  its  future  probable  importance  in  a political 
view,  its  population  and  trade,  have  occupied  much  atten- 
tion. The  Christian  public  have  not  been  inattentive  to  the 
interests,  moral  and  religious,  of  those  whom  the  God  of 
providence  has  placed  in  these  remote  regions,  and  who  are 
without  the  blessings  of  civilization  and  Christianity.  The 
American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions  ap- 
pointed an  exploring  mission  to  that  country,  to  ascertain  by 
personal  observation,  the  condition  and  character  of  the 
Indian  nations  and  tribes,  and  the  facilities  for  introducing 

the  gospel  and  civilization  among  them. 

3 


18 


PITTSBURGH. 


That  difficulties  and  dangers  would  be  incident  to  a jour- 
ney through  a country  of  such  extent,  uninhabited  except 
by  wandering  bands  of  Indians,  where  no  provisions  could 
be  obtained  besides  uncertain  game,  could  not  be  doubted. 
It  was  not  a consciousness  of  undaunted  courage,  or  indif- 
ference to  suffering,  or  the  love  of  romance,  which  fixed  my 
purpose  ; but  it  was  the  importance  of  the  object.  Although 
it  was  painful  to  bid  adieu  to  family  and  friends,  unapprised 
of  the  events  of  the  future,  yet  committing  all  to  the  gui- 
dance and  protection  of  an  all-wise  Providence,  the  enter- 
prise was  undertaken,  without  reluctance,  on  the  14th  of 
March,  1835.  Pursuing  the  journey  by  the  way  of  Buffalo 
and  Erie,  I arrived  at  Pittsburgh  on  the  twenty-fifth.  The 
intervening  distance  to  St.  Louis,  through  the  great  valley 
of  the  west,  had  lost  much  of  its  novelty,  having  previously 
passed  over  it,  and  long  since  has  it  ceased  to  excite  that  de- 
gree of  interest  in  the  community,  with  which  it  was  regard- 
ed before  the  numerous  descriptions  of  the  tourist  and  trav- 
eler had  rendered  its  general  features  familiar.  Only  a 
passing  notice,  therefore,  will  be  given. 

Leaving  Pittsburgh,  which,  from  its  multiplied  manufac- 
tories, may  be  styled  the  Birmingham  of  America,  I took 
passage  in  the  steam-boat  Ohioan,  for  Cincinnati,  four  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  distant,  by  the  river.  The  scenery  of 
the  Ohio,  as  it  pursues  its  meandering  course  to  the  Missis- 
sippi, presents  a most  beautiful  variety  of  forests,  and  culti- 
vated fields,  and  flourishing  villages.  On  the  28th,  we  ar- 
rived at  Cincinnati.  The  steam-boat  on  that  day  was  disco- 
vered to  be  on  fire  in  the  hold,  in  which  were  a large  quantity 
of  combustible  goods.  This  created  great  alarm.  A very 
strong  head  wind  blew  the  fire  from  the  furnace  down  the 
hatchwTay,  which,  after  removing  some  goods,  had  been 


CINCINNATI. 


19 


carelessly  left  open.  The  captain  immediately  rounded  the 
boat  to  the  shore,  and  no  sooner  was  it  gained,  than  there 
was  a general  rush  for  safety.  Some  of  the  passengers 
threw  out  their  baggage,  and  many  leaped  from  the  upper 
deck  to  the  land.  The  fire,  however,  was  subdued,  and  with 
considerable  difficulty  we  disengaged  the  boat  from  its 
grounded  position,  and  from  the  trees  among  which  it  was 
entangled,  and  wTe  were  again  under  way. 

Cincinnati  is  a large  city  for  a country  so  new,  and  from 
its  mature  appearance  would  hardly  be  thought  to  have 
been  the  growth  of  only  half  a century.  Its  population, 
composed  of  emigrants  from  New  England,  the  middle,  and 
some  of  the  southern  states,  and  from  various  parts  of  Eu- 
rope, is  consequently  not  very  homogeneous  in  its  character. 
Its  schools  and  institutions  of  literature,  promise  much  for 
the  great  interests  of  science  and  religion  in  this  interesting 
section  of  our  growing  country. 

Here  I exchanged  my  situation  on  board  the  Ohioan,  for 
the  Chien,  Captain  Reynolds,  for  St.  Louis,  which,  by  water 
is  six  hundred  and  ninety  miles  from  Cincinnati.  On  the 
30th,  we  passed  Louisville,  near  which  are  the  falls  of  the 
Ohio,  twenty-two  feet  in  height,  and  passable  by  boats  only 
in  high  water,  about  two  months  in  a year.  To  save  the 
expense  and  delay  of  portage  around  the  falls,  a canal  has 
been  constructed  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  two  miles  in 
length,  fifty  feet  wide,  and  forty  feet  deep. 

The  water  being  high,  w^e  passed  over  the  falls.  It  was 
a sublime  scene.  The  water  about  Louisville  moves  slowly 
and  smoothly ; but  as  you  approach  the  falls,  it  increases 
in  velocity  and  power.  You  soon  find  yourself  in  an  irre- 
sistible current;  and  you  are  anxious  to  know  whether 
your  pilots  are  well  skilled  in  their  profession.  You  look  at 


20 


THE  OHIO  RIVER OHIO  AND  KENTUCKY. 


them  to  see  if  they  betray  any  fear  ; you  find,  that  while 
their  attention  is  fixed,  their  countenances  are  serene.  Your 
fears  give  way  to  emotions  of  the  sublime.  The  boat  shoots 
forward  with  amazing  force  and  velocity,  and  very  soon 
you  find  yourself  gliding  along  in  the  wide-spread  calm 
below. 

The  Ohio  is  a noble  river,  affording  in  its  whole  course 
romantic  and  beautiful  prospects.  It  flows  in  a smooth  and 
easy  current,  and  is  diversified  on  every  side  with  rich  bot- 
tom land,  rolling  hills,  and  precipitous  bluffs.  These  hills 
and  bluffs,  in  many  places,  rise  abruptly  from  the  shore  of 
the  river,  in  other  places  they  recede  some  miles,  but  in 
every  part  are  in  view ; and  so  varied  is  the  scenery,  that 
there  is  no  weariness  caused  by  monotony.  No  where  has 
the  hand  of  industry  been  wanting  to  add  interest  in  pass- 
ing through  this  part  of  the  great  western  valley.  Farms, 
and  towns,  and  villages,  exhibit  the  advantage  that  has  been 
taken  of  the  exuberance  of  the  soil.  The  many  swift-mo- 
ving, panting  steam-boats  show  that  industry  furnishes  the 
means  of  wide-extended  and  profitable  commerce.  The 
striking  difference  in  the  taste  and  habits  of  the  people  in- 
habiting the  two  sides  of  the  river,  was  here  very  apparent. 
Upon  the  Ohio  side,  the  farms  and  neatly  painted  dwellings 
are  in  the  New  England  style,  while  on  the  Kentucky  side, 
scattered  here  and  there,  you  see  the  large  log  houses  of  the 
planters  in  a grade  of  architecture  considerably  above  the 
log  cabins  of  their  slaves,  by  which  they  are  surrounded, 
yet  log  houses  still.  These  are  built  two  stories  high,  with 
a wide  airy  hall  through  the  centre,  one  of  the  lower  rooms 
being  the  parlor,  and  the  other  serves  the  several  purposes 
of  a nursery,  sleeping,  and  eating  room.  Open,  frank  hos- 
pitality characterizes  the  Kentuckian,  which  is  pleasing  to 


CONFLUENCE  OF  OHIO  AND  MISSISSIPPI. 


21 


a stranger.  I offered  a lady  in  one  of  these  mansions 
some  tracts,  which  she  at  first  declined  with  the  enquiry, 
“ Do  you  think  we  are  heathen  ?”  “ No,  madam  ; but 

tracts  contain  much  that  is  interesting  to  all  classes 
of  people,  and  after  they  are  read,  can  be  circulated 
among  those  who  may  not  be  well  supplied  with  books.” 
I saw  but  very  few  houses  of  worship,  except  in  villa- 
ges. 

On  the  first  of  April  we  passed  out  of  the  waters  of  the 
Ohio  into  those  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Ohio  spreads  out 
into  a narrow  sea  and  meets  the  Mississippi  in  the  same 
form.  Both  appear  to  expand  themselves  into  their  most 
majestic  forms,  as  though  each  was  making  an  effort  to 
claim  the  superiority ; and  when  joined,  they  move  on  with 
united  grandeur.  We  should  expect,  at  the  confluence  of 
these  two  rivers,  to  find  a business-going  village,  but  instead 
of  such  a place,  there  is  only  a whiskey-selling  tavern,  sur- 
rounded by  a few  miserable  huts. 

To-day,  a boy  ten  or  twelve  years  old,  playing  about  the 
machinery  of  the  boat,  was  caught  in  it  by  the  leg,  and  had- 
he  not  been  immediately  seized  and  extricated  by  two  men. 
standing  by,  must  have  been  drawn  wholly  in  and  crushed 
to  pieces.  The  bones  were  not  broken,  but  the  calf  of  the 
leg  was  distressingly  mangled.  There  being  no  surgeon 
on  board  I officiated  in  dressing  his  wounds. 

Passed,  on  the  second,  Point  Girardou,  fifty  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  upon  a 
bluff  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi.  It  has  a fine 
prospect  of  the  river,  and  might,  under  the  hand  of  indus- 
try, become  a desirable  place ; but  the  French  Catholics 
are  not  an  enterprising  people,  and  it  has  the  appearance  of 
decay.  W e moved  but  slowly  against  the  wind  and  current,. 


22 


PRAIRIES  ON  FIRE. 


The  fires  of  the  prairies  coming  over  the  bluffs,  presented 
a very  pleasing  scene  this  evening.  These  bluffs  are  two 
hundred  feet  high,  and  extend  one  or  two  miles  along  the 
river.  At  a considerable  distance  they  appeared  like  an 
illuminated  city,  but  as  we  approached  and  had  a nearer 
view,  the  illusion  was  dissipated.  The  fires  had  advanced 
nearly  over  the  bluffs,  and  curtained  them  with  a moderately 
ascending  blaze,  drawn  up  on  the  bluffs  and  let  down  in 
festoons  in  the  ravines ; and  the  counterpart  reflected  from 
the  smooth  waters  of  the  broad  Mississippi,  added  much  to 
the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  prospect. 

A short  stay  was  made  on  the  third,  at  the  landing  of 
St.  Genevieve.  The  village  is  situated  a mile  back  from 
the  river  on  the  west  side,  and  is  inhabited  almost  entirely 
by  French,  who  are  slow  to  depart  from  the  customs  and 
manners  established  by  their  forefathers,  who  have  long  since 
passed  away.  To  adopt  new  improvements  would  be  a step 
next  to  giving  up  their  catholic  religion  and  turning  infidel . 
It  is  amusing  to  see  the  manner  they  yoke  their  oxen,  and 
to  learn  the  reason  they  assign  for  so  doing.  The  yoke  is 
composed  of  a straight  piece  of  wood,  fastened  to  the  back 
side  of  the  horns  by  straps  of  leather.  They  say,  that  in 
this  way,  they  save  the  whole  power  of  the  animal ; but 
that  the  yoke,  bowed  to  the  neck,  and  drawn  back  to  the 
shoulder,  loses  the  power  of  the  head  and  neck.  Their  rea- 
soning may  satisfy  themselves,  but  would  not  the  thorough- 
going New  England  farmer. 

To-day  Herculaneum  appeared  in  sight,  which  is  situated 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  thirty-five  miles  below  St.  Louis. 
It  is  almost  surrounded  by  high  precipitous  hills,  having 
only  a narrow  space  for  a village.  There  are  several  shot- 
towers,  placed  on  the  brink  of  high  bluffs,  in  which  con- 


GAMBLING. 


23 


siderable  business  is  done . Large  quantities  of  lead,  brought 
from  the  mines,  are  sold  and  carried  to  distant  markets. 

In  travelling  upon  these  waters,  it  is  painful  to  see  how 
few  books  of  any  value  there  are  on  board  the  steam-boats. 
Some  novels  are  found,  but  the  most  of  them  are  of  a licen- 
tious character.  Thousands  of  those  who  navigate  these 
rivers  are  going  to  the  judgment  regardless  of  the  interests 
of  their  souls,  and  most  of  them  are  destitute  of  the  Bible. 
It  gave  great  offence  to  many,  that  we  should  have  reli- 
gious worship  in  the  ladies’  cabin,  as  we  did  by  invitation. 
Complaints  of  obtrusion  were  made — “ Obtruding  religion 
— no  place  for  such  things.”  But  profanity  and  gambling 
are  no  obtrusion ; they  are  always  in  time  and  always  in 
place.  Christians  must  keep  religion  out  of  sight  and  hear- 
ing, but  the  wicked  may  be  as  open  and  obtrusive  as  they 
please.  Gambling  is  practised  on  board  the  steam-boats 
upon  these  waters  to  a very  great  extent,  and  is  a favorite 
amusement  with  those  whose  minds  are  not  sufficiently  cul- 
tivated to  find  satisfaction  in  reading,  or  intelligent  conver- 
sation. The  number  of  black-legs  who  make  gambling 
their  business  is  great,  and  they  are  adepts  in  their  profes- 
sion, as  their  success  depends  very  much  upon  their  skill 
in  deception,  and  in  decoying  the  inexperienced. 

On  the  evening  of  the  fourth,  we  arrived  at  St.  Louis. 
This  is  a flourishing  business  place,  situated  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Mississippi,  two  hundred  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Ohio,  and  twenty  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri, and  in  its  local  position  resembles  Albany,  N.  Y. 
The  ground  ascends  for  about  a half  mile  from  the  river, 
and  then  spreads  out  into  a widely  extended  plain,  partly 
covered  with  shrubbery,  back  of  which  are  open  prairies. 

In  the  parts  of  the  town  built  by  the  French,  the  streets 


24 


ST.  LOUIS. 


are  narrow.  This  may  have  been  done  to  accommodate 
their  propensity  to  be  sociable,  by  enabling  them  to  converse 
from  the  windows  across  the  streets.  The  French  popula- 
tion, with  few  exceptions,  are  Roman  Catholics,  noted  for 
their  indolence  and  dissipation.  . Gambling  is  their  favourite 
amusement ; and  they  have  houses  devoted  to  this  object, 
with  signs  up,  like  those  of  whiskey  venders.  As  gambling 
does  not  increase  wealth,  there  are  but  few  rich,  enterprising 
men  among  the  French  population.  Drunkenness  is  not 
common,  and  the  temperance  cause  is  doing  much  to  remove 
what  exists.  Eastern  enterprise  and  influence  is  gaining 
ground  since  the  town  has  been  brought  under  the  laws  of 
the  United  States ; and  a new  impulse  is  given  to  business. 
This  is  the  central  place  in  the  west  for  the  fur  trade,  which 
is  carried  on  by  the  American  Fur  Company  to  a consider- 
able extent ; and  also  much  business  is  done  in  lead,  which 
is  obtained  at  Galena.  A great  number  of  steam-boats  and 
other  water  craft,  of  various  descriptions  and  destinations,  are 
seen  here  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Adventurers,  of  almost 
every  description  of  character  and  nation,  collect  here,  such 
as  trappers,  hunters,  miners,  and  emigrants,  as  a starting 
point  from  whence  to  go  into  the  still  far  west,  many  of 
whom  seek  a miserable  fortune  among  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. The  local  situation  of  this  town  is  such,  that  it  will 
undoubtedly  continue  to  be  one  of  the  first  places  for  trade 
in  the  great  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  There  are  five 
houses  of  worship,  four  Protestant  and  one  Roman  Catholic  . 
The  Catholic  cathedral  is  built  of  a firm  light  brown  sand- 
stone, and  is  a large  expensive  building.  The  Protestant 
influence  is  increasing,  and  there  are  here  many  active,  de- 
voted Christians,  who  exert  a salutary  influence  upon  the  town 
and  vicinity  around.  The  population  is  fifteen  thousand. 


DR.  WHITMAN. 


25 


Doctor  Marcus  Whitman  had  already  arrived  here,  who 
is  appointed  by  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for 
Foreign  Missions  to  be  my  associate.  He  came  through 
the  central  parts  of  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois,  and  arrived 
a few  days  before  me.  On  the  7th,  we  had  an  interview 
with  Mr.  Fontenelle,  who  takes  charge  of  the  caravan  sent 
out  by  the  American  Fur  Company.  The  caravan  proceeds 
a very  little  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  for  the  purpose 
of  carrying  out  goods  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  supplies  for 
their  men  who  are  engaged  in  hunting  and  trapping ; and 
returns  with  the  furs  which  they  have  taken  during  the 
year.  There  are  about  three  hundred  men  constantly  em- 
ployed in  and  about  the  mountains,  and  more  than  sixty 
who  constitute  the  caravan.  With  a much  less  number  it 
would  be  unsafe  to  perform  this  journey,  as  there  are  hos- 
tile tribes  of  Indians  on  the  way,  viz : the  Arjckaras,  the 
Crows,  and  Blackfeet.  Having  obtained  permission  of  the 
principal  agents  of  the  company,  Mr.  Fontenelle  kindly  of- 
fered to  accommodate  us  with  such  advantages  as  may  be 
afforded  in  his  caravan.  Finding  it  necessary  to  leave  this 
place  to-day  for  Liberty,  which  is  one  of  the  most  western 
towns  in  the  United  States,  we  were  very  busily  employed 
in  making  preparation  for  the  journey,  and  in  calling  upon 
and  bidding  farewell  to  Christian  friends.  A fire  last  night 
destroyed  a very  large  livery  stable,  in  which  we  lost  a 
horse,  saddle,  and  bridle.  The  old  cathedral,  which  was 
used  for  a store-house,  was  also  burnt,  together  with  a very 
large  quantity  of  crockery  which  it  contained. 


26 


ACCIDENT. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Leave  St.  Louis  for  Liberty — passage  up  the  Missouri — snags — a walk 
on  shore — Jefferson  city — River  scenery — Steam-Boat  Siam — Sand 
bars — Lexington — Steam-Boat  disaster—  Liberty — Navahoe  Indians 
— ride  to  Cantonment  Leavenworth — amusing  provincialisms — 
Caravan  commence  their  journey — first  encampment — Iowa  Indi- 
ans— Blacksnake  hills — Nodaway  river — Elk — cross  the  Neshna- 
botana — Rich  soil — rapid  rise  of  the  north  branch  of  Neshnabotana 
—mode  of  living — mounds  of  the  west — crossing  of  the  Missouri — 
Bellevue — Missionaries. 

At  five  o’clock,  P.  M.  we  went  on  board  the  steam-boat 
St.  Charles,  Capt.  Shellcross,  and  ascended  the  river  twenty 
miles  ; anchored  at  the  confluence  of  the  Missouri  and 
Mississippi,  and  lay  by  for  the  night,  as  it  was  dangerous  to 
proceed,  on  account  of  the  many  snags  and  sand  bars  in 
the  Missouri. 

On  the  eighth,  proceeding  up  the  Missouri  by  rather  slow 
progress,  the  first  stop  was  made  at  St.  Charles,  which  is 
twenty  miles  above  the  confluence  of  this  river  with  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  same  distance  north-west  from  St.  Louis. 
This  is  a pleasantly  situated  village,  upon  the  north  side 
of  the  river.  The  country  around  is  interesting,  and  the 
soil  of  superior  quality  . An  enterprising  Christian  popula- 
tion would  make  this  one  of  the  most  desirable  places  in 
the  west.  Soon  after  we  left  the  shore,  a boy  six  years  of 
age,  fell  overboard,  but,  from  the  swiftness  of  the  current, 
and  as  the  boat  was  under  full  way,  there  was  no  opportu- 
nity to  save  him.  He  was  seen  floating  a short  time,  but 
before  the  yawl  could  be  loosed  from  its  fastening,  and 


JEFFERSON  CITY. 


27 


manned,  he  sunk,  and  was  seen  no  more.  His  mother,  a 
widow,  and  her  family,  were  removing  from  Kentucky  to 
Franklin,  Mo-*  The  mother  and  the  children  lamented 
greatly  and  loudly. 

Near  the  middle  of  the  day,  on  the  ninth,  we  struck  a 
snag  or  rock,  so  deep  beneath  the  turbid  water,  that  we 
could  not  determine  which  it  was,  and  it  became  necessary 
to  repair  one  of  the  wheels  of  the  boat,  which  was  much 
injured.  This  afforded  an  opportunity  to  go  on  shore. 
Several  of  my  fellow  voyagers  and  myself  ascended  one  of 
those  high  bluffs,  which  frequently  skirt  this  river.  This 
was  accomplished  by  climbing  on  our  hands  and  feet  up  an 
elevation  of  several  hundred  feet.  Here  we  had  a delight- 
ful view  of  the  surrounding  country,  with  its  intermingled 
prairie  and  wood  land,  its  cultivated  spots,  and  its  hills  and 
dales.  But  in  attempting  to  return,  a new  difficulty  inter- 
posed. I said  we  ascended  on  our  hands  and  feet — could 
we  return  in  the  same  way  ? W e were  compelled,  by  de- 
scending backwards,  to  use  much  caution,  and  letting  our- 
selves down  by  the  grass,  or  sometimes  a shrub  or  tree,  and 
assisting  each  other,  we  came  safely  to  the  shore.  W e also 
visited  a place,  some  distance  below  this,  where  Lewis  and 
Clark  encamped  three  days,  the  state  of  the  river  being  such 
that  they  could  not  ascend  with  their  batteaux.  Many  wild 
turkeys  were  seen  along  upon  the  uninhabited  shores.  On 
the  tenth,  our  boat  discharged  a part  of  her  cargo  at  Port- 
land, a small  newly  built  village.  A fellow  passenger,  a 
merchant  of  this  place,  on  landing,  immediately  put  in  re- 
quisition some  thirty  colored  men,  women,  and  children,  who 
readily,  without  the  aid  of  horses  or  carts,  transferred  his 
merchandise  to  its  destination. 

The  boat  stopped  on  the  11th,  at  Jefferson  city,  the  cap- 


28 


SAND  BARS. 


ital  of  the  state,  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  upon 
a high  eminence,  a little  above  the  Osage  river.  It  has  a 
great  name  for  so  small  a place.  The  state  house  is  of  a 
size  which  would  be  decent  for  a small  academy ; and  the 
governor’s  house  would  do  very  well  for  a common  farmer’s 
house  in  the  country,  but  not  such  as  we  should  expect 
for  a governor  in  Jefferson  City.  But  the  state  of  Missouri 
is  comparatively  new,  and  this  place  may  in  time  support 
its  name. 

Sabbath,  the  12th,  I remained  in  my  state  room,  and  en- 
deavored to  observe  the  day  according  to  the  commandment. 

On  Monday  we  passed  Boonsville  and  Franklin,  small 
villages,  which  have  a country  of  rich  land  around  them, 
and  when  it  is  brought  under  good  cultivation,  they  must 
rise  in  importance.  The  scenery  up  this  river  is  sufficiently 
diversified  to  excite  interest  and  to  charm.  The  trees  along 
the  shores  are  mostly  oak  and  cotton- wood,  with  some  hac- 
berry  and  buckeye,  and  it  is  interesting  to  see  how  easily 
and  how  deep  they  take  root  in  the  free  rich  soil  along  the 
river.  Frequently,  where  the  banks  are  washing  away,  the 
roots  of  the  trees  are  exposed  to  full  view,  and  generally 
there  is  only  a large  central  root  descending  ten  or  twelve 
feet,  with  small  ones  branching  out,  presenting  the  appear- 
ance of  an  inverted  cone.  The  river  makes  nothing  of 
washing  away,  and  forming  islands.  Sand  bars  and  snags 
are  so  common,  that,  becoming  accustomed  to  them,  we 
hardly  think  of  danger. 

We  found  the  steam-boat  Siam,  on  14th,  Captain  L.,  at 
Chariton,  on  board  of  which  the  St.  Charles  put  her  freight 
and  passengers,  and  returned;  both  boats  having  so  far 
discharged  their  freight,  that  one  could  proceed  with  the 
remainder.  When  under  way,  the  boat  run  upon  a sand 


A CONTRAST. 


29 


bar,  which  gave  it  a sudden  whirl  about,  apparently  threat- 
ening a disaster,  but  the  quicksand  of  which  the  bar  was 
composed,  soon  w;ashed  away,  and  we  went  ahead  again. 
Running  aground  in  this  river  is  a very  different  thing  from 
what  it  would  be  in  most  waters ; for  the  bars  are  so  gene- 
rally formed  of  quicksand,  that  in  most  instances  the  current 
around  the  boat  sets  all  clear. 

Soon  after  getting  under  way,  on  the  16th,  we  ran  upon 
a bar,  where  we  were  detained  two  and  a half  hours,  and 
so  frequently  were  we  upon  these  obstructions,  that  we  made 
only  five  miles  before  one  o’clock,  P.  M.  Called  at  Lex- 
ington, a village  pleasantly  situated  one  mile  back  from  the 
landing,  and  surrounded  by  a fine  country.  We  made  only 
about  fifteen  miles  headway  to-day,  which  is  so  slow,  that  it 
would  have  been  far  more  pleasant  traveling  by  land  ; and 
to  have  been  free  from  imprisonment  with  shockingly  pro- 
fane swearers  and  gamblers,  most  of  whom  are  intemperate. 

It  was  necessary  to  spend  the  nineteenth,  another  Sabbath, 
on  board  the  steam-boat.  How  great  a contrast  to  the  sa- 
credness of  the  day  when  it  is  enjoyed  in  the  Christian  fam- 
ily circle ; or  in  the  sanctuary  where  God  is  worshiped  in 
the  great  congregation  ; or  in  the  quiet,  unobtrusive  sabbath 
school,  where  attentive  minds  sit  down  to  study  the  word  of 
God,  that  they  may  practice  its  precepts,  and  where  the 
teachers  are  heard  explaining  and  enforcing  divine  truth 
upon  the  young  and  tender  conscience. 

As  we  passed  along,  I saw  many  children  standing  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  thought  how  benevolent  persons  at 
the  east  had  desired  their  religious  instruction,  and  how 
much  had  been  done  for  the  enterprise  ; but  it  had  failed  to 
reach  these.  I also  reflected  on  the  examples  of  infidelity 

and  vice  around  them,  by  which  they  are  educated  for  de- 

4 


30 


STEAM-BOAT  DISASTER. 


struction,  and  endeavored  to  ask  the  Great  Benefactor  of 
all  to  do  that  for  them  which  it  was  not  in  my  power  to  do. 

I contrasted  in  my  mind  the  difference  between  kindred 
souls  in  sweet  communion  in  the  service  of  God  to-day,  and 
the  unrestrained  wickedness  of  ungodly  men,  which  my  eyes 
and  ears  were  witnessing,  and  said,  when  will  the  kingdoms 
of  this  world  become  the  kingdoms  of  our  Lord  and  his  Christ. 

About  the  middle  of  the  day,  the  captain  and  his  men  ap- 
peared to  be  given  up  to  blind  infatuation.  The  Siam  was 
a new,  well-built  boat,  had  four  boilers,  and  it  was  her  first 
season.  They  appeared  to  regard  no  bounds  in  raising  and 
applying  steam.  Such  was  the  power  under  which  the  boat 
labored,  that  she  more  than  trembled.  For  a long  time  1 
expected  some  disaster,  and  looked  at  the  captain  to  see  if  I 
could  discover  any  apprehensions  of  danger.  There  was 
no  want  of  evidence  that  there  was  a free  use  of  ardent 
spirits.  Soon  the  disaster  came,  though  less  extensive  than 
I had  feared  ; the  main  shaft,  which  was  large  and  made  of 
iron,  broke,  and  farther  progress  was  impossible. 

Monday,  20th.  The  day  was  spent  in  endeavoring  to  find 
some  remedy  for  the  disaster,  but  all  to  no  purpose.  It 
only  remained  to  discharge  her  cargo  upon  the  wilderness 
shore,  let  her  passengers  take  care  of  themselves,  and  return 
with  one  wheel,  like  a crippled  winged  fowl.  Two  miles 
above  us  lay  the  steam-boat  Nelson,  upon  a sand  bar  high 
and  dry.  She  ran  aground  upon  the  Sabbath,  and  being  left 
by  a freshet  in  the  river,  is  waiting  for  another,  to  be  libera- 
ted. Our  captain  remarked  at  dinner  to-day,  that  most  of 
the  accidents  which  happen  to  steam-boats  take  place  on  the 
Sabbath  ; and  that  he  did  not  believe  it  would  be  long  before 
they  would  not  run  on  that  day.  We  engaged  a man  to  take 
us  in  a wagon  to  Liberty,  and  towards  evening  went  out  into 


LIBERTY. 


31 

a small  neighborhood  of  Mormons,  where  we  lodged.  They 
had  fled  from  Jackson  county,  which  they  call  their  promised 
land,  and  to  which  they  say  they  shall  return.  They  are  a 
poor  deluded  people,  and  when  they  speak  of  their  persecu- 
tions, they  seem  not  to  possess  the  spirit  our  Saviour,  who-, 
when  he  was  reviled,  reviled  not  again,  and  when  he  suffered5, 
threatened  not. 

We  rode  on  the  21st,  twelve  miles  to  Liberty,  through  a 
very  pleasant  and  fertile  country,  thinly  inhabited,  well 
supplied  with  woods,  and  sufficiently  undulating  and  hilly  to 
render  it  healthy.  It  was  at  that  opening  season  of  the  year, 
when  nature,  arousing  itself  from  the  sleep  of  winter,  appears 
with  renovated  beauty.  Not  only  man,  but  flowers,  and 
trees,  and  birds,  seemed  to  enjoy  the  season  and  the  scene. 
I was  much  charmed  with  the  wood  duck,  (A.  Sponsa)  which 
here  were  numerous  ; the  variety  of  its  colors  was  adapted 
to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  which  surrounded  us.  And 
the  sprightly  deer  did  not  seem  to  accelerate  its  movements 
so  much  from  fear,  as  from  love  of  flight. 

Liberty  is  a small  village,  situated  three  miles  north  of 
the  river,  and  is  the  county  town  of  Clay.  It  has  a court- 
house of  brick — several  stores,  which  do  considerable  busi- 
ness, a rope- walk,  and  a number  of  decent  dwelling  houses. 

Continued  in  this  place  about  three  weeks,  waiting  for  the 
caravan  to  get  in  readiness.  At  this  place  it  forms — men, 
horses  and  mules,  and  wagons,  are  collected  and  put  in  read- 
iness ; and  from  this  place  commences  the  long  journey  for 
the  west.  While  we  remained  here,  we  had  an  opportunity 
to  collect  much  information  from  those  who  have  been  to 
and  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  regard  to  the  country, 
mode  of  traveling,  and  concerning  the  various  Indian  tribes 
on  the  way.  Captain  Ford,  and  Lieutenant  Stein  from  Fort 


32 


CANTONMENT  LEAVENWORTH. 


Leavenworth,  were  also  here.  They  are  both  professors  of 
religion,  and  appear  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the  Indian 
country.  Lieut.  S.  has  been  much  among  the  Indians,  was 
out  with  the  dragoons  the  last  year — and  was  among  the  Paw- 
nee Piets.  He  gives  a very  favorable  account  of  them,  and 
thinks  the  way  is  open  to  establish  a mission  among  them 
with  fair  prospects  of  success.  He  also  thinks  the  way  is 
prepared,  or  is  preparing,  for  a mission  among  the  Caman- 
ehes,  who  heretofore  have  been  hostile,  but  now  wish  for 
peace  and  trade  with  the  Americans.  I saw  also  a Mr. 
Vaughn  of  this  place,  a Baptist  professor,  who  has  made  two 
trips  to  Santa  Fe,  and  has  resided  two  years  in  that  place. 
He  gives  a very  interesting  description  of  the  Navahoes,  a 
tribe  who  number  about  two  thousand  warriors.  Their 
country  lies  between  the  Rio  Del  Norte  and  the  eastern 
branches  of  Rio  Colorado.  They  carry  on  agriculture  to 
a very  considerable  extent ; have  large  herds  of  cattle  and 
horses,  and  flocks  of  sheep  ; and  have  many  domestic  man- 
ufactures and  houses  of  good:  construction.  They  are 
friendly  to  the  Americans,  but  not  to  the  Spaniards.  Mr. 
V.  thinks  they  would  readily  receive  Protestant  missiona- 
ries, and  would  prefer  them  to  Roman  Catholics,  because  of 
their  hostility  to  the  Spaniards.  He  also  speaks  well  of  the 
Paches,  or  Apaches,  a small  tribe  on  the  Del  Norte  towards 
old  Mexico.  These  have  been  at  war  three  years  with  the 
Spaniards. 

Saturday,  May  9th,  rode  twenty-six  miles  to  Cantonment 
Leavenworth,  which  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mis- 
souri river,  nearly  twenty  miles  out  of  the  United  States. 
The  way  is  through  a fertile  section  of  country,  part  of  the 
distance  is  an  open  prairie,  other  parts  are  handsomely  wood- 
ed, and  all  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  I had  an  introduc- 


SINGULAR  VIEWS. 


33 


tion  to  several  of  the  officers,  and  made  my  home  at  Lieut. 
S’s,  an  agreeable  and  religious  family. 

I preached  three  times  on  the  Sabbath,  and  most  of  the 
people  of  the  garrison  assembled,  and  gave  good  attention. 
There  is  a very  considerable  number  of  professors  of  reli- 
gion attached  to  this  station,  but  they  have  no  chaplain 
to  teach  and  lead  them  in  their  devotions,  which  is  a defi- 
ciency in  our  military  establishments.  Colonel  Dodge  and 
some  of  the  other  officers  appear  disposed  to  maintain  good 
order,  and  I should  think  they  exert  a salutary  influence. 
I had  an  opportunity,  before  I returned  to  Liberty,  to  take 
a view  of  the  fort  and  the  adjacent  country.  The  buildings 
of  the  fort  are  situated  within  an  enclosure  around  a large, 
beautiful  square,  which  is  covered  with  grass,  and  adorned 
with  shade  trees.  The  whole  is  on  an  elevation  of  a few 
hundred  feet,  and  has  an  interesting  prospect  of  the  majestic 
river  flowing  on  silently  below..  The  fertile  country  around 
presents  a wide  and  fine  prospect,  and  when  settled  by  an 
industrious  population,  will  equal  the  most  favored  parts  of 
the  earth. 

Liberty,  and  the  surrounding  country,  is  inhabited  by 
people  of  considerable  enterprise,  and  when  it  shall  be 
brought  under  Christian  influence,  there  will  be  but  few 
places  more  inviting.  There  is  but  one  Presbyterian  min- 
ister in  this  county,  a man  of  talents  and  very  respectable 
attainments,  who  is  exerting  a good  influence.  The  Bap- 
tists in  this  section  of  country  are  unlike  those  of  the  east.. 
They  are  opposed  to  the  benevolent  operations  of  the  day., 
Elder  H.  the  pastor  of  the  church  in  this  place,  invited  Rev. 
Mr.  Merril,  a Baptist  missionary,  located  among  the  Otoe 
Indians  of  the  Platte,  and  myself,  to  preach  for  him  the 

■first  Sabbath  after  our  arrival.  His  people  objected,  ap- 

4* 


34 


PROVINCIALISMS. 


prehensive  that  Mr.  Merril  would  say  something  about  the 
cause  of  temperance,  or  missionary  efforts,  and  Elder  H. 
had  to  withdraw  his  invitation.  They  profess  to  act  from 
Christian  principles  in  refusing  to  give  their  minister  any 
thing  for  support,  lest  they  should  make  him  a hireling. 

It  is  amusing  to  observe  the  provincialisms  which  are 
common  in  this  part  of  the  country.  If  a person  intends  to 
commence  a journey  some  time  in  the  month,  for  instance, 
in  May  ; he  says,  “ I am  going  in  all  the  month  of  May.” 
For  a large  assembly  of  people,  they  say,  “ a smart  sprinkle 
of  people.”  The  word  “ balance,”  comes  into  almost  every 
transaction — “ will  you  not  have  a dessert  for  the  balance 
of  your  dinner?” — “to  make  out  the  balance  of  his  night’s 
rest,  he  slept  until  eight  in  the  morning.”  If  your  baggage 
is  to  be  carried,  it  will  be  asked,  “ shall  I tote  your  plunder 
This  use  of  the  word  plunder  is  said  to  have  originated  in 
the  early  predatory  habits  of  the  borderers.  They  also 
speak  of  a “ mighty  pleasant  day” — ua  mighty  beautiful 
flower” — “ mighty  weak .”  A gentleman,  with  whom  I form- 
ed some  acquaintance,  invited  me,  when  I should  make  “ an 
outing”  for  exercise,  to  call  at  his  house  ; for  his  family 
would  be  “ mighty  glad”  to  see  me. 

During  our  continuance  at  this  place,  we  were  hospitably 
entertained  at  the  house  of  J.  B.  Esq.,  one  of  the  judges  of 
the  county  court.  We  were  under  many  obligations  to  him 
and  Mrs.  B.  not  only  for  their  liberality,  but  also  for  the 
privilege  of  retirement  in  so  kind  and  intelligent  a family. 
Nor  would  we  be  unmindful  of  the  hospitality  shown  us  by 
Rev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Y. 

May  15th,  all  things  being  in  readiness,  we  commenced 
our  journey  for  Council  Bluffs,  directing  our  course  north- 
west. We  did  not  get  to-day  beyond  the  boundaries  of  the 


INDIAN  TRIBES. 


35 


United  States,  and  for  the  last  time,  for  a long  period  to 
come,  I lodged  in  the  house  of  a civilized  family. 

The  next  day,  we  traveled  twenty  miles,  which  brought 
us  beyond  the  limits  of  civilization,  and  into  the  Indian  coun- 
try, and  encamped  on  a prairie  surrounded  with  wood.  The 
sensations  excited  by  the  circumstances  of  our  situation 
were  peculiar,  and  such  as  I had  not  before  felt ; in  a wil- 
derness, inhabited  by  unseen  savages  and  wild  beasts,  en- 
gaged in  setting  our  tent,  preparing  supper  with  only  a few 
articles  of  furniture,  the  ground  for  our  chairs,  table,  and 
bed.  But  all  was  conducted  in  good  style  ; for  I would  not 
dispense  with  attention  to  decencies,  because  beyond  the 
boundaries  of  civilization  ; and  having  adjusted  every  thing 
in  good  order,  and  offered  up  our  evening  devotions,  we  re- 
tired ro  rest.  But  how  to  adjust  all  the  anxieties  and  feel- 
ings of  the  mind,  so  as- to  obtain  the  desired  repose,  was  a 
more  difficult  task. 

On  the  17th,  I crossed  over  the  east,  or  little  Platte,  which 
is  a very  considerable  river,  and  spent  the  Sabbath  with  Mr. 
Gilmore,  a Methodist  professor,  and  governmental  black- 
smith for  the  Iowa  Indians.  Saw  many  Indians  of  the  Iowa, 
Sioux,  and  Fox  tribes.  Among  these  a Fox  Indian  and  his 
wife  were  noble-looking  persons,  having  their  faces  painted 
with  unmixed  vermilion  ; the  former  entirely,  and  the  latter 
in  stripes.  They  felt  too  important  to  be  seen  noticing  what 
was  transpiring  around,  and  seemed  to  think  themselves 
the  only  objects  worthy  of  notice. 

Here  is  an  excellent,  fertile  tract  of  country,  and  nothing 
discouraging  for  a missionary  station,  except  the  contami- 
nating influence  of  vicious  white  men.  The  natives  wish 
to  cultivate  their  land,  probably  more  from  necessity  than 
on  any  other  account ; for  their  game  is  mostly  gone.  One 


36 


BLACKSNAKE  HILLS. 


of  them'  came  to  Mr.  Gilmore  to  get  some  ploughs,  and  re- 
marked, “ it  is  hard  work  to  dig  up  our  ground  for  corn  by 
hand.”  The  Sioux  here  are  only  a small  band,  who  would 
not  join  Black  Hawk  in  his  war  against  the  United  States, 
and  who  are  now  afraid  to  return  to  their  own  country. 
Their  condition  is  becoming  more  and  more  wretched ; for 
while  they  have  not  the  knowledge,  the  means,  nor  much 
of  the  inclination  necessary  to  cultivate  their  lands  advan- 
tageously, they  have  an  insatiable  thirst  for  ardent  spirits ; 
and  there  are  too-  many  unprincipled  men  on  our  frontiers; 
wrho,  for  the  sake  of  gain,  will  supply  them  with  the  means 
of  drunkenness  and  destruction. 

Leaving  Mr.  G.,  gratefully  remembering  his  hospitality, 
we  rode  on  Monday,  18th,  twelve  miles  to  Blacksnake  Hills, 
At  this  place  Mr.  Rubedoux  has  a trading  post,  and  an  un- 
commonly fine  farming  establishment  on  the  Missouri  river. 
His  buildings  are  on  a small  elevation  of  land,  having  a 
delightful  prospect  in  front  of  more  than  a thousand  acres 
of  open  bottom  land,  lying  along  down  the  river  ; and  hills 
on  the  north  and  east  partially  covered  with  woods.  What 
has  nature  not  wrought  without  the  labor  of  man  ? The 
herds  of  cattle,  and  other  domestic  animals,  have  as  wide 
a range  as  they  choose,  and  fences  are  necessary  only  to 
secure  fields  for  cultivation. 

The  Indians  here  have  a new  mode  of  disposing  of  their 
dead.  A scaffold  is  raised  about  eight  feet  high,  upon  wrhich 
the  dead  are  placed  in  rudely  constructed  coffins  overspread 
wfith  skins. 

Having  obtained  a supply  of  milk,  I encamped  out,  pre- 
ferring the  field  to  the  house,  w'here  I might  have  been  sub- 
jected to  many  kinds  of  annoyances. 

For  several  days  nothing  special  occurred.  On  the  22dr 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  A RAFT. 


37 


we  crossed  the  Nodaway  river  with  a raft ; the  construction 
of  which,  and  transporting  our  baggage,  occupied  most  of 
the  day.  To  construct  a raft,  a number  of  dry  logs  are 
collected,  and  secured  together,  side  by  side,  with  barks 
stripped  from  elm  trees ; some  few  men  swim  across  the 
river,  taking  with  them  one  end  of  a rope,  while  the  other 
end  is  fastened  to  the  raft ; it  is  then  shoved  off,  the  men 
upon  the  other  side  of  the  river  pulling  upon  the  rope. 
The  raft  is  generally  drifted  considerably  down  stream,  be- 
fore it  is  brought  to  land  upon  the  opposite  shore.  In  this 
manner  they  crossed  and  re-crossed,  until  the  baggage  was 
carried  over.  Then  follows  the  swimming  over  the  horses, 
which  is  attended  with  noise  enough — hallooing  of  men, 
snorting  of  the  horses,  and  throwing  sticks  and  stones  to 
prevent  them,  after  having  gone  part  the  way  over,  from 
returning. 

We  saw  many  elk,  but  they  were  too  wary  to  be  ap- 
proached, and  too  fleet  to  be  chased,  and  our  hunters  were 
not  sufficiently  successful  to  obtain  any.  They  are  very 
large,  and  when  their  horns  are  on,  have  a very  majestic 
appearance.  We  frequently  found  their  horns  on  the 
prairie,  some  of  which  were  four  feet  long,  with  large  wide- 
spreading  branches. 

Sabbath,  the  twenty-fourth,  passing  over  a brook  near 
which  we  had  encamped  the  evening  before,  my  companion 
and  myself  remained  for  the  day,  while  the  caravan  went 
on.  The  movements  of  the  caravan  are  so  slow,  that  we 
felt  confident  we  could  overtake  them  without  any  difficulty, 
and  as  there  was  no  danger  from  the  hostile  Indians,  we 
considered  it  our  duty  to  rest  on  this  holy  day.  The  day 
was  very  warm  for  May,  the  thermometer  standing,  at  two 
in  the  afternoon,  at  88°. 


38 


NEW  DIFFICULTIES. 


The  next  day  we  overtook  the  caravan  before  night,  and 
crossed  the  south  branch  of  the  Neshnabotana  on  a raft. 
Some  of  the  men  of  the  caravan,  if  not  all,  were  much  dis- 
pleased, because  we  did  not  travel  with  them  on  the  Sabbath. 
To  express  their  displeasure,  they  cut  some  of  the  barks, 
with  which  the  raft  they  had  made  was  bound  together,  and 
set  it  adrift.  Providentially  it  did  not  drift  far  before  it 
lodged  against  a tree,  and,  without  much  loss  of  time,  we 
repaired  it  and  passed  over. 

On  the  twenty-sixth,  came  to  the  main  branch  of  the 
Neshnabotana,  and  commenced  making  a raft,  the  finishing 
of  which  and  crossing  took  most  of  the  following  day.  The 
soil  of  this  part  of  the  country  is  rich,  and  the  grass  for  our 
horses  excellent ; but  there  are  none  here  to  till  the  ground, 
nor  to  gather  in  the  ten  thousand  tons  of  hay,  which  might 
be  made  from  the  spontaneous  growth.  This  part  of  the 
country  does  not  yet  answer  the  end  for  which  it  was  crea- 
ted. The  time  will  come,  when  a dense  population  will 
cover  this  country,  who  will  render  the  sacrifice  of  prayer 
and  praise  to  our  God. 

On  the  28th,  w^e  rode  eleven  miles,  and  came  to  the  north 
branch  of  the  above  mentioned  river.  After  we  had  con- 
structed a raft,  we  had  a very  difficult  time  of  crossing. 
The  water  was  continually  and  rapidly  rising,  and  before 
we  finished  crossing,  the  banks  were  overflowed  to  conside- 
rable depth ; and  the  alluvial  soil  was  rendered  too  soft  to 
sustain  our  horses,  and  they  sunk  so  deep  that  we  could  not 
proceed.  After  searching  for  a long  time,  a place  was 
found  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  up  our  animals  when  un- 
loaded. We  had  to  carry  our  baggage  upon  our  shoulders 
about  fifteen  rods,  part  of  the  way  in  water  mid  deep,  going 
forward  and  returning  until  all  was  carried  to  better 


MOUNDS  OF  THE  WEST. 


39 


ground ; and  then  we  had  to  ride  a mile  to  the  dry  prairie 
in  water  one  and  two  feet  deep.  We  rejoiced  to  find  our- 
selves  once  more  on  firm  footing.  Encamped  by  a stream 
of  clear  water,  which  is  rare  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and 
especially  at  this  season  of  the  year.  The  waters  of  all  this 
portion  of  country,  especially  of  the  Missouri  river  and  its 
large  tributaries,  are  very  turbid,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the 
soil  over  which  they  pass.  A pail  full  of  water,  standing 
half  an  hour  at  the  seasons  of  freshets,  will  deposit  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  of  sediment ; and  yet  the  water,  when 
settled,  appeal’s  to  be  of  good  quality. 

Our  mode  of  living,  from  day  to  day,  had  already  neces- 
sarily become  uniform.  Dry  bread  and  bacon  constituted 
our  breakfast,  dinner,  and  supper.  The  bacon  we  cooked, 
when  we  could  obtain  wood  for  fire ; but  when  “ out  of 
sight  of  land,”  that  is,  when  nothing  but  green  grass  could 
be  seen,  we  eat  our  bacon  without  cooking.  A very  few  of 
the  simplest  articles  of  furniture  were  sufficient  for  our  cul- 
inary purposes.  The  real  wants  of  life  are  few,  artificial 
ones  are  numerous. 

30th.  Drew  near  to  Council  Bluffs,  and  passed  down 
from  the  high  rolling  prairie,  through  a vale  two  or  three 
miles  long,  and  a half  mile  wide,  into  the  rich  alluvial,  and 
widely  extended  valley  of  the  Missouri,  through  a section  of 
country  of  uncommonly  interesting  scenery.  The  mounds, 
which  some  have  called  the  work  of  unknown  generations 
of  men,  were  scattered  here  in  all  varieties  of  forms  and 
magnitudes ; and  thousands  in  number,  and  perhaps  I may 
say  ten  thousands.  Some  of  these  mounds  were  conical, 
some  eliptical,  some  square,  and  others  parallelograms. 
One  group  of  these  attracted  my  attention  more  than  any 
others.  They  were  twelve  in  number,  of  conical  form,  with 


40 


MOUNDS  OF  THE  WEST. 


their  bases  joined,  and  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high.  They 
formed  about  two-thirds  of  a circle,  with  an  area  of  two 
hundred  feet  in  diameter.  If  these  were  isolated,  who  would 
not  say  they  are  artificial  ? But  when  they  are  only  a 
group  of  ten  thousand  others,  which  have  as  much  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  artificial,  who  will  presume  to  say  they 
are  the  work  of  man  ? But  if  they  are  the  work  of  art, 
and  attest  the  number,  the  genius,  and  perseverance  of  de- 
parted nations,  whose  works  have  survived  the  lapse  of  ages, 
their  history  is  shrouded  in  darkness.  “ The  mind  seeks  in 
vain  for  some  clue  to  assist  it  in  unraveling  the  mystery. 
Was  their  industry  stimulated  by  the  desire  to  protect  them- 
selves against  inroads  of  invaders,  or  were  they  them- 
selves the  aggressors  V9  “ Are  they  the  monuments  of  wes- 
tern Pharaohs,  and  do  they  conceal  treasures  which  may 
yet  be  brought  to  light  ?”  There  is  nothing  plainer  than 
that  they  were  never  designed  as  works  of  defense.  But 
some,  while  they  admit  they  were  not  designed  for  offensive 
or  defensive  operations  of  belligerent  powers,  supposed  they 
were  erected  as  “ mausoleums,  and  that  the  difference  in 
their  size  was  intended  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  difference 
in  the  relative  importance  of  those  whose  bones  they  cover.” 
If  this  theory  is  true,  the  La  Trappe  on  the  Mississippi, 
which  I had  an  opportunity  of  examining  on  my  northern 
tour,  which  is  as  much  as  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high, 
and  covering  about  six  acres,  must  inclose  mighty  bones,  or 
the  bones  of  a mighty  monarch.  I would  not  be  understood 
to  dissent  from  the  belief,  that  there  are  artificial  mounds  in 
the  great  valley  of  the  west,  but  I believe  there  is  a great 
mistake  upon  this  subject.  It  is  said,  by  those  who  advocate 
the  belief,  that  they  are  the  work  of  ancient  nations,  that 
they  present  plain  evidence  of  this,  from  the  fact  that  they 


PAWNEE  MISSION. 


41 


contain  human  bones,  articles  of  pottery,  and  the  like,  which 
evince  that  they  were  constructed  for  burying  places  of  the 
dead.  That  some  of  them  have  been  used  for  burying 
places  is  undoubtedly  true  ; but  may  it  not  be  questionable 
whether  they  were  constructed,  or  only  selected  for  burying 
places.  Besides,  if  these  mounds  were  works  of  human  art, 
I confess  myself  wholly  at  a loss  to  discover  the  traces  of 
design , which  are  always  characteristic  of  every  human  ef- 
fort. The  absence  of  every  other  vestige  of  a race  extinct, 
such  as  monuments,  walls,  cities,  or  ruins  of  any  descrip- 
tion, lead  us  to  believe,  that  such  a people  must  have  lived 
only  to  burrow  in  the  earth,  as  these  mounds  alone  are  all 
the  traces  they  have  left  of  their  existence.  Depopulate  any 
portion  of  the  world,  with  which  we  are  acquainted,  and, 
save  the  savages  who  roam  the  desert  or  the  prairie,  many 
centuries  must  elapse,  before  their  monuments  would  en- 
tirely cease  to  exist.  No  one,  who  has  ever  seen  the  im- 
mense number  of  mounds  scattered  through  the  valley  of  the 
Mississippi,  will  ever  be  so  credulous  as  to  believe,  that  a 
five  hundredth  part  of  them  are  the  work  of  man. 

We  crossed  the  Maragine  river,  which,  though  very  deep, 
was  not  so  wide  but  that  we  constructed  a bridge  over  i U 
Proceeding  many  miles  through  the  rich  bottom  lands  of  the 
Missouri,  we  crossed  this  noble  river  over  against  Bellevue, 
in  a large  canoe,  and  swam  our  horses  and  mules  across, 
which,  on  account  of  the  width  of  the  river  and  the  strength 
of  the  current,  required  much  effort.  I went  to  the 
agency  house,  where  I was  happy  to  find  brethren  Dun- 
bar and  Allis,  missionaries  to  the  Pawnees,  under  the 
direction  of  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  For- 
eign Missions.  There  is  a Baptist  mission  here,  composed 

of  Rev.  Moses  Merrill  and  wife,  Miss  Brown,  and  a Chris- 

5 


42 


PAWNEE  MISSION. 


tian  Indian  woman,  a descendant  of  Rev.  D.  Brainard’s  In- 
dians. They  are  appointed  by  the  Baptist  Board  to  labor 
among  the  Otoe  Indians,  about  twenty-five  miles  from  this 
place,  on  the  river  Platte.  These  Indians  are  away  from 
their  intended  residence  about  half  the  time,  on  hunting 
excursions. 

A little  more  than  a half  mile  below  the  agency,  the 
American  Fur  Company  have  a fort,  and,  in  connexion, 
they  have  a farming  establishment  and  large  numbers  of 
cattle  and  horses,  and  a horse  power  mill  for  grinding  corn. 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY.. 


43 


CHAPTER  III. 

Continuance  at  Council  Bluffs — interesting  scenery — Indian  curiosity 
— information  obtained  about  several  Indian  tribes — Spasmodic 
Cholera — an  Indian  chief  killed — leave  Bellevue  for  the  Black  Hills 
— storm  of  rain — heavy  thunder  storm— Elkhorn  river,  the  country 
around — Loups  fork  of  the  Platte — manner  of  encamping — Big  Ax, 
Pawnee  chief— Indian  feasting — fourth  of  July — Messrs.  Dunbar 
and  Allis — thunder  storm — Indian  Ornaments — effects  of  drunken- 
ness— bite  of  a rattle-snake — buffalo  seen — prairie  horse-fly — forks 
of  the  Platte — want  of  wood — swiftness  of  antelopes — climate — thou- 
sands of  buffalo — badgers — prairie  dog— interesting  bluffs — old  cas- 
tle— the  chimney,  or  beacon — an  alarm — Ogallallah  Indians,  their 
lodges — Black  Hills. 

Continued  in  this  place  three  weeks,  waiting  the  move- 
ments of  the  caravan,  who.  made  slaw  progress  in  preparing 
their  packages  for  the  mountains.  During  our  continuance 
here,  I frequently  walked  over  the  hills  bordering  upon  the 
west  of  the  valley  of  the  Missouri,  to  enjoy  the  pure  air  of 
the  rolling  prairies,  and  to  view  the  magnificent  prospects 
unfolded  in  the  vale  below.  From  the  summit  of  those  pro- 
minences, the  valley  of  the  Missouri  may  be  traced  until 
lost  in  its  far  winding  course  among  the  bluffs.  Three  miles 
below,  is  seen  the  Papillon,  a considerable  stream  from  the 
north-west,  winding  its  way  round  to  the  east,  and  uniting 
with  the  Missouri,  six  miles  above  the  confluence  of  the 
Platte  coming  from  the  west.  These  flow  through  a rich 
alluvial  plain,  opening  to  the  south  and  south-west  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach.  Upon  these  meadows  are  seen  feed- 
ing some  few  hundreds  of  horses  and  mules,  and  a herd  of 


44 


MISSIONARY  PROSPECTS. 


cattle  ; and  some  fields,  of  corn  which  diversify  the  scenery. 
The  north  is  covered  with  woods,  which  are  not  less  valua- 
ble than  the  rich  vales.  But  few  places  can  present  a pros- 
pect more  interesting,  and  when  a civilized  population  shall 
add  the  fruits  of  their  industry,  but  few  can  be  more  desi- 
rable. 

In  respect  to  efforts  for  the  religious  instruction  and  con- 
version of  the  Indians,  I am  convinced,  from  all  I can  learn 
of  their  native  character,  that  the  first  impressions  which 
the  missionary  makes  upon  them,  are  altogether  important 
in  their  bearings  on  successful  labors  afterwards.  In  things 
about  which  they  are  conversant,  they  are  men  ; but  about 
other  things,  they  are  children  ; and  like  children,  the  an- 
nouncement of  a new  subject  awakens  their  attention,  their 
curiosity,  and  their  energies  ; and  it  has  been  remarked  by 
a Methodist  missionary  who  has  labored  among  the  Indians, 
that  many  seemed  to  embrace  the  gospel  on  its  first  being 
offered,  and  that  those  among  the  adults,  who  failed  to  do  so, 
were  rarely  converted.  If,  from  any  motives,  or  from  any 
cause,  instruction  is  delayed;  and  their  expectations  are  dis- 
appointed, they  relapse  into  their  native  apathy,  from  which 
it  is  difficult  to  arouse  them. 

We  had  an  opportunity,  whilst  we  continued  in  this  place, 
to  collect  much  information  about  the  Indians  in  the  Sioux 
country,  from  Maj.  P.  the  agent  appointed  by  government 
to  the  Yanktons,  a band  of  the  Sioux.  He  appeal's  to  be 
not  only  intelligent  and  candid,  but  also  well  disposed  to- 
wards Indian  improvement.  The  following  is  the  substance 
of  the  information  which  he  gave  us  in  regard  to  several 
tribes  to  the  north  and  north-west  of  this  place  : that  the 
Omahaws  are  situated  upon  the  Missouri,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  above  this  place,  and  number  about  two 


SIOUX  INDIANS. 


45 


thousand.  They  have  been  well  disposed  towards  the 
whites,  but,  owing  to  their  intercourse  with  traders  and 
trappers,  and  abuses  which  they  have  received  from  them, 
they  are  becoming  more  vicious  in  their  habits,  and  less 
friendly.  Yet,  kind  treatment  would  conciliate  their  favor, 
so  that  there  would  be  no  reason  to  fear  but  that  a mission 
might  be  established  among  them  with  fair  prospects  of  suc- 
cess. 

The  Yanktons  are  an  interesting  band  of  the  Sioux,  of 
about  two  thousand  people.  Their  village  is  to  be  located  on 
the  Vermilion  river,  where  it  unites  with  the  Missouri  from 
the  north.  Maj.  P.  thinks  this  will  be  a very  eligible  place 
for  a missionary  station,  and  says  he  will  do  all  in  his  power 
to  aid  such  an  enterprise. 

The  Ponca  Indians,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Missouri,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  L’eau  qui  coure , number  six  or  eight 
hundred,  and  speak  the  same  language  as  the  Omahaws. 

The  region  of  country,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux 
river  and  that  on  the  south  of  the  L’ectu  qui  coure , as  high  as 
the  country  of  the  Mandan  Indians,  may  be  classed  under  the 
general  head  of  the  Sioux  country  ; and  is  inhabited  by  the 
following  bands  of  Sioux,  viz  : the  Yanktons,  already  men- 
tioned, Santas,  Yanktonas,  Tetons,  Ogallallahs,  Siones,  and 
the  Hankpapes,  who  course  east  and  west  from  the  Missis- 
sippi to  the  Black  Hills,  and  sometimes  as  far  south  as  the 
river  Platte.  The  real  number  of  the  several  bands  cannot 
be  correctly  ascertained,  but  probably  it  is  from  forty  to  sixty 
thousand.  Their  habits  are  wandering,  and  they  rely  ex- 
clusively upon  the  chase  for  subsistence.  Their  principal 
trade  is  in  buffalo  robes.  The  traders  have  for  many  years 
maintained  a friendly  intercourse  with  them,  and  generally 

speaking,  they  are  much  attached  to  white  men. 

5* 


46 


THE  SPASMODIC  CHOLERA. 


The  Mandans  are  a much  more  stationary  people  than 
almost  any  other  tribe  in  this  whole  region  of  country,  and 
the  opportunity  to  establish  missionaries  among  them  is 
good ; but  on  account  of  repeated  ill  treatment,  which  they 
have  experienced,  they  are  beginning  to  grow  suspicious, 
and  are  losing  confidence  in  white  men. 

Our  stay  in  this  place  had  been  protracted  much  beyond 
our  expectations.  Two  weeks  after  our  arrival  the  spas- 
modic cholera  broke  out  with  a great  degree  of  malignity. 
The  weather  was  very  warm,  and  there  were  showers  from 
day  to  day.  The  intemperate  habits  of  the  men,  and  their 
manner  of  living,  probably  had  a tendency  to  induce  the 
disease.  Three  of  the  company  died ; and  several  others 
barely  survived,  through  the  blessing  of  God  upon  the  as- 
siduous attentions  ofDoct.  Whitman,  my  associate,  and  the 
free  use  of  powerful  medicines.  And,  had  it  not  been  for 
his  successful  practice,  the  men  would  have  dispersed,  and 
the  caravan  would  have  failed  of  going  to  the  place  of  ren- 
dezvous. This  was  plainly  seen  and  frankly  acknowledged. 
This  alarming  disease  was  the  means  of  effecting  our  de- 
parture sooner  that  it  otherwise  would  have  taken  places 
It  was  necessary  to  hasten  to  the  higher  prairies,  as  the 
only  prospect  of  escaping  the  farther  ravages  of  the  dis- 
ease.  Not  a single  new  case  occurred  after  we  recom- 
menced our  journey.  This  afflictive  scourge,  so  far  as  it 
respected  Dr.  W.  and  myself,  was  providential.  The  as- 
sistance we  rendered  the  sick,  and  the  medical  skill  of  the 
Doctor,  converted  those  into  permanent  friends,  who  had  so 
disliked  the  restraints  which  our  presence  imposed  upon 
them,  that,  as  they  afterwards  confessed,  they  had  plotted 
our  death,  and  intended  on  the  first  convenient  occasion  to 
put  their  purpose  in  execution. 


MURDER  OF  A CHIEF. 


47 


Whilst  at  Bellevue,  a man  by  the  name  of  Garrio,  a half- 
blood  Indian  chief  of  the  Arickara  nation,  was  shot  under 
very  aggravated  circumstances.  Garrio  and  his  family 
were  residing  in  a log  cabin  on  the  Papillon  river.  Six  or 
seven  men,  half  intoxicated,  went  down  to  his  house  in  the 
night,  called  him  up,  took  him  away  a half  mile,  and  shot 
him  with  six  balls*  scalped  him,  and  left  him  unburied. 
The  reason  they  assigned  for  doing  so,  was,  that  he  was  a 
bad  man,  and  had  killed  white  men.  If  he  was  guilty,  who 
authorized  them  to  take  his  life  ? The  Arickara  nation  will 
remember  this,  and  probably  take  revenge  on  some  inno- 
cent persons.  This,  I apprehend,  is  the  way  Indian  wars  are 
often  produced.  While  we  charge  the  Indians  with  invete- 
rate ferociousness  and  inhuman  brutality,  we  forget  the  too 
numerous  wrongs  and  outrages  committed  upon  them,  which 
incite  them  to  revenge.  They  cannot  apprehend  and  do 
justice  to  such  offenders.  Or  if  they  could,  would  it  not  be 
published  as  a- gross  Indian  murder  and  aggression,  and  a 
war  of  extermination  be  commenced  against  them.  When 
Indian  offences  are  proclaimed,  we  hear  only  one  side  of  the 
story,  and  the  other  will  not  be  heard  until  the  last  great  day. 

Monday,  June  22d;  After  so  long  delay,  we  re-com- 
menced our  journey  for  the  a far  west.”  The  Black  Hills 
are  to  be  our  next  stopping  place.  The  caravan  started 
yesterday.  We  passed  over  a rich  extensive  prairie,  but 
so  poorly  watered,  that  we  did  not  find  a stream  through 
the  whole  day.  In  the  afternoon  we  had  to  ride  in  a heavy, 
cold  rain,  in  consequence- of  which  I became  much  chilled. 
Overtook  the  caravan,  and  encamped  before  night  on  a high 
prairie,  where  we  could  find  but  little  wood,  and  it' was  dif- 
ficult to  make  a fire.  We  had  some  coarse  bread  made  of 
corn,  and  some  bacon  for  supper. . The  change,  from  the 


48 


A STORM. 


comforts  to  the  bare  necessaries  of  life  was  trying  ; but 
when  I had  wrapped  myself  in  my  blankets  and  laid  down 
upon  the  ground  to  repose  for  the  night,  I felt  thankful  to 
God  for  his  goodness. 

Being  now  beyond  all  white  inhabitants,  in  an  Indian 
country,  and  not  knowing  what  the  eventful  future  may 
unfold,  I thought  I could  give  up  all  my  private  interests 
for  the  good  of  the  perishing  heathen,  if  I could  be  instru- 
mental of  their  temporal  and  eternal  welfare.  Come  life 
or  death,  I thought  I could  say,  “thy  will  be  done.”  Felt 
strong  confidence,  that  God  would  protect  and  provide  for 
us,  and  derived  great  consolation  from  the  promise,  “ Lo,  I 
am  with  you  always.”  The  very  pelting  of  the  storm  upon 
our  tent  had  something  in  it  soothing,  and  calculated  to 
awaken  the  feeling  that  God  was  near. 

On  the  23d,  the  storm  still  continued,  and  we  did  not  re- 
move our  encampment. 

Towards  noon  on  the  24th,  wrent  forward  on  our  way  and 
crossed  the  Papillon  river,  which  occasioned  much  delay  to 
get  the  baggage,  wagons,  and  animals  over.  We  did  not 
find  a suitable  place  for  encamping  where  we  could  be  ac- 
commodated with  wood  and  water  until  about  sunset ; and 
before  we  could  pitch  our  tent,  a thunder  storm,  which  had 
been  gathering  for  a long  time,  came  down  upon  us  with 
great  violence,  accompanied  with  wind  and  hail.  The  ani- 
mals of  the  caravan  fled  in  different  directions,  some  packed 
and  some  unpacked.  I had  only  time  to  unpack  my  mule 
and  let  him  go,  and  it  was  with  much  difficulty  I could  hold 
my  horse,  which  had  become  almost  frantic  under  the  beat- 
ing hail,  nor  did  I escape  without  some  contusions.  The 
lightning  was  very  frequent,  and  the  thunder  was  almost 
one  continual  roar.  After  a while  the  fury  of  the  storm 


A FRIENDLY  MEETING. 


49 


abated,  and  in  the  dark  we  pitched  our  tent  and  got  our 
baggage  into  it,  but  were  not  able-  to  make  a fire.  We  took 
such  supper  as  we  could  provide  with  our  coarse  bread  and 
bacon,  without  light  and  without  fire,  and  laid  ourselves 
down  to  rest.  During  the  night  there  were  several  showers 
which  created  rivulets,  some  of  which  found  their  way  un- 
der our  tent.  Towards  morning  we  slept,  and  arose  some- 
what refreshed. 

The  morning  of  the  25th  was  very  pleasant,  and  afforded 
a good  opportunity  to  dry  our  baggage,  and  for  the  caravan 
to  collect  together  their  packs  of  goods,  which  were  scat- 
tered over  the  prairie.  After  having  spent  the  forenoon  in 
drying  ancb  adjusting  them,  we  went  forward  and  arrived  at 
the  Elkhorfij  a very  considerable  river.  For  conveyance 
over  this  river,  we  constructed  a boat  of  a wagon  body,  so 
covered  with  undressed  skins  as  to  make  it  nearly  water 
tight.  The  method  was  very  good,  and  we  commenced 
crossing,  but  night  came  on  before  we  finished,  and  there- 
fore we  encamped  on  the  east  side.  The  country  here  is 
excellent,  and  tolerably  supplied  with  wood. 

On  the  26th,  continued  carrying  over  our  baggage,  and 
finished  crossing  at  half  after  twelve,  after  which  we  trav- 
eled ten  miles  up  the  Elkhorn,  and  stopped  for  the  night. 

On  the  27th,  arose  very  early  and  pursued  our  journey, 
and  made  good  progress  until  three,  P.  M.  when  we  met 
Messrs.  Campbell  and  Sublette  with  a small  caravan,  re- 
turning from  the  Black  Hills.  When  mountain  traders 
meet  under  such  circumstances  there  must  be  mutual  ex- 
changes of  friendship,  more  ceremonious  and  complicated 
than  can  be  gone  through  with  in  the  passing  “ how  do  you 
do.”  The  two  caravans  encamped,  in  due  form,  and  at  a 
respectful  distance  from  egch  other*. 


50 


FUTURE  PROSPECTS. 


Sabbath,  28th.  The  caravans  continued  here  through 
the  day.  This  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  rest,  and  to  attend 
to  devotional  exercises  in  our  tent. 

On  the  29th,  passed  over  and  traveled  a good  distance  up 
Shell  creek.  As  a traveler,  I should  be  guilty  of  neglect 
of  duty,  if  I should  not  give  a description  of  this  section  of 
country,  belonging  to  the  Otoes  on  the  east,  and  the  Pawnees 
on  the  west.  For  about  twenty-five  miles  since  we  crossed  the 
Elkhorn,  between  this  river  and  the  Platte,  which  are  here 
about  ten  miles  apart,  there  is  not  a single  hill.  It  is  rich  bot- 
tom land,  covered  with  a luxuriant  growth  of  grass.  No 
country  could  be  more  inviting  to  the  farmer,  with  only  one 
exception,  the  want  of  wood  land.  The  latitude  is  sufficiently 
high  to  be  healthy ; and  as  the  climate  grows  warmer  as 
we  travel  west,  until  we  approach  the  snow-topped  moun- 
tains, there  is  a degree  of  mildness,  not  experienced  east  of 
the  Alleghany  mountains.  The  time  will  come,  and  proba- 
bly is  not  far  distant,  when  this  country  will  be  covered  with 
a dense  population.  The  earth  was  created  for  the  habita- 
tion of  man,  and  for  a theatre,  on  which  God  will  manifest 
his  perfections  in  his  moral  government  among  his  moral 
creatures,  and  therefore  the  earth,  according  to  divine  pre- 
diction, shall  be  given  to  the  people  of  God.  Although  in- 
fidels may  sneer,  and  scoffers  mock,  yet  God  will  accom- 
plish his  designs,  and  fulfil  every  promise  contained  in  his 
word.  Then  this  amazing  extent  of  most  fertile  land  will 
not  continue  to  be  the  wandering  ground  of  a few  thousand 
Indians,  with  only  a very  few  acres  under  cultivation  ; nor 
will  millions  of  tons  of  grass  grow  up  to  rot  upon  the  ground 
or  to  be  burned  up  with  the  fire  enkindled  to  sweep  over  the 
prairie,  to  disincumber  it  of  its  spontaneous  burden.  The 
herds  of  buffalo  which  once  fattened  upon  these  meadows 


LOUPS  FORK  OF  THE  PLATTE. 


51 


are  gone  ; and  the  deer  which  once  cropped  the  grass  have 
disappeared ; and  the  antelopes  have  fled  away  ; and  shall 
solitude  reign  here  till  the  end  of  time  ? No : here  shall 
be  heard  the  din  of  business,  and  the  church-going  bell  shall 
sound  far  and  wide.  The  question  is,  by  whom  shall  this 
region  of  country  be  inhabited  ? It  is  plain  that  the  Indi- 
ans under  their  present  circumstances  will  never  multiply 
and  fill  this  land.  They  must  be  brought  under  the  influ- 
ence of  civilization  and  Christianity,  or  they  will  continue 
to  melt  away,  until  nothing  will  remain  of  them  but  relics 
found  in  museums,  and  some  historical  records.  Philan- 
thropy and  the  mercy  of  God  plead  in  their  behalf. 

We  were  awakened  on  the  30th,  at  the  first  breaking  of 
the  day,  by  the  usual  call,  “ out,  out ; gear  up  your  mules.” 
We  traveled  until  one  o’clock,  P.  M.  more  than  eight  hours, 
when  we  halted  and  breakfasted.  We  went  again  on  our 
way,  and  came  to  the  Loups  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  stopped 
for  the  night.  Most  of  the  country  over  which  we  traveled 
to-day  was  a rolling  prairie.  There  is  nothing  in  this  sec- 
tion of  country  to  interest  the  geologist.  I did  not  see  a 
single  stone,  after  passing  the  Papillon  to  this  place,  except- 
ing a few  small  ones  in  the  place  where  we  crossed  that 
stream,  and  which  on  that  account  is  called  Rockford.  It 
is  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  dialect  of  the  people  in  the 
westernmost  states,  to  call  small  stones  rocks.  And  there- 
fore they  speak  of  throwing  a rock  at  a bird,  or  at  a man. 
There  are  no  forests  in  these  western  regions.  The  mead- 
ows spread  out  almost  without  bounds.  There  are  only 
here  and  there  some  clumps  of  trees ; and  the  rivers  and 
smaller  streams  are  skirted  with  cotton  wood,  elms  and  wil- 
lows. Whatever  propriety  there  once  was,  there  is  none 
now,  in  calling  the  Indians,  children  of  the  forest. 


52 


MANNER  OF  ENCAMPING. 


The  thermometer  stood  to-day,  at  noon,  at  81°. 

Wednesday,  July  1st.  I rested  the  last  night  as  quietly 
as  I should  have  done  in  a civilized  country,  and  upon  a 
good  bed,  and  was  cheerful  in  committing  myself  to  God,  to 
awake  in  this,  or  in  the  eternal  world,  as  he  shall  direct. 

We  have  a small  tent  made  of  coarse  cotton  cloth,  form- 
ing a cone.  After  setting  this,  we  stow  away  our  baggage 
so  as  to  leave  a space  in  the  centre  for  our  lodgings.  My 
bed  is  made  by  first  spreading  down  a buffalo  skin,  upon 
this  a bear  skin,  then  two  or  three  Mackinaw  blankets,  and 
my  portmanteau  constitutes  my  pillow. 

W e proceeded  to-day  a few  miles  up  the  Loups  fork,  and 
unexpectedly  found  a good  fording  place,  where  we  crossed 
the  river,  which  in  this  place  is  nearly  a mile  wide.  After 
going  a few  miles  up  the  river,  we  halted  for  the  night. 
The  manner  of  out  encamping,  is  to  form  a large  hollow 
square,  encompassing  an  area  of  about  an  acre,  having  the 
river  on  one  side  ; three  wagons  forming  a part  of  another 
side,  coming  down  to  the  river ; and  three  more  in  the  same 
manner  on  the  opposite  side ; and  the  packages  so  arranged 
in  parcels,  about  three  rods  apart,  as  to  fill  up  the  rear,  and 
the  sides  not  occupied  by  the  wagons.  The  horses  and 
mules,  near  the  middle  of  the  day,  are  turned  out  under 
guard,  to  feed  for  two  hours ; and  the  same  again  towards 
night,  until  after  sunset,  when  they  are  taken  up  and  brought 
into  the  hollow  square,  and  fastened  with  ropes  twelve  feet 
long,  to  pickets  driven  firmly  into  the  ground.  The  men 
are  divided  into  small  companies,  stationed  at  the  several 
parcels  of  goods  and  wagons,  where  they  wrap  themselves 
in  their  blankets  and  rest  for  the  night;  the  whole  how- 
ever are  formed  into  six  divisions  to  keep  guard,  relieving 
each  other  every  two  hours.  This  is  to  prevent  hostile 


PAWNEE  FEASTS. 


•53 


Indians  from  falling  upon  us  by  surprise,  or  coming  into  the 
camp  by  stealth  and  taking  away  either  horses  or  packages 
of  goods.  We  were  permitted,  by  favor,  to  pitch  our  tent 
next  to  the  river,  half  way  between  the  two  wings,  which 
made  our  situation  a little  more  retired. 

Nothing  of  special  interest  occurred  on  the  second.  On 
the  third,  we  passed  the  villages  of  the  Tapage  and  Republi- 
can Pawnee  Indians.  These  Indians  have  dwellings  which 
appear  substantial  and  somewhat  adapted  to  comfort.  Many 
of  the  Pawnee  Loups  came  to  us,  and  received  us  with 
great  civility  and  kindness.  Big  Ax,  their  second  chief,  had 
charge  of  this  party.  He  is  a man  of  dignified  appearance, 
and  his  countenance  is  expressive  of  intelligence  and  bene- 
volence. He  is  very  friendly  to  white  men.  These  Indians 
were  going  out  upon  their  summer  hunt,  by  the  same  route 
we  were  pursuing,  and  were  not  willing  we  should  go  on 
before  them,  lest  we  should  frighten  away  the  buffalo. 

They  manifested  their  friendship  by  inviting  us  to  feasts ; 
and  as  we  may  attend  half  a dozen  in  a day  without  being 
surfeited,  an  explanation  may  not  be  out  of  place.  Big  Ax 
gave  the  first  invitation ; and  as  it  is  not  customary  for 
those  who  provide  the  feast  to  sit  down  with  their  guests, 
he  and  his  associates  sat  in  dignified  silence  on  one  side  of 
the  lodge,  while  those  of  us  who  partook  of  the  feast,  occu- 
pied the  centre.  The  daughters  of  Big  Ax  served  us  on 
the  occasion,  and  bountifully  helped  us  to  boiled  corn  and 
beans.  Such  are  their  customs,  that  to  avoid  giving  offence, 
we  must  eat  all  that  is  set  before  us,  or  take  it  away,  and 
Mr.  Fontenelle  took  what  remained.  In  the  evening  we 
were  invited  to  two  others.  The  first  consisted  of  boiled 
corn  and  dried  pumpkins,  and  the  other  of  boiled  buffalo 

meat.  We  also  gave  the  principal  chiefs  a feast,  setting 

6 


54 


CHANGES  OP  THE  R?VER. 


before  them  all  the  variety  which  our  bacon  and  coarse 
bread  could  furnish,  having  it  in  our  power  to  add  a dish  of 
coffee,  of  which  luxury  we  partook  for  this  once  on  our 
whole  journey. 

Amidst  the  uniformity  of  prairie  scenery,  there  is  yet 
some  variety.  It  was  curious  to  mark  the  alterations  which 
time  and  flood  have  made  in  the  channel  of  this  river. 
Formerly,  perhaps  not  a few  centuries  ago,  the  river  ran  a 
hundred  feet  higher  than  at  present,  and  it  is  probably 
owing  to  the  yielding  nature  of  the  soil  that  its  waters  are 
so  very  turbid.  The  water  of  the  Loups  fork,  however, 
comparatively  speaking,  is  quite  clear.  This  section  of 
country  offers  an  interesting  field  for  botanical  research. 
Since  crossing  the  Elkhorn,  I have  noticed  nine  different 
species  of  grass,  most  of  which  are  entirely  new.  The 
flowering  plants  are  very  numerous  and  beautiful,  and  espe- 
cially the  rose,  which  is  found  of  almost  every  hue.  Ther- 
mometer, at  noon,  90°. 

July  4th.  This  is  a day  of  great  noise  and  bustle  in  the 
States.  Orators  speak  of  the  deeds  and  achievements  of  our 
forefathers  : their  audiences  catch  the  spirit  of  patriotism. 
Not  so  with  our  company.  Having  almost  expatriated 
themselves,  they  had  forgotten  their  nation’s  birth-day  ; and 
knowing  that  their  days  of  indulgence  would  be  seasons  of 
reveling,  I forbore  to  remind  them  of  it.  How  suitable 
would  be  a rational  religious  expression  of  gratitude  to 
Heaven,  instead  of  the  confusion  and  riot,  which  are  the  com- 
mon demonstrations  of  joy  on  such  occasions.  Thermome- 
ter 96°  at  noon. 

On  the  fifth,  which  was  the  Sabbath,  the  caravan  went 
forward  a few  miles  and  then  encamped.  The  Indians  were 
constantly  calling  at  our  tent  through  the  day.  It  was  pain- 


MISSIONARIES. 


55 


ful  to  witness  their  poor  degraded  condition,  ignorant  of  God' 
and  salvation,  and*  for  want  of  a knowledge  of  their 
language,  to  be  unable  to  point  them  to  the  Savior,  or  teach 
them  their  obligations  to  their  Maker,  and  their  duty  to  turn 
to  him  with  their  whole  heart.  I hope  and  pray  that  the 
Pawnee  mission  may  prosper;  that  tlie  disposition  which 
Messrs.  Dunbar  and  Allis  manifest  to  go  with  the  Indians 
and  live  as  they  live,  may  be  followed 'up,  until  their  teach- 
ing and  influence  are  felt,  and  the  Indians  shall  locate  them- 
selves upon  their  lands,  under  the  influence  of  Christianity 
and  civilization.  The  mode  which  Messrs.  D.  and  A.  have 
adopted  of  going  with  the  Indians  where  they  go,  appears  to 
be  the  right  one,  and  must  be  generally  adopted  to  bring  the 
numerous  wandering  nations  and  tribes  to  the  knowledge 
of  Christ. 

It  is  ail  important  that  the  missionary  be  able  to  speak  to 
the  heathen  in  the  language  wherein  they  were  born.  It  is 
also  important  that  the  Indians  settle  down  and  cultivate  the 
soil ; but  how  can  they  be  induced  to  do  this  before  they  are 
taught  ? Do  any  say,  by  an  interpreter  ? An  interpreter 
may  be  employed  for  awhile,  but  the  missionary  must  be- 
come, as  soon  as  possible,  his  own  interpreter.  And  why  can 
he  not  learn  the  Indian  language  as  well  as  the  trader  and 
hunter  ? He  can,  if  he  will  exercise  as  much  self-denial. 

On  the  sixth,  we  left  the  Loups  fork,  very  early  in  the 
morning,  in  company  with  the  Pawnees,  and  directed  our 
course  south-west  for  the  Platte  river.  Towards  evening, 
we  had  a thunder  storm  with  heavy  rains,  which  continued 
through  most  of  the  night ; but,  protected  by  our  tent,  we 
slept  so  soundly,  that  our  meat  was  stolen  from  us ; and  in 
our  circumstances,  though  only  about  six  pounds,  it  was  a 
sensible  loss. 


56 


BIG  AX.  A PAWNEE  CHIEF. 


After  we  came  to  the  Platte,  we  pursued  our  way  up  the 
river,  which  is  broad,  but  not  very  deep,  as  its  name  indi- 
cates. The  country  begins  to  diminish  in  its  fertility,  but 
still  is  very  good.  We  were  prevented  from  making  the 
progress  we  might  have  done,  if  the  Indians  would  have 
permitted  us  to  go  on  and  leave  them.  The  men  of  the  cara- 
van began  to  complain  of  the  delay,  and  had  reason  to  do  so, 
having  nothing  to  eat«but  boiled  corn,  and  no  way  to  obtain 
any  thing  more  before  finding  buffalo. 

The  intellectual  powers  of  these  Indians  are  very  good, 
but  need  cultivation.  They  are  fond  of  ornaments,  and  not 
having  the  means  of  gratifying  their  vanity  as  civilized  peo- 
ple have,  they  resort  to  almost  any  thing  to  decorate  their 
persons ; such  as  porcupine  quills,  beads,  wreaths  of  grass 
and  flowers,  brass  rings  upon  their  wrists,  birds’  feathers, 
and  claws  of  wild  beasts  ; the  claws  of  a grizzly  bear  are  an 
ornament  of  the  first  order,  and  the  tails  of  white  wolves  are 
in  high  estimation.  But  their  most  universal  and  particu- 
lar ornament  is  painting  their  faces  with  vermilion. 

These  heathen,  like  all  others,  are  ignorant  of  the  benign 
influence  of  the  gospel,  and  therefore,  while  they  have  many 
interesting  traits  of  character,  are  cruel  to  their  old  men  and 
women.  The  women  are  compelled  to  do  all  the  work — 
the  men  only  hunt  and  go  to  war.  Having  but  few  horses, 
when  they  journey,  they  place  burdens  upon  the  old  men  and 
women,  and  even  upon  the  blind  and  lame — and  their  dogs. 
I did  not  see  among  these  Indians  a single  person  having 
any  natural  deformity,  nor  any  one  who  appeared  to  be  de- 
ficient in  common  sense. 

July  9th.  To-day  Big  Ax  came  to  my  tent  and  sat  by 
me  a long  time.  Never  did  I so  much  wish  to  converse  with 
any  man  and  tell  him  about  the  Savior,  and,  from  the  ex- 


ATTEMPT  TO  MURDER. 


57 


pression  of  his  countenance,  I thought  he  desired  to  be  in- 
structed. But  the  gift  of  tongues  was  not  imparted  to  me, 
and  we  could  only  converse  with  the  language  of  signs, 
which  is  far  more  intelligible  than  I had  anticipated. 

Capt.  Fontenelle,  by  a large  present,  purchased  of  the  In- 
dians the  privilege  of  going  on  to-morrow  without  them. 
Our  men  could  hardly  have  been  kept  in  subordination,  if 
they  had  not  consented. 

Towards  the  night  of  the  10th,  we  had  an  uncommon 
storm  of  thunder,  hail,  rain,  and  wind.  The  horses  and 
mules  could  not  be  controlled,  and  turned  and  fled  in  all  di- 
rections before  the  storm.  The  whole  caravan  was  scattered 
over  • the  prairie  ; but  when  the  storm  abated,  they  were 
again  collected  without  much  difficulty,  and  nothing  was 
lost.  If  any  hostile  band  of  Indians  had  been  about  us,  it 
would  have  been  easy  for  them  to  have  made  us  a prey. 
But  the  Lord  not  only  rode  upon  the  storm,  but  was  also  near 
for  our  defence.  The  scene  was  alarming,  and  yet  grand 
and  truly  sublime. 

Sabbath,  12th.  We  are  in  a land  of  dangers,  but  God  is 
our  preserver,  and  how  desirable  it  is,  that  his  mercies  should 
be  had  in  grateful  remembrance,  and  that  the  portion  of  time, 
which  he  has  set  apart  as  holy,  should  be  observed  as  such. 
The  caravan  travelled  a part  of  the  day,  but  were  under  the 
necessity  of  stopping  in  consequence  of  rain,  which  wet  their 
packages.  It  is  worthy  of  notice,  that  there  have  been  vari- 
ous providences,  which  have  thus  far  prevented  them  from 
traveling  much  upon  the  Sabbath.  But  this  day  has  been 
one  of  great  confusion  and  wickedness.  In  consequence  of 
the  men  being  drenched  with  rain,  whiskey  was  dealt  out 
freely,  to  keep  them  from  taking  cold.  Most  of  them  became 

much  excited,  and  one,  who  took  an  active  part  in  killing 

6* 


58 


MEDICINAL  PLANT. 


Garrio,  stabbed  a man,  with  full  intent  to  have  pierced  his 
heart ; but  the  knife,  by  striking  a rib,  turned  aside  and 
only  made  a deep  flesh  wound. 

I think  I know  the  feelings  of  David,  when  he  expressed 
a strong  desire  after  the  sanctuary  of  God,  and  to  dwell  in 
his  tabernacle. 

July  13th.  We  are  not  traveling  through  forests,  nor  a 
solitary  desert,  but  through  almost  boundless  meadows,  that 
have  the  appearance  of  being  under  good  cultivation.  We 
see  no  fields  of  grain,  secured  from  the  beasts  of  the  earth 
by  fences,  nor  habitations  of  civilized  men,  but  meadows 
adorned  with  a great  variety  of  plants,  some  of  which  ap- 
pear to  be  gregarious.  Often  some  acres  are  diversified 
with  great  variety  of  colors  and  species. 

There  are  two  species  of  plants  which  are  said  to  be  a 
sovereign  remedy  against  the  poison  of  the  rattle-snake,  the 
virtues  of  one  of  which  we  had  an  opportunity  of  testing. 
One  of  our  men  was  bitten  in  the  foot,  and  before  we  knew 
it  the  poison  had  so  far  progressed,  that  both  the  foot  and 
leg  had  become  much  inflamed  and  very  painful.  One  of 
these  plants  was  applied  to  the  parts  affected,  and  at  once 
the  man  was  convalescent,  and  in  a few  hours  was  well. 
The  leaves  of  the  plant  resemble  those  of  the  blue  flag, 
except  that  they  are  serrated.  The  healing  properties  are 
contained  in  the  roots,  which  are  bruised  and  applied  to  the 
affected  parts.  Rattle-snakes  are  not  numerous.  These 
and  other  reptiles  are  prevented  from  multiplying,  by  the 
fires  which  every  year  run  over  the  prairies. 

On  the  14th,  the  announcement  of  buffalo  spread  cheer- 
fulness and  animation  through  the  whole  caravan,  and  to 
men  whose  very  life  depended  on  the  circumstance,  it  was  no 
indifferent  event.  F rom  the  immense  herds  of  these  wild  ani~ 


BUFFALO,  THEIR  APPEARANCE. 


59 


mals,  dispersed  over  these  beautiful  fields  of  nature,  we  were 
to  derive  our  subsistence.  Although  several  were  seen  to- 
day, yet  our  hunters  were  not  successful  in  obtaining  many. 

I had  heard  of  the  prairie  horse-fly,  but  was  not  aware 
that  it  would  be  so  very  annoying  and  even  tormenting  to 
our  horses.  Its  bite  is  like  the  thrust  of  the  point  of  a lan- 
cet, and  when  the  fly  is  surfeited,  or  is  brushed  off,  the  blood 
immediately  gushes  out.  When  the  caravan  is  in  close 
company,  there  being  about  two  hundred  horses  and  mules, 
the  number  of  the  flies  are  so  divided  that  they  are  mnre 
tolerable ; but  when  for  any  purpose  a horse  is  separated 
from  the  company,  he  is  severely  bitten  by  them.  On  one 
occasion,  when  I rode  forward  to  find  a crossing  place  over 
a deep  muddy  stream  of  water,  they  came  around  my  horse 
in  such  swarms  that  he  became  frantic,  and  I was  obliged 
to  return  in  full  speed.  I have  no  doubt  that  a horse  left 
alone  in  the  season  of  these  flies  would  be  killed  by  them. 

The  next  day,  we  journeyed  as  usual,  and  about  noon 
arrived  at  the  Forks  of  the  Platte.  We  saw  a large  herd  of 
buffalo,  from  which  we  obtained  a good  supply  of  excellent 
meat.  These  animals,  with  their  shaggy  shoulders,  neck, 
and  heads,  make  a very  majestic  appearance,  and  if  their 
natures  were  unknown,  would  be  terrific.  But  they  are 
timid  and  inoffensive,  showing  no  disposition  to  injure  any 
person,  except  in  self-defense,  when  wounded  and  closely 
pursued.  Their  strength  is  great ; and,  although  they  look 
clumsy,  they  run  very  swiftly.  It  requires  a horse  of  more 
than  ordinary  speed,  to  outrun  them  for  any  considerable  time . 

The  section  of  country  about  the  Forks  of  the  Platte  is 
very  pleasant,  without  any  high  mountains  in  sight ; but  at 
a distance  beyond  the  widely  extended  rich  bottom  landsr 
bluffs  of  various  forms  present  a picturesque  scenery.  The 


60 


DEFENSIVE  PREPARATIONS. 


entire  absence  of  forests  in  a large  space  of  country  around, 
is  a deficiency  which  cannot  be  easily  supplied ; but  prob- 
ably forest  trees  might  be  cultivated  to  advantage.  Is  it 
not  highly  probable  that  mineral  coal  will  be  found  here  as 
well  as  upon  the  prairies  in  the  western  states  ? We  found 
no  wood  yesterday,  nor  to-day,  and  probably  shall  not  for 
some  days  to  come ; and  therefore  we  have  been  under  the 
necessity  of  making  our  fires  with  the  dry  dung  of  the  buf- 
falo. The  most  thoroughly  weather-beaten  is  selected,  and 
proves  to  be  a better  substitute  for  common  fuel  than  we 
had  anticipated.  Although  we  are  now  where  we  had  fears 
of  finding  the  Arickara  Indians,  the  death  of  whose  chief 
has  been  mentioned,  and  who  have  been  residing  near  this 
place  for  several  months  past,  yet  we  have  seen  no  Indians 
since  we  left  the  Pawnees.  It  is  supposed  they  have  gone 
far  up  the  south  Fork  of  the  Platte,  to  avoid  the  United 
States  dragoons,  under  the  command  of  Col.  Dodge,  who 
are  on  their  way  to  call  them  to  account  for  their  conduct 
towards  white  men,  and  to  form  with  them  a treaty  of  peace. 
But  they  intend  to  keep  out  of  the  way  of  the  dragoons,  and 
therefore  we  hope  to  pass  unmolested. 

We  took  our  course  up  the  north-west  Fork  of  the  Platte, 
and  towards  night  encamped  upon  its  bank  in  our  usual 
form,  using  particular  caution  to  be  prepared  for  an  attack 
of  the  Arickaras,  should  any  of  their  war  parties  be  about 
us.  Every  man  was  required  to  see  that  his  rifle  was  in 
good  order,  and  to  have  a good  supply  of  powder  and  balls. 
W e all  slept  with  our  clothes  on,  so  that,  if  called  by  the 
sentinel’s  fire,  we  might  in  less  than  a moment  be  ready  for 
action ; but  the  night  passed  away  in  quietude,  and  at  the 
first  breaking  of  the  day  we  were  awakened  with  the  cus- 
tomary call  of  the  guide. 


ANTELOPES. 


61 


Saw,  on  the  16th,  the  buffalo  in  greater  numbers,  and 
nearer  than  previously.  They  are  less  shy  than  those  we 
first  found.  They  are  more  majestic  than  the  elk,  but  less 
beautiful.  The  antelopes,  some  of  which  we  have  seen  for 
several  days  past,  are  becoming  very  numerous,  and  their 
speed  exceeds  that  of  any  animal  I have  ever  seen.  Our 
hounds  can  do  nothing  in  giving  them  the  chase ; for  the 
dogs  are  so  soon  left  far  in  the  rear,  that  they  do  not  follow 
more  than  ten  or  twenty  rods,  before  they  return,  looking 
ashamed  of  their  defeat.  Our  hunters  occasionally  take 
some  by  coming  upon  them  by  stealth.  When  they  are 
surprised,  they  start  forward  a very  small  space,  then  turn, 
and  with  high  lifted  heads,  stare  for  a few  seconds  at  the 
object  which  has  alarmed  them,  and  then,  with  a half  whis- 
tling snuff,  bound  off,  seeming  to  be  as  much  upon  wings  as 
upon  feet.  They  resemble  the  goat,  but  are  far  more  beau- 
tiful. Though  they  are  of  different  colors,  yet  they  are 
generally  red,  and  have  a large,  fine,  prominent  eye.  Their 
flesh  is  good  for  food,  and  about  equal  to  venison. 

July  17th.  We  did  not  go  on  our  way  as  early  this 
morning  as  usual,  having  been  detained  by  breaking  an 
axle-tree  of  one  of  our  wagons.  The  country  is  becoming 
more  hilly,  and  the  bluffs  in  some  places  come  down  to  the 
river.  Herds  of  buffalo  are  seen  in  almost  every  direction, 
and  they  are  so  numerous,  that  our  animals  find  scanty  pas- 
ture. The  thermometer  stood  at  noon  at  88°.  Encamped 
a little  below  Cedar  bluffs,  so  called  from  the  few  cedars 
scattered  over  them,  which  promise  a better  supply  of  fuel. 

Commenced  our  journey  on  the  18th,  at  our  usual  early 
hour,  to  travel  on  until  near  noon  before  breakfast.  From 
the  change  of  vegetation  of  various  kinds,  and  birds,  &c. 
it  is  evident  we  are  ascending  into  higher  regions  of  coun- 


62 


SHOOTING  BUFFALO. 


try,  and  an  atmosphere  more  resembling  that  of  the  New 
England  States.  As  we  advance,  the  flowering  plants  are 
becoming  less  numerous ; and  although  the  middle  of  the 
day  is  very  warm,  yet  the  nights  and  mornings  are  more 
cool.  The  ascent  is  so  gradual,  that  the  change  is  not  per- 
ceptible. Rocks  begin  to  appear,  and  still  we  are  far  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  Limestone  of  light  brown  color  is 
found  in  the  bluffs,  laying  in  horizontal  strata,  which  might 
be  easily  worked  and  to  any  extent.  Very  small  black 
gnats,  hardly  discernible  by  the  naked  eye,  have  been  nu- 
merous and  very  annoying,  and  for  several  days  we  rode 
with  silk  handkerchiefs  closely  tied  over  our  faces  to  pro- 
tect us  from  their  poisonous  bite. 

July  20th.  Thousands  of  buffalo  were  seen  to-day,  and 
our  men  amused  themselves  with  chasing  and  shooting  at 
them ; but  it  was  well  for  the  buffalo  that  they  made  poor 
shots.  I can  hardly  reconcile  it  with  a good  conscience,  to 
trifle  with  the  life  even  of  the  most  insignificant  animals,  yet, 
for  once,  I felt  myself  powerfully  inclined  to  try  my  horse 
in  the  chase.  The  noble  creature  enjoyed  the  sport,  and 
would  have  rushed  fearlessly  into  the  midst  of  them,  had  I 
not  held  him  in  check.  At  that  time,  not  being  sufficiently 
acquainted  with  this  species  of  amusement,  and  intending 
to  make  sure  of  my  victim,  I dismounted  in  order  to  take  a 
more  steady  aim  than  I could  have  otherwise  done  ; and  by  so 
doing,  as  our  guide  afterwards  informed  me,  placed  myself 
in  imminent  danger  ; for  the  animal,  if  wounded,  often  turns 
upon  his  antagonist  to  retaliate  his  injuries.  Fortunately, 
though  I wounded  one,  he  did  not  rise  upon  me,  and  I re- 
turned  to  the  caravan  unconscious  of  danger. 

Badgers  inhabit  this  part  of  the  country,  and  from  the 
many  holes,  which  they  dig  in  the  ground  for  their  dwell* 


BADGERS— PRAIRIE  DOGS. 


63 


mgs,  they  most  be  very  numerous,  though  we  have  seen 
only  a few,  and  have  killed  but  one.  They  keep  near  their 
burrows,  and  run  into  them  on  the  least  approach  of  danger. 
The  badger  is  of  the  genus  ursus , about  the  size  of  the  mar- 
mot, or  what  is  often  called  the  woodchuck,  of  a silvery  gray 
color,  with  short  legs,  and  its  whole  aspect  is  interesting.  I 
did  not  have  an  opportunity  to  learn  many  of  its  habits.  A 
small  animal  called  the  prairie  dog,  abounds  in  this  section 
of  country.  It  takes  its  name,  not  from  its  appearance,  but 
from  its  barking,  which  is  like  that  of  a very  small  dog.  It 
is  of  a brown  color,  and  its  fur  is  of  superior  fineness.  It 
is  very  shy  and  difficult  to  be  taken.  Was  it  not  for  this 
last  circumstance,  I should  think  it  might  be  an  important 
article  of  traffic. 

We  passed,  on  the  21st,  many  uncommonly  interesting 
bluffs  composed  of  indurated  clay  ; many  of  them  very  high, 
with  perpendicular  sides,  and  of  almost  every  imaginable 
form.  Some  appeared  like  strong  fortifications  with  high 
citadels  ; some  like  stately  edifices  with  lofty  towers.  I 
had  never  before  seen  any  thing  like  them  of  clay  formation < 
And  what  adds  to  their  beauty  is,  that  the  clay  of  which 
they  are  composed,  is  nearly  white.  Such  is  the  smoothness 
and  whiteness  of  the  perpendicular  sides  and  offsets ; and 
such  the  regularity  of  their  straight  and  curved  lines,  that 
one  can  hardly  believe  that  they  are  not  the  work  of  art. 

It  was  a very  warm  day.  The  thermometer  stood  at  noon, 
at  90°,  and  at  five  o’clock,  P.  M.  at  100°.  There  were  no 
prairie  winds  as  usual.  Almost  every  day  winds  blow  over 
the  prairies  like  sea  breezes,  or  trade  winds.  They  gene- 
rally commence  about  eight  in  the  morning,  and  continue 
through  the  day.  These  winds  render  the  traveling  com- 
fortable, although  the  thermometer  may  range  high. 


64 


THE  OLD  CASTLE. 


We  encamped  to-day  in  the  neighborhood  of  a great  nat- 
ural curiosity,  which,  for  the  sake  of  a name,  I shall  call 
the  old  castle.  It  is  situated  upon  the  south  side  of  the 
Platte,  on  a plain,  some  miles  distant  from  any  elevated 
land,  and  covers  more  than  an  acre  of  ground,  and  is  more 
than  fifty  feet  high.  It  has,  at  the  distance  of  the  width  of 
the  river,  all  the  appearance  of  an  old  enormous  building, 
somewhat  dilapidated  ; but  still  you  see  the  standing  avails, 
the  roof,  the  turrets,  embrasures,  the  dome,  and  almost  the 
very  windows  ; and  large  guard-houses,  standing  some  rods 
in  front  of  the  main  building.  You  unconsciously  look 
around  for  the  enclosures,  but  they  are  all  swept  away  by  the 
lapse  of  time — for  the  inhabitants,  but  they  have  disap- 
peared ; all  is  silent  and  solitary.  Although  you  correct 
your  imagination,  and  call  to  remembrance,  that  you  are 
beholding  the  work  of  nature,  yet,  before  you  are  aware, 
the  illusion  takes  you  again,  and  your  curiosity  is  excited  to 
know  who  built  this  fabric,  and  what  have  become  of  the 
by-gone  generations.  I found  it  impossible  to  divest  myself  of 
such  impressions.  The  longer  and  the  more  minutely  I ex- 
amined it,  the  more  I saw  to  admire  ; and  it  reminded  me 
of  those  descriptions  of  powrer  and  grandeur  in  ruins,  of 
which  we  read  of  ancient  times  and  nations. 

Encamped  at  noon  of  the  22d,  near  another  of  nature's 
wonders.  It  has  been  called  the  chimney  ; but  I should 
say,  it  ought  to  be  called  beacon  hill,  from  its  resemblance 
to  what  was  beacon  hill  in  Boston.  Being  anxious  to  have 
a near  view,  although  in  a land  of  dangers,  I concluded  to 
take  an  assistant  and  pass  over  the  river  to  it.  The  river 
where  we  crossed  was  about  a mile  wide,  shallow  and  full 
of  quicksand,  but  we  passed  it  without  any  difficulties.  We 
rode  about  three  miles  over  a level  plain,  and  came  to  the 


AN  ALARM. 


65 


base.  This  distance  from  the  other  side  of  the  river  did  not 
appear  more  than  a mile,  so  deceptive  are  distances  over 
plains  without  any  landmarks.  This  beacon  hill  has  a 
conical  formed  base  of  about  half  a mile  in  circumference, 
and  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height ; and  above  this  a 
perpendicular  column,  twelve  feet  square,  and  eighty  feet 
high ; making  the  whole  height  about  two  hundred  and 
thirty  feet.  We  left  our  horses  at  the  base,  and  ascended 
to  the  perpendicular.  It  is  formed  of  indurated  clay  or  marl, 
and  in  some  parts  is  petrified.  It  is  of  a light  chocolate,  or 
rufous  colour,  in  some  parts  white.  Near  the  top  were 
some  handsome  stalactites,  at  which  my  assistant  shot, 
and  broke  off  some  pieces,  of  which  I have  taken  a small 
specimen.  We  descended,  and  having  finished  my  survey, 
had  just  mounted  our  horses,  when  we  saw  two  bands  of 
buffalo,  six  or  eight  hundred  in  number,  coming  full  speed 
towards  us,  taking  their  course  down  the  river.  We  knew 
somebody  must  be  pursuing  them,  and  as,  from  indications 
for  two  days  past,  we  had  suspected  Indians  near,  we  thought 
it  would  be  the  safest  for  us  to  make  and  secure  a speedy 
retreat  to  the  caravan,  and  set  off  in  haste  for  the  river,  which 
at  the  nearest  point  was  two  miles  distant.  Very  soon  we 
saw  a man  on  horseback  coming  full  speed  towards  us — he 
stopped  and  gave  a signal  for  others  behind  him  to  hasten  on, 
and  at  once  we  saw  a band  of  men  coming  full  rush.  We 
put  our  horses  to  their  utmost  speed,  and  when  we  thought 
our  retreat  to  the  river  fully  secured,  we  stopped  and 
took  an  observation  with  'a  large  spy-glass,  which  we 
had  taken  the  precaution  to  have  with  us,  and  found  they 
were  white  men,  who  had  come  from  a fort  of  the  American 
Fur  Company  at  the  Black  Hills,  to  meet  the  caravan.  Mr. 

Fontenelle,  the  commander  of  the  caravan,  saw^  the  move- 

7 


66 


SCOfT’s  BLUFFS# 

ment,  was  alarmed  for  our  safety,  and  came  out  in  all  haste, 
with  a number  of  armed  men  to  our  assistance.  But  all  re- 
sulted in  friends  meeting  friends.  There  were  some  Ogal- 
lallah  Indians  near  us,  who  came  to  our  camp  in  the  even- 
ing. Thermometer  90°. 

On  the  23d,  after  traveling  a few  miles,  we  encamped 
near  Scott’s  bluffs.  These  are  the  termination  of  a high 
range  of  land  running  from  south  to  north.  They  are  very 
near  the  river,  high  and  abrupt,  and  what  is  Worthy  of  notice, 
there  is  a pass  through  the  range  a short  distance  back  from 
the  river,  the  width  of  a common  road,  with  perpendicular 
sides  two  or  three  hundred  feet  high#  It  appears  as  though 
a part  of  the  bluffs  had  been  cut  off,  and  moved  a few  rods 
to  the  north.  Instead  of  journeying,  the  naturalist  would 
desire  ^veeks  to  examine  the  interesting  scenery  of  this  sec- 
tion of  country,  and  the  more  minute  his  examination  the 
more  would  he  find  to  gratify  his  curiosity. 

This  whole  country  appears  to  abound  in  magnesia,  so 
that  epsom  salts  are  found  in  almost  every  part ; in  some 
places  in  large  quantities  in  a crystalized  state.  Our  hor- 
ses and  mules  were  disposed  to  make  these  a substitute  for 
common  salt.  Thermometer  to-day  stood  at  90Q. 

While  we  were  encamped  at  noon  of  the  24th,  and  our 
horses  and  mules  were  turned  out  under  guard,  and  we  were 
preparing  our  breakfast,  or  what  should  be  dinner,  we  were 
alarmed  with  the  call,  “ secure  your  animals ! secure  your 
animals !”  I looked  around  to  discover  the  cause  of  the 
alarm,  and  saw,  at  about  a mile  and  a half  distance,  some 
thirty  or  forty  Indians  coming  on  horseback  at  full  speed# 
We  had  not  more  than  half  secured  our  animals  and  pre- 
pared for  defence,  when  the  Indians  were  close  upon  us  ; 
whether  friends  or  foes  we  could  not  tell,  until  they  were 


THE  OGALLALLAHS. 


67 


nearly  within  rifle  shot,  when,  according  to  the  customary 
expression  of  friendship,  they  fired  their  guns  into  the  air, 
and  then  rushed  into  our  camp,  and  exchanged  salutations 
of  peace.  They  were  Ogallallahs,  headed  by  eight  of  their 
chiefs,  clad  in  their  war  habiliments,  and  presenting  some- 
what of  a terrific  appearance.  The  chiefs  dined  with  us, 
and  were  very  talkative  among  themselves  ; for,  not  hav- 
ing any  good  interpreter,  we  could  not  join  in  conversation 
with  them.  Every  thing,  however,  went  on  pleasantly,  and 
to  mutual  satisfaction.  They  told  us  their  whole  village 
was  only  a few  hours  travel  ahead  of  us,  going  to  the  Black 
Hills  for  the  purpose  of  trading. 

On  the  25th,  the  heat  was  very  oppressive  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  there  not  being  as  much  wind  as  usual.  Ther- 
mometer 92®.  Towards  evening,  we  came  to  the  main  vil- 
lage of  the  Ogallallahs,  consisting  of  more  than  two  thou- 
sand persons.  These  villages  are  not  stationary,  but  move 
from  place  to  pi&ce,  as  inclination  or  convenience  may  dic- 
tate. Their  lodges  are  comfortable,  and  easily  transported. 
They  are  constructed  of  eight  or  ten  poles  about  eighteen 
feet  long,  set  up  in  a circular  form,  the  small  ends  fastened 
together,  making  an  apex,  and  the  large  ends  are  spread 
out  so  as  to  enclose  an  area  of  about  twenty  feet  in  diame- 
ter. The  whole  is  covered  with  their  coarse  skins,  which 
are  elk,  or  buffalo,  taken  when  they  are  not  good  for  robes. 
A fire  is  made  in  the  centre,  a hole  being  left  in  the  top  of 
the  lodge  for  the  smoke  to  pass  out.  All  that  they  have  for 
household  furniture,  clothing,  and  skins  for  beds,  is  deposi- 
ted around  according  to  their  ideas  of  propriety  and  conve- 
nience. Generally  not  more  than  one  family  occupies  a 
lodge.  These  are  the  finest  looking  Indians  I have  ever 
seen.  The  men  are  generally  tall  and  well  proportioned ; 


68 


A SABBATH  AMONG  THEM. 


the  women  are  trim,  and  less  pendulous  than  is  common 
among  Indian  women,  and  all  were  well  dressed  and  clean- 
ly. They  came  around  us  in  multitudes,  and  manifested 
great  curiosity  to  see  whatever  we  had.  I did  not  know 
why,  but  my  boots  were  particularly  examined  ; probably 
they  had  never  seen  any  before,  as  moccasons  are  worn, 
not  only  by  Indians,  but  also  by* traders  and  hunters. 

Sabbath,  26th.  The  caravan  moved  on  a little  way  to 
the  crossing  place  of  the  Platte,  near  Larama’s  fork  in  the 
Black  Hills,  and  encamped  for  the  day.  This  gave  us  an 
opportunity  for  reading  and  devotion.  Some  of  the  Ogal- 
lallahs  came  to  my  tent  while  I w^as  reading  the  Bible,  and 
observed  me  attentively,  as  though  enquiring  the  reason 
why  I was  differently  employed  from  others.  I endeavored 
to  make  them  understand  by  the  language  of  signs,  that  I 
was  reading  the  book  of  God,  which  teaches  us  how  to  wor- 
ship him.  After  spending  some  time  in  teaching  them  to 
read,  and  how  God  is  to  be  worshiped,  I sung  a hymn, 
which  greatly  interested  them.  They  took  me  by  the  hand, 
and  the  expression  of  their  countenance  seemed  to  say,  we 
want  to  know  what  all  this  means.  My  spirit  was  pained 
within  me,  and  I anxiously  desired  to  understand  their  lan- 
guage, that  I might  tell  them  about  Christ,  the  only  Savior. 
The  enquiry  arose  forcibly  in  my  mind,  why  will  not  some 
of  the  many  Christian  young  men  of  the  east,  exercise  so 
much  self-denial,  as  to  come  and  teach  them  the  way  of  sal- 
vation ? In  such  a labor  what  Christian  would  not  glory  ? 
And  if  there  should  be  any  tribulations  attendant  on  the  enter- 
prise, would  they  not,  like  St.  Paul,  glory  in  tribulations  ? 

At  evening,  we  passed  over  the  Platte,  and  went  a mile 
and  a half  up  to  the  fort  of  the  Black  Hills,  and  encamped 
near  the  fort  in  our  usual  form. 


BLACK  HILLS. 


69 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Black  Hills — day  of  indulgence — buffalo  dance — the  desire  of  Indians 
for  instruction — met  the  chiefs  in  council — re-commenced  our  jour- 
ney for  rendezvous — anthracite  coal — species  of  wormwood — Red 
Bute — traces  of  grizzly  bears — geology — Rock  Independence — 
Rocky  Mountains — perpetual  snow — valley  through  the  mountains 
— “ thunder  spirits”  gone — an  alarm — waters  of  the  Colorado. 

The  Black  Hills  do  not  derive  their  name  from  any  thing 
peculiar  in  the  color  of  the  soil  and  rocks  of  which  they  are 
composed,  but  are  so  called  from  being  covered  with  shrubby 
cedars,  which  give  them  a dark  appearance  when  seen  at 
a distance.  The  alluvial  soil  upon  the  rivers  and  in  the 
valleys  is  very  good,  but  upon  the  higher  lands  and  hills, 
it  is  thin  and  rather  barren,  and  in  many  parts  full  of  stones, 
which  are  worn  smooth  by  the  action  of  water,  and  are  of 
various  kinds  and  forms.  One  spur  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains is  seen  from  this  place,  which  is  forty  or  fifty  miles 
distant,  and  is  probably  five  thousand  feet  high. 

At  this  place  the  caravan  halted,  and  according  to  imme- 
morial usage,  the  men  were  allowed  a “ day  of  indulgence,’5 
as  it  is  called,  in  which  they  drink  ardent  spirits  as  much  as 
they  please,  and  conduct  as  they  choose.  Not  unfrequently 
the  day  terminates  with  a catastrophe  of  some  kind,  and 
to-day  one  of  the  company  shot  another  with  the  full  inten- 
tion to  have  killed  him.  The  ball  entered  the  back,  and 
came  out  at  the  side.  The  wounded  man  exclaimed,  “ I am 
a dead  man  but  after  a pause,  said,  “ No,  I am  not  hurt.” 

The  other  immediately  seized  a rifle  to  finish  the  work,  but 

7* 


70 


BUFFALO  DANCE. 


was  prevented  by  the  bystanders,  who  wrested  it  from  him 
and  discharged  it  into  the  air. 

July  28th.  The  day  of  indulgence  being  past,  a quiet 
day  succeeded.  The  exhilaration  was  followed  by  conse- 
quent relaxation,  and  the  tide  of  spirits  which  arose  so  high 
yesterday,  ebbed  to-day  proportionally  low.  The  men  were 
seen  lounging  about  in  listless  idleness,  and  could  scarcely 
be  roused  to  the  business  of  making  repairs  and  arrange- 
ments for  the  long  journey  yet  before  us.  The  Indians 
were  active,  and  manifested  a disposition  to  be  sociable  and 
kind,  and  also  to  open  a trade  with  us  in  various  articles, 
such  as  moccasons,  belts,  and  dressed  skins ; and  desired 
in  return,  knives,  awls,  combs,  vermilion,  &c. 

Although  the  nights  were  cool,  yet  the  thermometer  stood 
in  the  middle  of  the  day  at  98°,  but  the  heat  was  relieved 
by  the  usual  prairie  winds. 

On  the  29th,  the  Ogallallah  Indians  wTho  accompanied  us, 
had  a buffalo  and  a dog  dance,  the  real  object  of  which  I 
could  not  satisfactorily  ascertain.  Whether  it  was  from 
some  superstitious  notion  that  their  success  in  hunting  de- 
pended on  these  rites,  or  whether  the  custom  originated  in 
the  gratitude  of  their  hearts  for  past  successes,  or  more  pro- 
bably as  an  amusement,  or  neither,  I cannot  tell.  I wit- 
nessed the  first  mentioned  ceremony,  and  w^as  content  to 
dispense  with  the  latter.  In  the  buffalo  dance,  a large 
number  of  young  men,  dressed  with  the  skins  of  the  neck 
and  head  of  buffalos  with  their  horns  on,  moved  round  in  a 
dancing  march.  They  shook  their  heads,  imitated  the  low 
bellowing  of  the  buffalo,  wheeled,  and  jumped.  At  the  same 
time  men  and  women  sung  a song,  accompanied  with  the 
beating  of  a sort  of  drum.  I cannot  say  I was  much  amused  to 
see  how  wrell  they  could  imitate  brute  beasts,  while  ignorant 


THE  0GALL  ALLAKS . 


71 


of  God  and  salvation.  The  impressive  enquiry  was  con- 
stantly on  my  mind,  what  will  become  of  their  immortal 
spirits  ? Rational  men  imitating  beasts,  and  old  gray-head- 
ed men  marshaling  the  dance  ! and  enlightened  white  men 
encouraging  it  by  giving  them  intoxicating  spirits,  as  a re-  - 
ward  for  their  good  performance.  I soon  retired,  and  was 
pleased  to  find  that  only  a small  number  of  the  Indians  took 
any  part  in  the  dance. 

An  Indian  whom  I attempted  to  teach  last  Sabbath,  came 
to  me  again  to-day,  and  manifested  that  he  wished  me  to 
instruct  him.  I endeavored  to  communicate  to  his  mind 
some  ideas  of  God,  and  sang  the  hymn,  “ Watchman,  tell 
us  of  the  night.”  He  and  those  with  him,  shook  hands  with 
me  as  a token  of  their  satisfaction,  and  l§ft  me.  He  soon 
returned,  however,  bringing  others,  that  they  too,  might 
hear  what  he  had  heard  with  so  much  apparent  pleasure, 
and  they  again  shook  hands  with  me.  This  was  several 
times  repeated.  These  Indians  appear  not  only  friendly  to 
white  men,  but  kind  in  their  intercourse  with  each  other, 
and  in  no  instance  did  I witness  any  quarrels  among  them. 
Their  minds  are  uncommonly  gifted  and  noble,  their  per- 
sons are  finely  formed,  and  many  of  them  are  truly  “ na- 
ture’s grenadiers.”  The  women  are  graceful,  and  their 
voices  are  soft  and  expressive.  I was  agreeably  surprised 
to  see  tall  young  chiefs,  well  dressed  in  their  own  mode, 
walking  arm  in  arm  with  their  ladies.  This  is  what  I 
had  not  expected  to  see  among  those  whom  we  term' 

“ savages.”  It  is  true  that  they  are  heathen,  in  all  the 
guilt  of  sin  and  destitute  of  the  knowledge  of  God,  and 
the  hopes  of  the  gospel,  but  in  politeness  and  decency,  as 
well  as  in  many  other  respects,  they  are  very  unlike 
the  frontier  Indians,  who  have  been  corrupted  and  degra- 


72 


COUNCIL  WITH  THE  SIOUX. 

# 

ded  by  their  acquaintance  with  ardent  spirits,  and  wicked 
white  men. 

On  the  30th,  we  met  in  council  with  the  chiefs  of  this 
tribe,  to  lay  before  them  the  object  of  our  tour,  and  to  know 
if  they  would  wish  to  have  missionaries  sent  among  them 
to  teach  them  to  read  and  write,  and  especially  how  to 
worship  God.  They  expressed  much  satisfaction  with  the 
proposal,  and  said  they  would  do  all  they  could  to  make 
their  condition  comfortable.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  that 
this  community  of  the  Sioux  would  be  a promising  field  for 
laborers.  They  are  inquisitive,  and  their  language  is  dis- 
tinct and  sonorous. 

On  the  31st,  thermometer  stood  at  81°. 

August  1st.  At  half  past  eight  in  the  morning,  we  re- 
commenced our  journey,  and  the  next  point  to  which  we 
direct  our  course  is  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where 
the  general  rendezvous  will  be  held.  Our  wagons  were 
left  at  the  fort  of  the  Black  Hills,  and  all  our  goods  were 
packed  upon  mules.  Several  of  our  company  went  out  into 
various  parts  of  this  country  to  hunt  and  trap,  but  as  many 
more  joined  us  for  the  mountains,  so  that  our  number  is  not 
diminished.  Mr.  Fontenelle  stopped  at  the  fort,  and  Mr. 
Fitz  Patrick  took  his  place  in  charge  of  the  caravan.  We 
had  received  during  our  journey  to  this  place,  many  kind 
attentions  from  Mr.  F.  as  well  as  the  privilege  of  traveling 
under  his  protection,  for  which  we  offered  him  a remunera- 
tion, but  he  declined  it,  saying,  “ If  any  one  is  indebted, 
it  is  myself,  for  you  have  saved  my  life,  and  the  lives  of  my 
men.”  We  shall  gratefully  remember  their  kindness. 

Sabbath,  2nd.  I enjoyed  some  opportunities  for  devo- 
tional exercises,  but  felt  the  loss  of  the  privileges  of  God’s 
house. 


ANTHRACITE  COAL. 


73 


We  found  on  the  3d  but  very  little  grass  for  our  horses 
and  mules,  owing  to  three  causes  ; the  sterility  of  the  soil, 
the  proximity  of  the  snow-topped  mountains,  and  the  gra- 
zing of  numerous  herds  of  buffalos  and  antelopes.  To 
save  distance  in  following  the  bends  of  the  river,  we  passed 
to-day  over  rough  and  somewhat  dangerous  precipices.  I 
had  found,  before  I arrived  at  the  Black  Hills,  some  loose 
specimens  of  anthracite  coal  on  the  banks  of  streams,  but 
to-day  I found  a regular  “ cropping  out ” of  coal,  the  same 
to  all  appearances  as  I have  seen  in  the  coal  basins  of  Penn- 
sylvania. The  existence  of  a coal  basin  here  is  also  con- 
firmed by  indications  of  iron  ore.  Certainly  an  invaluable 
substance,  should  it  prove  abundant,  to  the  future  inhabi- 
tants of  a country  so  destitute  of  other  fuel.  This  was  the 
first  discovery  of  coal  in  this  region.  A range  of  mountains, 
a spur  of  which  is  seen  from  Larama’s  fork  in  the  Black 
Hills,  runs  parallel  with  the  river,  ten  or  fifteen  miles  dis- 
tant, and  some  of  the  peaks  are  very  high. 

August  4th.  The  country  was  more  level  and  fertile. 
I discovered  more  anthracite,  indicating  large  quantities  ; 
also,  in  one  place,  yellow  sand  stone  of  remarkably  fine 
texture.  It  undoubtedly  would  answer  an  excellent  pur- 
pose for  polishing  metals.  A species  of  wormwood  grows 
in  great  quantities  in  this  region,  where  the  soil  is  gravelly 
and  barren.  Some  of  it  grows  eight  or  ten  feet  high,  and 
four  or  five  inches  in  diameter,  and  is  an  obstruction  to  trav- 
eling. It  is  generally  called  wild  sage.  Scarcely  any 
animal  will  taste  it  unless  compelled  by  extreme  hunger. 
The  prairie  hen,  however,  crops  the  buds  or  leaves,  which 
renders  it  flesh  bitter  and  unpalatable  for  food.  I saw  some 
granite  to-day  of  a dark  gray  color,  like  the  granite  in  parts 
of  the  Atlantic  states.  What  I had  seen  before  in  boulders 


74 


GRIZZLY  BEARS. 


was  of  the  red  cast,  like  that  which  is  found  about  Lake 
Superior. 

On  the  5th,  we  arose  at  the  first  breaking  of  the  day  and 
proceeded  on  our  route,  making  forced  marches  through 
this  barren  region.  Encamped  towards  night  at  a place 
called  the  Red  Bute,  which  is  a high  bluff  of  land,  resem- 
bling red  ochre  in  color,  but  composed  of  clay  somewhat 
indurated.  This  is  a central  place  for  Indians  traveling 
east  or  west,  north,  or  south.  Here  the  north-west  branch 
of  the  Platte,  along  which  we  have  been  traveling,  comes 
from  a southern  direction,  the  head  of  wrhich  is  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant.  From  the  Red  Bute  we 
pass  over  to  the  Sweetwater,  a branch  of  the  Platte,  which 
comes  from  the  west.  We  saw  to-day  tracks  of  grizzly 
bears,  which  were  perfectly  fresh,  and  were  indicative  of 
their  formidable  size  and  strength.  One  with  two  large 
cubs  passed  out  of  some  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes  near 
the  river,  as  we  proceeded  abound  to  an  open  spot  of  ground 
for  an  encamping  place.  Lieut.  S.  of  the  dragoons,  a man 
of  undoubted  veracity,  told  me  he  saw  several  buffalos  pass- 
ing near  some  bushes,  where  a grizzly  bear  lay  concealed, 
and  the  bear  with  one  stroke  tore  three  ribs  from  a buffalo 
and  laid  it  dead.  It  has  been  said,  if  you  meet  one  of  these 
bears,  you  must  either  kill  him,  or  be  killed  ; but  this  is  not 
true,  unless  you  come  upon  them  suddenly,  or  wound  them. 
If  you  let  them  pass  off  unmolested,  they  will,  in  most  cases, 
withdraw,  showing  that  the  fear  of  man  is  upon  them  as 
well  as  upon  other  beasts. 

August  6th.  The  geology  of  these  regions  is  becoming 
more  interesting,  as  we  approach  the  mountains.  I saw 
to-day,  not  only  granite  in  situ , but  also  a quantity  of  the  most 
beautiful  serpentine  I ever  beheld..  It  was  semi-transparent 


ROCK  INDEPENDENCE, 


75 


and  of  a deep  green  hue,  very  much  resembling  specimens 
of  emerald  which  I saw  in  the  mineralogical  cabinet  at 
New  Haven.  I regretted  the  necessity  which  a long  jour- 
ney,  yet  before  me,  imposed  of  passing  by  opportunities  for 
making  collections. 

Passed  Rock  Independence,  on  the  7th.  This  is  the  first 
massive  rock  of  that  stupendous  chain  of  mountains,  which 
divides  North  America,  and  forms,  together  with  its  barrens 
on  each  side,  a natural  division.  This  rock  takes  its  name 
from  the  circumstance  of  a company  of  fur  traders  suspend- 
ing their  journey,  and  here  observing,  in  due  form,  the  an- 
niversary of  our  national  freedom.  It  is  an  immensely  huge 
rock  of  solid  granite,  entirely  bare  and  covering  several 
acres.  Advancing  a little  distance,  we  came  to  a stream 
of  no  inconsiderable  size,  which  has  its  origin  in  the  moun- 
tains, and  to  which  the  name  of  Sweetwater  has  been 
given  on  account  of  its  purity.  We  followed  up  the  course 
of  this  river  for  several  days.  In  one  place  it  passes  a 
small  branch  of  the  mountains,  through  a narrow  chasm 
only  thirty  or  forty  feet  wide,  and  more  than  three  hundred 
feet  high.  The  caravan  passed  around  the  point  of  this 
mountain,  and  to  obtain  a better  prospect  of  this  natural 
curiosity,  I left  them  and  rode  to  it,  A deep-toned  roar 
is  heard  as  the  river  dashes  its  way  through  the  rocky  pas- 
sage. The  sight  is  soon  intercepted  by  its  winding  course, 
and  the  darkness  caused  by  the  narrowness  and  deepness 
of  the  avenue. 

Passed  to-day,  several  small  lakes  of  erystalized  epsom 
salt,  from  which  the  water  in  the  drouth  of  summer  is 
evaporated.  I rode  into  one  of  them  to  examine  the  quality 
and  depth,  but  finding  my  horse,  sinking  as  in  quicksand,  I 
was  glad  to  make  a safe  retreat.  Whatever  may  be  beneath, 


76 


APPROACH  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


whether  salt  in  a less  solid  state  than  on  the  surface,  or 
quicksand,  yet  large  quantities  of  good  quality  might  be 
easily  collected. 

The  mountains  are  indeed  rocky  mountains.  They  are 
rocks  heaped  upon  rocks,  with  no  vegetation,  excepting  a 
few  cedars  growing  out  of  the  crevices  near  their  base. 
Their  tops  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  which  are  seen 
on  our  left  and  before  us.  As  we  advanced,  the  atmosphere 
was  increasingly  more  chilling  through  the  night  and  most 
of  the  day,  excepting  the  middle,  which  to-day  was  very 
warm  ; the  thermometer  standing  at  84°. 

Sabbath,  9th.  I endeavored  to  supply  the  absence  of  the 
privileges  of  the  sanctuary  and  its  ordinances,  as  well  as  I 
could  by  reading,  and  recalling  to  mind  portions  of  the 
scriptures,  hymns,  and  the  doctrines  of  our  excellent,  but 
neglected  catechism.  One  needs  to  be  on  heathen  ground 
to  realize  the  solitariness  of  absence  from  the  social  wor- 
ship, where 

“ The  cheerful  songs  and  solemn  tows 
Make  their  communion  sweet.” 

On  the  10th,  cold  winds  were  felt  from  the  snow-topped 
mountains  to  an  uncomfortable  degree.  The  passage 
through  these  mountains  is  in  a valley,  so  gradual  in  the 
ascent  and  descent,  that  I should  not  have  known  that  we 
were  passing  them,  had  it  not  been  that  as  we  advanced  the 
atmosphere  gradually  became  cooler,  and  at  length  we  saw 
the  perpetual  snows  upon  our  right  hand  amd  upon  our  left, 
elevated  many  thousand  feet  above  us — in  some  places  ten 
thousand.  The  highest  part  of  these  mountains  are  found 
by  measurement,  to  be  eighteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  This  valley  was  not  discovered  until  some 
years  since.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  more  than  twenty 


THUNDER  SPIRITS  DEPARTED. 


77 


years  ago,  went  near  but  did  not  find  it,  though  in  search 
of  some  favorable  passage.  It  varies  in  width  from  three 
to  fifteen  miles ; and  following  its  course,  the  distance 
through  the  mountains  is  about  eighty  miles,  or  four  days’ 
journey.  Though  there  are  some  elevations  and  depres- 
sions in  this  valley,  yet  comparatively  speaking,  it  is  level. 
There  would  be  no  difficulty  in  the  way  of  constructing  a 
rail  road  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ocean ; and  prob- 
ably the  time  may  not  be  very  far  distant,  when  trips  will 
be  made  across  the  continent,  as  they  have  been  made  to 
the  Niagara  Falls,  to  see  nature’s  wonders.  In  passing  the 
Black  Hills  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  we  heard  none  of  those 
“ successive  reports  resembling  the  discharge  of  several 
pieces  of  artillery,”  mentioned  by  some  authors  as  common 
“ in  the  most  calm  and  serene  weather,  at  all  times  of  the 
day  or  night nor  did  we  witness  “ lightning  and  thunder, 
pealing  from  clouds  gathering  round  the  summits  of  the  hills” 
or  mountains.  “ The  thunder  spirits,  who  fabricate  storms 
and  tempests,”  appear  to  have  closed  their  labors,  and  the 
Indian  tribes  no  longer  “ hang  offerings  on  the  trees  to  pro- 
pitiate the  invisible  lords  of  the  mountains.” 

The  geology  presents  some  variety ; for  while  the  main 
ridge  of  the  mountains  is  granite,  yet  to-day  parallel  ridges 
of  red  secondary  Sandstone  have  abounded.  They  appear 
to  have  been  affected  by  heat ; and  some  elevating  force 
has  broken  them  into  dyke-like  ridges  at  different  distances 
from  each  other,  running  from  east  north-east  to  west  south- 
west. The  strata  are  mostly  vertical,  but  some  have  a 
slight  dip  to  the  south. 

We  had  an  alarm,  while  we  were  encamped  for  noon, 
and  the  men  were  called  to  arms.  They  all  rushed  forth 

full  of  courage,  rather  stimulated  than  appalled  by  danger, 

8 


78 


BIG  SANDY  RIVER. 


Only  one  Indian  made  his  appearance  upon  the  hill,  at  the 
foot  of  which  we  were  encamped.  This  was  taken  as  an 
indication  that  others  were  near,  which  was  the  fact ; but 
he  and  they  retreated. 

August  11th.  The  last  night  was  very  cold — we  had  a 
heavy  frost  with  ice.  A little  before  sunrise,  the  thermo- 
meter stood  at  24°.  Our  early  morning  ride  was  not  very 
comfortable  for  myself,  and  less  so  for  some  of  our  men 
who  were  not  furnished  with  over-coats.  Our  horses  and 
mules  began  to  show  that  constant  labor,  without  sufficient 
food,  was  not  favorable  to  strength,  and  some  of  them  failed. 
To-day  we  came  to  the  Big  Sandy  river,  one  of  the  upper 
branches  of  the  Colorado,  which  empties  into  the  gulf  of 
California.  Along  its  banks  are  some  Norway  and  pitch 
pine,  and  a very  few  small  white  pines,  and  clumps  of  com- 
mon poplar.  In  some  of  the  low  vales,  there  were  beautiful 
little  fresh  roses,  which  bloomed  amidst  the  desolations 
around.  “ How  ornamental  are  the  works  of  nature  ! She 
seems  to  decorate  them  all,  as  if  each  spot  was  a garden,  in 
which  God  might  perchance  walk,  as  once  in  Eden.” 


THE  RENDEZVOUS. 


79 


CHAPTER  V. 

Arrive  at  rendezvous — trappers  and  hunters — four  Indian  nations — 
Flatheads  and  Nez  Perces,  no  reason  why  so  called — surgical  ope- 

rations — an  interview  with  the  Flathead  and  Nez  Perce  chiefs 

their  anxiety  for  religious  instruction — return  of  Doct.  Whitman — 
Shoshones  and  Utaws — mountain  life. 

After  stopping  for  the  night  upon  the  New  Fork,  a . 
branch  of  Green  river,  we  arose  on  the  12th,  at  the  first 
breaking  of  the  day,  and  continued  our  forced  marches.  Al- 
though we  were  emerging  from  the  mountains,  yet  peaks 
covered  with  perpetual  snow  were  seen  in  almost  every  di- 
rection, and  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  uncomfortably, 
cold.  I found  to-day  some  beautiful  calcedony,  of  which 
I took  a specimen,  and  also  green  stone,  quartz,  and  trap 
in  large  quantities.  In  the  afternoon,  we  came  to  the  Green 
river,  a branch  of  the  Colorado,  in  latitude  42°,  where  the 
caravan  hold  their  rendezvous.  This  is  in  a widely  extended 
valley,  which  is  pleasant,  with  a soil  sufficiently  fertile  for 
cultivation,  if  the  climate  was  not  so  cold.  Like  the  coun- 
try we  have  passed  through,  it  is  almost  entirely  prairie, 
with  some  woods  skirting  the  streams  of  water. 

The  American  Fur  Company  have  between  two  and  three 
hundred  men  constantly  in  and  about  the  mountains,  enga- 
ged in  trading,  hunting  and  trapping.  These  all  assemble 
at  rendezvous  upon  the  arrival  of  the  caravan,  bring  in  their 
furs,  and  take  new  supplies  for  the  coming  year,  of  clothing, 
ammunition,  and  goods  for  trade  with  the  Indians.  But  few  of 


80 


SURGICAL  OPERATIONS. 


these  men  ever  return  to  their  country  and  friends.  Most  of 
them  are  constantly  in  debt  to  the  company,  and  are  unwil- 
ling to  return  without  a fortune  ; and  year  after  year  passes 
away,  while  they  are  hoping  in  vain  for  better  success. 

Here  were  assembled  many  Indians  belonging  to  four 
different  nations  ; the  Utaws,  Shoshones,  Nez  Perces,  and 
Flatheads,  who  were  waiting  for  the  caravan,  to  exchange 
furs,  horses,  and  dressed  skins,  for  various  articles  of  mer- 
chandise. I was  disappointed  to  see  nothing  peculiar  in 
the  Flathead  Indians  to  give  them  their  name.  Who  gave 
them  this  name,  or  for  what  reason,  is  not  known.  Some 
suppose  it  was  given  them  in  derision  for  not  flattening  their 
heads,  as  the  Chenooks  and  some  other  nations  do,  near  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific.  It  may  be  so,  but  how  will  those  who 
indulge  this  imagination,  account  for  the  Nez  Perces  being 
so  called,  since  they  do  not  pierce  their  noses  ? This  name 
could  not  be  given  them  in  derision,  because  those  near  the 
Pacific,  who  flatten  their  heads,  also  pierce  their  noses. 
That  those  names  have  been  given  by  white  men,  is  evi- 
dent, since  they  do  not  call  each  other  by  the  names  which 
signify  either  flat  head  or  pierced  nose. 

While  we  continued  in  this  place,  Doct.  Whitman  was 
called  to  perform  some  very  important  surgical  operations. 
He  extracted  an  iron  arrow,  three  inches  long,  from  the 
back  of  Capt.  Bridger,  which  was  received  in  a skirmish, 
three  years  before,  with  the  Blackfeet  Indians.  It  wras  a 
difficult  operation,  because  the  arrow  was  hooked  at  the 
point  by  striking  a large  bone,  and  a cartilaginous  substance 
had  grown  around  it.  The  Doctor  pursued  the  operation 
with  great  self-possession  and  perseverance  ; and  his  pa- 
tient manifested  equal  firmness.  The  Indians  looked  on 
meanwhile,  with  countenances  indicating  wonder,  and  in 


AN  INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  CHIEFS. 


81 


their  own  peculiar  manner  expressed  great  astonishment 
when  it  was  extracted.  The  Doctor  also  extracted  another 
arrow  from  the  shoulder  of  one  of  the  hunters,  which  had 
been  there  two  years  and  a half.  His  reputation  becoming 
favorably  established,  calls  for  medical  and  surgical  aid 
were  almost  incessant. 

After  spending  a few  days  in  collecting  and  digesting  in- 
formation in  regard  to  this  country  and  the  condition  of  the 
people,  we  had  an  interesting  interview  with  the  chiefs  of 
the  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads,  and  laid  before  them  the  ob- 
ject of  our  appointment,  and  explained  to  them  the  benevo- 
lent desires  of  Christians  concerning  them.  We  then  en- 
quired whether  they  wished  to  have  teachers  come  among 
them  and  instruct  them  in  the  knowledge  of  God,  his  wor- 
ship, and  the  way  to  be  saved ; and  what  they  would  do  to 
aid  them  in  their  labors.  The  oldest  chief  of  the  Flatheads 
arose,  and  said,  “ he  was  old,  and  did  not  expect  to  know 
much  more ; he  was  deaf,  and  could  not  hear,  but  his  heart 
was  made  glad,  very  glad,  to  see  what  he  had  never  seen 
before,  a man  near  to  God,”  (meaning  a minister  of  the  gos- 
pel.) Next  arose  Insala,  the  most  influential  chief  among 
the  Flathead  nation,  and  said,  “ he  had  heard,  a man  near 
to  God  was  coming  to  visit  them,  and  he,  with  some  of  his 
people,  together  with  some  white  men,  went  out  three  days’ 
journey  to  meet  him,  but  missed  us.  A war  party  of  Crow 
Indians  came  upon  them,  and  took  away  some  of  their  hor- 
ses, and  one  from  him  which  he  greatly  loved,  but  now  he; 
forgets  all,  his  heart  is  made  so  glad  to  see  a man  near  to 
God.”  There  was  a short  battle,  but  no  lives  were  lost. 

The  first  chief  of  the  Nez  Perces,  Tai-quin-su-watish, 
arose,  and  said;  “ he  had  heard  from  white  men  a little 

about  God,  which  had  only  gone  into  his  ears  ; he  wished  to  , 

8* 


82 


DR.  WHITMAN’S  PROPOSAL. 


know  enough  to  have  it  go  down  into  his  heart,  to  influence  his 
life,  and  to  teach  his  people.”  Others  spoke  to  the  same  im- 
port, and  they  all  made  as  many  promises  as  we  could  desire. 

The  Nez  Perces  and  Flathead  Indians  present  a promi- 
sing field  for  missionary  labor,  which  is  white  for  the  har- 
vest, and  the  indications  of  divine  providence  in  regard  to 
it  are  plain,  by  their  anxiety  to  obtain  Christian  knowledge. 
Taking  the  various  circumstances  under  deliberate  and 
prayerful  consideration,  in  regard  to  these  Indians,  we  came 
to  the  conclusion,  that,  though  many  other  important  sta- 
tions might  be  found,  this  would  be  one.  So  desirable  did 
this  object  appear,  that  Dr.  Whitman  proposed  to  return 
with  the  caravan,  and  obtain  associates  to  come  out  with 
him  the  next  year,  with  the  then  returning  caravan,  and  es- 
tablish a mission  among  these  people,  and  by  so  doing,  save 
at  least  a year,  in  bringingthe  gospel  among  them.  In  view 
of  the  importance  of  the  object,  I readily  consented  to  the 
proposal,  and  to  go  alone  with  the  Indians  the  remainder 
of  my  exploring  tour.  Dr.  Whitman,  on  further  considera- 
tion, felt  some  misgivings  about  leaving  me,  lest,  if  any  ca- 
lamity should  befall  me,  he  should  be  blamed  by  the  Chris- 
tian public.  It  was  my  desire  that  no  disquietude  should  be 
felt  for  me,  for  we  could  not  go  safely  together  without  di- 
vine protection,  and  with  it  I was  secure  in  any  situation. 
This  confidence  inspired  me  with  all  the  courage  I needed, 
and  composed  my  mind  in  regard  to  coming  dangers,  as  it 
had  sustained  me  under  those  that  were  past. 

Met  with  the  chiefs  again  by  appointment,  and  I stated  to 
them  the  contemplated  return  of  Doctor  Whitman.  They 
were  much  pleased,  and  promised  to  assist  me,  and  to  send 
a convoy  with  me  from  their  country  to  Fort  Walla  Walla, 
on  the  Columbia  river.  They  selected  one  of  their  princi- 


SHOSHONES. 


83 


pal  young  men  for  my  particular  assistant,  as  long  as  I 
should  have  need  of  him,  who  was  called  Kentuc ; and  I 
engaged  a voyageur , who  understood  English,  and  also  the 
Nez  Perce  language  sufficiently  well  to  interpret  common 
business,  and  some  of  the  plain  truths  of  our  holy  religion, 
to  go  with  me  while  I should  continue  with  these  tribes. 

We  did  not  call  together  the  chiefs  of  the  Shoshones  and 
Utaws,  to  propose  the  subject  of  missions  among  them,  lest 
we  should  excite  expectations  which  would  not  soon  be  ful- 
filled. We  were  the  more  cautious  upon  this  subject,  be- 
cause it  is  difficult  to  make  an  Indian  understand  the  dif- 
ference between  a proposal  and  a promise.  The  Shoshones 
are  a very  numerous  nation,  and  appear  friendly.  They 
are  probably  the  most  destitute  of  the  necessaries  of  life  of 
any  Indians  west  of  the  mountains.  Their  country  lies 
south-west  of  the  south-east  branch  of  the  Columbia,  and  is 
said  to  be  the  most  barren  of  any  part  of  the  country  in 
these  western  regions.  They  are  often  called  Snakes  and 
Root  Diggers,  from  being  driven  to  these  resorts  to  sustain 
life  ; and  parts  of  the  year  they  suffer  greatly  from  hunger 
and  cold.  They  are  more  squalid  than  any  Indians  I have 
seen ; but  their  poverty  does  not  lessen  their  need  of  salva- 
tion through  Christ.  The  Utaws  are  decent  in  appearance, 
and  their  country,  which  is  toward  Santa  Fe,  is  said  to  be 
tolerably  good. 

A few  days  after  our  arrival  at  the  place  of  rendezvous, 
and  when  all  the  mountain  men  had  assembled,  another 
day  of  indulgence  was  granted  to  them,  in  which  all  restraint 
was  laid  aside.  These  days  are  the  climax  of  the  hunter’s 
happiness.  I will  relate  an  occurrence  which  took  place 
near  evening,  as  a specimen  of  mountain  life.  A hunter, 
who  goes  technically  by  the  name  of  the  great  bully  of  the 


84 


MOUNTAIN  LITE. 


mountains,  mounted  his  horse  with  a loaded  rifle,  and  chal- 
lenged, any  Frenchman,  American,  Spaniard,  or  Dutchman, 
to  fight  him  in  single  combat.  Kit  Carson,  an  American, 
told  him  if  he  wished  to  die,  he  would  accept  the  challenge. 
Shunar  defied  him.  C.  mounted  his  horse,  and  with  a load- 
ed pistol,  rushed  into  close  contact,  and  both  almost  at  the 
same  instant  fired.  C’s  ball  entered  S’s  hand,  came  out  at 
the  wrist,  and  passed  through  the  arm  above  the  elbow. 
Shunar'*  s ball  passed  over  the  head  of  Carson ; and  while 
he  went  for  another  pistol,  Shunar  begged  that  his  life  might 
be  spared.  Such  scenes,  sometimes  from  passion,  and  some- 
times for  amusement,  make  the  pastime  of  their  wild  and 
wandering  life.  They  appear  to  have  sought  for  a place 
where,  as  they  would  say,  human  nature  is  not  oppressed 
by  the  tyranny  of  religion,  and  pleasure  is  not  awed  by  the 
frown  of  virtue.  The  fruits  are  visible  in  all  the  varied 
forms  to  which  human  nature,  without  the  restraints  of  civil 
government,  and  cultivated  and  polished  society,  may  be 
supposed  to  yield.  In  the  absence  of  all  those  motives, 
which  they  would  feel  in  moral  and  religious  society,  re- 
finement, pride,  a sense  of  the  worth  of  character,  and  even 
conscience,  give  place  to  unrestrained  dissoluteness.  Their 
toils  and  privations  are  so  great,  that  they  more  readily  com- 
pensate themselves  by  plunging  into  such  excesses,  as  in 
their  mistaken  judgment  of  things,  seem  most  adapted  to  give 
them  pleasure.  They  disdain  the  common-place  phrases  of 
profanity  which  prevail  among  the  impious  vulgar  in  civil- 
ized countries,  and  have  many  set  phrases,  which  they  ap- 
pear to  have  manufactured  among  themselves,  and  which, 
in  their  imprecations,  they  bring  into  almost  every  sentence 
and  on  all  occasions.  By  varying  the  tones  of  their  voices, 
they  make  them  expressive  of  joy,  hope,  grief,  and  anger. 


DEMORALIZING  INFLUENCES. 


85 


In  their  broils  among  themselves,  which  do  not  happen  every 
day,  they  would  not  be  ungenerous.  They  would  see  “ fair 
play,”  and  would  “ spare  the  last  eye  and  would  not  tole- 
rate murder,  unless  drunkenness  or  great  provocation  could 
be  pleaded  in  extenuation. 

Their  demoralizing  influence  with  the  Indians  has  been 
lamentable,  and  they  have  practiced  impositions  upon  them, 
in  all  the  ways  that  sinful  propensities  dictate.  It  is  said 
they  have  sold  them  packs  of  cards  at  high  prices,  calling 
them  the  Bible  ; and  have  told  them,  if  they  should  refuse 
to  give  white  men  wives,  God  would  be  angry  with  them 
and  punish  them  eternally  : and  on  almost  any  occasion 
when  their  wishes  have  been  resisted,  they  have  threatened 
them  with  the  wrath  of  God.  If  these  things  are  true  in 
many  instances,  yet  from  personal  observation,  I should  be- 
lieve, their  more  common  mode  of  accomplishing  their  wishes 
has  been  by  flattery  and  presents ; for  the  most  of  them 
squander  away  their  wages  in  ornaments  for  their  women 
and  children. 

The  Indians,  with  whom  I was  to  travel,  having  appoint- 
ed the  21st  to  commence  the  journey  for  their  country,  a 
few  days  were  occupied  in  writing  to  my  family,  the  Ame- 
rican Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions,  and 
other  friends  ; and  also  in  making  preparations  for  my  jour- 
ney to  Walla  Walla.  While  we  continued  in  this  place, 
though  in  the  middle  of  the  day  it  was  warm,  yet  the  nights 
were  frosty,  and  ice  was  frequently  formed. 


86 


DEPARTURE  OF  DOCT.  WHITMAN. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Part  with  my  associate — arrive  at  head  waters  of  the  Columbia — kind- 
ness of  the  Indians — narrow  defile — geology — Jackson’s  Hole — wild 
flax — trappers  go  out  on  a hunt — mountain  prospect — Trois  Tetons 
— danger  from  affrighted  buffalo — Pierre’s  Hole — Volcanic  chasm — 
children  on  horseback — interesting  worship  with  the  Indians — bu- 
rial of  a child — scarcity  of  food — a timely  supply — Salmon  river — 
expected  battle — geological  observations — scene  of  mourning. 

August  21st,  commenced  our  journey  in  company  with 
Capt.  Bridger,  who  goes  with  about  fifty  men,  six  or  eight 
days’  journey  on  our  route.  Instead  of  going  down  on  the 
south-west  side  of  Lewis’  river,  we  concluded  to  take  our 
course  northerly  for  the  Trois  Tetons,  which  are  three  very 
high  mountains,  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  separated 
from  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  are  seen 
at  a very  great  distance  ; and  from  thence  to  Salmon  river. 
Went  only  about  three  miles  from  the  place  of  rendezvous, 
and  encamped. 

On  the  22d,  I parted  with  Doct.  Whitman,  who  returned 
with  the  caravan  to  the  United  States.  My  anxious  desire 
was,  that  the  Lord  would  go  with  him  and  make  his  way 
prosperous,  and  make  him  steadfast  to  the  object  of  his  re- 
turn, until  it  should  be  accomplished ; and  that,  with  next 
year’s  caravan,  he  might  come  with  associates  into  this 
promising  field,  and  with  them  reap  a plentiful  harvest. 
To-day  we  traveled  twenty  miles,  through  a somewhat  bar- 
ren country,  and  down  several  steep  descents,  and  arrived 
at  what  is  called  Jackson’s  Hole,  and  encamped  upon  a 


PUBLIC  WORSHIP. 


87 


small  stream  of  water,  one  of  the  upper  branches  of  the 
Columbia  river.  It  was  interesting  to  find  myself,  for  the 
first  time,  upon  the  waters  of  this  noble  river.  The  Indians 
were  very  attentive  to  all  my  wants — took  the  entire  care 
of  my  packed  animals,  cooking,  &c.  They  preserve  par- 
ticular order  in  their  movements.  The  first  chief  leads  the 
way,  the  next  chiefs  follow,  then  the  common  men,  and  after 
these  the  women  and  children.  The  place  assigned  me 
was  with  the  first  chief. 

Found  some  buffalo  to-day,  of  which  our  men  killed  a 
small  number.  These  furnished  a timely  supply,  as  our 
provisions  were  becoming  scarce.  The  principal  chief  of 
the  Flatheads  kindly  furnished  me  with  a horse  to  relieve 
mine. 

Sabbath,  23d.  Had  an  opportunity  for  rest  and  devo- 
tional exercises.  In  the  afternoon  we  had  public  worship 
with  those  of  the  company  who  understood  English.  The 
men  conducted  with  great  propriety,  and  listened  with  at- 
tention. I did  not  feel  any  disposition  to  upbraid  them  for 
their  sins,  but  endeavored  affectionately  to  show  them,  that 
they  are  unfit  for  heaven,  and  that  they  could  not  be  happy 
in  the  employments  of  that  holy  place,  unless  they  should 
first  experience  a great  moral  change  of  heart  by  the  grace 
of  God,  since  the  only  source  of  happiness  in  heaven  con- 
sists in  serving  and  glorifying  God  forever.  The  place  of 
our  encampment  was  such  as  would  naturally  fill  the  mind 
with  solemnity — just  above  a very  deep  and  narrow  defile 
which  we  had  to  pass,  called  by  the  hunters  Kenyan.  So 
high  were  the  mountains,  that  some  of  them  were  tipped 
with  perpetual  snow,  and  so  narrow  the  passage,  that  twi- 
light shades  obscured  the  view.  The  distance  through 
must  occupy  more  than  a half  day’s  journey. 


88 


A DANGEROUS  PASS GEOLOGY. 


Arose  very  early  on  the  24th,  and  commenced  our  way 
through  the  narrow  defile,  frequently  crossing  and  re-cross- 
ing a large  stream  of  water  which  flows  into  the  Snake  river. 
The  scenery  was  wild  and  in  many  parts  sublime — moun- 
tains of  rock,  almost  perpendicular,  shooting  their  heads  up 
into  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow,  and  in  one  place  project- 
ing over  our  path,  if  a zigzag  trail  can  be  called  a path. 
Often  we  had  to  pass  over  the  sides  of  mountains,  which  in- 
clined at  an  angle  of  45°  toward  the  stream  of  water  below, 
and  down  which  packed  mules  have  fallen,  and  been  dashed 
upon  the  rocks.  I endeavored  to  guide  my  Indian  horse  so 
cautiously  that  he  became  unmanageable,  being  resolved  to 
have  his  own  method  of  choosing  the  way.  I was  under  the 
necessity  of  dismounting  and  making  the  best  of  my  way. 
But  on  farther  acquaintance  with  Indian  horses,  I learned 
that  their  dashing  mode  of  going  ahead,  even  in  dangerous 
places,  was  preferable  to  the  most  cautious  management  of 
the  American. 

For  some  miles  there  was  Sandstone  in  ridges  at  equal 
distances  of  six  or  eight  rods  apart,  and  from  six  to  ten  feet 
wide,  rising  a little  above  the  surface  of  the  earth,  running 
from  south-east  to  north-west ; la)dng  in  strata  dipping  to 
the  west  at  an  angle  of  60°.  At  some  distance  I obser- 
ved a mountain  of  red  earth  of  similar  character,  excepting 
that  the  strata  dipped  to  the  east  at  an  angle  of  40°.  In 
one  place  where  the  strata  of  rocks  and  earth  were  in  waves 
nearly  horizontal,  a section  a few  rods  wide,  of  a wedge 
form,  had  its  waving  strata  in  a perpendicular  position,  as 
though  the  mountain  had  been  rent  asunder,  and  the  chasm 
filled  with  the  perpendicular  wedge.  A great  diversity  of 
the  strata  of  rocks  and  earth  prevailed  in  every  part.  To- 
wards the  last  of  the  way  through  this  narrow  defile,  we 


KINDNESS  OF  THE  NATIVES. 


89 


came  to  what  appeared  to  be  magnesian  limestone,  stratified, 
of  a brown  color,  and  very  hard.  As  we  passed  on  we  saw 
dark  brown  gypsum,  like  that  found  in  the  western  part  of 
the  state  of  New  York.  Here  for  some  distance  I was  much 
annoyed  with  the  strong  scent  of  sulphureted  hydrogen,  and 
soon  saw  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  under  the  bed  of  gyp- 
sum a large  sulphur  spring,  which  sent  up  more  than  thir- 
ty gallons  of  water  per  minute.  Around  this  spring  were 
large  quantities  of  incrusted  sulphur,  and  so  strongly  is  the 
water  saturated,  that  it  colors  the  water  of  the  river,  on  the 
side  next  to  the  spring,  a greenish  yellow,  for  more  than  a 
mile  below. 

We  passed  more  forests  to-day,  than  since  we  left  Rock 
Independence;  among  which  is  Norway  pine,  balsam  fir, 
double  spruce,  and  common  poplar — some  low  cedar  and 
flowering  raspberry,  and  various  species  of  shrubbery  which 
are  not  found  in  the  United  States.  The  Indians  were  very 
kind,  and  seemed  to  vie  with  each  other  to  see  who  could 
do  the  most  for  my  comfort,  so  that  they  more  than  antici- 
pated my  wants.  Two  little  girls  brought  me  a quart  of 
strawberries,  a rare  dish  for  this  season  of  the  year.  And 
an  Indian  brought  me  some  service  berries,  which  are  large, 
purple,  and  oblong,  of  a pleasantly  sweet  taste,  similar  to 
whortleberries.  We  encamped  upon  a fertile  plain,  sur- 
rounded by  mountains,  where  three  years  before  three  men 
were  killed  by  a small  war  party  of  Blackfeet  Indians. 
There  were  seven  of  the  hunters,  and  when  they  saw  the 
Blackfeet,  they  all  fled  in  different  directions,  and  by  so  doing 
emboldened  the  Indians  to  the  pursuit.  Had  they  stood  firm 
and  combined,  it  is  probable  they  would  have  escaped  unhurt. 

We  traveled  four  hours  on  the  25th,  to  another  branch  of 

Lewis’  or  Snake  river,  and  encamped  in  a large  pleasant 

9 


90 


WILD  FLAX* 


valley,  commonly  called  Jackson’s  large  hole*  It  is  fertile 
and  well  watered  with  a branch  of  Lewis’  river  coming  from 
the  south-east,  and  another  of  some  magnitude,  coming  from 
the  north-east,  which  is  the  outlet  of  Jackson’s  lake,  a body 
of  water  laying  back  of  the  Trois  Tetons*  There  are  also 
many  very  large  springs  of  water  of  uncommon  clearness, 
which  issue  from  the  base  of  the  surrounding  mountains. 
This  valley  is  well  supplied  with  grass  of  excellent  quality, 
which  was  very  grateful  to  our  horses  and  mules,  and  the 
avidity  with  which  they  helped  themselves  seemed  to  say, 
they  would  be  remunerated  for  past  deprivations. 

Flax  is  a spontaneous  production  of  this  country.  In 
every  thing,  except  that  it  is  perennial,  it  resembles  the  flax 
which  is  cultivated  in  the  United  States— the  stalk,  the  boll, 
the  seed,  the  blue  flower  closed  in  the  day  time  and  open  in 
the  evening  and  morning.  The  Indians  use  it  for  making 
fishing  nets.  Fields  of  this  flax  might  be  mowed  like  grass  ; 
for  the  roots  are  too  large  and  run  too  deep  into  the  earth, 
to  be  pulled  like  ours — and  an  advantage,  which  this  would 
have,  is,  that  there  would  be  a saving  of  ploughing  and  sowing. 
Is  it  not  worthy  the  experiment  of  our  agricultural  societies  ? 

Kentuc,  my  Indian,  brought  me  to-day  some  very  good 
currants,  which  were  delicious  in  this  land.  There  are 
several  species,  yellow,  pale  red,  and  black.  The  yellow 
and  pale  red  were  the  best  flavored. 

W e continued  in  this  encampment  three  days,  to  give  our 
animals  an  opportunity  to  recruit,  and  for  Captain  Bridger 
to  fit  and  send  out  several  of  his  men  into  the  mountains  to 
hunt  and  trap.  When  I reflected  upon  the  probability,  that 
most  of  these  men  would  never  return  to  their  friends,  but 
would  find  their  graves  in  the  mountains,  my  heart  was 
pained  for  them,  and  especially  at  their  thoughtlessness 


A MOUNTAIN  PROSPECT. 


91 


about  the  great  things  of  the  eternal  world.  I gave  each  of 
them  a few  tracts,  for  which  they  appeared  grateful,  and 
said  they  would  be  company  for  them  in  their  lonely  hours  ; 
and  as  they  rode  away,  I could  only  pray  for  their  safety 
and  salvation. 

During  our  continuance  here,  I took  an  Indian  for  an  as- 
sistant, and  ascended  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  the 
vicinity,  to  view  the  surrounding  country.  The  prospect 
was  as  extensive  as  the  eye  could  reach,  diversified  with 
mountains,  hills,  plains,  and  valleys.  Most  of  the  mountains 
were  covered  with  woods  ; but  the  plains  and  valleys  were 
covered  with  grass,  presenting  less  of  bright  green,  however^ 
than  might  be  expected  where  the  summer  is  favored  with 
dews  and  rains.  But  the  whole  was  a scene  of  perfect  en- 
chantment. About  sixty  miles  to  the  east  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains lay  stretched  through  the  whole  extent  of  vision,  spread 
out  like  luminous  clouds  in  the  horizon  ; their  summits  so 
elevated,  that  no  soil  ever  rises  to  sully  the  pure  whiteness 
of  their  everlasting  snows,  and  tinged  and  mellowed  with  a 
golden  hue  by  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Not  very  far  to  the 
north,  the  Trois  Tetons,  a cluster  of  high  pointed  mountains, 
covered  with  perpetual  snow,  rising  ten  thousand  feet  almost 
perpendicularly,  were  distinctly  visible,  with  two  others  of 
the  same  form  but  of  less  magnitude.  Only  three  of  the 
cluster  are  so  high  as  to  be  seen  at  a very  great  distance. 
Here  I spent  much  time  in  looking  over  the  widely  extended 
and  varied  scenery,  sometimes  filled  with  emotions  of  the 
sublime,  in  beholding  the  towering  mountains  ; sometimes 
with  pleasure  in  tracing  the  windings  of  the  streams  in  the 
vale  below  ; and  these  sensations  frequently  gave  place  to 
astonishment,  in  viewing  the  courses  in  which  the  rivers  flow 
on  their  way,  unobstructed  by  mountain  barriers.  After 


92 


A MOUNTAIN  PROSPECT. 


some  hours  occupied  in  this  excursion,  I descended  to  the 
encampment  much  gratified  with  what  I had  seen  of  the 
works  of  God.  The  soil  in  this  valley  and  upon  the  hills, 
is  black  and  rich,  and  the  time  will  come,  when  the  solitude 
which  now  prevails  will  be  lost  in  the  lowing  of  herds  and 
bleating  of  flocks,  and  the  plough  will  cleave  the  clods  of  these 
hills  and  vales ; and  from  many  altars  will  ascend  the  in- 
cense of  prayer  and  praise.  After  I returned,  Tai-quin-su- 
wa-tish  took  me  to  his  company  of  horses  and  gave  me  one 
in  token  of  his  friendship,  and  probably  not  without  the  motive 
to  enlist  me  in  his  favor.  The  horse  was  finely  made,  and 
of  the  beautiful  color  of  intermixed  cream  and  white. 

On  the  28th,  we  pursued  our  journey  and  passed  over  a 
mountain  so  high,  that  banks  of  snow  were  but  a short 
distance  from  our  trail.  When  we  had  ascended  two-thirds 
of  the  way,  a number  of  buffalo,  which  were  pursued  by  our 
Jndians,  came  rushing  down  the  side  of  the  mountain  through 
the  midst  of  qur  company.  One  ran  over  a horse,  on  the 
back  of  which  was  a child,  and  threw  the  child  far  down 
the  descent,  but  providentially  it  was  not  materially  injured. 
Another  ran  over  a packed  horse,  and  wounded  it  deeply  in 
the  shoulder.  The  buffalo  are  naturally  timid,  yet  when 
they  have  laid  their  course,  and  being  affrighted  are  run- 
ning at  full  speed,  it  is  seldom  they  change  their  direction, 
whatever  obstacles  may  be  in  their  way. 

I noticed  nothing  particularly  new  in  geology,  excepting 
upon  the  highest  parts  of  these  mountains,  granite  of  very 
light  color.  Our  descent  was  through  woods  more  dense 
than  those  on  the  other  side,  and  the  most  dense  of  any  for- 
ests since  we  left  the  waters  of  the  Missouri.  Many  parts 
of  the  descent  were  of  almost  impassable  steepness ; and 
part  of  the  way  down  a rough  deep  ravine,  a stream  of 


pierre’s  hole. 


93 


water  commences,  and  increasing  from  springs  and  rivulets 
to  considerable  magnitude,  winds  its  way  through  the  valley 
of  Pierre’s  Hole ; in  the  upper  part  of  which  we  made  our 
encampment  among  willows,  in  the  prairie  vale. 

On  the  29th,  removed  our  encampment,  and  traveled  five 
hours  along  this  valley  to  the  place,  where  two  years  before, 
two  fur  companies  held  their  rendezvous.  Pierre’s  Hole  is 
an  extensive  level  country,  of  rich  soil,  well  watered  with 
branches  of  Lewis’  river,  and  is  less  frosty  than  any  part 
we  have  passed  this  side  the  rocky  chain  of  mountains. 
The  valley  is  well  covered  with  grass,  but  like  most  other 
places  is  deficient  in  woodland,  having  only  a scanty  supply 
of  cotton-wood  and  willows  scattered  along  the  streams. 
It  extends  around  to  the  north-west,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  We  expected  to  have  found  buffalo  here,  but  saw 
none.  As  parties  of  Blackfeet  warriors  often  range  this 
way,  it  was  probable  they  had  lately  been  here  and  fright- 
ened them  away.  Between  this  and  our  last  encampment, 
I was  shown  the  place  where  the  men  of  the  fur  companies, 
at  the  time  of  their  rendezvous  two  years  before,  had  a bat- 
tle with  the  Blackfeet  Indians.  Of  the  Blackfeet  party  there 
were  about  sixty  men,  and  more  than  the  same  number  of 
women  and  children  ; of  the  white  men  in  the  valley,  there 
were  some  few  hundred  who  could  be  called  into  action. 
From  the  information  given  me,  it  appeared  that  these  In- 
dians were  on  their  way  through  this  valley,  and  unexpect- 
edly met  about  forty  hunters  and  trappers  going  out  from1 
rendezvous  to  the  south-west  on  their  fall  and  winter  hunt. 
The  Indians  manifested  an  unwillingness  to  fight,  and  pre- 
sented tokens  of  peace ; but  they  were  not  reciprocated. 
Those  who  came  forward  to  stipulate  terms  of  peace  were 

fired  upon  and  killed.  When  the  Indians  saw  their  danger^ 

9* 


94 


THE  BATTLE  OF  PIERRE’S  HOLE. 


they  fled  to  the  cotton-wood  trees  and  willows  which  were 
scattered  along  the  stream  of  water,  and,  taking  advantage 
of  some  fallen  trees,  constructed  as  good  defenses  as  time 
and  circumstances  would  permit.  They  were  poorly  pro- 
vided with  guns,  and  were  still  more  destitute  of  ammuni- 
tion. The  trappers  keeping  out  of  reach  of  their  arrows, 
and  being  well  armed  with  the  best  rifles,  made  the  contest 
unequal ; and  still  more  unequal,  when,  by  an  express  sent 
to  rendezvous,  they  were  reinforced  by  veterans  in  moun- 
tain life.  The  hunters,  keeping  at  a safe  distance,  in  the 
course  of  a few  hours  killed  several  of  the  Indians,  and  al- 
most all  their  horses,  which,  in  their  situation,  could  not  be 
protected,  while  they  themselves  suffered  but  small  loss. 
Those  killed,  on  both  sides,  have  been  differently  stated,  but, 
considering  the  numbers  engaged,  and  the  length  of  time  the 
skirmishing  continued,  it  could  not  have  been  a bloody  bat- 
tle ; and  not  much  to  the  honor  of  civilized  Americans. 
The  excuse  made  for  forcing  the  Blackfeet  into  battle  is, 
that  if  they  had  come  upon  a small  party  of  trappers,  they 
would  have  butchered  them  and  seized  upon  the  plunder. 
If  heathen  Blackfeet  would  have  done  so,  civilized  white 
men  should  not.  What  a noble  opportunity  was  here  af- 
forded for  our  American  citizens  to  have  set  an  example  of 
humanity. 

When  night  approached,  the  hunters  retired  to  their  en- . 
campment  at  the  place  of  rendezvous,  and  the  Indians  made 
their  escape.  Thus  the  famous  battle  of  Pierre’s  Hole 
began  and  ended.* 


* Since  my  return,  I have  seen  an  account  of  this  battle,  written  by 
a graphic  hand,  in  all  the  fascinating  style  of  romance,  representing 
the  Indians  as  having  entrenched  themselves  in  a swamp,  so  densely 
wooded  as  to  be  almost  impenetrable ; and  there  they  kept  the  trap- 


THE  TEN  COMMANDMENTS. 


95 


I attended  worship  this  evening  with  the  chiefs,  and  as 
many  as  could  assemble  in  one  of  their  lodges,  and  explain- 
ed to  them  the  ten  commandments — and  after  showing  them 
their  sin  in  their  transgression  of  God’s  holy  law,  pointed 
them  to  the  Savior,  and  endeavored  to  make  them  under- 
stand the  way  of  salvation.  My  method  of  instructing 
them  was  to  give  the  first  chief  the  first  commandment,  by 
repeating  it,  until  he  could  repeat  it ; and  the  second  com- 
mandment to  another  chief  in  the  same  way,  and  so  on 
through  the  ten,  with  directions  for  them  to  retain  what  was 
given  to  each,  and  to  teach  their  people ; and  the  same 
manner  was  pursued  with  other  parts  of  divine  truth ; in- 
forming them,  that  at  our  next  assembling,  I shall  examine 
them  to  see  if  they  rightly  understood,  and  retained  what  I 
committed  to  each.  And  on  examination,  in  no  case  did  I 
find  more  than  one  material  mistake.  I also  found  that 
they  took  much  pains  to  communicate  instruction  to  each 
other. 


pers  at  bay,  until  they  were  reinforced  from  rendezvous.  When  the 
Blackfeet  saw  the  whole  valley  alive  with  horsemen  rushing  to  the 
field  of  action,  they  withdrew  into  the  dark  tangled  wood.  When  the 
leaders  of  the  several  hunting  parties  came  into  the  field,  they  urged 
their  men  to  enter  the  swamp,  but  they  hung  back  in  awe  of  the  dis- 
mal horrors  of  the  place,  regarding  it  impenetrable  and  full  of  danger. 
But  the  leaders  would  not  be  turned  from  their  purpose — made  their 
wills — appointed  their  executors — grasped  their  rifles,  and  urged  their 
way  through  the  woods.  A brisk  fire  was  opened,  and  the  Blackfeet 
were  completely  overmatched,  but  would  not  leave  their  fort,  nor  offer 
to  surrender.  The  numerous  veteran  mountaineers,  well  equipped,  did 
not  storm  the  breastwork,  even  when  the  Blackfeet  had  spent  their 
powder  and  balls,  but  only  kept  up  the  bloody  battle  by  occasional  firing 
during  the  day.  The  Blackfeet  in  the  night  effected  their  retreat ; 
and  the  brave  mountaineers  assembled  their  forces  in  the  morning, 
and  entered  the  fort  without  opposition . 

With  those  who  have  seen  the  field  of  battle,  the  glowing  descrip- 
tion, drawn  out  in  long  detail,  loses  its  interest ; for  although  I saw  it, 
yet  I did  not  see  dense  woods,  nor  a swamp  of  any  magnitude  any 
where  near. 


96 


VOLCANIC  CHASM. 


In  this  place  I parted  with  Captain  Bridger  and  his  party, 
who  went  north-east  into  the  mountains  to  their  hunting 
ground,  which  the  Blackfeet  claim,  and  for  which  they  will 
contend.  The  first  chief  of  the  Flatheads  and  his  family, 
with  a few  of  his  people,  went  with  Captain  Bridger,  that 
they  might  continue  within  the  range  of  buffalo  through  the 
coming  winter. 

The  Nez  Perces,  and  the  Flatheads,  with  whom  I go, 
take  a north-west  direction  for  Salmon  river,  beyond  which 
is  their  country.  Our  encampment  for  the  Sabbath  was 
well  chosen  for  safety  against  any  war  parties  of  Blackfeet 
Indians,  near  a small  stream  of  water  running  through  a 
volcanic  chasm,  one  hundred  feet  deep,  and-  in  most  places 
perpendicular.  We  were  on  the  west  side  of  the  chasm, 
with  a narrow  strip  of  wood  on  every  other  side.  Here 
was  a passage  made  for  the  water  by  fire.  The  courses, 
which  are  formed  for  the  rivers,  as  forcibly  prove  the  cre- 
ating and  directing  hand  of  God,  as  the  design  manifested 
in  the  organic  part  of  creation  ; and  I would  as  unwillingly 
account  for  the  positions  of  mountains,  and  valleys,  and  the 
channels  of  rivers,  by  natural  phenomena,  without  inclu- 
ding the  power  and  design  of  God,  as  for  the  formation  of 
plants  and  animals.  It  is  true,  there  is  more  minute  and 
curious  organization  in  the  one  than  in  the  other,  but  in 
both  the  wisdom  and  power  of  God  are  manifest. 

This  day  of  rest,  to  a weary  traveler,  is  peculiarly  re- 
freshing, and  it  seemed  as  though  the  Sabbath  was  designed 
especially  for  persons  in  such  circumstances.  It  was,  to 
my  mind,  a type  of  the  final  rest  of  the  spirit  when  it  shall 
return  to  God,  after  the  toils  of  its  present  brief  existence 
are  done.  I read  with  new  satisfaction,  the  Epistle  to  the 
Hebrews,  and  committed  again  myself  and  family,  the 


CHILDREN  ON  HORSEBACK. 


97 


church  and  world  of  mankind,  to  God.  It  was  "pleasant  to 
reflect  on  the  promises,  that  the  kingdoms  of  this  world  shall 
become  the  kingdoms  of  the  Lord  and  of  his  Christ,  and  he 
shall  reign  forever ; and  that  the  time  will  come,  when  all 
shall  know  the  Lord,  and  God  shall  be  merciful  to  their 
unrighteousness,  and  their  sins  and  iniquities  he  will  re- 
member no  more. 

Monday,  31st.  While  the  Indians  were  packing  and  pre- 
paring to  leave  this  encampment,  I went  and  examined  the 
volcanic  chasm.  It  is  many  miles  in  length,  and  narrow, 
considering  its  depth ; formed  of  basaltic  columns  in  many 
places,  and  in  others  of  amygdaloid.  I found  many  large 
and  fine  specimens  of  pure  obsidian,  or  volcanic  glass — 
much  lava  and  vitrified  stones.  I took  some  small  speci- 
mens. In  the  vicinity  around,  there  was  clinkstone  in  great 
abundance,  which,  when  struck  by  the  horses  hoofs,  gave 
a metallic  sound.  The  soil  is  black,  and  appears  to  be 
formed  of  decomposed  lava,  and  is  covered  with  a nutritious 
grass. 

The  Indians  are  very  kind  to  each  other,  and  if  one  meets 
with  any  disaster,  the  others  will  wait  and  assist  him. 
Their  horses  often  turn  their  packs,  and  run,  plunge  and 
kick,  until  they  free  themselves  from  their  burdens.  Yes- 
terday a horse  turned  his  saddle  under  him  upon  which  a 
child  was  fastened,  and  started  to  run,  but  those  near  hover- 
ed at  once  around  with  their  horses  so  as  to  enclose  him, 
and  the  child  was  extricated  without  injury.  When  I saw 
the  condition  of  the  child,  I had  no  expectation  that  it  could 
be  saved  alive.  This  was  the  second  case  of  the  kind  which 
had  occurred  since  I had  been  traveling  with  these  Indians. 
They  are  so  well  supplied  with  horses  that  every  man, 
woman,  and  child,  are  mounted  on  horseback,  and  all  their 


98 


CHILDREN  ON  HORSEBACK. 


possessions  are  packed  upon  horses.  Small  children,  not 
more  than  three  years  old,  are  mounted  alone,  and  gene- 
rally upon  colts.  They  are  lashed  upon  the  saddle  to  keep 
them  from  falling,  when  they  sleep,  which  they  often  do 
when  they  become  fatigued.  Then  they  recline  upon  the 
horses  shoulders ; and  when  they  awake,  lay  hold  of  their 
whip,  which  is  fastened  to  the  wrist  of  their  right  hand,  and 
apply  it  smartly  to  their  horses ; and  it  is  astonishing  to 
see  how  these  little  creatures  will  guide  and  run  them. 
Children  which  are  still  younger,  are  put  into  an  encase- 
ment made  with  a board  at  the  back  and  a wicker  work 
around  the  other  parts,  covered  with  cloth  inside  and  out, 
or,  more  generally,  with  dressed  skins ; and  are  carried 
upon  the  mothers5  back,  or  suspended  from  a high  knob  upon 
the  fore  part  of  their  saddles. 

As  we  recede  from  the  mountains  the  climate  becomes 
warmer.  We  encamped  upon  another  tributary  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish,  the  principal  chief  of  the 
Nez  Perees,  came  to  me  and  requested  me  to  meet  in  his 
lodge  a number  of  his  people  who  had  separated,  husbands 
from  their  wives,  and  wives  from  their  husbands,  and  ex- 
plain to  them  what  God  had  said  upon  the  subject.  I rea- 
dily consented,  and  was  the  more  pleased  with  the  proposal 
as  it  was  without  any  suggestion  from  myself,  but  the  result 
of  his  own  reflections  after  what  I had  before  said  in  explain- 
ing the  ten  commandments.  When  they  were  assembled, 
I read  to  them  about  the  relative  duties  of  husbands  and 
wives,  and  of  parents  and  children.  I commented  upon  the 
subject,  and  told  them  that  when  they  marry  it  must  be  for 
life.  All  but  two  agreed  to  go  back  to  their  former  hus- 
bands and  wives.  It  was  interesting  to  see  that  they  are  rea- 
dy to  practice  instructions  as  soon  as  received.  The  chief 


PEARS  OP  BLACKFEET. 


99 


said  they  desired  me  to  instruct  them  in  all  that  God  has 
said  ; for  they  wish  to  do  right.  After  I left  them,  they 
stayed  a long  time  in  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  which  was  near 
my  tent,  and  I heard  them  conversing  on  the  subject  until 
I went  to  sleep,  which  was  at  a late  hour.  They  all  shook 
hands  with  me  when  I left  them,  and  said  my  words  were 
“tois”  (good.) 

Tuesday,  September  1st.  We  pursued  our  journey  to- 
day only  about  four  hours.  Crossed  Henry’s  Fork,  another 
branch  of  Lewis’  river,  which  is  itself  a river  of  some  mag- 
nitude, about  twenty  rods  wide  in  this  place,  and  fordable 
only  when  the  water  is  low.  After  proceeding  a few  miles 
down  on  the  north  side,  we  encamped  at  an  early  hour  in 
a spot  upon  the  bank  of  the  river,  surrounded  by  cotton- 
wood with  a dense  growth  of  shrubbery.  Our  fears  of 
meeting  a war  party  of  Blackfeet  Indians,  were  increased 
by  seeing  three  Indians  pass  who  were  strangers  to  us. 
Some  of  the  chiefs  went  through  our  encampment  and  ha- 
rangued the  people,  the  object  of  which  was  to  be  prepared 
for  defending  themselves  against  an  attack,  should  any  en- 
emies appear.  We  were  preserved  in  safety  through  the 
night,  and  arose  on  the  morning  of  the  second  and  went  on 
our  way,  and  performed  a journey  of  twenty-two  miles  over 
a barren  section  of  country.  The  surface  is  composed  of 
quartose  sand,  intermixed  with  disintegrated  amygdaloid, 
basalt,  and  obsidian.  In  some  places  were  large  excava- 
tions, plainly  indicative  of  ancient  volcanoes,  which  had 
spread  out  their  melted  contents  in  a level  plain  of  hard 
lava,  or  amygdaloid,  without  forming  cones.  In  other  pla- 
ces there  were  conical  rocks  of  different  magnitudes  at  the 
base,  and  of  different  height — -none  perhaps  over  the  diame- 
ter of  three  rods  at  the  base  and  sixty  feet  high.  They 


100 


INVITATION  TO  FORT  HALL. 


were  universally  divided  in  the  centre,  as  though  an  explo- 
sion had  taken  place  after  they  were  hardened.  At  some 
distance  from  us  were  several  hills,  rising  in  high  cones 
some  hundred  feet — two  of  them  I should  judge  to  be  not 
far  from  three  thousand  feet  high.  I did  not  have  an  oppor- 
tunity of  examining  their  geological  formation. 

We  arrived  at  evening  at  a small  branch  of  the  Salmon 
river,  which  was  the  first  water  we  had  found  through  the 
day,  and  upon  which  was  good  grass  for  our  horses.  Here 
Kentuc,  my  Indian,  caught  some  excellent  trout,  which  was 
a very  grateful  change  of  food. 

Our  progress  during  the  next  day  was  through  a barren 
tract,  as  yesterday,  where  there  is  no  vegetation  except 
wormwood,  which  grows  very  large.  A sluggish  stream 
bordered  with  willows,  afforded  us  some  conveniences  for 
stopping  at  night.  Thermometer,  at  noon,  65°. 

We  traveled  on  the  fourth,  five  hours,  and  encamped  by 
a stream  of  water,  in  Cote’s  defile,  which  comes  out  of  the 
mountains  and  is  lost  in  the  barren  plains  below.  Cote’s 
defile  passes  through  a range  of  high  mountains,  some  of 
the  tops  of  which  are  covered  with  snow.  Most  of  the  day 
was  uncomfortably  cold  with  snow-squalls.  Thermometer, 
at  noon,  54°. 

Friday,  4th.  To-day  I received  a letter  from  Fort  Hall, 
containing  an  invitation  from  Mr.  A.  Baker  to  spend  the 
winter  with  him  ; but  the  object  for  which  I have  passed 
the  Rocky  Mountains  required  me  to  pursue  my  tour,  and 
if  possible  to  reach  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  to  return  to  Fort 
Vancouver  before  winter.  We  providentially  learned  that 
a large  band  of  Nez  Perces  was  a few  miles  below  us,  and 
would  come  to  us  to-morrow.  We  had  become  almost  des- 
titute of  provisions,  but  to-day  killed  a few  buffalo. 


CHARLIE,  A NEZ  PERCE  CHIEF. 


101 


The  morning  of  the  5th  was  very  cold.  We  continued 
in  our  encampment,  to  give  the  band  of  Nez  Perces  an  op- 
portunity to  join  us,  and  about  the  middle  of  the  day  they 
came  ; the  principal  chief  marching  in  front  with  his  aid, 
carrying  an  American  flag  by  his  side.  They  all  sung  a 
march,  while  a few  beat  a sort  of  drum.  As  they  drew 
near  they  displayed  columns,  and  made  quite  an  imposing 
appearance.  The  women  and  children  followed  in  the  rear. 
Tai-quin-su-wa-tish,  and  other  chiefs,  arranged  their  people 
in  the  same  order  and  went  out  to  meet  them  ; and  when 
we  had  approached  within  ten  rods  of  each  other,  all  halted, 
and  a salute  was  fired,  in  which  I had  to  take  the  lead. 
They  then  dismounted,  and  both  bands  formed  into  single 
file,  and  meeting,  shook  hands  with  me  and  each  other  in 
token  of  friendship,  and  to  express  their  joy  to  see  one  come 
among  them  to  teach  them  respecting  God  and  salvation. 
The  principal  chief  of  the  other  band  who  is  called  Charlie, 
and  is  the  first  chief  of  the  Nez  Perce  nation,  is  a good  look- 
ing man,  his  countenance  rather  stern,  intelligent,  and  ex- 
pressive of  much  decision  of  character.  I never  saw  joy  ex- 
pressed in  a more  dignified  manner,  than  when  he  took  me 
firmly  by  the  hand  and  welcomed  me. 

In  the  afternoon  I took  Kentuc  and  rode  five  miles  to  see 
a prominence  of  interesting  appearance.  It  is  detached 
from  the  main  mountain,  stands  on  a plain  upon  the  east  side 
of  Cote’s  defile,  is  about  a half  mile  in  circumference  at  the 
base,  and  rises  up  abruptly,  having  most  of  its  west  side 
perpendicular.  It  is  more  than  two  hundred  feet  high,  has 
a level  horizontal  summit  of  eighty  rods  long,  north  and 
south,  and  twenty  rods  wide.  It  furnishes  plain  evidence  of 
having  been  fused  and  thrown  up  by  subterranean  fires. 

In  the  evening  I met  the  chiefs,  and  as  many  as  could 

10 


102 


A SANCTUARY  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 


assemble  in  the  lodge,  and  explained  to  those  whom  I had 
not  seen  before,  the  object  of  my  mission.  Charlie,  the  first 
chief,  arose  and  spoke  with  much  good  sense  for  some  time 
— mentioned  his  ignorance,  his  desire  to  know  more  about 
God,  and  his  gladness  of  heart  to  see  one  who  can  teach 
him  ; and  said,  “ I have  been  like  a little  child,  uneasy, 
feeling  about  in  the  dark  after  something,  not  knowing 
what ; but  now  I hope  to  learn  something  which  will  be 
substantial,  and  which  will  help  me  to  teach  my  people  to 
do  right.”  I told  them  to-morrow  would  be  the  Sabbath  ; 
and  explained  to  them  the  nature  of  the  institution,  and  their 
obligation  to  remember  and  keep  it  holy.  They  expressed 
their  desire  to  obey,  and  said  they  would  not  remove  camp, 
but  attend  to  the  worship  of  God.  Providentially  there 
came  to  us  this  afternoon  a good  interpreter  from  Fort  Hall, 
so  that  to-morrow  I can  preach  to  the  people. 

Sabbath,  6th.  Early  this  morning  one  of  the  oldest 
chiefs  went  about  among  the  people,  and  with  a loud  voice 
explained  to  them  the  instructions  given  last  evening  ; told 
them  it  was  the  Sabbath,  and  they  must  prepare  for  public 
worship.  About  eight  in  the  morning,  some  of  the  chiefs 
came  to  me  and  asked  where  they  should  assemble.  I en- 
quired if  they  could  not  be  accommodated  under  the  shade 
of  the  willows,  which  skirted  the  stream  of  water  on  which 
we  were  encamped.  They  thought  on  account  of  their- 
numbers  they  could  not.  I then  enquired  if  they  could  not 
take  the  poles  of  some  of  their  lodges  and  construct  a shade ; 
and  without  any  other  directions  they  went  and  made  pre* 
paration,  and  before  eleven  o’clock  came  and  said  they 
were  ready  for  worship.  I found  them  all  assembled,  men, 
women,  and  children,  between  four  and  five  hundred,  in 
what  I would  call  a sanctuary  of  God,  constructed  with 


AN  INTERESTING  AUDIENCE-  10# 

their  lodges,  nearly  one  hundred  feet  long  and  about  twenty 
feet  wide ; and  all  were  arranged  in  rows,  through  the 
length  of  the  building  upon  their  knees,  with  a narrow  space 
in  the  middle,  lengthwise,  resembling  an  aisle.  The  whole 
area  within  was  carpeted  with  their  dressed  skins,  and  they 
were  all  in  their  best  attire.  The  chiefs  were  arranged  in 
a semicircle  at  the  end  which  I was  to  occupy.  I could 
not  have  believed  they  had  the  means,  or  could  have  known 
how  to  erect  so  convenient  and  so  decent  a place  for  wor- 
ship, and  especially  as  it  was  the  first  time  they  had  had 
public  worship.  The  whole  sight  affected  me,  and  filled  me 
with  admiration ; and  I felt  as  though  it  was  the  house  of 
God  and  the  gate  of  heaven. 

They  all  continued  in  a kneeling  position  during  singing 
and  prayer,  and  when  I closed  prayer  with  Amen,  they  all 
said  what  was  equivalent  in  their  language,  to  Amen.  And 
when  I commenced  sermon,  they  seated  themselves  back 
upon  their  heels.  I stated  to  them  the  original  condition  of 
man  when  first  created,  his  fall,  and  the  ruined  and  sinful 
condition  of  all  mankind  ; the  law  of  God,  and  that  all  are 
transgressors  of  this  law  and  as  such  are  exposed  to  the 
wrath  of  God,  both  in  this  life  and  the  life  to  come  ; and 
then  told  them  of  the  mercy  of  God  in  giving  his  Son  to  die 
for  us,  and  of  the  love  of  the  Savior,  and  that  though  he  de- 
sires our  salvation,  he  will  not  save  us  unless  we  hate  sin 
and  put  our  trust  in  him,  and  love  and  obey  him  with  all 
our  heart.  I also  endeavored  to  show  them  the  necessity 
of  renovation  of  heart  by  the  power  and  grace  of  the  Holy 
Spirit.  Told  them  they  must  pray  to  God  for  the  forgive- 
ness of  their  sins  and  for  salvation.  They  gave  the  utmost 
attention,  and  entire  stillness  prevailed,  excepting,  when 
some  truth  arrested  their  minds  forcibly,  a little  humming 


104 


AN  INDIAN  BURIAL. 


sound  passed  through  the  whole  assembly,  occupying  two 
or  three  seconds. 

I never  spoke  to  a more  interesting  assembly,  and  would 
not  have  changed  my  audience  for  any  other  upon  earth  ; 
and  I felt  that  it  was  worth  a journey  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  to  enjoy  this  one  opportunity  with  these  heathen 
who  are  so  anxious  to  obtain  a knowledge  of  God.  I hope, 
that  in  the  last  day  it  will  be  found  that  good  was  done  in 
the  name  of  Jesus.  If  Christians  could  have  witnessed  this 
day’s  service,  it  would  have  enlisted  their  sympathies,  and 
they  would  be  willing  to  do  something  adequate  to  the  con- 
version of  these  perishing  souls. 

An  Indian  boy  about  sixteen  years  old,  who  belonged  to 
the  band  which  joined  us  yesterday,  died  this  morning.  He 
was  speechless  when  he  was  brought  here.  We  attended 
his  funeral  in  the  afternoon.  They  buried  him  in  a very 
decent  manner,  without  any  heathen  rites,  excepting  that 
they  buried  with  him  all  his  clothes  and  blankets.  I ad- 
dressed the  people  at  the  grave  upon  the  subject  of  the  re- 
surrection and  of  the  judgment.  This  was  entirely  new 
to  them  and  very  interesting.  Tai-quin-su-wa-tish  came  to 
my  tent  towards  evening,  and  said,  what  I had  said  was 
“tois”  it  was  spiritual,  and  now  he  knew  more  about  God. 
So  deep  was  the  interest  awakened  by  the  few  ideas  their 
benighted  minds  had  obtained  of  this  most  precious  truth  of 
our  religion,  that  they  came  to  my  tent  after  I had  retired 
to  rest,  and  awakened  me,  to  go  and  converse  still  farther 
wTith  them  on  the  subject. 

Monday,  7th.  We  traveled  five  hours  to-day.  The  In- 
dians make  slow  progress  in  traveling  with  their  village  ; 
for  it  takes  them  a long  time  to  pack  and  unpack,  to 
set  up  and  take  down  their  lodges.  This  is,  however,  of 


INDIAN  HOSPITALITY. 


105 


little  consequence  to  them  ; for  wherever  they  are,  it  is 
their  home. 

They  are  very  kind,  and  manifest  their  kindness  in  anti- 
cipating all,  and  more  than  all,  my  wants,  which  they  have 
the  power  to  supply.  They  consult  me  upon  all  their  im- 
portant business,  and  are  ready  to  follow  my  counsels. 
They  are  attentive  to  furnish  little  comforts.  If  the  sun 
shines  with  much  warmth  into  my  tent,  they  will  cut  green 
bushes  and  set  them  up  for  shade.  A few  days  since, 
we  encamped  where  there  were  some  fragrant  plants  of  a 
species  of  mint,  and  the  wife  of  Tai-quin-su-wa-tish,  with  a 
few  other  women,  collected  a quantity,  and  strewed  them 
in  my  tent. 

We  passed  to-day  mountains  of  volcanic  rocks  and  over 
a more  rich,  black  soil,  where  we  found  a good  supply  of 
grass  for  our  horses  at  night. 

Our  route,  on  the  8th,  was  continued  as  usual.  My  health 
hitherto,  since  I commenced  my  journey,  has  been  uninter- 
ruptedly good,  until  to-day  I suffered  a slight  attack  of  in- 
flammation of  the  lungs,  in  consequence  of  a cold. 

The  Indian  mode  of  living  is  very  precarious,  and  yet 
they  are  seldom  anxious  about  the  future.  When  they  have 
a plenty,  they  are  not  sparing  ; and  when  they  are  in  want, 
they  do  not  complain.  The  Indians  at  this  time  were  al- 
most destitute  of  provisions,  and  we  were  approaching  the 
Salmon  river  mountains,  to  pass  over  which  occupies  be- 
tween twelve  and  fifteen  days,  and  where  there  are  no  buf- 
falo and  scarcely  any  other  game.  I felt  a prayerful  con- 
cern for  them,  that  God  would  send  a supply  before  we 
should  get  beyond  the  range  of  buffalo,  and  was  confident 
that  we  should  experience  the  truth  of  His  word,  that  he 

provides  for  all  their  meat  in  due  season ; and  as  the  cattle 

10* 


106 


SCARCITY  OF  PROVISIONS TIMELY  SUPPLY. 


upon  the  thousand  hills  are  his,  so  he  would  not  withhold  his 
providential  care  from  us. 

We  continued  to  pass  basaltic  mountains ; and  also 
passed  some  very  white  marl  clay,  which  the  Indians  use 
for  cleansing  their  robes  and  other  garments  made  of  dress- 
ed skins. 

Their  mode  of  doing  this  is  to  make  the  clay  into  a paste, 
and  rub  it  upon  the  garments,  and  when  it  becomes  dry 
rub  it  off,  which  process  leaves  the  garment  soft,  clean,  and 
white.  We  encamped  to-day  where  they  had  before  made 
an  encampment,  a little  below  a steep  bank.  Near  night  I 
was  alarmed  by  shouts  of  Indians  and  a general  rush  up 
the  bank.  I hastened  up  and  saw  great  numbers  running 
towards  our  camp.  It  proved  to  be  a foot  race,  such  as 
they  frequently  exercise  themselves  in,  for  the  purpose  of 
improving  their  agility. 

September  9th,  I was  more  unwell.  To-day  we  unex- 
pectedly saw  before  us  a large  band  of  buffalo,  and  halted 
to  make  preparation  for  the  chase.  The  young  men  and 
all  the  good  hunters  prepared  themselves,  selected  the 
swiftest  horses,  examined  the  few  guns  they  had,  and  took 
a supply  of  arrows  with  their  bows.  Our  condition  was 
such,  that  it  seemed  our  lives  almost  depended  upon  their 
success.  And  while  they  were  preparing,  I could  not  but 
offer  prayer  to  God,  that  he  would  in  mercy  give  them  ‘ 
judgment,  skill,  and  success.  They  advanced  towards  the 
herd  of  buffalo  with  great  caution,  lest  they  should  frighten 
them  before  they  could  make  a near  approach ; and  also  to 
reserve  the  power  of  their  horses  for  the  chase,  when  it  should 
be  necessary  to  bring  it  into  full  requisition.  When  the 
buffalo  took  the  alarm  and  fled,  the  rush  was  made,  each* 
Indian  selecting  for  himself  a cow  with  which  he  happened; 


CHASE. 


107 


to  come  into  the  nearest  contact.  All  were  in  swift  motion, 
scouring  the  valley — a cloud  of  dust  began  to  arise— the 
firing  of  guns  and  the  shooting  of  arrows  followed  in  close 
succession — soon  here  and  there  buffalo  were  seen  pros- 
trated ; and  the  women,  who  followed  close  in  the  rear, 
began  the  work  of  securing  the  valuable  acquisition ; and 
the  men  were  away  again  in  pursuit  of  the  fleeing  herd. 
Those  in  the  chase,  when  they  came  abreast  of  the  buffalo 
and  at  the  distance  of  two  rods,  shoot  and  wheel,  expecting 
the  wounded  animal  to  turn  upon  them.  The  horses  ap- 
peared to  understand  the  way  to  avoid  danger.  As  soon  as 
the  wounded  animal  flies  again,  the  chase  is  renewed,  and 
such  is  the  alternate  wheeling  and  chasing  until  the  buffalo 
sinks  beneath  its  wounds.  They  obtained  between  fifty 
and  sixty. 

I was  interested  to  see  how  expertly  the  Indians  used  the 
bow  and  arrow,  and  how  well  the  women  followed  up  the 
chase,  and  performed  their  part  in  dressing  the  buffalo  which 
were  slain.  After  traveling  six  hours  to-day,  we  encamped 
on  the  eastern  branch  of  Salmon  river,  where  it  is  of  con- 
siderable magnitude.  The  pain  in  my  breast  changed  and 
seated  in  my  head,  on  the  right  side. 

On  the  10th,  my  health  was  no  better,  and  I was  obliged 
to  resort  to  medicine.  I could  say  with  the  Psalmist,  “ I 
laid  me  down  and  slept  ; for  thou  art  with  me.”  We  did 
not  remove  to-day,  for  it  was  necessary  for  the  Indians  to 
dry  their  meat  by  a process  which  is  called  “ jerking.”  The 
meat  is  cut  into  pieces,  an  inch  thick,  and  spread  out  on  a 
fixture  made  with  stakes,  upon  which  are  laid  poles,  and 
upon  these  cross  sticks ; and  then  a moderate  fire  is  placed 
beneath,  which  partly  smokes,  cooks,  and  dries  it,  until  it 
is  so  well,  freed  from  moisture,  that  it  can  be  packed,  and 


108 


SALMON  RIVER. 


will  keep  without  injury  almost  any  length  of  time.  Here 
we  made  preparation  for  the  remainder  of  my  journey  to 
Walla  Walla,  which  will  probably  occupy  about  twenty 
days. 

September  11th.  To-day  most  of  the  Nez  Perces  and 
Flatheads  left  us  to  continue  within  the  range  of  buffalo, 
that  they  might  secure  a larger  store  of  provisions  before 
winter,  leaving,  however,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  go 
with  me  towards  Walla  Walla.  Before  they  left  us,  I ex- 
perienced another  token  of  their  regard  in  a very  valuable 
present  of  twenty  fine  buffalo  tongues,  which  are  a great 
delicacy,  together  with  a large  quantity  of  dried  meat.  I 
reciprocated  their  kindness  by  making  such  presents  as  were 
in  my  power  to  bestow — among  which  was  a britania  cup, 
to  the  first  chief,  which  he  highly  valued.  And  I gave  him 
some  writing  paper,  requesting  him  to  present  it  to  the  mis- 
sionaries whom  I had  encouraged  him  to  expect  next  year. 

After  traveling  three  hours,  we  encamped  upon  the  same 
branch  of  the  Salmon  river,  to  give  the  Indians  an  oppor- 
tunity to  dry  their  meat  more  thoroughly. 

We  continued  our  journey,  on  the  12th,  down  the  eastern 
branch  of  Salmon  river.  The  valley  through  which  this 
river  runs  is  generally  fertile,  and  varies  from  one  to  three 
or  four  miles  in  width,  but  as  we  advanced  toward  the  Sal- 
mon river  mountains,  the  mountains  upon  each  side  in- 
creased in  height  and  converged  towards  each  other.  They 
presented  some  noble  prospects.  It  is  a custom  with  Indians 
to  send  out  numbers  of  their  best  hunters  and  warriors,  in 
different  directions,  to  reconnoiter,  and  especially  when  they 
are  apprehensive  that  enemies  may  be  near.  We  had  evi- 
dence, from  tracks  recently  made,  that  Indians  of  some  other 
nation,  or  tribe,  were  about  us ; and  therefore  more  than 


DANGER  APPREHENDED. 


109 


usual  numbers  of  our  men  were  flanking,  and  ahead.  On 
the  banks  of  the  river  down  which  we  were  traveling,  there 
was  a dense  growth  of  willows  extending,  however,  only  a 
few  rods  into  the  bottom-lands.  About  two  in  the  afternoon, 
we  were  all  very  much  alarmed  to  see  our  men,  who  were 
out  as  hunters  and  guards  upon  the  hills,  running  their  horses 
full  speed,  in  an  oblique  direction  towards  us.  Two  of  them 
were  our  principal  chiefs.  We  knew  that  they  had  discov- 
ered something  more  than  ordinary,  but  what  we  could  not 
conjecture.  Being  in  a country  where  war  parties  of  Black- 
feet  Indians  often  range,  our  thoughts  were  turned  upon  dan- 
ger ; and  soon  our  fears  were  increased  by  seeing  on  the  sides 
of  the  mountains  at  our  left,  clouds  of  dust  arise,  and  in  the 
obscure  distance,  men  descending  as  swiftly  as  their  horses 
could  run.  They  were  so  far  off  that  we  could  not  deter- 
mine who  they  were.  At  the  same  time  our  two  chiefs  on 
the  hills  halted  and  made  signals  which  we  did  not  under- 
stand. In  addition  to  this,  some  of  the  Indians  said  they 
saw  Blackfeet  Indians  in  the  willows,  not  far  off,  between 
us  and  the  chiefs ; and  our  belief  that  it  was  so,  was  confirm- 
ed, when  two  deer  rushed  from  the  willows  towards  us,  and 
when  they  saw  us,  instead  of  returning,  only  declined  a lit- 
tle to  the  left,  and  passed  before  us.  These  enquiries  arose 
in  my  mind— Why  have  the  chiefs  halted  ? Do  they  see 
enemies  between  us  and  themselves  ? Are  their  signals  to 
give  us  warning  of  danger  ? What  so  frightened  the  deer 
that  they  rushed  out  towards  us  ? We  had  all  halted,  and 
made  what  preparation  we  could  for  battle.  As  we  did 
not  know  in  what  part  of  the  willows  to  make  the  attack, 
we  were  waiting  for  our  enemies  to  commence  the  fire,  and 
were  expecting  every  instant  to  have  their  balls  poured  in 
upon  us.  It  was  a moment  of  awful  suspense.  We  sent 


110 


BUFFALO. 


out  a few  men,  upon  an  eminence  to  our  right,  to  see  what 
they  could  discover,  and  they  soon  returned  without  having 
seen  any  enemies.  The  two  chiefs  upon  the  hills,  who  were 
now  joined  by  those  who  rushed  down  the  mountains,  and 
who  proved  to  be  some  of  our  own  men,  applied  their  whips 
to  their  horses,  and  in  full  speed  came  to  us ; and  Charlie, 
the  first  chief,  rode  up  to  me,  and  smiling,  reached  out  his 
hand  and  said,  “ cocoil  cocoil”  (buffalo,  buffalo.)  Thus 
ended  the  battle ; and  the  remainder  of  the  day  was  spent 
in  killing  and  dressing  buffalo,  which  was  far  more  pleasant 
than  fighting  Blackfeet  Indians.  This  made  a desirable 
addition  to  their  stock  of  provisions.  We  encamped  in  this 
place,  which  supplied  a plenty  of  good  grass  for  our  horses, 
and  where  there  was  no  want  of  fuel. 

The  inflammation  in  my  head  still  continued  with  throb- 
bing, pain,  and  fever — my  pulse  one  hundred  a minute. 
Bled  myself  again  and  took  medicine.  Thermometer,  at 
noon,  73°. 

Sabbath,  13th.  My  health  no  better,  and  my  strength 
was  failing.  I felt  that  all  was  right,  and  that  I needed  this 
trial  to  lead  me  to  an  examination  of  my  spiritual  condition, 
my  motives  in  engaging  in  this  mission,  and  whether  I could 
give  up  all  for  Christ  to  promote  his  kingdom  in  the  world. 
I thought  I could  surrender  all  into  the  hands  of  God,  my 
soul  to  my  Redeemer,  and  my  body  to  be  buried  by  these 
Indians  in  this  desert  land.  I felt  as  though  it  was  desira- 
ble to  finish  my  tour,  and  return  and  make  my  report,  and 
urge  the  sending  of  missionaries  into  this  field,  which  is 
white  for  the  harvest ; and  again  to  meet  my  family  and 
friends  ; but  still  I wished  not  to  have  any  will  of  my  own, 
but  say,  the  will  of  the  Lord  be  done.  These  Indians  per- 
severe in  their  kindness,  and  are  very  respectful,  and  ready 


GEOLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


Ill 


to  obey  as  fast  as  I can  impart  instruction ; and  they  say 
that  what  I tell  them  is  different  from  any  thing  they  have 
ever  heard,  being  spiritual,  and  that  they  wish  to  have 
Sueapo  (American)  teachers.  If  the  American  churches 
will  not  send  them  teachers,  criminality  must  rest  upon 
them  for  disobedience  to  Christ’s  authority.  Are  there  any 
heathen  more  anxious  than  these  to  be  taught  the  way  of 
salvation,  where  there  are  so  few  obstacles  to  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  gospel  ? Here  are  no  idols,  no  sacrifices,  no 
power  of  caste  to  combat ; nor,  as  yet,  the  destructive  influ- 
ence which  exists  upon  the  frontiers. 

September  14th.  Re-commenced  our  journey,  and  pro- 
ceeded five  hours  down  the  river,  and  stopped  a few  miles 
above  the  main  branch  of  Salmon  river,  which  comes  from 
the  south,  and  has  its  source  in  two  small  lakes  in  the  moun- 
tains north  of  Henry’s  fork. 

For  some  distance  on  our  way,  on  the  15th,  the  moun- 
tains came  down  near  the  river,  rendering  the  valley  through 
which  it  runs,  narrow.  Some  of  these  mountnins  terminate 
in  high  bluffs,  which  in  many  places  present  uncommonly 
interesting  strata.  The  lowest  stratum  was  white  marly 
earth,  about  twenty  feet  in  depth,  nearly  horizontal,  and 
somewhat  indurated ; upon  this  a green  stratum  of  about 
four  feet  in  thickness  ; next  a stratum  of  brown  of  about 
ten  feet ; upon  this  a stratum  of  red  about  the  same  depth 
of  the  green  ; over  this  a mould  of  decomposed  lava.  This 
marly  earth  slightly  effervesces  with  acid.  The  rocks  in 
most  places  are  basalt — in  some  places  very  fine  granular 
quartz.  Noticing  some  unusual  appearances  near  the  foot 
of  the  mountains,  on  the  left,  I rode  to  the  place,  and  found 
a cluster  of  volcanic  eruptions,  which,  though  ancient,  ap- 
p eared  more  recent  than  any  I had  previously  seen,  A little 


112 


PETRIFIED  STUMP. 


way  down  the  descent  into  one  of  the  craters,  I found  a pe- 
trified stump,  standing  in  its  natural  position  ; its  roots  and 
the  grain  of  the  wood  entire.  I think  it  was  cedar,  and 
about  eighteen  inches  in  diameter.  This  stood  undoubtedly, 
upon  what  was  the  natural  surface  of  the  earth,  and  the 
mound  above  and  around  was  thrown  up  by  volcanic  fires. 
While  time  is  mouldering  the  lava  into  dust,  the  wind  is 
scattering  it  over  the  country  around,  to  renew  the  soil 
which  was  destroyed  by  the  great  conflagration,  which  once 
fused  this  whole  region  of  the  setting  sun.  This  petrified 
stump,  found  in  this  position,  proves  that  this  country,  which 
is  now  so  destitute  of  wood,  was  once  supplied  if  not  covered 
with  forests.  From  various  sources  of  evidence,  it  is  plain 
that  these  prairie  regions  were  formerly  better  supplied  with 
wood  than  at  present,  and  also  that  the  present  supply  is 
constantly  diminishing. 

We  passed,  to-day,  a place  where  two  years  ago  thirty 
Nez  Perce  young  men,  who  were  killed  by  the  Blackfeet, 
were  buried.  They  were  all  active  young  men,  going  out 
upon  some  expedition,  the  nature  of  which  I could  not  learn. 
They  had  gone  but  a little  distance  from  the  village,  which 
encamped  here,  when  passing  through  a very  narrow  defile 
on  a small  stream  of  water,  walled  up  on  both  sides  with 
perpendicular  rocks,  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  who  had  way- 
laid them,  attacked  them  from  before  and  behind,  and  killed 
all  but  one,  who  mounted  a horse  belonging  to  the  Black- 
feet, and  rushed  through  the  opposing  enemy.  After  the 
Blackfeet  Indians  had  retired  from  the  place  of  slaughter, 
the  Nez  Perces  brought  away  the  dead  bodies  and  buried 
them  in  this  place.  According  to  their  mode,  they  buried 
with  them  their  clothes,  blankets,  and  buffalo  robes,  in  graves 
about  three  feet  deep,  putting  five  or  six  bodies  in  a grave. 


SCENE  OF  MOURNING. 


113 


Some  time  after  this,  the  Blackfeet  Indians  came  and  dug 
them  up,  and  made  plunder  of  their  blankets  and  whatever 
they  thought  worth  taking.  The  Nez  Perces,  some  time  af- 
terward, came  this  way  and  collected  their  bones  and  buried 
them  again.  The  graves  in  which  they  were  first  buried 
were  open  when  we  passed,  and  fragments  of  garments  were 
lying  about.  Here  my  Indians  halted,  and  mourned  in 
silence  over  their  murdered  sons  and  brothers.  The  whole 
scene  was  affecting,  and  I could  not  but  long  for  the  time  to 
come  when  they  shall  settle  down  in  a Christian  commu- 
nity, and  cease  from  their  dangerous  wanderings  ; and  the 
gospel  shall  be  sent  to  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  that  they  may 
imbibe  its  spirit  of  peace  on  earth  and  good  will  toward  men. 
After  some  time  spent  in  reflections  and  solemn  mourning, 
we  left  the  place  and  proceeded  down  the  river,  and  en- 
camped near  Bonneville’s  Fort,  which  he  has  abandoned, 
and  which  is  situated  in  a small  pleasant  valley.  This 
place  would  be  favorable  for  fur  business,  tvas  it  not  on  the 
ground  where  conflicting  tribes  often  meet. 


114 


SALMON  RIVER. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Salmon  river — mineral  salt — chimneys — forest  trees,  new  species  of 
pine — geology — sulphur  lake — a rare  animal — new  species  of  squir- 
rels and  pheasants — came  to  the  Lewis  branch  of  the  Columbia — fer- 
ryman— Basaltic  formation — fine  climate — arrive  at  Walla  Walla. 

Salmon  river  is  a beautiful  transparent  stream,  and  takes 
its  name  from  the  immense  number  of  salmon  found  in  its 
waters.  The  shores  are  covered  with  pebbles  of  primitive 
formation. 

I took  an  observation  of  latitude,  and  found  it  44°  41'. 

September  16th.  Passing  a mile  down  the  river,  we 
came  to  a location  of  mineral  salt.  It  crops  out  of  the 
mountain  near  its  base,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  On 
account  of  the  impaired  state  of  my  health,  and  having  no  fa- 
cilities for  exploring  the  mine,  I was  under  the  necessity  of 
passing  it  with  an  examination  of  such  specimens  only  as 
the  Indians  procured.  The  salt  is  pure  and  white,  contain- 
ing less  of  the  water  of  crystalization  than  our  common 
salt.  I took  a quantity  to  replenish  my  nearly  exhausted 
store.  That  the  mine  may  be  extensive  is  probable  from- 
the  circumstance,  that  the  geological  formations  around  are 
like  those  about  the  mines  in  Poland,  and  besides  it  is  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  great  Salt  Lake,  whose  waters  are  so  strongly 
saturated  that  crystals  form  upon  the  shores. 

After  passing  down  the  river  two  hours  in  a north-west 
direction,  we  entered  into  the  mountains,  leaving  Salmon 
river.  The  river  literally  passed  into  the  mountains ; for 


THE  CHIMNEYS. 


115 


the  opening  in  the  perpendicular  rocks,  two  or  three  hun- 
dred feet  high,  through  these  mountains  several  thousand 
feet  high,  was  wide  enough  only  for  the  river  to  find  a pas- 
sage. It  flowed  into  the  dark  chasm,  and  we  saw  it  no 
more.  During  the  two  hours  ride,  before  we  entered  the 
mountains,  the  scenery  was  grand.  While  there  was  some 
level  bottom-land  along  the  river,  in  every  direction  moun- 
tains were  rising  above  mountains,  and  peaks  above  peaks, 
up  to  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow.  These  mountains  are 
not  so  much  in  chains,  as  of  conical  forms,  with  bases  in 
most  instances  small  in  proportion  to  their  height.  So 
much  sublimity  and  grandeur,  combined  with  so  much  va- 
riety, is  rarely  presented  to  view.  Horizontal  strata,  with 
interchanges  of  white,  green,  red,  and  brown,  were  similar; 
to  those  seen  yesterday  ; and  in  one  place,  for  more  than  a 
mile,  a vertical  front  was  presented,  facing  the  south-west,  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty,  and  two  hundred  feet  high,  restihg  up-. 
on  a base  of  conglomerated  rock.  The  stones  of  which  it  is 
composed  are  round,  of  primitive  origin,  cemented'  with 
marly  clay,  and  of  the  various  colors  already  mentioned. 
The  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  studded  with  dark  basalt. 

After  leaving  Salmon  river  we  traversed  a dreary,  nar- 
row, and  winding  course  for  several  hours,  until  an  open 
space  spread  out  before  us.  Here  I beheld  what  appeared 
at  a distance  like  a village  of  thirty  or  forty  houses  which 
the  fire  had  desolated,  leaving  the  decayed,  broken,  and 
tottering  chimneys  yet  standing.  On  a nearer  approach 
they  proved  to  be  masses  of  slaty  rock,  ten,  twenty,  and 
even  forty  feet  in  height.  The  firm  and  impenetrable  tex- 
ture of  their  material  preserves  them  from  being  crumbled 
to  a level  with  the  earth  around  them. 

From  this  place  we  turned  more  westerly,  and  passed  a 


116 


THE  ELASTIC  PINE. 


high  mountain,  parts  of  which  are  very  steep,  and  encamped 
in  a valley  by  a stream  of  crystal  water. 

On  the  17th,  we  pursued  our  journey  over  high  moun- 
tains, which,  in  some  places  were  intersected  by  deep  ra- 
vines, very  difficult  to  be  passed.  Encamped  in  a grove 
of  large  Norway  pines. 

September  18th.  The  villages  of  Indians  make  slow  pro- 
gress in  traveling,  and  being  desirous  to  expedite  my  jour- 
ney to  some  of  the  posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  I 
took  ten  Indians  and  went  forward,  leaving  the  remainder 
to  follow  at  their  leisure.  We  passed  over  a mountain  six 
thousand  feet  high,  occupying  more  than  half  a day  to 
arrive  at  the  summit.  These  mountains  are  covered  with 
woods,  excepting  small  portions,  which  are  open  and  furnish 
grass  for  our  horses.  The  woods  are  composed  mainly  of 
fir,  spruce,  Norway  pine,  and  a new  species  of  pine.  The 
leaves  of  this  new  species  resemble  those  of  pitch  pine, 
growing  in  bunches  at  the  ends  of  the  limbs,  but  are  shorter 
and  smaller ; the  bark  and  the  body  of  the  tree  resemble 
the  tamarack  ; the  wood  is  firm  and  very  elastic.  On  ac- 
count of  this  last  and  peculiar  property,  I have  called  it  the 
elastic  pine.  It  grows  very  tall  and  straight,  and  without 
branches  except  near  the  top.  These  pines  would  undoubt- 
edly make  excellent  masts  and  spars  for  shipping.  On  ex- 
periments which  I made,  I found  it  difficult  to  break  sticks 
an  inch  in  diameter.  After  passing  part  of  the  way  down 
this  mountain,  we  stopped  for  the  night. 

We  arose  early  on  the  19th,  and  commenced  our  day’s 
labor,  and  by  diligence  went  more  than  twice  the  distance 
than  when  we  were  with  the  village.  We  were  much  an- 
noyed by  trees  that  had  fallen  across  the  trail.  Encamped 
upon  the  south-east  side  of  a high  mountain,  where  there 


REFLECTIONS. 


117 


was  a large  opening,  a spring  of  water,  and  a good  supply 
of  grass  for  our  horses. 

Sabbath,  20th.  We  continued  in  the  same  encampment. 
I expressed  my  wish  to  the  chief,  that  the  day  should  be 
spent  religiously,  and  that  he  should  communicate  to  his 
men,  as  well  as  he  was  able,  the  scripture  truths  he  had 
learned.  This  was  faithfully  done  on  his  part,  and  he 
prayed  with  them  with  much  apparent  devotion.  I was 
interested  to  see  how  readily  they  were  disposed  to  obey  to 
the  extent  of  their  knowledge,  and  I was  affected  with  the 
thought  that  so  few  were  willing  to  come  and  teach  these 
benighted  minds.  After  they  had  closed  their  worship,  I 
sang  a hymn  and  prayed,  and  conversed  with  them. 

The  inflammation  in  my  head  continuing,  I bled  myself 
copiously,  which  reduced  my  pulse  for  awhile,  but  increased 
my  weakness,  so  that  I could  walk  only  a few  rods  without 
much  fatigue. 

Sometimes,  amidst  all  the  evidences  of  God’s  mercy  to 
me,  I found  my  heart  sinking  in  despondency,  and  was 
ready  to  say,  I shall  perish  in  these  wild,  cold  mountains. 
It  seemed,  that  such  was  my  loss  of  strength,  and  I was  be- 
coming so  emaciated,  that  I could  not  endure  the  fatigue  of 
traveling  eight  days  longer  over  these  mountains,  which 
are  on  an  average  about  six  thousand  feet  high  ; and  as 
they  range  north  and  south,  with  only  very  narrow  valleys 
between,  and  our  course  was  only  a little  north  of  west,  we 
were  constantly  ascending  and  descending  ; and  we  could 
not  discontinue  our  journey  Tor  the  w^ant  of  provisions. 
The  thought  that  I must  fail  of  accomplishing  the  object  of 
my  mission,  and  close  my  life  without  a sympathising  friend 
with  whom  I could  converse  and  pray ; and  be  buried  in 

these  solitary  mountains,  filled  me  with  a gloom,  which  L 

11* 


118 


A CURTOSITY. 


knew  was  wrong.  My  judgment  was  clear,  but  I could 
not  make  it  influence  the  feelings  of  my  heart.  At  night  I 
sometimes  thought  a pillow  desirable,  upon  which  to  lay  my 
aching,  throbbing  head,  but  my  portmanteau  was  a very 
good  substitute,  and  I rested  quietly  upon  the  ground,  and 
every  morning  arose  refreshed  by  sleep. 

Monday,  21st.  At  an  early  hour  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney, and  our  horses  being  recruited  with  the  rest  and  good 
fare  they  had  yesterday,  made  a long  day’s  journey.  I 
had  noticed  the  mountain  over  which  we  passed  to-day, 
which  is  about  seven  thousand  feet  high,  two  days  before 
we  arrived  at  the  top  ; and  queried  in  my  mind  whether 
Charlie,  my  guide,  would  not  depart  in  this  instance  from 
the  common  custom  of  the  Indians,  which  is  to  pass  over 
the  highest  parts  of  mountains,  and  to  descend  into  the  low-, 
est  valleys. 

But  we  passed  the  highest  point,  excepting  one  peak,, 
which  is  nearly  perpendicular,  and  rises  like  an  immense 
castle  or  pyramid.  It  is  composed  of  basalt;  and  around 
it  volcanic  rocks  lie  scattered  in  great  profusion.  At  the 
base  there  are  also  excavations,  around  and  below  which 
there  is  a large  quantity  of  lava.  This  is  a granite  moun- 
tain, most  of  which  is  in  its  natural  state.  The  way  by 
which  I calculated  the  height  of  these  mountains  is,  that 
some  of  them  are  tipped  with  perpetual  snow  ; and  as  eight  - 
thousand  feet,  in  latitude  42°,  is  the  region  of  perpetual 
snow,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  as  these  do  not  vary  greatly 
from  each  other,  that  they  average  six  thousand  feet. 

I was  much  interested  with  a curiosity  upon  this  moun- 
tain, which  was  two  granite  rocks,  each  weighing  many 
tons,  placed  one  upon  the  other,  like  the  parts  of  an  hour 
glass.  It  was  wonderful,  how  nicely  the  uppermost  one 


INDIAN  SIMPLICITY. 


119 


was  balanced  upon  the  other.  It  would  seem*-  that  a puff 
of  wind  would  blow  it  off  its  centre.  Charlie,  the  chief, 
seeing  me  one  day  examining  minerals,  with  a magnifying 
glass,  said,  “ these  white  men  know  every  thing.  They 
know  what  rocks  are  made  of,  they  know  how  to  make  iron, 
and  how  to  make  watches,  and  how  to  make  the  needle  al- 
ways point  to  the  north.”  They  had  seen  a compass  be- 
fore, and  when  I showed  them  mine,  they  said,  “ that  would 
keep  me  from  getting  lost.”  A waterfall  was  seen  de- 
scending down  a high  point  of  this  mountain,  which,  by  its 
continual  foaming,  looked  like  a white  belt  girding  its  side. 

Left  our  encampment,  on  the  22d,  at  an  early  hour  and 
continued  our  mountainous  journey.  Parts  of  the  way  the 
ascent  and  descent  was  at  an  angle  of  45°,  and  in  some 
places  even  more  steep  ; sometimes  on  the  verge  of  dizzy 
precipices ; sometimes  down  shelves  of  rocks  where  my 
Indian  horse  would  jump  from  one  to  another,  and  in  other 
places  would  brace  himself  upon  all  fours  and  slide  down. 
I had  become  so  weak  that  I could  not  walk  on  foot,  but 
was  obliged  to  keep  upon  his  back.  Frequently  between 
the  mountains  there  would  be  only  space  enough  for  a rush- 
ing stream  of  the  purest  water  to  find  its  way ; the  bank  on 
one  side  of  which  would  terminate  the  descent  of  one  moun- 
tain, and  the  other  bank  commence  the  ascent  of  another. 
The  question  often  arose  in  my  mind,  can  this  section  of 
country  ever  be  inhabited,  unless  these  mountains  shall  be 
brought  low,  and  these  valleys  shall  be  exalted?  But 
they  may  be  designed  to  perpetuate  a supply  of  wood  for 
the  wide-spread  prairies  ; and  they  may  contain  mines  of 
treasures,  which,  when  wrought,  will  need  these  forests  for 
fuel,  and  these  rushing  streams  for  water  power.  Roads 
may  be  constructed  running  north  and  south,  so  that  trans- 


120 


MOUNTAIN  LAKES, 


portations  may  be  made  south  to  the  Salmon  river,  and  north 
to  the  Coos-coots-ke.* 

After  a fatiguing  day’s  march,  we  encamped  in  a low 
stony  place  where  there  was  but  little  grass,  for  the  want  of 
which  some  of  our  horses  strayed  away.  Our  men  killed  a 
deer,  which  was  a very  agreeable  exchange  for  dried  buffaloi 

The  mountains,  over  which  we  made  our  way  on  the  23d, 
were  of  primitive  formation,  with  the  exception  of  some  parts 
which  were  volcanic.  Granite  and  mica  slate  predomina- 
ted. In  one  place  there  were  immense  quantities  of  granite, 
covering  more  than  a hundred  acres,  in  a broken  state,  as 
though  prepared  for  making  walls,  mostly  in  cubic  forms. 
In  some  places  the  change  from  granite,  in  its  natural  state, 
to  amygdaloid,  was  so  gradual,  that  it  would  be  difficult  to 
say  where  the  one  ended  and  the  other  began  ; like  the 
change  from  day  to  night.  While  riding  along  upon  a nar- 
row ridge  of  this  mountain,  I saw  two  small  lakes  a little 
down  the  sides ; one  on  the  right  hand,  which  appeared  to 
be  very  black,  and  the  other  upon  the  left  was  very  yellow 
with  sulphur,  issuing  from  a spring  in  the  mountain  side. 
These  two  lakes  were  directly  opposite  each  other,  and  not 
far  distant.  I should  have  examined  them  more  minutely, 
had  my  strength  permitted  me  to  go  down  to  them,  and  again 
ascend  to  where  I must  have  left  my  horse.  There  was 
also  much  in  the  scenery  around  to  admire  ; mountain  rising 
above  mountain,  and  precipice  above  precipice. 

We  spent  the  night  in  a valley,  where  there  was  a small 
meadow,  well  supplied  with  grass.  The  woods  around 


* The  name  of  this  river  in  the  journal  of  Clarke  and  Lewis,  and  in 
all  other  writings  I have  seen,  is  written  Coos-coos-kee.  This  signi- 
fies the  water  water.  But  Coos-coots-ke  signifies  the  little  water,. 
Coos,  water  coots,  little  ke,  the.  The  little  river. 


NEW  SPECIES  OF  TREES. 


121 


were  very  dense,  composed  mostly  of  the  new  species  of  pine, 
which  here  were  very  tall  and  straight,  not  however  very 
large  in  diameter.  The  neighborhood  of  beaver  was  indi- 
cated by  the  mud  dam,  and  by  the  barked  willows  on  the 
stream.  The  Indians  brought  in  a wolverine  which  they 
killed. 

Took  an  early  departure,  on  the  24th,  from  our  encamp- 
ment, and  made  good  progress  through  the  day.  About  the 
middle  of  the  day,  we  came  where  we  could  look  forward 
without  the  sight  being  obstructed  by  mountains,  and  it  was 
pleasant  to  have  a prospect  opening  into  the  wide  world. 
We  continued  to  descend,  until  we  came  into  a valley  of 
considerable  extent,  through  which  flows  a large  branch  of 
the  Coos-coots-ke.  Found  to-day  a new  species  of  elder, 
which  grows  five  or  six  inches  in  diameter,  and  from  ten  to 
twenty  feet  high,  bearing  berries  which  are  blue  and  plea- 
sant to  the  taste.  Kentuc  caught  some  fine  trout. 

Here  was  a band  of  horses,  belonging  to  the  Nez  Perces, 
which  they  left  last  spring.  They  were  in  fine  order.  It 
is  remarkable  that  their  horses  do  not  wander  far  from 
where  they  are  left,  although  there  are  no  fences  to  inclose 
them.  Here  some  of  the  Indians  changed  their  horses  and 
took  fresh  ones,  relieving  those  which  were  worn  down  with 
journeying. 

On  the  25th,  we  pursued  our  course  down  this  fertile  val- 
ley,  until  one  in  the  afternoon,  when,  contrary  to  my  ex- 
pectations, we  left  this  branch  of  the  Coos-coots-ke,  which 
was  too  much  of  a northerly  direction,  and  ascended  another 
high  mountain,  densely  covered  with  woods.  Among  the 
largest  trees  is  a new  species  of  fir,  single  leafed,  the  bark 
thick  and  rough  like  the  bark  of  hemlock,  but  the  balsam  is 
the  same  as  the  compo^  fir.  I saw  more  birds  this  val- 


122 


A RARE  ANIMAL. 


ley,  than  in  all  the  country  through  which  I had  passed 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ; robins  in  great  numbers, 
the  magpie,  and  with  them  a new  species  of  bird  about  as 
large  as  the  magpie,  its  color  uniformly  a dull  red,  some- 
what resembling  chocolate.  Thermometer  stood  at  54°. 

On  the  26th,  we  proceeded  but  about  four  hours  on  our 
way,  and  encamped  on  the  side  of  a mountain  near  its  sum- 
mit ; the  distance  to  another  suitable  place  for  our  horses 
over  Sabbath,  being  too  great.  Saw  to-day  a new  species 
of  animal,  such  as  I never  saw  before.  It  was  about  as 
large  as  a martin,  and  probably  of  that  genus.  Its  color 
was  a bright  orange  red,  resembling  a live  coal  of  fire  ; its  fur 
appeared  to  be  fine  ; its  head  round  and  large  ; its  eyes  black, 
prominent,  and  very  piercing.  I was  forward  of  my  Indians, 
and  when  it  saw  me,  it  sprang  about  eight  feet  up  a tree, 
ran  part  of  the  way  up,  but  appeared  afraid  to  ascend  higher. 
Attempts  were  made  to  obtain  it,  but  without  success.  An 
Indian  hit  it  with  an  arrow,  but  did  not  kill  it,  and  it  came 
down  and  escaped.  I saw  in  these  mountains,  a new  vari- 
ety of  striped  squirrel,  only  about  half  as  large  as  those 
found  in  the  United  States ; and  another  kind,  in  every  re- 
spect resembling  the  red  squirrel,  but  in  color.  It  is  nearly 
black,  excepting  its  under  parts,  which  are  rufous,  or  red- 
dish yellow.  Also  a new  species  of  pheasant,  if  it  may  be 
called  a pheasant.  It  is  much  smaller  than  the  common- 
species  ; somewhat  lighter  colored  and  more  spotted  ; its 
habits  are  gregarious  like  the  common  quail.  It  was  re- 
markably tame,  as  if  unacquainted  with  enemies ; and 
when  assailed  with  stones  by  the  Indians,  appeared  to  be 
amazed,  and  made  scarcely  any  effort  to  escape.  Its  flesh 
was  very  good,  and  furnished  an  additional  supply  to  our 
waning  stock  of  provisions. 


a chief’s  anxiety. 


123 


Sabbath,  27th.  We  continued  in  our  encampment.  My 
health  was  no  better — sweat  profusely  last  night,  and  yet 
the  inflammation  was  increasing — took  from  my  arm  a pint 
of  blood,  which,  while  it  weakened,  gave  me  relief. 

We  had  religious  services  both  in  the  morning  and  after- 
noon of  this  day,  as  last  Sabbath.  Charlie  prays  every 
morning  and  evening  with  his  men,  and  asks  a blessing 
when  they  eat.  In  the  afternoon,  he,  with  Compo,  my  in- 
terpreter, came  and  sat  by  me,  and  said,  “ we  are  now  near 
our  country,  and  when  we  come  into  it,  I wish  you  to  look 
over  it  and  see  if  it  is  good  for  missionaries  to  live  in.  I 
know  but  little  about  God — my  people  know  but  little — I 
wish  my  people  to  know  more  about  God.”  He  said  he 
wished  to  talk  with  me  much  more,  and  was  sorry  I had  not 
a better  qualified  interpreter. 

Monday,  28th,  my  health  was  improved,  and  we  made  a 
long  day’s  march  and  emerged  from  the  mountains  about 
two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  Not  finding  water  as  we  ex- 
pected, we  were  obliged  to  travel  on  until  near  night,  when 
we  came  to  another  branch  of  the  Coos-coots-ke,  at  which  we 
found  several  lodges  of  Nez  Perce  Indians.  A salute  was 
fired,  and  then  we  were  welcomed  with  a ceremonious,  but 
hearty  shaking  of  hands.  They  feasted  us  with  excellent 
dried  salmon,  for  which  I made  them  some  small  presents, 
I was  rejoiced  to  find  myself  safely  through  the  Salmon 
river  mountains,  and  convalescent.  These  mountains  were 
far  more  difficult  to  pass  than  the  Rocky  Mountains,  as  we 
could  not  take  advantage  of  any  valley,  but  one  in  which 
we  journeyed  only  two-thirds  of  a day.  Excepting  in  the 
middle  of  the  days,  the  atmosphere  was  cold,  and  frequently 
ice  was  formed  during  the  night.  It  was  a favor  that  we 
had  no  snow,  which  often  falls  upon  the  tops  of  these  moun- 


124 


MEETING  WITH  INDIANS. 


tains  very  early  in  the  autumn ; nor  had  we  any  storms,  or 
unpleasant  weather  in  our  passage.  Frequently  heavy 
gales  of  winds  sweep  through  these  mountains,  and  prostrate 
parts  of  the  forests ; but  we  had  none  to  endanger  us. 

On  the  29th,  we  proceeded  down  this  branch  more  than 
half  the  day,  and  found  the  soil  black  and  good,  well  cov- 
ered with  grass,  but  dried  into  hay  by  the  summer  drouth. 
Here,  as  on  most  prairies,  there  is  much  want  of  wood, 
there  being  but  little  besides  what  is  found  along  the  streams 
of  water.  This  country  continues  to  be  volcanic,  as  is 
evinced  by  the  abundance  of  lava  and  basalt.  Came  at 
noon  to  six  lodges  of  Indians,  who  welcomed  us  with  the 
same  friendly  expressions,  as  those  did  where  we  encamped 
last  night.  We  left  the  branch  of  the  Coos-coots-ke  and 
ascended  westerly  to  the  upper  prairies,  which  are  as  fertile 
as  the  lower,  and  do  not  suffer  more  with  the  drouth.  After 
a long  and  fatiguing  ride  over  these  prairies,  we  descended 
into  a deep  gulf,  almost  enclosed  with  perpendicular  walls 
of  basalt ; in  the  bottom  of  which,  we  found  a large  spring 
of  water,  where  we  encamped. 

Arose  very  early  on  the  30th,  set  forward,  and  made  good 
progress,  considering  the  exhausted  state  of  our  horses. 
Most  of  the  streams  were  dried  up,  and  one,  which  is 
generally  large,  and  where  we  intended  to  have  arrived  last 
night,  was  wholly  destitute  of  water  and  grass.  Ascend- 
ing out  of  this  gulf,  we  found  toward  the  summit  of  the 
high  prairie,  a good  spring  of  water,  with  sufficiency  of 
grass,  where  we  refreshed  ourselves  at  noon.  The  horses, 
contrary  to  my  expectations,  preferred  the  dried  grass  to 
the  green.  In  the  afternoon,  we  went  through  a section  of 
country  well  supplied  with  woods,  chiefly  made  up  of  yellow 
pine  and  white  oak ; where  much  of  the  soil  appeared  to 


LEWIS  RIVER . 


125 


be  very  good.  Towards  night  we  came  to  a stream  of 
water  running  west,  where  we  encamped.  Thermometer 
82°  at  noon. 

Thursday,  October  1st.  Arose  early  with  substantially 
better  health,  for  which  I cannot  be  too  thankful.  After 
travelling  a few  miles,  we  came  to  several  lodges  of  Nez 
Perces,  who  gave  us  their  kind  welcome,  and  seemed,  as 
at  the  other  lodges,  much  pleased  to  see  their  first  chief. 
They  manifested  the  same  feelings  on  learning  who  I was, 
and  the  object  of  my  coming  into  their  country,  as  their 
countrymen  did  whom  we  met  at  the  rendezvous.  With 
these  Indians,  I left  two  of  my  horses,  which  were  too  much 
exhausted  with  the  fatigues  of  our  long  journey  to  proceed 
any  farther.  I had  fears  that  they  would  not  endure  the 
deprivations  of  the  coming  winter,  without  any  shelter  from 
the  cold  and  storms,  and  with  nothing  to  eat,  except  what 
they  could  find  upon  the  prairies. 

We  arrived,  two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  at  the  Lewis 
branch  of  the  Columbia  river,  near  the  confluence  of  the 
Coos-coots-ke.  Though  this  is  a large  river,  yet  on  account 
of  the  summer’s  drouth  there  is  less  water  flowing  down 
its  channel  than  I anticipated. 

A squalid  looking  Indian  took  us  over  the  ferry  in  a ca- 
noe, which  appeared  as  weather-beaten  as  himself,  and 
reminded  me  of  fabled  Charon  and  his  cerulean  boat. 

This  country  differs  much  from  what  I had  expected ; 
for  while  the  soil  is  generally  good,  and  furnishes  a supply 
for  grazing,  yet  there  is  such  want  of  summer  rains,  that 
some  kinds  of  grain  cannot  flourish,  especially  Indian  corn. 
The  crops  sown  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  or  very  early  in  the 
spring,  would  probably  be  so  far  advanced  before  the  seve- 
rity of  the  drouth,  that  they  would  do  well.  In  general 

12 


126 


GEOLOGY v 


there  is  a great  want  of  wood  for  building,  fencing  and 
fuel ; but  at  the  confluence  of  these  rivers  a supply  may 
be  brought  down  the  Coos-coots-ke.  This  place  combines 
many  advantages  for  a missionary  station. 

I began  to  doubt  the  correctness  of  the  statements  of 
some  travelers,  in  regard  to  the  great  numbers  of  wild  horses, 
and  the  immense  multitudes  of  wolves,  which  they  say  they 
saw  this  side  the  Rocky  Mountains ; for  as  yet  I had  seen 
no  wild  horses,  and  only  a very  feiv  wolves.  Encamped 
upon  the  west  bank  of  Lewis  river,  or  as  it  is  more  com- 
monly called,  the  Snake  river. 

On  the  2d,  we  arose  early,  but  were  detained  some  time, 
before  all  our  horses  could  be  found.  We  started  about 
eight,  and  proceeded  three  hours  down  the  river  to  a place 
where  it  takes  a northerly  bend,  through  a section  of  moun- 
tains which  are  difficult  to  be  passed.  Our  direct  course  to 
Walla  Walla  being  west  north-west,  we  here  left  the  river 
and  followed  a small  stream  up  a valley  nearly  to  its  source. 
The  section  of  country  through  which  we  journeyed  to-day 
was  mountainous.  One  part  of  the  river  along  which  we 
traveled  was  walled  up  with  volcanic  rocks.  The  lowest 
part  was  amygdaloid,  about  thirty  feet  high  and  very  cellu- 
lar, terminating  in  a narrow  horizontal  plain.  Above  this 
is  superimposed  columnar  basalt ; the  columns  of  which 
are  regular  pentagons,  varying  from  two  to  four  feet  in  di- 
ameter, rising  forty  feet  high,  perpendicular  excepting  in 
one  place,  where  they  were  a little  inclined.  Above  this 
formation  of  columns  there  was  a stratum  of  volcanic  stones 
and  disintegrated  basalt,  of  some  six  or  eight  feet  thickness, 
lying  in  a confused  state.  Then  upon  this  another  section 
of  basalt  and  amygdaloid  of  fifty  feet  depth,  and  so  on  to 
the  height  of  three  hundred  feet,  nearly  perpendicular. 


CAMMAS  ROOT. 


127 


The  pentagons  are  as  regularly  formed,  and  have  much 
the  same  appearance,  as  those  composing  the  Giant’s  cause- 
way in  Ireland.  From  the  best  observations  I could  make, 

I was  led  to  conclude  that  the  different  sections  were  raised, 
at  different  periods  of  time,  by  widely  extended  subterranean 
fires.  The  basalt  in  this  place,  and  also  in  almost  all  other 
places,  which  I have  yet  seen,  is  of  very  dark  color,  contain- 
ing augite,  or  black  oxyd  of  iron  ; and  is  what  Clarke  and 
Lewis,  and  those  who  have  copied  from  them,  have  called 
black  rocks. 

Saturday,  3d.  We  took  an  early  departure  from  our  en- 
campment. We  had  through  the  day,  an  uncommonly 
high  wind  from  the  west,  a pleasant  sun  and  serene  atmos- 
phere. We  have  had  no  rain  since  the  12th  of  July,  while 
on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains,  and  not  more  than  five 
cloudy  days.  The  water  this  side  the  Rocky  Mountains 
is  excellent,  and  no  country  can  possess  a climate  more 
conducive  to  health.  After  passing  over  a somewhat  hilly 
country  well  covered’  with  grass-,  we  encamped  for  the 
night,  and  for  the  Sabbath,  in  a fertile  vale  upon  an  upper 
branch  of  the  Walla  Walla  river.  Here  we  found  three 
lodges  of  Nez  Perees  who  were  out  on  a hunt  for  deer,  and 
the  women  were  gathering  cammas  roots.  This  root  in 
some  degree  resembles  in  taste  and  nutritive  properties  the 
sweet  potato,  and  constitutes  a large  item  of  food  for  the  In- 
dians throughout  a considerable  section  of  country,  this  side 
Salmon  river  and  Salmon  river  mountains.  The  common 
tokens  of  friendship  were  interchanged,  and  they  presented 
us  a share  of  such  food  as  they  themselves  had. 

Sabbath,  Oct.  4th.  We  had  public  worship,  at  which  all 
the  men,  women  and  children  of  three  lodges  attended. 
What  there  was  of  a truly  spiritual  nature  in  our  worship, 


128 


VALLEY  OF  THE  WALLA  WALLA. 


was  known  to  the  Searcher  of  hearts,  but  there  was  the  ap- 
pearance of  devotion,  and  good  attention  was  paid  to  what 
was  said.  It  is  affecting  to  see  the  anxiety  these  Indians 
manifest  to  know  what  they  must  do  to  please  God,  and  to 
obtain  salvation. 

Employed  part  of  the  day  in  reading  Vincent’s  Explana- 
tion of  the  catechism.  This  is  an  excellent  compendium 
of  divinity,  and  is  too  much  neglected  in  families  and  Sab- 
bath Schools. 

Decamped  early,  on  the  5th,  and  pursued  our  journey 
down  the  Walla  Walla  river,  through  a beautiful  valley  of 
thirty  miles  in  extent,  parts  of  which  are  overgrown  with 
the  common  trees  and  shrubs  of  such  locations,  interspersed 
with  wild  roses.  The  prairie  hen,  the  avoset,  the  robin, 
and  varieties  of  smaller  birds,  seem  to  have  selected  this  as 
a favorite  retreat ; while  the  animals,  which  we  have  been 
seeking  for  game,  desert  this  delightful  place  and  find  their 
dwellings  on  more  rugged  tracts.  This  spot  impressed  me 
favorably  as  the  situation  for  the  missionaries  who  should 
succeed  me,  and  in  every  thing  but  its  populousness  would 
furnish  advantages  beyond  any  I have  as  yet  seen.  Indi- 
ans of  different  tribes  border  on,  and  around,  this  valley, 
and  the  location  is  therefore  less  central  for  any  one  of 
them.  They  might,  however,  be  brought  by  degrees  to  col- 
lect and  settle  down  around  a mission  station,  when  once  it 
should  be  established. 

October  6th.  We  arose  early  and  commenced  our  jour- 
ney with  the  animating  hope  of  reaching  Walla  Walla,  and 
of  seeing  civilized  people  before  noon.  Ascended  the  bluffs 
and  passed  over  an  undulating  prairie  of  good  soil,  leaving 
Walla  Walla  river  to  our  left.  As  we  drew  near  the  Co- 
lumbia river  the  soil  became  more  and  more  sandy.  Before 


FRIENDLY  RECEPTION. 


129 


we  arrived  at  the  fort,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  seeing 
cows  and  other  cattle,  in  fine  order,  feeding  upon  the  bottom- 
land ; and  the  sight  was  not  only  novel,  after  having  been 
so  long  from  civilized  life,  but  the  more  interesting  because 
unexpected.  As  we  came  near  the  fort,  the  Indians  fired 
their  customary  salute,  and  then  rushed  forward  to  the  gate. 
Mr.  P.  C.  Pambrun,  the  superintendent,  met  us,  and  gave 
me  a kind  welcome.  I never  felt  more  joy  in  entering  a 
habitation  of  civilized  men,  whose  language  was  not  strange. 
I felt  that  I had  cause  of  thankfulness,  that  God,  in  his  great 
mercy,  and  by  his  watchful  providence,  had  brought  me  in 
safety  and  with  restored  health  to  this  place.  Soon  I was 
invited  into  another  apartment  to  breakfast ; and  it  was  truly 
pleasant  again  to  sit  in  a chair , at  a table  spread  with  fur- 
niture, and  such  luxuries  as  bread  and  butter,  sugar  and 
milk,  of  which  I had  been  deprived  for  about  three  months. 


12* 


130 


FORT  WALLA  WALLA. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Description  of  Walla  Walla — the  kind  treatment  of  the  Indians  by  the 
Hudson  Bay  company — leave  Walla  Walla  for  fort  Vancouver — lo- 
quacious orator — rapids — introduction  to  the  Cayuse  Indians — morn- 
ing prospect — long  rapids — Volcanic  mountains — trial  o{  Indian 
generosity — arrival  at  the  falls  of  the  Columbia  river — rousing  ef- 
fects of  oratory — La  Dalles — Boston  trading  company — remarkable 
subsidence — Cascades — Chenooks  are  the  Fiatheads  and  Nez  Perces 
— dangerous  rapids — Indian  burying  places — Pillar  rock — interest- 
ing waterfall — sea  fowl — arrive  at  fort  Vancouver. 

Fort  Walla  Walla  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Columbia  river,  ten  miles  below  the  confluence  of  the  Co- 
lumbia and  Lewis’  river,  which  last  is  commonly  called, 
by  the  people  belonging  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  Nez 
Perce  river;  and  one  mile  above  the  Walla  Walla  river, 
in  latitude  46°  2',  longitude  119°  30'.  Two  miles  below 
the  fort  there  is  a range  of  mountains  running  north  and 
south,  which,  though  not  high,  are  yet  of  considerable  mag- 
nitude ; and  where  the  Columbia  passes  through,  it  is  walled 
up  on  both  sides  with  basalt,  in  many  places  three  hundred 
feet  perpendicular  height.  The  soil,  for  considerable  dis- 
tance around,  with  the  exception  of  some  strips  of  bottom- 
land, is  sandy,  and  for  the  want  of  summer  rains  is  not  pro- 
ductive. This  establishment  is  not  only  supplied  with  the 
necessaries  of  life,  but  also  with  many  of  its  conveniences. 
They  have  cows,  horses,  hogs,  fowls,  &c.  and  cultivate 
corn,  potatoes,  and  a variety  of  garden  vegetables  ; and 
might  enlarge  these  and  other  productions  to  a great  extent. 


HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY. 


131 


They  also  keep  on  hand  dry  goods  and  hardware,  not  only 
for  their  own  convenience,  but  also  for  Indian  trade.  Most 
of  the  year  they  have  a good  supply  of  fish,  and  an  abun- 
dance of  salmon  of  the  first  quality. 

I arrived  here  in  six  months  and  twenty-three  days  after 
leaving  home — forty-five  days  from  Rendezvous — and  twen- 
ty from  entering  Salmon  river  mountains. 

Wednesday,  7th.  Continued  in  this  place.  Settled  with 
my  interpreter,  gave  presents  to  my  Indians,  and  made  ar- 
rangements for  leaving  to-morrow,  in  a canoe  propelled  by 
Indians  belonging  to  the  Walla  Walla  tribe,  for  Fort  Van- 
couver, which  is  two  hundred  miles  down  the  Columbia. 

Thus  I am  putting  myself,  without  fear,  into  the  hands  of 
Indians,  where  a few  years  ago  an  escort  of  fifty  men  was 
necessary  for  safety,  and  shall  have  to  pass  places  which 
have  been  battle  grounds  between  traders  and  Indians. 

The  gentlemen  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
are  worthy  of  commendation  for  their  good  treatment  of 
the  Indians,  by  which  they  have  obtained  their  friendship 
and  confidence,  and  also  for  the  efforts,  which  some  few  of 
them  have  made  to  instruct  those  about  them  in  the  first 
principles  of  our  holy  religion ; especially  in  regard  to 
equity,  humanity  and  morality.  This  company  is  of  long 
standing,  have  become  rich  in  the  fur  trade,  and  intend  to 
perpetuate  the  business  ; therefore  they  consult  the  prosper- 
ity of  the  Indians  as  intimately  connected  with  their  own. 
I have  not  heard  as  yet  of  a single  instance  of  any  Indians 
being  wantonly  killed  by  any  of  the  men  belonging  to  this 
company.  Nor  have  I heard  any  boasting  among  them  of 
the  satisfaction  taken  in  killing  or  abusing  Indians,  that  I 
have  elsewhere  heard. 

Thursday,  8th.  My  three  Walla  Walla  Indians  having 


132 


A VOYAGE  COMMENCED. 


got  all  things  in  readiness,  mats,  provisions,  &c.  furnished 
by  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Pambrun,  and  he  having  given  them 
their  instructions,  I went  on  board  the  canoe  at  nine  o’clock 
in  the  morning,  and  having  passed  the  usual  salutations, 
we  shoved  off,  and  gently  glided  down  the  river,  which  here 
is  three-fourths  of  a mile  wide.  I felt  myself  in  a new 
situation — my  horses  dismissed — in  a frail  canoe  upon  the 
wide  waters  of  the  Columbia,  subject  to  winds,  and  with 
rapids  and  falls  on  the  way,  and  among  stranger  Indians, 
two  hundred  miles  by  water  before  I could  expect  to  find 
any  white  men ; to  pass  through  several  nations  whose  lan- 
guages are  entirely  different ; yet  the  change  from  horse- 
back, for  months  over  mountains  and  plains,  through  defiles 
and  ravines,  was  anticipated  with  satisfaction. 

My  three  Indians  were  well  acquainted  with  the  river  and 
with  the  art  of  managing  the  canoe.  One  of  them  under- 
stood the  Nez  Perce  language  tolerably  well,  was  very  lo- 
quacious and  vain,  and  wished  to  be  thought  a man  of  im- 
portance. He  told  me  he  was  to  do  the  talking,  and  the 
other  two  were  to  do  as  he  should  direct.  On  account  of  his 
important  and  loquacious  habits,  I called  him  my  orator. 
One  of  the  other  two,  who  took  the  stern  and  steered  the 
canoe,  was  a stout,  brawny,  savage  looking  man,  excepting 
the  expression  of  his  countenance,  which  was  indicative  of 
intelligence  and  good  nature.  The  third,  who  took  the  bow, 
was  an  able  and  well  disposed  young  man.  The  channel 
through  the  volcanic  mountain  a little  below  the  fort,  is  one 
of  the  wonders  of  natuf  e ; how  it  was  formed  through  those 
immensely  hard  basaltic  rocks  to  the  depth  of  about  three 
hundred  feet,  and  for  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles, 
remains  unexplained.  But  my  attention  was  so  much 
taken  up  with  the  boiling  eddies  and  the  varying  currents, 


CAYUSE  INDIANS. 


133 


that  I did  not  take  those  observations  which  under  different 
circumstances  might  have  been  made,  and  which  the  scenery 
and  phenomena  demanded.  In  one  place,  as  we  passed  out 
of  the  mountain  channel,  the  river  ran  so  rapidly  over  a 
rocky  bed,  and  the  water  was  so  broken,  that  1 thought  it 
unsafe  to  continue  in  the  canoe,  and  requested  my  Indians 
to  put  me  ashore.  My  talking  Indian  said,  u tois ,”  (good.) 
I told  him,  waiitu  tois , kapseis , not  good,  but  bad.  But  still 
he  said,  tois,  tois,  and  I concluded,  that  they  would  not  de- 
cline putting  me  on  shore,  if  there  was  any  particular  dan- 
ger. The  man  at  the  stern  put  off  into  the  middle  of  the 
river,  where  the  water  was  the  smoothest,  but  where  the 
current  was  equally  strong,  and  with  his  keen  eye  fixed  upon 
the  varying  eddies,  applied  his  brawny  arms  to  the  work ; 
and  whenever  a change  of  his  paddle  from  one  side  of  the 
canoe  was  necessary,  it  was  done  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye. 
Any  failure  of  right  management  would  have  been  disas- 
trous ; but  they  kept  the  canoe  in  the  right  direction,  and 
we  shot  down  with  such  velocity,  as,  together  with  the 
breaking  in  of  some  water,  to  cause  solicitude.  But  this 
served  to  make  the  smooth  parts,  when  we  arrived  at  them, 
more  pleasant,  and  my  mind  more  tranquil  in  regard  to 
future  dangers. 

At  two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  called  at  an  encamp- 
ment of  Cayuse  Indians  of  about  a dozen  lodges.  My  ora- 
tor, when  we  had  come  within  hearing,  announced  our  ap- 
proach and  informed  them  who  I was,  and  the  object  of  my 
tour,  and  that  they  must  prepare  to  receive  me  with  all  due 
respect — that  I was  not  a trader,  and  that  I had  not  come 
with  goods,  but  to  teach  them  how  to  worship  God.  They 
arranged  themselves  in  single  file,  the  chiefs  and  principal 
men  forward,  then  the  more  common  men,  next  the  women, 


134 


MORNING  PROSPECT. 


according  to  their  rank,  the  wives  of  chiefs,  the  old  women, 
the  young — and  then  the  children  according  to  age.  All 
things  being  made  ready,  the  salute  was  fired,  and  I landed 
and  shook  hands  with  all,  even  the  youngest  children,  many 
of  whom,  when  they  presented  the  hand,  would  turn  away 
their  faces  through  fear.  I made  them  some  presents,  and 
bought  of  them  some  dried  salmon  and  cranberries.  These 
were  the  first  cranberries  I had  seen  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  they  were  a grateful  acid.  The  Indians  ex- 
pressed much  satisfaction  in  seeing  me,  and  in  the  object  of 
my  coming  among  them.  I told  them  I could  not  explain  to 
them  what  I wished,  but  they  must  meet  me  next  spring  at 
Walla  Walla,  where  I should  have  an  interpreter,  and  then 
I would  tell  them  about  God.  After  again  shaking  hands 
with  them,  we  w^ent  on  our  way. 

At  five  o’clock  we  landed  upon  the  north  shore,  and  en- 
camped near  a large  number  of  Nez  Perce  Indians,  who 
came  about  me  with  the  tokens  of  friendship  and  kindness, 
which  characterize  their  nation.  Among  their  acts  of  kind- 
ness they  brought  me  wood,  which  in  this  section  of  the 
country  is  scarce ; and  gathered  small  bushes  and  grass  to 
make  my  bed  upon. 

October  9th.  Arose  before  day,  and  as  soon  as  any  light 
appeared,  resumed  our  voyage  down  the  river.  The  morn- 
ing was  pleasant,  the  country  around  open  and  diversified 
with  rolling  prairies  and  distant  mountain  tops  mellowed 
with  the  opening  beams  of  the  rising  sun.  It  was  a time 
for  pleasing  contemplations,  such  as  banished  all  feelings  of 
solitude,  although  no  sound  broke  upon  the  ear,  but  the  regu- 
lar timed  strokes  of  the  paddles  of  my  Indians,  who  were 
urging  forward  the  canoe  with  an  accelerated  velocity, 
greater  than  the  current  of  the  river  would  have  carried  us. 


RAPIDS. 


135 


About  the  middle  of  the  day,  the  silence  was  interrupted 
by  the  roar  of  a distant  rapid,  the  sound  of  which  continued 
to  increase,  until  the  white  breaking  water  was  presented 
to  view.  For  several  miles  the  bed  of  the  river  was  filled 
with  rocks,  and  several  rocky  islands  and  shoals,  among 
which  the  whirling  and  foaming  water  was  forcing  its  way. 
The  only  part  of  the  river,  which  presented  any  appearance 
of  safety,  was  along  near  the  south  shore.  This  had  some- 
what the  appearance  of  a wake.  My  Indians  made  no 
movement  for  landing,  but  kept  near  the  middle  of  the  river. 
On  my  expressing  some  apprehensions  of  danger,  they  point- 
ed toward  the  wake  and  said,  “ tois I pointed  forward 
and  toward  the  north  shore,  and  said,  kapseis,  bad.  They 
answered,  “ at,  kapseis and  with  the  language  of  signs 
accompanying  their  words,  told  me  they  would  keep  the 
canoe  in  the  good  water,  and  it  would  not  fill,  nor  be  drawn 
into  the  breakers.  My  confidence  in  their  skill  of  manage- 
ment being  well  established,  I made  no  objection  to  their 
going  forward,  and  in  a very  short  time  we  had  passed  the 
apparent  danger,  and  were  gliding  along  over  the  smooth 
surface  on  the  south  side  of  a large  island,  about  six  miles 
long. 

During  the  day,  the  country  around  was  comparatively 
level,  covered  with  a black  soil,  which  appears  to  have  been 
formed  by  atmospheric  agents  decomposing  the  volcanic 
substances,  which  so  generally  abound.  This  section  of 
the  country  is  well  supplied  with  grass,  which  during  the 
summer  drouth  is  converted  into  hay.  Who  can  calculate 
the  multitudes  of  cattle  and  sheep,  which  might  be  kept 
here  summer  and  winter,  with  no  other  labor  than  the  care 
of  a few  herdsmen  and  shepherds.  Encamped  upon  the 
north  side  of  the  river  among  some  sand  hills,  a little  below 


136 


HEAD  WIND. 


several  lodges  of  the  Walla  Walla  Indians,  to  whom  I had 
the  usual  and  formal  introduction. 

I was  pleased  to  find  Indians  belonging  to  different  tribes 
scattered  all  along  this  river,  living  in  harmony  without 
any  feuds  or  jealousies.  It  speaks  much  in  favor  of  their 
kind  and  peaceable  dispositions. 

On  the  10th,  we  arose  before  day,  after  a night’s  comfort- 
able rest,  and  by  the  first  breaking  light  had  our  baggage 
on  board  and  were  under  way.  Towards  the  middle  of  the 
day,  we  came  to  a more  mountainous  tract  of  country,  and 
at  a place  where  the  mountains  crossed  the  river,  there 
were  very  rocky  rapids,  but  by  winding  our  way  among 
islands  near  the  north  shore,  we  made  a safe  descent. 
About  noon  a head  wind,  which  commenced  in  the  fore  part 
of  the  day,  had  become  fresh,  and  the  waves  began  to 
multiply  their  white  caps,  so  that  it  was  dangerous  naviga- 
tion for  our  canoe,  and  we  had  to  land  and  wait  for  a more 
favorable  time.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river  under  a very  high  and  romantic  basaltic  mountain ; 
in  some  parts  near  us  the  rocky  walls  were  more  than  tw^o 
hundred  feet  in  perpendicular  height — in  one  place  hanging 
over.  In  some  places,  and  at  different  altitudes  of  this  im- 
mense wall,  there  were  cavities  of  considerable  magnitude, 
and  in  others,  wide  and  deep  fissures  ; through  one  of  which 
passes  the  road  traveled  by  pedestrians  and  those  on  horse- 
back. This  place  is  ten  miles  above  the  falls  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, which  the  Indians  call  the  turn  turn;  the  same  ex- 
pression they  use  for  the  beating  of  the  heart. 

About  a mile  above  us,  were  encamped  some  Walla  Wal- 
las, many  of  whom  came  to  my  tent  and  wished  to  enter 
into  trade  with  me,  offering  beaver  at  a low  price.  I told 
them  to  trade  was  not  my  business,  any  farther  than  to  buy 


TRIAL  OF  INDIAN  GENEROSITY. 


137 


salmon,  &c.  for  food.  My  orator  told  me  one  of  them  was 
a Meohot , a chief,  and  would  expect  a present.  As  a trial 
of  their  disposition,  I told  him  they  had  not  brought  me  any 
wood  for  a fire,  and  I would  not  give  them  any  thing  until 
they  showed  their  kindness.  But  he  said  I must  make  the 
chief  a present  and  buy  of  them  wood.  I replied,  waiitu , 
if  he  is  a chief  let  him  show  the  generosity  of  a chief. 
Very  soon  they  brought  wood,  and  a fire  was  made,  which 
I followed  with  some  presents. 

Sabbath,  11th.  Continued  in  the  same  encampment,  and 
my  heart’s  desire  was  much  excited  for  the  salvation  of 
these  poor  heathen.  There  were  a sufficient  number  here 
to  have  made  a decent  congregation  if  I had  possessed  any 
medium  of  communication.  Their  language  differs  from 
the  Nez  Perces,  so  that  I could  have  no  communication 
with  them  except  through  my  orator,  who  asked  me  if  he 
should  teach  these  Indians  what  he  had  learned  about  God 
and  his  worship.  I gave  him  permission,  though  I feared  he 
was  influenced  more  by  love  of  distinction  than  any  higher 
motive ; but  still,  if  any  true  light  should  be  imparted  to 
them,  I would  rejoice  in  it. 

I arose  the  latter  part  of  the  night  of  the  12th,  and  the 
weather  being  calm,  and  the  moon  shining  pleasantly,  we 
took  our  departure  for  the  Falls,  where  we  arrived  some 
time  before  day.  Above  the  Falls  there  is  a large  island*, 
on  the  south  side  of  which  is  a commodious  bay,  near  which 
and  upon  the  river  Be  Shutes,  which  here  unites  with  the 
Columbia,  there  is  a village  of  the  Fall  Indians  of  about 
thirty  lodges.  Here  we  landed,  and  my  talker  raised  his 
oratorical  voice  to  such  a note  as  aroused  the  whole  village, 
calling  upon  the  chiefs  to  arise,  and  with  their  people  re- 
ceive the  personage  with  him  in  due  form.  It  was  but  a 

13 


138 


LA  DALLES. 


short  time  before  their  line  was  formed,  the  first  chief  lead- 
ing the  way,  and  others  according  to  their  rank  and  age 
following,  and  the  ceremony  of  shaking  hands  was  per- 
formed ; and  all  retired  to  their  lodges  again. 

There  is  a great  want  of  neatness  among  Indians  in  gen- 
eral, but  more  especially  among  those  on  this  river,  who 
live  by  fishing. 

Here  we  left  our  canoe,  and  took  horses  and  proceeded 
by  land,  upon  the  south  side  of  the  river,  by  the  Falls,  and 
down  the  La  Dalles,  six  miles.  From  the  lower  end  of  the 
island  where  the  rapids  begin,  to  the  perpendicular  fall,  is 
about  two  miles  ; and  here  the  river  contracts,  when  the 
water  is  low,  to  a very  narrow  space,  and  with  only  a short 
distance  of  swift  water,  it  makes  its  plunge  twenty  feet  per- 
pendicular ; and  then,  after  a short  distance  of  rapids,  dash- 
ing against  the  rocks,  moves  on  in  a narrow  passage,  filled 
with  rapids  and  eddies,  among  volcanic  rocks,  called  the  La 
Dalles,  four  miles  ; and  then  spreads  out  into  a gentle  broad 
channel.  At  the  Falls  and  the  La  Dalles  below,  there  are 
several  carrying  places,  where  boats  and  canoes,  as  well  as 
baggage,  have  to  be  transported.  The  geological  forma- 
tion along  this  distance  is  singular.  With  the  exception  of 
a few  high  hills  and  bluffs,  the  shore  and  lands  around  are 
but  little  above  the  river  in  the  freshet  rise  ; and  yet  the 
channel  of  the  river  is  through  the  hardest  basalt  and  amygv 
daloid.  Has  this  channel  worn  this  solid  rock  formation  ? 
If  so,  at  what  time  ? There  is  no  appearance  of  the  chan- 
nel having  worn  perceptibly  deeper,  since  these  rocks,  from 
their  melted  state,  spread  out  into  their  present  condition, 
which  must  have  taken  place  centuries  and  centuries  ago. 
As  I have  no  confidence  in  theories  founded  upon  conjec- 
ture, nor  in  Indian  traditions^  I leave  the  subject  for  others  to 


BOSTON  TRADING  COMPANY. 


139 


tell  us  how  these  things  took  place.  Former  visiters,  among 
whom  I name  Doct.  Gardner,  a learned  English  naturalist 
whom  I saw  at  Oahu,  Sand.  Islands,  expressed  his  entire 
inability  satisfactorily  to  account  for  this  peculiar  phenom- 
enon. Nor  does  the  Indian  tradition,  that  the  Great  Wolf 
made  this,  together  with  all  the  scenery  that  delighted  my 
eye  as  I passed  down  the  river,  relieve  the  mind  of  its 
irrepressible  curiosity.  This  is  one  of  the  best  loca- 
tions for  salmon  fishing,  and  great  numbers  of  Indians 
collect  in  the  season  of  taking  them,  which  commen- 
ces the  last  of  April,  or  the  first  of  May,  and  continues 
several  months. 

At  the  lower  part  of  the  La  Dalles,  I found  Capt.  Wyeth, 
from  Boston,  with  a small  company  of  men  going  up  the 
river  to  Fort  Hall.  Capt.  Wyeth,  who  is  an  intelligent  and 
sociable  man,  had  the  charge  of  the  business  of  a company 
formed  in  Boston,  for  salmon  fishing  on  the  Columbia,  and 
for  trade  and  trapping  in  the  region  of  the  mountains.  The 
plan  of  the  company  was  to  send  a ship  annually  around 
Cape  Horn  into  Columbia  river,  to  bring  out  goods  for  trade, 
and  to  take  home  the  salmon  and  furs  which  should  be  ob- 
tained during  the  year.  It  was  expected  the  profits  on  the 
salmon  would  defray  all  common  expenses,  and  that  the 
profits  on  the  furs  would  be  clear,  and  yield  a handsome 
income.  But  thus  far  the  enterprise  has  been  attended 
with  many  disasters,  and  the  loss  of  many  lives — several 
of  the  men  were  drowned,  and  others  killed  by  Indians. 

Here  I dismissed  my  Walla  Walla  Indians  to  return,  and 
Tilkl,  the  first  chief  of  the  La  Dalles  Indians,  engaged  to 
furnish  me  with  a canoe  and  men  to  carry  me  to  Fort  Van- 
couver. Encamped  with  Capt.  Wyeth,  and  obtained  from 
him  a short  vocabulary  of  the  Chenook  language,  to  enab  le 


140 


UNUSUAL  PHENOMENON. 


me  to  do  common  business  with  the  Indians  residing  along 
on  the  lower  part  of  this  river. 

Tuesday,  13th.  I left  at  nine  o’clock  in  the  morning,  in 
the  canoe  with  three  men  furnished  by  TilkT,  and  made 
good  progress  down  the  river,  which  flows  in  a wide  and 
gentle  current.  Many  parts  of  the  way,  the  river  is  walled 
up  with  high  and  perpendicular  basalt.  At  the  La  Dalles 
commences  a wood  country,  which  becomes  more  and  more 
dense  as  we  descend,  and  more  broken  with  high  hills  and 
precipices.  I observed  a remarkable  phenomenon — trees 
standing  in  their  natural  position  in  the  river,  in  many  pla- 
ces where  the  water  is  twenty  feet  deep,  and  rising  to  high 
or  freshet  water  mark,  which  is  fifteen  feet  above  the  low 
water.  Above  the  freshet  rise,  the  tops  of  the  trees  are  de- 
cayed and  gone.  I deferred  forming  an  opinion  in  regard 
to  the  cause,  until  I should  collect  more  data.  About  the 
middle  of  the  day  a south  wind  began  to  blow,  and  contin- 
ued to  increase  until  it  became  necessary  to  go  on  shore 
and  encamp,  which  we  did  about  four  in  the  afternoon. 

On  the  14th,  we  did  not  make  much  progress  on  account 
of  wind  and  rain.  Encamped  in  a cavern  under  a large 
projecting  rock,  the  upper  part  of  which  was  formed  of  ba- 
salt, the  lower  of  pudding  stone.  Although  this  was  at 
least  six  miles  above  the  Cascades,  yet  the  roar  of  the  wa- 
ter could  be  distinctly  heard.  The  same  phenomenon  of 
trees  continued.  I paid  particular  attention  to  the  condition 
of  the  shores  of  the  river  and  adjacent  hills  and  mountains, 
to  see  if  there  were  any  escarpments  presenting  such  con- 
dition, as  would  furnish  evidence  of  their  having  descended 
by  landslips  ; but  as  there  were  no  such  appearances,  and 
the  condition  of  the  trees  was  the  same  where  there  were 
$o  hills  or  mountains  near,  I was  led  to  conjecture,  that  I 


REMARKABLE  SUBSIDENCE. 


141 


should  find  the  river  at  the  Cascades  dammed  up  with  vol- 
canic productions ; and  I was  induced  to  believe  it  would 
be  found  so,  from  the  fact,  that  the  river,  the  whole  distance 
from  the  La  Dalles,  is  wide  and  deep,  and  moves  with  a 
sluggish  current. 

On  the  15th,  the  wind  and  rain  continuing  through  the 
morning,  I did  not  leave  my  encampment  until  noon,  when 
we  set  forward  and  arrived  at  the  Cascades  at  two  o’clock 
in  the  afternoon.  The  trees,  to-day,  were  still  more  nu- 
merous, in  many  places  standing  in  deep  water,  and  we  had 
to  pick  our  way  with  the  canoe  in  some  places,  as  through 
a forest.  The  water  of  the  river  is  so  clear,  that  I had  an 
opportunity  of  examining  their  position  down  to  the  spread- 
ing roots,  and  found  them  in  the  same  condition  as  when 
standing  in  the  natural  forest.  As  I approached  the  Cas- 
cades, instead  of  finding  an  embankment  formed  from  vol- 
canic eruptions,  the  shores  above  the  falls  were  low,  and  the 
velocity  of  the  water  began  to  accelerate  tw^o-thirds  of  a 
mile  above  the  main  rapid.  On  a full  examination,  it  is 
plainly  evident  that  here  has  been  a subsidence  of  a tract  of 
land,  more  than  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  about  a mile  in 
width.  The  trees  standing  in  the  water  are  found  mostly 
towards  and  near  the  north  shore,  and  yet,  from  the  depth 
of  the  river  and  its  sluggish  movement,  I should  conclude 
the  subsidence  affected  the  whole  bed.  That  the  trees  are 
not  wholly  decayed  down  to  low  water  mark,  proves  that 
the  subsidence  is  comparatively,  of  recent  date ; and  their 
undisturbed,  natural  position,  proves  that  it  took  place  in  a 
tranquil  manner,  not  by  any  tremendous  convulsion  of  na- 
ture. The  cause  lies  concealed,  but  the  fact  is  plain. 
That  parts  of  forests  may  in  this  way  submerge,  is  evident 

from  similar  facts.  The  noted  one  on  the  eastern  coast  o.f 

13* 


142 


THE  CASCADES. 


Yorkshire  and  Lincolnshire,  England,  is  about  fifteen  feet* 
below  low  water  mark,  extending  eastward  a considerable 
distance  from  the  shore,  of  which  stumps  and  roots  are  seen 
in  their  natural  position.  So  manifest  is  the  evidence  of 
great  changes  having  taken  place  by  volcanic  power,  in 
these  regions  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  both  by  upheav- 
ing and  subsidence,  that  we  are  led  to  enquire  whether  there 
are  not  now  such  agents  in  operation,  and  upon  such  mate- 
rials, that  the  valleys  shall  be  literally  exalted,  and  the 
mountains  be  made  low,  and  waters  spring  up  in  the  deserts. 

The  Cascades,  so  called  to  distinguish  them  from  the 
Falls,  do  not  differ  materially  from  them,  except  in  the 
wild  romantic  scenery  around.  There  is  no  perpendicular 
fall,  but  the  water  concentrates,  from  its  wide  spread  form, 
to  a very  narrow  compass,  and  then  rushes  with  great  im- 
petuosity down  an  almost  perpendicular  precipice  twenty  or 
thirty  feet,  and  continues  in  a foaming  and  whirling  descent 
most  of  the  way  five  miles  farther,  where  it  meets  the  tide 
waters  from  the  Pacific  ocean.  Above  the  falls,  in  the  river, 
there  are  many  islands,  but  none  of  them  are  very  large — 
some  are  only  volcanic  rocks.  The  country  about  the  Cas- 
cades, and  many  miles  below,  is  very  mountainous,  especial- 
ly on  the  south  side.  The  volcanic  peaks  are  as  diversified 
in  their  shapes  as  they  are  numerous,  being  conical,  dentic- 
ulated, and  needle-pointed,  rising  from  one  to  fifteen  hundred 
feet.  While  imagination  generally  over-draws  her  pictures, 
nature  here  has  furnished  abundant  scope  for  all  her  powers. 

A little  above  the  Cascades,  upon  the  north  shore,  there 
is  a small  village  of  Chenooks.  These  Indians  are  the  only 
real  Flatheads  and  Nez  Perces,  or  pierced  noses,  I have 
found.  They  both  flatten  their  heads  and  pierce  their 
noses.  The  flattening  of  their  heads  is  not  so  great  a de- 


THE  PORTAGE. 


143 


formity  as  is  generally  suppossed.  From  a little  above  the 
eyes  to  the  apex  or  crown  of  the  head,  there  is  a depression, 
but  not  generally  in  adult  persons  very  noticeable.  The 
piercing  of  the  nose  is  a greater  deformity,  and  is  done  by 
inserting  two  small  tapering  white  shells,  about  two  inches 
long,  through  the  lower  part  of  the  cartilaginous  division  of 
the  nose.  These  shells  are  of  the  genus  dentalium,  they 
inhabit  the  Pacific  shore,  and  are  an  article  of  traffic  among 
the  natives.  I called  at  this  village  to  obtain  men  to  carry 
our  canoe  by  the  portage  of  the  Cascades.  They  wished  to 
engage  in  trade  with  me  in  several  articles  of  small  value, 
which  I declined,  informing  them  that  my  business  was  of 
a different  nature.  Whilst  detained,  the  daughter  of  the 
chief,  fancifully  decked  out  in  ornaments,  and  in  all  her 
pride  and  native  haughtiness,  walked  to  and  fro  to  exhibit, 
to  the  best  advantage,  her  fine,  erect,  and  stately  person. 

After  considerable  delay,  I obtained  four  Indians  to  carry 
the  canoe  about  one  hundred  rods  by  the  principal  rapids*, 
or  falls,  for  which  I gave  each  five  charges  of  powder  and 
balls  ; and  an  additional  reward  to  one  to  carry  a part  of 
my  baggage  a mile  and  a half  past  the  most  dangerous 
rapids,  to  a basin  just  below  another  rapid,  formed  by  large 
rocks  confining  the  river  to  a very  narrow  passage,  and 
through  which  it  rushes  with  great  impetuosity.  My  Indians 
ran  the  canoe  over  this  rapid.  I was  much  concerned  for 
their  safety  ; but  they  chose  to  do  it.  Two  years  before, 
the  men  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  cordellcd  several  bat- 
teaux  down  this  rapid — part  of  the  men  going  in  the  boats, 
and  part  on  the  shore  cordelling.  The  rope  of  one  broke, 
and  the  batteau,  in  spite  of  the  efforts  of  the  men  in  it,  was 
hurried  out  into  the  surging  and  whirling  waves  among  the 
rocks — capsized,  and  all  were  lost. 


144 


INDIAN  BURYING  PLACES. 


I walked  about  four  miles,  until  I had  passed  all  the  rap- 
ids of  any  special  danger.  About  three-fourths  of  a mile 
below  the  uppermost  cascade,  following  an  Indian  path,  I 
came  to  a pleasant  rise  of  ground,  upon  which  were  several 
houses  of  a forsaken  village,  which  were  both  larger  and  far 
better  than  any  I had  seen  in  any  Indian  country.  They 
were  about  sixty  feet  long,  and  thirty-five  wide,  the  frame- 
work very  well  constructed  and  covered  with  split  planks 
and  cedar  bark.  A little  back  of  these  houses  a small 
beautiful  lake  spread  itself  out,  on  the  surface  of  which 
some  dozens  of  wild  ducks  were  enjoying  the  quietness  of 
its  solitude.  As  I continued  down  the  Indian  path,  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  village,  I came  to  several  deposito- 
ries of  their  dead.  They  were  built  of  plank  split  from 
balsam  fir  and  cedar,  about  eight  feet  long,  six  wide,  and 
five  high,  and  well  covered.  At  one  end  is  what  may  be 
called  a door,  upon  which  are  paintings  of  various  devices, 
which  do  not  appear  to  be  designed  for  any  other  purpose 
than  for  ornament.  Some  had  painting  upon  the  sides  as 
well  as  upon  the  doors.  I had  with  me  two  Indians  who 
paid  no  particular  attention  to  them,  more  than  we  should  in 
passing  a burying  ground.  They  pointed  me  to  them,  and 
made  a short,  solemn  pause,  without  any  actions  which 
would  indicate  their  paying  homage  to  the  pictures  or  any 
other  object.  The  number  of  these  depositories  I did  not 
ascertain,  as  many  of  them  were  so  far  decayed,  as  to  be 
hardly  distinguishable  ; but  there  were  eight  or  ten  in  good 
condition.  Below  this  we  passed  several  houses  of  less 
magnitude  than  those  above ; and  while  the  floors  of  those 
were  on  a level  with  the  surface  of  the  ground,  these  were 
sunk  about  four  feet  below,  and  the  walls  rose  only  about 
three  feet  above  the  ground.  It  would  seem  that  these  were 


BEAUTIFUL  WATERFALL* 


145 


designed  for  winter  habitations,  but  at  this  time  their  occu- 
pants were  all  absent.  At  the  distance  of  four  miles  below 
the  main  cataract,  the  country,  on  the  north  side,  spreads 
out  into  a level  plain,  which  near  the  river  is  a prairie,  a 
little  distance  back  covered  with  dense  forests ; while  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river  it  is  very  mountainous. 

Toward  the  lower  part  of  Brant  island  I re-embarked,  and 
we  proceeded  a few  miles  farther  and  encamped  below  Pil- 
lar rock,  over  against  an  extraordinary  cascade  of  water 
which  descends  the  mountain  from  the  south.  Pillar  rock 
is  of  basaltic  formation,  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  a few  rods  from  the  shore,  on  a narrow  strip  of  rich 
bottom-land,  wholly  isolated,  rising  five  hundred  feet,  on 
the  river  side  perpendicular,  and  on  the  others  nearly  so. 
Upon  all,  except  the  river  side,  there  are  narrow  offsets 
upon  which  grow  some  cedars,  and  also  a few  upon  the 
highest  point.  The  base  in  proportion  to  the  height,  is 
very  small,  giving  the  whole  the  appearance  of  an  enor- 
mous pillar.  This  is  one  of  the  astonishing  wonders  of 
volcanic  operations. 

A cascade  upon  the  south  side  of  the  river  first  strikes  the 
view  at  an  elevation  of  not  less  than  a thousand  feet ; and 
by  several  offsets  the  water  descends  in  a white  foaming 
sheet  at  an  angle  of  sixty  or  eighty  degrees,  presenting  the 
appearance  of  a belt  laid  upon  the  side  of  the  mountain. 
In  two  places  the  descent  is  perpendicular,  and  the  lowest 
probably  not  less  than  two  hundred  feet,  and  before  the 
stream  reaches  the  bottom,  it  is  dissipated  into  spray  and 
disappears,  until  you  see  it  again  collecting  itself  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  and  after  winding  its  way  a short  dis- 
tance, it  unites  with  the  Columbia.  The  whole  scene,  com- 
bining the  ruggedness  and  wildness  of  nature’s  most  roman- 


146 


CIVILIZATION. 


tic  forms,  with  its  most  magnificent,  filled  my  mind  with 
admiration  both  of  the  work  and  its  Author. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  I arose  before  day,  called 
my  Indians,  and  as  soon  as  any  light  appeared,  we  again 
launched  out  into  the  broad  river,  in  our  frail  canoe.  For 
about  ten  miles,  the  surrounding  country  was  mountainous, 
forming  bold  shores  ; after  which  the  mountains  recede, 
and  the  river  spreads  out  in  some  places  from  one  to  three 
miles  wide,  and  an  extensive  region  around  presents  the 
appearance  of  a rich  soil  well  adapted  to  agriculture. 
There  are  some  fine  prairies,  but  the  greatest  part  is  thickly 
wooded.  In  this  part  of  the  river  are  many  fertile  islands, 
some  of  which  are  large  ; the  current  moves  on  gently, 
and  the  whole  scenery  around  is  fascinating.  As  I de- 
scended towards  the  Pacific  ocean,  water  fowl,  such  as 
geese,  swans,  and  a very  great  variety  of  ducks,  began  to 
multiply  ; also  every  now  and  then  seals  made  their  appear- 
ance, so  that  I became  cheered  with  the  increasing  exhibi- 
tions of  animated  nature,  greater  than  I had  witnessed  since 
leaving  the  buffalo  country.  Unexpectedly,  about  the  mid- 
dle of  the  day,  on  the  north  shore  in  a thick  grove  of  large 
firs,  I saw  two  white  men,  with  a yoke  of  oxen  drawing 
logs  for  sawing.  I hailed  them,  and  enquired  of  them  the 
distance  to  Fort  Vancouver.  They  replied,  “ only  seven 
miles  around  yonder  point,  dowrn  that  prairie.55  Soon  wre* 
came  to  a very  large  sawT-mill,  around  which  were  large 
piles  of  lumber  and  several  cottages.  This  looked  like  bu- 
siness upon  a much  greater  scale  than  I had  expected.  I 
called  a short  time  at  this  establishment,  where  I found 
several  Scotch  laborers  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, with  their  Indian  families.  Although  it  was  then 
about  noon,  they  offered  me  a breakfast  of  peas  and  fish, 


PROVIDENCE. 


147 


taking  it  for  granted  that  men  who  travel  these  western  re- 
gions, eat  only  when  they  can  get  an  opportunity.  At  two 
in  the  afternoon,  we  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver,  and  never 
did  I feel  more  joyful  to  set  my  feet  on  shore,  where  I ex- 
pected to  find  a hospitable  people  and  the  comforts  of  life. 
Doct.  J.  McLaughlin,  a chief  factor  and  the  superintendent 
of  this  fort  and  of  the  business  of  the  Company  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  received  me  with  many  expressions  of 
kindness,  and  invited  me  to  make  his  residence  my  home 
for  the  winter,  and  as  long  as  it  would  suit  my  convenience. 
Never  could  such  an  invitation  be  more  thankfully  received. 

It  vras  now  seven  months  and  two  days  since  I left  my 
home,  and  during  that  time,  excepting  a few  delays,  I had 
been  constantly  journeying,  and  the  fifty-six  last  days,  with 
Indians  only.  I felt  that  I had  great  reason  for  gratitude  to 
God  for  his  merciful  providences  toward  me,  in  defending 
and  so  providing  for  me,  that  I had  not  actually  suffered  a 
single  day  for  the  want  of  food.  For  months  I had  no 
bread  nor  scarcely  any  vegetables,  and  I often  felt  that  a 
change  and  a variety  would  have  been  agreeable,  but  in  no 
instance  did  I suffer , nor  in  any  case  was  I brought  to  the 
necessity  of  eating  dogs  or  horse  flesh . In  every  exigency 
something  wholesome  and  palatable  was  provided. 


148 


FORT  VANCOUVER. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Description  of  Fort  Vancouver— departure  for  Fort  George  and  mouth 
of  the  Columbia — mouths  of  the  Multnomah — Wappatoo  island — 
May  Dacre — Coffin  Rock — Cowalitz  river — Indian  friendship— Pa- 
cific ocean — Gray’s  bay — Astoria. 

Fort  Vancouver  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Co- 
lumbia river,  about  sixty  rods  from  the  shore,  upon  a prairie 
of  some  few  hundred  acres,  surrounded  with  dense  woods. 
The  country  around,  for  a great  distance,  is  generally  level 
and  of  good  soil,  covered  with  heavy  forests,  excepting 
some  prairies  interspersed,  and  has  a pleasing  aspect.  It 
is  in  north  latitude  45°  37',  and  longitude  122°  50',  west 
from  Greenwich — one  hundred  miles  from  the  Pacific 
ocean.  The  enclosure  is  strongly  stoccaded,  thirty-seven 
rods  long,  and  eighteen  rods  wide,  facing  the  south.  There 
are  about  one  hundred  white  persons  belonging  to  this  es- 
tablishment, and  an  Indian  population  of  three  hundred  in 
a small  compass  contiguous.  There  are  eight  substantial 
buildings  within  the  enclosure,  and  a great  number  of 
small  ones  without. 

October  17th.  After  a night’s  rest  in  this  fort,  I left  for* 
Fort  George,  situated  ninety-one  miles  below,  near  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Columbia  with  the  Pacific,  known  in  the 
United  States  by  the  name  of  Astoria.  I took  this  early 
departure  that  I might  visit  the  lower  part  of  the  river  and 
the  sea  coast,  and  return  before  the  rainy  season  should 
commence  ; and  also  to  avail  myself  of  a passage  in  the 
May  Dacre,  from  Boston,  Capt.  Lambert,  a brig  belonging 


WAPPATOO  ISLAND. 


149 


to  Captain  Wyeth  and  Company,  which  was  lying  twenty- 
three  miles  below,  at  the  lowest  mouth  of  the  Multnomah. 
Mr.  J.  K.  Townsend,  an  ornithologist  from  Philadelphia, 
accompanied  me  to  the  brig.  Our  canoe  was  large  and  pro- 
pelled by  Sandwich  Islanders,  of  whom  there  are  many 
in  this  country,  who  have  come  here  as  sailors  and  laborers. 
Five  miles  below  the  fort,  we  passed  the  main  branch  of  the 
Multnomah.  It  is  a large  river,  coming  from  the  south,  and 
is  divided  by  islands  into  four  branches  at  its  confluence 
with  the  Columbia.  Here  commences  the  Wappatoo  island, 
so  called  from  a nutritive  root  found  in  the  small  lakes 
in  the  interior,  which  is  much  sought  for  by  Indians  as 
an  article  of  food.  This  island  is  about  eighteen  miles 
long,  and  five  miles  wide,  formed  by  a part  of  the  Multno- 
mah, branching  off  about  six  miles  up  the  main  river,  run- 
ning in  a westerly  and  north-westerly  direction,  and  again 
uniting  with  the  Columbia  eighteen  miles  below  the  main 
branch.  The  branch  which  flows  around  and  forms  the 
island,  is  about  fifteen  rods  wide,  and  of  sufficient  depth  for 
small  shipping  most  of  the  year.  It  was  upon  this  island 
the  Multnomah  Indians  formerly  resided,  but  they  have  be^ 
come  as  a tribe,  extinct.  The  land  is  very  fertile,  and  most 
of  it  sufficiently  high  to  be  free  from  injury  by  the  June 
freshet.  Some  parts  of  it  are  prairie,  but  the  greatest  part 
is  well  wooded  with  oak,  ash,  balsam  fir,  and  the  species  ot 
poplar  often  called  balm  of  Gilead,  and  by  most  travel- 
ers, cotton- wood.  At  the  south-west  of  this  island,  there  is 
a range  of  mountains  which  render  a space  of  the  country 
broken,  but  beyond  these,  it  is  said  by  hunters,  that  there  is 
an  extensive  valley  well  adapted  to  agriculture. 

We  arrived  at  the  landing  place  of  the  May  Dacre,  at 

five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  were  politely  received  on 

14 


150 


MAY  BACRE. 


board  by  Capt.  Lambert.  The  brig  was  moored  alongside 
a natural  wharf  of  basalt. 

Sabbath,  October  18th.  Part  of  the  day  I retired  to  a 
small  prairie  back  from  the  river,  to  be  free  from  the  noise 
of  labor  in  which  the  men  were  engaged  in  preparing  for 
their  voyage ; and  part  of  it  I passed  in  the  state  room 
which  w^as  assigned  me.  There  is  much  reason  to  lament 
the  entire  disregard  manifested  by  many  towards  God’s 
holy  Sabbath.  His  justice  will  not  always  be  deferred. 
Those  who  will  not  submit  to  divine  authority,  must  reap 
the  fruit  of  their  disobedience.  None  can  slight  and  abuse 
the  mercy  of  God  with  impunity. 

Monday,  19th.  The  brig  fell  down  the  river  with  the 
tide,  about  three  miles,  but  for  the  want  of  wind  anchored. 
In  the  afternoon,  I went  on  shore  for  exercise,  taking  with 
me  a kanaka , that  is,  a Sandwich  islander,  for  assistance  in 
any  danger.  I made  a long  excursion  through  woods  and 
over  prairies,  and  found  the  country  pleasant  and  fertile. 
The  grass  on  the  prairies  was  green,  and  might  furnish 
subsistence  for  herds  of  cattle.  When  will  this  immensely 
extended  and  fertile  country  be  brought  under  cultivation, 
and  be  filled  with  an  industrious  population  ? From  time 
immemorial,  the  natives  have  not  stretched  forth  a hand  to 
till  the  ground,  nor  made  an  effort  for  the  earth  to  yield  a 
single  article  of  produce,  more  than  what  springs  up  spon- 
taneously ; nor  will  they,  until  their  minds  are  enlightened 
by  divine  truth.  No  philanthropist,  who  is  not  under  the 
influence  of  Christian  principles,  will  ever  engage  in  the 
self-denying  work  of  enlightening  their  minds,  and  arousing 
them  from  their  indolence.  As  on  our  frontiers,  so  on  these 
western  shores,  the  work  of  destruction,  introduced  by  those 
who  would  be  called  the  friends  of  man,  is  going  forward. 


DEER  ISLAND COFFIN  ROCK. 


151 


The  Indians  in  this  lower  country,  that  is,  below  the  Cas- 
cades, are  only  the  remnants  of  once  numerous  and  power- 
ful nations. 

The  evening  was  clear  and  pleasant,  which  gave  us  an 
opportunity  to  see  the  comet  which  was  observed  by  Hal- 
ley in  the  year  1682,  and  which  was  seen  again  in  1759, 
and  now  in  1835,  proving  its  time  of  revolution  to  be  about 
seventy-six  and  a half  years.  Its  train  of  light  was  very 
perceptible  and  about  twelve  degrees  in  length. 

We  had  a favourable  wind  on  the  20th,  which,  with  the 
current  of  the  river,  enabled  us  to  make  good  progress  on 
our  way.  Among  the  many  islands,  with  which  the  lower 
part  of  this  river  abounds,  Deer  island,  thirty-three  miles 
below  Fort  Vancouver,  is  worthy  of  notice.  It  is  large,  and 
while  it  is  sufficiently  wrooded  along  the  shores,  the  interior 
is  chiefly  a prairie  covered  'with  an  exuberant  growth  of 
grass  and  vines  of  different  kinds,  excepting  the  grape,  of 
which  there  is  none  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  of  natur- 
al growth.  In  the  interior  of  this  island  there  are  several 
small  lakes,  the  resort  of  swans,  geese  and  ducks.  This 
island  was  formerly  the  residence  of  many  Indians,  but  they 
are  gone,  and  nothing  is  left  except  the  remains  of  a large 
village. 

Among  some  interesting  islands  of  basalt,  there  is  one 
called  Coffin  Rock,  twenty-three  miles  below  Deer  island, 
situated  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  rising  ten  or  fifteen  feet 
above  high  freshet  water.  It  is  almost  entirely  covered 
with  canoes,  in  which  the  dead  are  deposited,  which  circum- 
stance gives  it  its  name.  In  the  section  of  country  from 
Wappatoo  island  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  the  Indians,  instead 
of  committing  their  dead  to  the  earth,  deposit  them  in  ca- 
noes, and  these  are  placed  in  such  situations  as  are  most 


152  CAPT.  LAMBERT  AND  THE  SKILLOOTS  CHIEF. 

secure  from  beasts  of  prey ; upon  such  precipices  as  this 
island,  upon  branches  of  trees,  or  upon  scaffolds  made  for 
the  purpose.  The  bodies  of  the  dead  are  covered  with  mats, 
and  split  planks  are  placed  over  them.  The  head  of  the 
canoe  is  a little  raised,  and  at  the  foot  there  is  a hole  made 
for  water  to  escape. 

A few  miles  below  Coffin  island,  the  Cowalitz,  a river 
coming  from  the  north-east,  flows  into  the  Columbia,  which 
is  about  thirty  rods  wide,  deep,  and  navigable  for  boats  a 
very  considerable  distance.  The  country  up  this  river  is 
said  to  equal,  in  richness  of  soil,  any  part  of  the  Oregon 
Territory,  and  to  be  so  diversified  with  woods  and  prairies, 
that  the  farmer  could  at  once  reap  the  fruits  of  his  labor. 

We  anchored  for  the  night,  on  account  of  numerous  sand- 
bars and  windings  of  the  navigable  channel.  The  evening 
was  cloudy,  and  there  was  the  appearance  of  a gathering 
storm ; but  we  were  so  surrounded  with  high  hills,  that  the 
situation  was  considered  safe. 

The  wind,  on  the  21st,  was  light,  which  rendered  our  pro- 
gress slow.  This  section  of  the  country  is  mountainous, 
the  ranges  running  from  the  south-east  to  the  north-west, 
and  covered  with  a very  dense  and  heavy  growth  of  wood, 
mostly  fir  and  oak.  A chief  of  the  Skilloots  with  a few  of 
his  people  came  on  board.  He  was  very  talkative  and  sport- 
ive. When  he  was  about  to  leave,  he  told  Capt.  L.  that  as- 
they  had  been  good  friends,  and  were  now  about  to  sepa- 
rate, he  wished  a present.  Capt.  L.  told  his  steward  to  give 
him  a shirt.  The  chief  took  it  and  put  it  on,  and  then  said 
u how  much  better  would  a new  pair  of  pantaloons  look 
with  this  shirt.”  The  captain  ordered  him  the  article  asked 
for.  Now,  said  the  chief,  “ a vest  would  become  me,  and  in- 
crease my  influence  with  my  people,”  This  was  also, given. 


PILLAR  ROCK. 


153 


Then  he  added,  “ well,  Tie*,  I suppose  we  shall  not  see 
each  other  again,  can  you  see  me  go  away  without  a clean 
blanket,  which  would  make  me  a full  dress.”  The  captain 
answered,  “go  about  your  business  ; for  there  is  no  end  to 
your  asking  so  long  as  I continue  to  give.”  Then  the  chief 
brought  forward  a little  son,  and  said,  “ he  is  a good  boy ; 
will  you  not  make  him  a present?”  Capt.  L.  gave  him  a 
few  small  articles,  and  they  went  away  rejoicing  over  the 
presents  which  they  had  received,  instead  of  regretting 
the  departure  of  the  May  Dacre.  We  passed  to-day  Pillar 
rock,  which  stands  isolated  more  than  a half  mile  from  the 
north  shore,  composed  of  basalt,  and  is  about  forty  feet  high 
and  fifteen  in  diameter.  W e anchored  a few  miles  below. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22d,  we  waited  for  a favorable 
tide  until  nine  o’clock,  when  we  got  under  way  .with  a brisk 
wind  from  the  east.  Here  the  river  begins  to  spread  out 
into  a bay,  but  owing  to  many  shoals,  the  navigation  is 
difficult.  We  ran  aground,  but  the  increase  of  the  tide  set 
us  afloat  again,  and  soon  the  great  Pacific  ocean  opened  to 
our  view.  This  boundary  of  the  “ far  west  ” was  to  me  an 
object  of  great  interest ; and  when  I looked  upon  the  dark 
rolling  waves,  and  reflected  upon  the  vast  expanse  of  five 
thousand  miles,  without  an  intervening  island  until  you  ar- 
rive at  the  Japan  coast,  a stretch  of  thought  was  required, 
like  contemplating  infinity,  which  can  measure  only  by 
succession  its  expansion  and  sublimity.  Like  the  vanish- 
ing lines  of  perspective,  so  is  contemplation  lost  in  this  ex- 
tent of  ocean. 

As  we  proceeded  on  our  way,  we  left  Gray’s  bay  at  the 
right,  extending  inland  to  the  north  some  few  miles,  in  which 


* Chief,  or  gentleman. 

14* 


154 


ASTORIA. 


on  a voyage  of  discovery,  the  ship  Columbia  anchored,  and 
from  whose  commander  the  bay  took  its  name.  Nearly  op- 
posite we  passed  Tongue  Point,  which  extends  about  two 
miles  into  the  bay  or  river,  from  the  south.  It  is  consider- 
ably elevated,  rocky,  and  covered  with  woods.  Soon  after 
this,  Astoria  was  announced.  My  curiosity  was  excited.  I 
looked,  but  could  not  discover  what  to  all  on  board  was  so 
plainly  seen — I blamed  my  powers  of  vision — and  reluc- 
tantly asked  the  captain,  where  is  Astoria  ? “ Why,”  he 

replied,  “ right  down  there — that  is  Astoria.”  I saw  two 
log  cabins,  and  said  within  myself,  is  that  the  far-famed 
“ New  York  of  the  west  ?” 


FORT  GEORGE. 


155 


CHAPTER  X. 

Description  of  Fort  George — mouth  of  the  Columbia — dangerous  bar 
— mountainous  coast — varieties  of  timber— good  location  for  a mis- 
sionary station — continued  rains — dense  forests — excursion  in  a 
canoe  down  the  bay — view  of  the  coast — disasters  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Columbia— -ship  William  and  Anne — ship  Isabella — Tonquin 
— Japanese  junk — reflections — water  fowl — return  to  Fort  Vancou- 
ver— the  regard  Indians  show  the  dead — Indian  kindness. 

When  we  arrived  in  the  small  bay,  upon  which  Fort 
George  (Astoria)  is  situated,  Captain  L.  manned  a boat  to 
take  me  on  shore,  in  which  he  also  embarked  to  pay  his 
respects  to  the  governor,  who  had  the  politeness  to  meet  us 
at  the  landing,  and  invited  us,  with  hearty  welcome,  to  his 
dwelling.  After  having  interchanged  the  customary  salu- 
tations and  made  a short  stay,  the  captain  re-embarked  and 
made  his  way  for  Cape  Disappointment ; and  the  wind  and 
tide  being  favorable,  he  passed  the  dangerous  bar  without 
any  delay,  and  shaped  his  course  for  Boston.  Fort  George 
is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  ten  miles  from  Cape 
Disappointment,  is  without  any  fortifications,  has  only  two 
small  buildings  made  of  hewed  logs ; about  two  acres 
cleared,  a part  of  which  is  cultivated  with  potatoes  and 
garden  vegetables.  It  is  occupied  by  two  white  men  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  for  the  purpose  of  trade  with  the 
few  remaining  Indians,  who  reside  about  these  shores. 
Though  this  is  the  present  condition  of  Astoria,  yet  the  time 
must  come,  when  at  the  mouth  of  this  noble  river  there  will 
be  a place  of  business,  and  especially  may  this  be  expected, 


156 


MOUTH  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 


as  this  bay  affords  the  only  good  harbor  for  a long  distance 
on  this  coast.  I should  think  the  north  side  of  the  bay,  a 
little  above  the  cape,  adjoining  what  is  called  Baker’s  bay, 
would  be  the  most  desirable  location  for  a town,  as  that  is 
the  safest  place  for  ships  to  ride  at  anchor.  On  that  side 
of  the  Columbia  bay,  the  country  is  more  open  and  pleasant 
for  a commercial  town . On  the  south  side,  where  Astoria  was 
located,  the  mountains  or  high  hills  come  down  very  near 
the  shore,  are  rocky  and  precipitous,  preventing  a southern 
prospect,  and  in  the  short  winter  days  of  a north  latitude  of 
46°  17'  they  almost  exclude  the  sun. 

A difficulty,  of  a nature  that  is  not  easily  overcome,  exists 
in  regard  to  the  navigation  of  this  river,  which  is  the  sand- 
bar at  its  entrance.  It  is  about  five  miles  across  the  bar 
from  Cape  Disappointment  out  to  sea.  In  no  part  of  that 
distance  is  the  water  upon  the  bar  over  eight  fathoms  deep, 
and  in  one  plage  only  five,  and  the  channel  is  only  about 
half  a mile  wide.  And  so  wide  and  open  is  the  ocean,  that 
there  is  always  a heavy  swell,  and  when  the  wind  is  above 
a gentle  breeze,  there  are  breakers  quite  across  the  bar, 
and  there  is  no  passing  it  except  when  the  wind  and  tide  are 
both  very  favorable.  Without  the  bar  there  is  no  anchorage, 
and  there  have  been  instances,  in  the  winter  season,  of  ships 
laying  off  and  on,  thirty  days,  waiting  for  an  opportunity  to 
pass ; and  a good  pilot  is  always  needed.  Perhaps  there 
have  been  more  lives  lost  here,  in  proportion  to  the  number 
of  those  who  have  entered  this  river,  than  in  entering  almost 
any  other  harbor  in  the  world.  But  the  calamities  have  been 
less  frequent  for  some  years  past,  than  formerly  ; and  should 
a steam-boat  be  stationed  at  the  cape,  to  tow  vessels  over, 
when  business  shall  be  sufficiently  multiplied  to  warrant  the 
expense,  the  delays  and  dangers  would  be  greatly  diminished* 


VARIETIES  OF  TIMBER. 


157 


The  main  bay  is  four  miles  wide  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  between  Cape  Disappointment  and  Point  Adams  ; 
extends  sixteen  miles  up  the  river  ; is  nine  miles  wide  be- 
tween Chenook  bay  on  the  north  and  Youngs’  bay  on  the 
south  ; and  seven  wide  between  Fort  George  and  Chenook 
point.  It  is  filled  with  many  sand-bars,  and  one,  which  is 
called  Sand  island,  a little  within  the  capes,  seen  only  when 
the  tide  is  down,  is  dangerous  to  ships  when  not  in  the 
charge  of  skilful  pilots. 

The  section  of  country  about  the  sea  coast  is  rough  and 
mountainous,  and  covered  with  the  most  heavy  and  dense 
forest  of  any  part  of  America  of  which  I have  any  know- 
ledge. The  trees  are  almost  all  of  the  genus  pinus,  but  I 
saw  none  of  the  species  commonly  called  pine,  any  where 
below  the  Cascades.  The  balsam  fir,  of  which  there  are 
three  species,  constitute  the  greatest  part  of  the  forest  trees. 
White  cedar,  spruce,  hemloc,  and  yew,  are  interspersed. 
Three  species  of  oak,  of  which  the  white  is  most  common, 
prevail  in  small  sections ; and  in  some  low  bottom-lands, 
the  species  of  poplar,  called  the  balm  of  Gilead,  or  bitter 
cotton  wood,  predominates.  The  balsam  fir  grows  very 
large ; not  unfrequently  four  and  six  feet  in  diameter,  and 
two  hundred  feet  high.  I measured  one  which  was  eight 
feet  in  diameter,  and  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high. 
As  I do  not  here  intend  to  enter  upon  the  dendrology  of  this 
country,  I pass  farther  remarks  upon  this  subject  for  the 
present. 

The  quality  of  the  land  is  good  ; and  some  tracts  of  this 
mountainous  iron  bound  coast  might  easily  be  brought  un- 
der cultivation.  One  section  about  Youngs’  bay,  extending 
to  and  about  Point  Adams.  This  would  be  a favorable  lo- 
cation for  a missionary  station,  where  access  could  be  had 


158 


LAND  EXCURSION. 


to  the  Clatsop  and  Killamook  Indians,  who  are  said  to  be 
numerous. 

At  this  season  of  the  year,  there  are  but  few  Indians 
who  reside  about  this  trading  post,  finding  it  more  for  their 
comfort  to  retire  into  the  forests  during  the  rainy  season  of  the 
winter,  locating  themselves  upon  small  prairies  along  rivers 
and  streams,  where  fuel  is  easily  obtained,  and  where  some 
game  is  found  to  add  to  their  winter’s  stock  of  provisions. 

During  my  continuance  in  this  place  it  was  my  intention 
to  cross  the  bay  over  to  Chenook  point,  and  from  thence 
down  to  Cape  Disappointment,  which  it  is  said  affords  a very 
extensive  and  interesting  prospect.  But  from  day  to  day  it 
rained,  and  the  high  winds  created  such  a sea  in  the  whole 
bay,  that  it  was  not  safe  to  attempt  the  passage. 

On  the  24th,  the  wind  was  high,  and  the  weather  very  un- 
comfortable, and  in  the  afternoon  the  storm  increased,  ac- 
companied with  snow,  which,  however,  melted  as  fast  as  it 
fell.  The  sea  fowl  appeared  to  be  alarmed  by  the  severity 
of  so  early  and  unexpected  a storm  of  snow,  and  came  in 
from  the  ocean  in  great  numbers,  flying  and  screaming,  as  if 
in  search  of  a safe  retreat. 

The  storm  being  somewhat  abated,  on  the  26th,  Mr. 
Dunn,  the  superintendent  of  the  fort,  and  myself,  took  our 
rifles  to  go  back  into  the  woods  to  hunt  deer  for  exercise. 
But  so  dense  was  the  forest,  so  filled  and  interwoven  with 
various  vines  and  shrubbery,  that  it  was  next  to  impossible 
to  make  any  progress,  and  we  did  not  penetrate  the  woods 
more  than  a mile,  before  we  gave  up  the  object,  and  turned 
our  course  back,  but  our  return,  with  diligent  efforts,  oc- 
cupied some  hours.  If  a luxuriant  growth  of  trees  and 
shrubbery  is  indicative  of  a rich  soil,  no  part  of  the  world 
can  surpass  the  country  about  these  shores^ 


A WATER  EXCURSION. 


159 


The  morning  of  the  27th  was  pleasant  and  inviting  for  a 
water  excursion  ; but  on  account  of  sudden  changes  of 
weather,  which  are  common  at  this  season  of  the  year,  I 
did  not  think  best  to  cross  the  wide  bay,  but  took  four  Che- 
nook  Indians,  and  a half  breed  named  Thos.  Pish  Kiplin,  who 
could  speak  English,  and  went  in  a large  canoe  down  to 
Clatsop  and  Point  Adams,  nine  miles  from  the  fort.  There 
was  a gentle  wind  from  the  east,  which  favored  hoisting  a 
small  sail.  This  gave  us  a pleasant  sail  until  it  increased 
to  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour ; and  by  this  time  the 
waves  had  become  so  high,  and  the  white  caps  were  so  nu- 
merous, that  to  one  not  acquainted  with  nautical  adventures, 
the  danger  in  a canoe  appeared  great.  We  could  only  run 
before  the  wind,  and  when  we  were  upon  the  top  of  one  wave, 
it  seemed  the  next  plunge  would  be  fatal.  Fears  were  of 
no  avail  in  this  situation,  and  I therefore  kept  up  such  con- 
versation as  was  calculated  to  suppress  any  which  might 
arise  in  the  minds  of  the  men.  It  was  interesting  to  see  how 
the  Indians  would  take  the  waves  with  their  paddles  so  as 
to  favor  the  safety  of  the  canoe.  But  our  rapid  progress 
soon  brought  us  to  the  shore  near  Point  Adams.  Here  a 
new  and  unexpected  difficulty  presented  itself,  and  this  was 
the  almost  utter  impracticability  of  effecting  a landing  in 
the  high  surf;  but  my  skilful  mariners  watched  an  opportu- 
nity to  shoot  the  canoe  forward  as  far  as  possible  on  a flow- 
ing wave,  and  as  soon  as  it  broke,  they  leaped  into  the  wa- 
ter and  seized  the  canoe  and  lightened  it  over  the  returning 
surge,  and  drew  it  up  beyond  the  reach  of  the  waves.  This 
management  was  an  ocular  demonstration  of  the  skill  of 
Indians  on  dangerous  seas.  I took  Kiplin  with  me  and 
walked  several  miles  on  the  hard  and  smooth  sandy  beach, 
so  far  around  to  the  south,  that  I had  a view  of  the  coast 


160  J.OSS  OF  THE  WILLIAM  AND  ANNE. 

north  and  south,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  High  basaltic 
rocks,  in  most  parts  perpendicular,  lined  the  shores.  Who 
but  that  Being,  who  sets  bounds  to  the  sea,  and  has  said  to 
the  proud  waves,  hitherto  shalt  thou  come  and  no  farther, 
reared  these  volcanic  walls  ? This  vast  expanse  of  ocean 
and  these  stupendous  works  of  God  naturally  fill  the  mind 
with  awe. 

In  returning,  I walked  several  miles  beyond  the  place 
where  we'  landed,  along  the  shore  towards  Youngs’  bay,  and 
went  on  board  the  brig  Lama,  Captain  McNiel,  which  was 
on  its  way  up  to  the  fort.  In  my  excursion  about  Clatsop 
and  Point  Adams,  I saw  several  canoes  containing  the  dead, 
deposited  as  I have  already  described. 

I have  mentioned  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
and  Sand  island,  as  dangerous  to  those  who  were  not  well 
acquainted  with  the  entrance  into  this  river.  In  the  year 
1828,  the  ship  William  and  Anne  was  cast  away  a little 
within  the  bar.  All  on  board,  twenty-six  in  number,  were 
lost,  and  it  could  not  be  ascertained  what  were  the  circum- 
stances of  the  lamentable  catastrophe,  as  no  one  was  left  to 
tell  the  story.  There  were  conjectures  that  after  the  ship 
had  run  aground,  the  Indians,  for  the  sake  of  plunder,  killed 
the  crew.  This  is  only  conjecture  ; but  it  is  very  strange, 
as  they  were  not  far  from  the  shore,  and  the  beach  was 
sandy,  that  none  escaped.  The  Indians  carried  off  and  se-- 
creted  whatever  of  the  goods  they  could  find.  The  men  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company  sent  to  the  chiefs  to  deliver  up 
what  they  had  taken  away.  They  sent  Dr.  McLaughlin  at 
Fort  Vancouver  two  small  articles  of  no  value.  Dr.  M. 
with  an  armed  force  went  down  to  the  Chenooks  and  de- 
manded a surrender  of  the  goods.  The  chief,  with  his  war- 
riors, put  himself  in  the  attitude  of  resistance,  and  fired 


ISABELLA  AND  T0NQUIN. 


161 


upon  the  men  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  They  re- 
turned  the  fire  with  a swivel,  not  to  injure  them,  but  to  let 
them  know  with  what  force  they  had  to  contend,  if  they 
persisted  in  their  resistance.  On  this  the  Indians  all  fled 
into  the  woods.  Dr.  McLaughlin  with  his  men  landed  and 
searched  for  the  goods,  many  of  which  they  found.  Whilst 
they  were  searching,  the  chief  was  seen  skulking  and  draw- 
ing near — and  cocked  his  gun,  but  before  he  had  time  to 
fire,  one  of  the  white  men  shot  him  down.  None  besides 
were  hurt.  This  was  done,  as  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
say,  not  so  much  for  saving  the  value  of  the  property,  as  to 
teach  the  Indians  not  to  expect  profit  from  such  disasters, 
and  to  take  away  temptation  to  murder  white  men  for  the 
sake  of  plunder. 

On  the  23d  of  May,  1830,  the  ship  Isabella  was  cast 
away  upon  a sand-bar  projecting  from  Sand  island,  which  is 
a little  within  the  capes.  As  soon  as  she  struck,  the  men 
all  deserted  her,  and  without  stopping  at  Fort  George,  made 
their  way  to  Fort  Vancouver.  It  is  thought,  that  if  they 
had  remained  on  board  and  waited  the  tide,  she  might  have 
been  saved.  The  cargo  was  mostly  saved. 

In  1811,  the  Tonquin,  sent  out  from  New  York  by  Mr. 
Astor,  to  form  a fur  trading  establishment  at  or  near  the 
mouth  of  this  river,  lost  eight  men  in  crossing  the  bar. 
The  calamity  resulted  from  the  ignorance  of  Captain  Thom 
of  the  dangers,  and  his  great  want  of  prudence. 

About  thirty  miles  south  of  this  river,  are  the  remains  of 
a ship  sunk  not  far  from  the  shore'.  It  is  not  known  by  whom 
she  was  owned,  nor  from  what  part  of  the  world  she  came, 
nor  when  cast  away.  The  Indians  frequently  get  bees- 
wax from  her.  It  is  highly  probable  that  she  was  from  some 
part  of  Asia. 


15 


162 


JAPANESE. 


A Japanese  junk  was  cast  away,  fifteen  miles  south  of 
Cape  Flattery  in  March,  1833.  Out  of  seventeen  men  only 
three  were  saved.  In  the  following  May,  Captain  McNeil, 
of  the  Lama,  brought  the  three  survivors  to  Fort  Vancouver, 
where  they  were  kindly  treated  by  the  gentlemen  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  in  the  following  October,  were 
sent  to  England,  to  be  forwarded  to  their  own  country  and 
home.*  This  junk  was  loaded  with  rich  China  ware,  cot- 
ton cloths,  and  rice.  In  the  same  year  eleven  Japanese,  in 
distress,  were  drifted  in  a junk  to  Oahu,  Sandwich  islands. 
It  is  not  very  uncommon  that  junks  and  other  craft  have 
been  found  by  whale  ships  in  the  great  Pacific  ocean, 
in  a state  of  starvation,  without  the  nautical  instruments 
and  skill  of  mariners  necessary  to  enable  them  to  find  their 
way  to  any  port  of  safety.  Undoubtedly  many  are  entirely 
lost,  while  others  drift  to  unknown  shores. 

May  not  such  facts  throw  light  upon  the  original  peopling 
of  America,  which  has  engaged  the  attention  of  men  for  a 
long  period.  While  one  man  demonstrates  to  his  own  sat- 
isfaction, that  the  first  inhabitants  of  this  continent  must 
have  crossed  from  the  north-east  part  of  Asia,  because  of  the 
resemblance  of  the  people  to  each  other,  and  the  ease  with 


* From  documents  which  have  come  to  hand,  since  the  publication 
of  the  first  edition  of  this  work,  I have  been  led  to  admire  the  wisdom 
of  Providence,  as  developed  in  the  case  of  these  three  Japanese.  On 
their  way  to  their  country,  they  were  brought  to  Macao.  It  is  a well 
known  fact  that  the  missionaries  have  been  endeavoring  to  gain  ac- 
cess to  the  island  of  Japan,  and  to  obtain  the  means  of  acquiring  the 
language  of  the  inhabitants.  These  three  Japanese,  having  been  so 
long  in  foreign  countries,  were  afraid  to  go  to  their  own  country,  with- 
out permission  from  their  government,  and  therefore  Mr.  Gutzlaff  was 
enabled  to  obtain  them  as  teachers,  and  to  assist  him  in  translating 
the  Scriptures,  and  other  tracts,  for  distribution  among  the  otherwise 
inaccessible  population  of  Japan,  and  thus  to  impart  to  them  the  riches 
of  the  Gospel  of  Jesus  Christ. 


DIFFERENT  THEORIES. 


163 


which  the  strait  is  passed  in  canoes  ; another,  with  no  less 
certainty,  proves  from  the  diversity  of  languages,  from  the 
impossibility  of  tracing  their  origin,  and  from  other  reasons, 
that  an  equatorial  union  of  Africa  and  America  must  have 
existed  in  some  age  of  the  world  since  the  universal  deluge, 
and  that  some  violent  convulsion  of  nature  has  since  dis- 
severed them.  Others  would  confine  the  aborigines  of  this 
continent  to  the  descendants  of  the  Jews,  and  industriously 
trace  in  their  customs,  the  ancient  worship  and  rites  of  God’s 
peculiar  people.  Some  see  in  them  the  confirmation  of  their 
favorite  theory,  that  human  institutions  and  states,  like  hu- 
man and  vegetable  nature,  have  their  birth,  growth,  maturi- 
ty, and  decay  ; and  believe  that,  as  it  respects  these  tribes, 
these  tendencies  have  already,  for  centuries,  been  in  opera- 
tion to  produce  their  extinction.  But  from  whatever  single 
or  numerical  causes  they  have  had  their  origin,  their  own 
traditions,  and  the  histories  of  more  civilized  nations  seem 
unable  to  inform  us.  Physical  causes  alone,  we  think,  are 
adequate  to  account  for  the  many  features  of  resemblance 
which  they  possess,  though  they  might,  at  different  and  dis- 
tant periods  of  time  have  been  drifted,  or  in  any  other  man- 
ner found  their  way,  from  remote  countries. 

About  this  time  of  the  year,  water  fowl  of  various  genera 
and  species  begin  to  visit  the  bays  and  lagoons,  and  as  the 
season  advances,  they  gradually  proceed  into  the  interior  of 
the  country,  and  the  rivers  and  lakes  abound  with  them. 
Geese,  swans,  ducks,  and  gulls-,  wing  their  way  over  us,  and 
their  screams,  particularly  those  of  the  swans,  are  at  times 
almost  deafening.  The  swan  is  not  of  the  species  common 
in  the  United  States.  It  is  the  Bewick’s  swan,  but  is  char- 
acterized by  the  same  unsullied  plumage  ; its  attitudes  and 
motions,  while  sailing  over  its  liquid  element,  are  equally 


164 


RETURN  TO  FORT  VANCOUVER. 


graceful,  and  its  voice  is  even  louder  and  more  sonorous. 
Of  the  geese  there  are  four  kinds  ; the  white,  white  fronted, 
the  Canada,  and  Hutchins.  Of  the  ducks,  there  are  the 
black  or  surf  duck,  the  canvass-back,  the  blue-bill,  the  long- 
tailed, the  harlequin,  the  pin-tail,  and  the  golden-eyed. 
The  number  of  these  water  fowl  is  immense,  and  they  may 
be  seen  on  the  wing,  swimming  upon  the  waters,  or  search- 
ing for  food  along  the  shores.  They  constitute  a large  item 
of  Indian  living  and  trade,  and  find  a conspicuous  place  up- 
on the  tables  of  the  gentlemen  engaged  in  the  fur  business. 

Wednesday,  October  28th.  I took  passage  on-board  a 
canoe,  going  on  an  express  from  the  Lama,  recently  arrived 
from  a northern  voyage  to  and  about  Queen  Charlotte’s 
island,  to  Fort  Vancouver.  The  canoe  was  large,  carrying 
about  fifteen  hundred  weight  including  men  and  baggage, 
manned  by  three  white  men  and  three  Indians.  The  day 
was  more  pleasant  than  for  some  time  past,  which  was  a 
favorable  circumstance  for  passing  through  the  bay,  and 
around  Tongue  Point,  where  the  current  was  so  strong  that 
it  required  the  full  exertion  of  the  men  to  double  it.  Ten 
miles  further  we  passed  Pillar  Rock,  a few  miles  above 
which  we  encamped  on  the  north  side,  where  the  mountains 
came  down  so  close  to  the  shore,  that  we  hardly  found  room 
to  pitch  my  tent  above  high  tide  water.  The  men  made  a 
large  fire,  which  was  cheering  and  comfortable,  and  the 
supper  which  they  prepared  was  eaten  with  a keener  appe- 
tite than  many  a one  amidst  all  the  appliances  of  wealth 
and  luxury. 

On  the  29th,  we  arose  before  day,  and  were  willing  to 
take  an  early  departure  from  a place  where  tide  and  moun- 
tains disputed  the  territory.  By  diligently  pursuing  our 
way  until  eight  in  the  evening,  we  made  forty-five  miles. 


REGARD  FOR  THE  DEAD. 


165 


which  was  a great  day’s  work  in  going  up  the  river  against 
the  current,  which  is  strong  when  the  tide  is  setting  out. 
I noticed  on  my  return  a singular  rocky  point  on  the  north 
shore,  a short  distance  below  the  Cowalitz,  rising  nearly 
perpendicular  about  one  hundred  feet,  separated  from  the 
adjacent  high  hills,  and  very  much  in  the  form  of  Coffin 
Rock.  It  was  covered  with  canoes  containing  the  dead. 
These  depositories  are  held  in  great  veneration  by  the  In- 
dians. They  are  not  chosen  for  convenience,  but  for  secu- 
rity against  ravenous  beasts ; and  are  often  examined  by 
the  friends  of  the  deceased,  to  see  if  the  remains  of  the  dead 
repose' in  undisturbed  quiet.  And  such  is  their  watchful 
care,  that  the  anatomist  could  rarely  make  depredations 
without  detection,  or  with  impunity.  And  if  they  have 
such  regard  for  the  dead,  are  they  without  affection  for  their 
living  relatives  and  friends  ? Are  they  “ callous  to  all  the 
passions  but  rage V*  Are  they  “ steeled  against  sympathy 
and  feeling  ?■”  And  have  they  no  happiness  except  what 
“ exists  in  the  visionary  dreaming  of  those,  whomever  con- 
templated their  actual  condition  ¥*  Have  those,  who  charge 
upon  the  Indian  character  “ sullen  gloom,  want  of  curiosity 
and  surprise  at  what  is  new  or  striking,55  had  extensive  per- 
sonal acquaintance  with  many  different  Indian  nations  and 
tribes  ? and  have  they  gained  their  familiar  friendship  and 
co?ifidence?  I am  firm  in  the  belief,  that  the  character  of 
unabused  and  uncontaminated  Indians  will  not  lose  in  com- 
parison with  any  other  nation  that  can  be  named  ; and  the 
only  material  difference  between  man  and  man,  is  produced 
by  the  imbibed  principles  of  the  Christian  religion. 

Wishing  to  avail  ourselves  of  calm  weather  and  a favor- 
able moon,  we  kept  on  our  way  in  the  evening  until  thick- 
ening clouds  and  descending  rain  admonished  us  of  the- 

15* 


166 


INDIAN  KINDNESS. 


necessity  of  finding  an  encamping  place ; and  while  doing 
this,  we  ran  upon  a log,  which  came  very  near  upsetting  us 
in  deep  water.  But  by  two  men  getting  out  upon  the  log 
and  lifting  the  canoe,  with  much  exertion  we  got  off  safely. 
After  passing  round  a point  we  saw  a light  on  the  north 
shore,  to  which  we  directed  our  course  and  landed,  where 
we  found  a small  company  of  Indians  encamped  under  a 
large  projecting  rock,  giving  shelter  from  the  storm.  They 
kindly  shared  their  accommodations  with  us,  and  my  tent 
was  pitched  under  the  concavity  of  the  rocks ; and  mats, 
skins,  and  blankets  upon  small  stones,  made  me  a comforta- 
ble bed.  A good  fire  and  refreshing  supper  obliviscited  the 
labors  of  the  day  and  dangers  of  the  evening. 

Arose  on  the  30th  before  day,  and  although  the  morning 
was  rainy,  yet  it  was  sufficiently  calm  for  the  express  to 
prosecute  their  voyage.  I arranged  my  mats  and  skins  so 
as  to  shield  myself  and  baggage  from  the  rain ; but  the 
men  whose  business  it  was  to  propel  the  canoe,  were  exposed 
to  the  storm.  After  a few  hours’  labor  and  exposure,  we  ar- 
rived at  the  place  where  the  May  Dacre  had  made  her  har- 
bor, near  where  the  southern  section  of  the  Willamette 
discharges  its  waters  into  the  Columbia.  We  brought  our 
canoe  into  a small  bay  indented  in  the  basaltic  rocks,  and 
drew  it  so  far  upon  the  shore,  that  it  was  thought  safe  with- 
out any  other  security  ; and  all  hastened  to  kindle  a fire  in 
a thatched  building,  which  was  constructed  by  some  Kana- 
kas for  the  accommodation  of  the  May  Dacre.  This  shel- 
ter was  very  desirable  to  protect  us  from  the  storm,  and  to 
give  the  men  an  opportunity  to  dry  their  clothes.  Whilst 
we  were  preparing  and  eating  our  breakfast,  the  flowing 
tide,  which  swells  the  river  and  slackens  the  current,  but 
does  not  stop  it,  took  our  canoe  from  its  moorings,  and 


ARRIVAL  AT  VANCOUVER. 


167 


drifted  it  a considerable  distance  down  the  river.  Some  In- 
dians whose  residence  was  far  up  the  Cowalitz,  and  who 
were  descending  the  river  in  their  canoes,  saw  it  and  re- 
turned with  it  before  we  knew  it  was  gone.  This  act  proved 
them  to  be  susceptible  of  kindness,  and  increased  my  con- 
fidence in  their  integrity.  The  canoe  contained  valuable 
baggage,  and  we  should  have  been  left  without  any  means 
of  going  on  our  way.  We  could  not  have  crossed  the  Wil- 
lamette nor  Columbia  river,  and  if  this  had  been  accom- 
plished, still  to  have  attempted  a return  by  land  would 
have  been  an  almost  hopeless  undertaking,  as  the  forest  had 
an  undergrowth  which  rendered  it  quite  impassable.  The 
Indians  are  accustomed  so  much  to  travel  in  canoes,  that 
even  the  poor  accomodation  of  a trail  was  not  to  be  found 
here,  and  we  should  have  been  compelled  to  dispute  every 
inch  of  the  way  with  our  hatchets.  Before  the  middle  of 
the  day,  the  storm  abated,  and  the  remainder  of  our  way  to 
Fort  Vancouver  was  pleasant,  at  which  place  we  arrived 
before  evening.  We  were  less  than  three  days  in  accom- 
plishing the  passage  from  one  fort  to  the  other,  and  these 
were  the  only  three  calm  days  for  a long  time  before  and 
after. 


168 


WINTER  QUARTERS*. 


CHAPTER  XL 

Review  of  journeyings — school — -journey  up  the  Willamette — walk 
upon  the  pebbly  shore — falls — settlement  on  the  Willamette — Me- 
thodist mission — epidemic — voyage  down  the  river — hospitality  of 
Wanaxka — construction  of  his  house — Fort  William  on  the  Wap- 
patoo  island — astonishing  thirst  for  ardent  spirits — return  to  Fort 
Vancouver. 

Here,  by  the  kind  invitation  of  Dr.  McLaughlin,  and 
welcomed  by  the  other  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, I took  up  my  residence  for  the  winter ; intending  to 
make  such  excursions  as  the  season  will  admit  and  the  ob- 
ject of  my  tour  demand.  As  this  is  the  principal  trading 
post  of  the  company,  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  it  may 
be  expected,  that  many  Indians  from  different  parts  of  the 
country  for  considerable  distance  around,  will  be  seen  here 
during  winter,  and  more  information  may  be  obtained  of 
their  character  and  condition  than  in  any  other  course  I 
could  pursue.  Here  also  traders  from  different  stations 
west  of  the  mountains  will  come  in  for  new  supplies,  of 
whose  personal  acquaintance  with  Indians  I may  avail 
myself. 

Sabbath,  November  1st.  By  invitation,  I preached  to  a 
congregation  of  those  belonging  to  this  establishment  who 
understand  English.  Many  of  the  laborers  are  French  Ca- 
nadians, who  are  Roman  Catholics,  and  understand  only 
the  French  language. 

O O 

This  trading  post  presents  an  important  field  of  labor, 
and  if  a Christian  influence  can  be  exerted  here,  it  may  be 


REVIEW  OF  JOURNEYINGS. 


169 


of  incalculable  benefit  to  the  surrounding  Indian  population. 
Let  a branch  of  Christ’s  kingdom  be  established  here,  with 
its  concomitant  expansive  benevolence  exerted  and  diffused, 
and  this  place  would  be  a centre,  from  which  divine  light 
would  shine  out,  and  illumine  this  region  of  darkness. 
This  is  an  object  of  so  much  importance,  that  all  my  pow- 
ers, and  energies,  and  time,  must  be  employed  for  its  ac- 
complishment ; so  that  I do  not  feel  that  I have  a winter  of 
idle  confinement  before  me. 

Monday,  2d.  In  taking  a review  of  my  journeyings 
since  I left  my  home,  I can  say,  though  long  in  time  and 
distance,  yet  they  have  been  pleasant  and  full  of  interest. 
So  diversified  has  been  the  country  through  whiqh  I have 
passed,  and  so  varied  the  incidents,  and  so  few  real  hard- 
ships, that  the  time  and  distance  have  both  appeared  short. 
Although  this  mission  wTas  thought  to  be  one  which  would 
probably  be  attended  with  as  great,  if  not  greater  dangers 
and  deprivations  than  any  which  had  been  sent  into  any 
part  of  the  world,  yet  my  sufferings  have  been  so  small, 
and  my  mercies  so  great,  that  I can  say,  if  this  is  taking 
up  the  cross,  let  none  be  dismayed  ; for  surely  Christ’s 
yoke  is  easy  and  his  burden  light.  I had  thought  much 
on  the  prospect  of  having  an  opportunity  to  see  whether  I 
could  “ rejoice  in  sufferings”  for  the  heathen,  “ and  fill  up 
that  which  is  behind  of  the  afflictions  of  Christ  in  my  flesh 
for  his  body’s  sake,  which  is  the  church,”  but  the  protect- 
ing providence  of  God  was  so  conspicuous  and  his  mer- 
cies so  constant,  that  the  opportunity  did  not  appear  to 
be  presented.  As  to  want,  I experienced  only  enough 
to  teach  me  more  sensibly  the  meaning  of  the  petition, 
“give  us  this  day  our  daily  bread;”  and  the  truth  was 
comforting,  that  “ the  Lord  giveth  to  all  their  meat  in 


170 


SCHOOL. 


due  season.”  I can  truly  say,  “hitherto  the  Lord  hath 
helped  me.” 

I am  very  agreeably  situated  in  this  place.  Rooms  in  a 
new  house  are  assigned  me,  well  furnished,  and  all  the  at- 
tendance which  I could  wish,  with  access  to  as  many  valu- 
able books  as  I have  time  to  read ; and  opportunities  to  ride 
out  for  exercise,  and  to  see  the  adjoining  country ; and  in 
addition  to  all  these,  the  society  of  gentlemen,  enlightened, 
polished,  and  sociable.  These  comforts  and  privileges 
were  not  anticipated,  and  are  therefore  the  more  grateful. 

There  is  a school  connected  with  this  establishment  for 
the  benefit  of  the  children  of  the  traders  and  common  labor- 
ers, some  of  whom  are  orphans  whose  parents  were  attach- 
ed to  the  Company  ; and  also  some  Indian  children,  who 
are  provided  for  by  the  generosity  of  the  resident  gentle- 
men. They  are  instructed  in  the  common  branches  of  the 
English  language,  such  as  reading,  writing,  arithmetic, 
grammar  and  geography  ; and  together  with  these,  in  reli- 
gion and  morality.  The  exercises  of  the  school  are  closed 
with  singing  a hymn  ; after  which,  they  are  taken  by  their 
teacher  to  a garden  assigned  them,  in  which  they  labor. 
Finding  them  deficient  in  sacred  music,  I instructed  them 
in  singing,  in  which  they  made  good  proficiency,  and  de- 
veloped excellent  voices.  Among  them  was  an  Indian  boy, 
who  had  the  most  flexible  and  melodious  voice  I ever  heard. 

It  is  worthy  of  notice,  how  little  of  the  Indian  complexion 
is  seen  in  the  half-breed  children.  Generally  they  have 
fair  skin,  often  flaxen  hair  and  blue  eyes.  The  children  of 
the  school  were  punctual  in  their  attendance  on  the  three 
services  of  the  Sabbath,  and  were  our  choir. 

Monday,  Nov.  23d.  The  weather  being  pleasant,  though 
generally  very  rainy  at  this  season  of  the  year,  as  I wished 


JOURNEY  UP  THE  WILLAMETTE. 


171 


to  explore  the  country  up  the  Willamette  river,  I embraced 
an  opportunity  of  going  with  Mr.  Lucier  and  family,  who 
were  returning  in  a canoe  to  their  residence  about  fifty 
miles  up  that  river.  Doctor  McLaughlin  furnished  and 
sent  on  board  a stock  of  provisions,  three  or  four  times  more 
than  I should  need,  if  nothing  should  occur  to  delay  us,  but 
such  a precaution,  in  this  country,  is  always  wise.  We 
left  Fort  Vancouver  about  one  o’clock  in  the  afternoon, 
and  proceeded  five  miles  dowm  the  Columbia  to  the  en- 
trance of  the  Multnomah,  and  about  fifteen  up  the  Willa- 
mette before  we  encamped.  The  name  Multnomah,  is 
given  to  a small  section  of  this  river,  from  the  name  of  a 
tribe  of  Indians  who  once  resided  about  six  miles  on  both 
sides  from  its  confluence  with  the  Columbia,  to  the  branch 
which  flows  down  the  southern  side  of  the  Wappatoo  island. 
Above  this  it  is  called  the  Willamette.  The  tide  sets  up 
this  river  about  thirty  miles,  to  within  a few  miles  of  the 
falls,  and  through  this  distance  the  river  is  wide  and  deep, 
affording  good  navigation  for  shipping. 

The  country  about  the  Multnomah,  and  also  some  miles 
up  the  Willamette,  is  low,  and  much  of  it  is  overflowed  in 
the  June  freshet ; but  as  we  ascend,  the  banks  become 
higher,  and  are  more  generally  covered  with  woods.  The 
country  around  contains  fine  tracts  of  rich  prairie,  suffi- 
ciently interspersed  with  woods  for  all  the  purposes  of  fuel, 
fencing  and  lumber. 

A chain  of  mountains  running  from  the  south-east  to  the 
north-west,  and  through  which  the  Columbia  river  passes 
below  Deer  island,  extends  along  the  west  shore  of  this 
river  for  some  distance,  near  and  below  'the  falls. 

There  are  probably  as  many  Indians  who  navigate  this 
river  with  their  canoes,  as  any  of  the  rivers  in  the  lower 


172 


FALLS  OF  THE  WILLAMETTE. 


country  ; many  of  whom  I had  an  opportunity  of  observing 
to-day  in  their  busy  pursuits,  the  strokes  of  whose  paddles 
broke  in  upon  the  general  silence.  One  company  overtook 
us  towards  evening,  and  encamped  with  us  upon  the  eleva- 
ted shore  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  Owing  to  the  damp- 
ness of  the  day,  and  previous  rains,  we  had  some  difficulty 
in  making  a fire,  but  at  length  it  was  accomplished,  and  the 
wood  was  unsparingly  applied.  With  my  tent  pitched  be- 
fore a large  fire,  under  the  canopy  of  wide  branching  trees, 
I partook  of  the  stores  of  my  large  wicker  basket  with  as 
much  satisfaction  as  could  be  felt  in  any  splendid  mansion. 
The  blaze  of  dry  crackling  fir  threw  brilliancy  around, 
softened  by  the  dark  forest,  like  the  light  of  the  astral 
lamp  ; and  the  burning  balsam  perfumed  the  air.  The 
latter  part  of  the  night,  I suffered  more  with  the  cold  than 
at  any  time  in  all  my  journeying,  not  having  taken  with 
me  as  many  blankets  as  the  season  required. 

The  morning  of  the  24th  was  overcast  with  clouds,  and 
rendered  chilly  by  a mist  settled  near  the  surface  of  the 
river,  which  collecting  in  a beautiful  frosting  upon  the  sur- 
rounding trees,  exhibited  one  of  those  picturesque  fancies, 
which  works  of  art  may  intimate,  but  which  only  nature  can 
perfect.  Soon  after  resuming  the  labor  of  the  day,  we 
passed  several  basaltic  islands,  some  of  them  of  sufficient 
magnitude  to  enclose  a few  acres,  others  only  rocky  points, 
between  which  the  current  was  strong,  requiring  much  ef- 
fort for  us  to  make  headway.  Part  of  the  way  from  our 
last  encampment  to  the  falls,  which  was  six  miles,  I walked 
along  upon  the  pebbled  shore,  where  I found  calcedony, 
agate,  jasper,  and  cornelian  of  good  quality.  Two  miles 
below  the  falls,  a large  stream  comes  in  from  the  south-east, 
called  Pudding  river.  Its  entrance  maks  a strong  current, 


SETTLEMENT  ON  THE  WILLAMETTE. 


173 


which  we  found  difficult  to  stem,  so  that  we  were  drifted 
back  in  spite  of  all  our  efforts ; but  in  the  second  attempt 
we  succeeded.  We  arrived  at  the  falls  of  the  Willamette 
at  two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  and  hired  eight  Clough-e-wall- 
hah  Indians  to  carry  the  canoe  by  the  falls,  the  distance  of 
half  a mile,  and  proceeded  about  five  miles  farther  before 
evening.  These  falls  with  the  scenery  around  have  much 
to  charm  and  interest.  The  river  above  spreads  out  into  a 
wide,  deep  basin,  and  runs  slowly  and  smoothly  until  within 
a half  mile  of  the  falls,  when  its  velocity  increases,  its 
width  diminishes,  eddies  are  formed  in  which  the  water  turns 
back  as  if  loth  to  make  the  plunge,  but  is  forced  forward  by 
the  water  in  the  rear,  and  when  still  nearer  it  breaks  upon 
the  volcanic  rocks  scattered  across  the  channel ; then,  as  if 
resigned  to  its  fate,  smooths  its  agitated  surges,  and  precip- 
itates down  an  almost  perpendicular  of  twenty-five  feet,  pre- 
senting a somewhat  whitened  column.  It  was  a pleasant 
day,  and  the  rising  mist  formed  in  the  rays  of  the  sun  a 
beautiful  bow  ; and  the  grass  about  the  falls,  irrigated  by 
the  descending  mist,  was  in  fresh  green.  The  rocks  over 
which  the  water  falls,  and  along  the  adjacent  shores,  are 
amygdaloid  and  basalt.  The  opportunities  here  for  water 
power  are  equal  to  any  that  can  be  found.  There  cannot 
be  a better  situation  for  a factory  village  than  on  the  east 
side  of  the  river,  where  a dry  wide-spread  level  extends 
some  distance,  and  the  basaltic  shores  form  natural  wharves 
for  shipping.  The  whole  country  around,  particularly  the 
east  side,  is  pleasant  and  fertile.  And  can  the  period  be  far 
distant,  when  there  will  be  here  a busy  population  ? I could 
hardly  persuade  myself  that  this  river  had  for  many  thou- 
j sand  years,  poured  its  waters  constantly  down  these  falls 

without  having  facilitated  the  labor  of  man.  Absorbed  in 

16 


174 


MC  key’s  settlement. 


these  contemplations,  I took  out  my  watch  to  see  if  it  was 
not  the  hour  for  the  ringing  of  the  bells.  It  was  two  o’clock, 
and  all  was  still,  except  the  roar  of  the  falling  water.  I 
called  to  recollection,  that  in  the  year  1809  I stood  by  the 
falls  of  Genesee  river,  and  all  was  silence  except  the  roar 
of  the  cataract.  But  it  is  not  so  now ; for  Rochester  stands 
where  I then  stood. 

Wednesday,  25th.  As  soon  as  the  day  dawned,  we  went 
on  board  the  canoe  and  pursued  our  way  up  the  river,  which 
for  thirty  miles  runs  from  a westerly  direction,  and  at  half 
past  one,  we  arrived  at  McKey’s  settlement.  This  and  Jar- 
vis’ settlement,  twelve  miles  above,  contain  about  twenty 
families.  The  settlers  are  mostly  Canadian  Frenchmen 
with  Indian  wives.  There  are  a very  few  Americans. 
The  Frenchmen  were  laborers  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  but  have  left  that  service,  and  having  families 
they  have  commenced  farming  in  this  fertile  section  of  coun- 
try, which  is  the  best  of  the  Oregon  Teritory  that  I have  as 
yet  seen.  It  is  well  diversified  with  woods  and  prairies,  the 
soil  is  rich  and  sufficiently  dry  for  cultivation,  and  at  the 
same  time  well  watered  with  small  streams  and  springs. 
These  hunters,  recently  turned  to  farmers,  cultivate  the 
most  common  useful  productions — wheat  of  the  first  quality 
to  as  great  an  extent  as  their  wants  require.  A small  grist 
mill  is  just  finished,  which  adds  to  their  comforts.  They 
have  a common  school  in  each  settlement  instructed  by 
American  young  men  who  are  competent  to  the  business. 

An  opinion  extensively  prevails,  that  an  American  colo- 
ny is  located  somewhere  in  this  Territory,  but  these  two 
settlements  are  the  only  farming  establishments  which  exist 
here,  if  we  except  those  connected  with  the  trading  posts  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  The  attempt  which  was  made 


MISLETOE — METHODIST  MISSION. 


175 


some  few  years  since  by  a company  of  men  from  the  United 
States,  was  an  entire  failure,  and  only  a few  individuals  of 
whom  I obtained  any  knowledge,  have  found  their  way  back 
to  the  States. 

The  forest  trees  are  mostly  oak  and  fir,  the  latter  grow- 
ing remarkably  tall.  The  mis.letoe,  attached  to  the  body 
and  large  branches  of  the  oak,  is  very  common.  Beautiful 
dark  green  bunches  of  this  plant,  seen  upon  the  leafless 
trees  of  winter,  excite  admiration  that  its  verdure  should 
continue,  when  the  trees,  from  which  it  derives  its  life  and 
support,  are  not  able  to  sustain  their  own  foliage. 

I rode,  on  Thursday  the  26th,  twelve  miles  to  Jarvis’ 
settlement,  and  was  delighted  with  the  country.  For  rich- 
ness of  soil  and  other  local  advantages,  I should  not  know 
where  to  find  a spot  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  superior 
to  this.  I saw  on  the  way  a large  number  of  horses,  lately 
brought  from  California,  fattening  upon  the  fresh,  luxuriant 
grass  of  the  prairies. 

Near  this  upper  settlement,  a short  distance  up  the  river, 
the  Methodist  church  of  the  United  States  have  established 
a mission  among  the  Calapooah  Indians,  of  whom  there  are 
but  few  remaining.  Rev.  Messrs.  Jason  Lee  and  Daniel 
Lee  are  the  ordained  missionaries,  and  Mr.  Shepard  teacher. 

Their  principal  mode  of  instruction,  for  the  present,  is  by 
means  of  schools.  They  have  at  this  time  fourteen  Indian 
children  in  their  school,  supported  in  their  family,  and  the 
prospect  of  obtaining  others  as  fast  as  they  can  accommo- 
date them.  Their  facilities  for  providing  for  their  school 
are  good,  having  an  opportunity  to  cultivate  as  much  excel- 
lent land  as  they  wish,  and  to  raise  the  necessaries  of  life 
in  great  abundance,  with  little  more  labor  than  what  the 
scholars  can  perform,  for  their  support.  The  missionaries 


176 


EPIDEMIC. 


have  an  additional  opportunity  of  usefulness,  which  is  to 
establish  a Christian  influence  among  the  people  of  these 
infant  settlements.  Mr.  J.  Lee  preaches  to  them  on  the 
Sabbath,  and  they  have  a very  interesting  Sabbath  school 
among  the  half-breed  children.  These  children  generally 
have  fair  complexions,  active  minds,  and  make  a fine  ap- 
pearance. The  prospect  is,  that  this  mission  may  lay  a 
foundation  for  extensive  usefulness.  There  is  as  yet  one 
important  desideratum — these  missionaries  have  no  wives. 
Christian  white  women  are  very  much  needed  to  exert  an 
influence  over  Indian  females.  The  female  character  must 
be  elevated,  and  until  this  is  done  but  little  is  accomplished ; 
and  females  can  have  access  to,  and  influence  over  females 
in  many  departments  of  instruction,  to  much  better  advan- 
tage than  men.  And  the  model,  which  is  furnished  by  an 
intelligent  and  pious  family  circle,  is  that  kind  of  practical 
instruction,  whether  at  home  or  abroad,  which  never  fails 
to  recommend  the  gospel. 

At  the  time  of  my  continuance  in  this  place,  a singular 
epidemic  prevailed  among  the  Indians,  of  which  several 
persons  died.  The  subjects  of  the  complaint  were  attacked 
with  a severe  pain  in  the  ear  almost  instantaneously,  which 
soon  spread  through  the  whole  head,  with  great  heat  in  the 
part  affected ; at  the  same  time  the  pulse  became  very  fee- 
ble and  not  very  frequent — soon  the  extremities  became  cold, 
and  a general  torpor  spread  through  the  whole  system,  ex- 
cept the  head — soon  they  were  senseless,  and  in  a short  pe- 
riod died.  In  some  cases  the  attack  was  less  severe,  and 
the  patient  lingered,  and  after  some  days  convalesced,  or 
continued  to  sink  until  death  closed  his  earthly  existence. 

Friday,  Nov.  27th.  I rode  with  Mr.  J.  Lee  several 
miles  south  to  see  more  of  the  country.  The  same  rich3 


HOSPITALITY  OF  WANAXKA. 


177 


black  soil  continued,  furnishing  nutritive  grass  in  abund- 
ance ; and  also  the  same  diversity  of  wood  and  prairie. 
This  valley  is  generally  about  fifty  miles  wide  east  and 
west,  and  far  more  extended  north  and  south. 

Towards  evening,  we  attended  the  funeral  of  an  Indian 
boy,  who  belonged  to  the  school,  and  who  died  last  night 
with  the  epidemic.  Most  of  the  children  of  the  school  and 
the  Sabbath  school  attended,  and  conducted  with  propriety. 

On  Saturday  I returned  to  McKey’s  settlement,  to  fulfil 
an  appointment  to  preach  to  the  inhabitants  on  the  Sabbath. 
I stopped  with  Mr.  Edwards,  who  is  temporarily  attached 
to  the  mission,  but  now  teaching  school  in  this  settlement. 

Almost  the  whole  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  settlement 
assembled  on  the  Sabbath,  and  made  a very  decent  con- 
gregation, but  not  more  than  half  of  them  could  understand 
English. 

After  service  I was  called  to  visit  a Mr.  Carthre,  who 
was  taken  severely  with  the  epidemic.  I bled  him,  which 
gave  him  immediate  relief,  and  applied  a blister,  and,  as  I 
afterward  learned,  he  recovered. 

Early  on  Monday  morning,  the  30th,  McKey  furnished 
me  with  two  young  Indians  to  take  me  in  a canoe  to  the 
falls,  where  we  arrived  safely  at  three  o’clock  in  the  after- 
noon. Here  I engaged  two  Indians  belonging  to  a small 
village  of  the  Clough-e-wall-hah  tribe,  who  have  a perma- 
nent residence  a little  below  the  falls,  to  carry  me  in  a ca- 
noe to  Fort  Vancouver.  Wanaxka,  the  chief,  came  up  to 
the  falls,  where  I was  about  to  encamp  alone  for  the  night, 
and  invited  me  to  share  the  hospitality  of  his  house.  I hes- 
itated, not  that  I would  undervalue  his  kindness,  but  feared 
such  annoyances  as  might  prevent  my  rest.  On  the  other 

hand,  there  was  every  appearance  of  a cold,  heavy  storm, 

16* 


178 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  HIS  HOUSE. 


and  very  little  wood  near,  which  I could  procure  for  a fire 
only  with  my  hatchet,  and  I should  be  alone,  exposed  to 
ravenous  wild  beasts — the  latter  consideration,  however,  I 
scarcely  regarded.  But  believing  it  would  gratify  the 
chief,  should  I accept  his  invitation,  I went  with  him  to  his 
dwelling,  which  was  a long  permanent  building  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  upon  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  feet, 
and  near  which  were  several  other  buildings  of  nearly  the 
same  dimensions.  Besides  the  family  of  the  chief,  there 
were  two  other  families  in  the  same  building,  in  sections  of 
about  twenty  feet,  separated  from  each  other  by  mats  hung 
up  for  partitions.  Their  houses  are  built  of  logs  split  into 
thick  plank.  These  Indians  do  not  sink  any  part  of  their 
buildings  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  as  some  of  the  In- 
dians do  about  and  below  the  Cascades.  The  walls  of  the 
chief’s  house  were  about  seven  feet  high,  with  the  roofs 
more  steeply  elevated  than  what  is  common  in  the  United 
States,  made  of  the  same  materials  with  the  walls,  except 
that  the  planks  were  of  less  thickness.  They  have  only 
one  door  to  the  house,  and  this  is  in  the  centre  of  the  front 
side.  They  have  no  chimneys  to  carry  off  the  smoke,  but 
a hole  is  left  open  above  the  fire-place,  which  is  in  the  cen- 
tre of  each  family’s  apartment.  This  answers  very  well 
in  calm  weather,  but  when  there  is  much  wind,  the  whole 
building  becomes  a smoke  house.  The  fire-place  of  the 
chief’s  apartment  was  sunk  a foot  below  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  eight  feet  square,  secured  by  a frame  around,  and 
mats  were  spread  upon  the  floor  for  the  family  to  sit  upon. 
Their  dormitories  are  on  the  sides  of  the  apartment,  raised 
four  feet  above  the  floor,  with  moveable  ladders  for  ascent; 
and  under  them  they  stow  away  their  dried  fish,  roots,  ber- 
ries, and  other  effects.  There  was  not  an  excess  of  neat- 


A MORNING  VOYAGE. 


179 


ness  within,  and  still  less  without.  The  Indians  in  the 
lower  country  who  follow  fishing  and  fowling  for  af  liveli- 
hood are  far  from  being  as  neat  as  those  in  the  upper  coun- 
try, who  depend  more  upon  the  chase.  The  latter  live  in 
moveable  lodges  and  frequently  change  their  habitations. 
But  these  Indians  were  also  kind.  They  gave  me  most  of 
one  side  of  the  fire-place,  spread  down  clean  new  mats,  re- 
plenished their  fire,  and  were  ready  to  perform  any  service 
I should  wish.  They  filled  my  tea-kettle,  after  which  I 
spread  out  the  stores  so  bountifully  provided  by  Doct.  Mc- 
Laughlin, and  performed  my  own  cooking.  During  the 
evening,  the  chief  manifested  a disposition  to  be  sociable, 
but  we  had  very  little  language  common  to  us  both,  besides 
the  language  of  signs.  The  next  thing,  when  the  hour  of 
rest  arrived,  was  to  fortify  myself  against  a numerous  and 
insidious  enemy.  I first  spread  down  the  cloth  of  my  tent, 
then  my  blankets,  and  wrapped  myself  up  as  securely  as  I 
could,  and  should  have  slept  comfortably,  had  I not  too  fully 
realized  my  apprehensions. 

As  soon  as  daylight  appeared,  on  December  1st,  I left 
the  hospitable  habitation  of  Wanaxka,  and  with  my  two 
Indians  proceeded  down  the  Willamette  about  sixteen  miles 
before  we  landed  for  breakfast.  I find  a great  difference 
in  going  with  or  against  the  current  of  these  rivers.  Since 
going  up  this  river,  the  number  of  swans  and  geese  had 
greatly  multiplied  upon  the  waters  and  along  the  shores. 
Their  noise,  and  especially  'that  of  the  swans,  echoed 
through  the  woods  and  prairies.  The  swan  is  a beautiful 
and  majestic  bird  ; its  large  body,  long  neck,  clear  white 
color,  and  graceful  movements  place  it  among  the  very  first 
of  the  winged  tribe.  The  common  seal  are  numerous  in 
this  river.  It  is  very  difficult  to  shoot  them,  even  with  the 


180 


LOVE  OF  ARDENT  SPIRITS. 


best  rifles,  on  account  of  their  diving  with  extreme  sudden- 
ness atfthe  flash.  I had  a fair  opportunity  to  shoot  one  to- 
day, but  with  one  splash  he  was  out  of  sight  and  did  not 
again  appear.  When  I came  to  the  north-western  branch 
of  the  Multnomah,  I proceeded  down  four  miles  to  Fort 
William,  on  the  Wappatoo  island,  an  establishment  which 
belongs  to  Captain  Wyeth  and  Company.  The  location  is 
pleasant,  and  the  land  around  is  of  the  first  quality. 

Some  months  ago,  a tragical  occurrence  took  place  here 
between  two  men  from  the  United  States.  The  subject  of 
their  dispute  was  an  Indian  woman.  Thornburgh  was  de- 
termined to  take  her  from  Hubbard,  even  at  the  risk  of  his 
own  life.  He  entered  Hubbard’s  cabin  in  the  night,  armed 
with  a loaded  rifle,  but  H.  saw  him  and  shot  him  through 
the  breast,  and  violently  thrust  him  through  the  door.  Poor 
T.  fell  and  expired.  In  the  absence  of  any  judicial  tribu- 
nal, a self-created  jury  of  inquest,  on  examination  into  the 
circumstances  of  the  case,  brought  in  a verdict  of  “ justifia- 
ble homicide.” 

In  Thornburgh,  wTas  an  instance  of  a most  insatiable  ap- 
petite for  ardent  spirits.  Mr.  Townsend,  the  ornithologist, 
whom  I have  before  mentioned,  told  me  he  was  encamped 
out  for  several  days,  some  miles  from  Fort  William,  at- 
tending to  the  business  of  his  profession  ; and  that  in  addi-. 
tion  to  collecting  birds,  he  had  collected  rare  specimens 
of  reptiles,  wdfich  he  preserved  in  a keg  of  spirits.  Sev- 
eral days  after  he  was  in  this  encampment,  he  went  to  his 
keg  to  deposite  another  reptile,  and  found  the  spirits  gone. 
Mr.  Townsend,  knowing  that  Thornburgh  had  been  several 
times  loitering  about,  charged  him  with  having  drank  off 
the  spirits.  He  confessed  it,  and  pleaded  his  thirst  as  an 
apology. 


RETURN  TO  FORT  VANCOUVER. 


181 


On  Wednesday,  the  2d,  I returned  to  Fort  Vancouver, 
well  pleased  with  my  excursion.  The  weather  was  gene- 
rally pleasant,  free  from  winds  and  heavy  storms.  The 
w'hole  country  is  adapted  by  nature  to  yield  to  the  hand  of 
cultivation,  and  ere  long,  I may  say,  without  claiming  to 
be  prophetic,  will  be  filled,  through  the  whole  extent  of  the 
valley  of  the  Willamette,  with  farms  spread  out  in  rich 
luxuriance,  and  inhabitants,  whose  character  will  depend 
upon  the  religious  advantages  or  disadvantages  which  be- 
nevolent and  philanthropic  individuals  give  or  withhold.  I 
found  the  people  of  the  fort  in  their  usual  active  business 
pursuits,  and  received  a renewed  and  cordial  welcome. 


182 


SERVICES  ON  THE  SABBATH. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Services  on  the  Sabbath — obstacles  to  the  gospel — discouraging  case — 
manner  of  spending  time — description  of  Vancouver — fur  and  farm- 
ing establishment — garden  productions — lumber — commerce — pel- 
tries— system  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company — waste  of  life — hard- 
ships of  a hunter’s  life — their  perseverance — Christian  principle — 
worldly  principle. 

Sabbath,  6th.  I have  attended  three  services,  morning, 
afternoon,  and  evening,  and  expect  to  continue  them  during 
my  residence  in  this  place.  Through  the  week  there  will 
be  but  few  opportunities  to  do  much  for  the  spiritual  benefit 
of  the  common  laborers ; for  in  this  high  northern  latitude, 
the  days  in  the  winter  are  so  short  that  the  men  are  called 
out  to  their  work  before  daylight,  and  continue  their  labor 
until  near  dark ; and  as  their  families  do  not  understand 
English,  I have  no  direct  means  of  benefiting  them. 

There  is  another  circumstance  which  operates  against 
the  prospects  of  benefiting  many  of  the  population  here — 
the  common  practice  of  living  in  families  without  being 
married.  They  do  not  call  the  women  with  whom  they  live, 
their  wives,  but  their  women . They  know  they  are  living 
in  the  constant  violation  of -divine  prohibition,  and  acknow- 
ledge it,  by  asking  how  they  can,  with  any  consistency,  at- 
tend to  their  salvation,  while  they  are  living  in  sin.  I urged 
the  duty  of  entering  into  the  marriage  relation.  They  have 
two  reasons  for  not  doing  so.  One  is,  that  if  they  may 
wish  to  return  to  their  former  homes  and  friends,  they  can- 
not take  their  families  with  them.  The  other  is,  that  these 


DIFFICULTIES. 


183 


Indian  women  do  not  understand  the  obligations  of  the  mar- 
riage covenant,  and  if  they,  as  husbands,  should  wish  to 
fulfil  their  duties,  yet  their  wives  might,  through  caprice, 
leave  them,  and  they  should  be  bound  by  obligations,  which 
their  wives  would  disregard. 

There  is  no  doubt,  but  that  this  subject  is  attended  with 
real  difficulties,  but  are  they  insurmountable  ? Has  God 
given  a law,  which  if  obeyed  would  not  secure  our  greatest 
and  best  good  ? Can  a rational  mind  balance  for  a moment 
the  pleasure  of  a sinful  life  against  interests  which  stand 
connected  inseparably  with  permanent  happiness,  and  with 
a duration,  compared  to  which,  the  whole  of  this  mortal  life 
is  but  a speck,  a nothing.  My  heart  is  pained  when  I wit- 
ness the  things  which  are  seen  and  temporal  preferred  to 
those  that  are  unseen  and  pure,  and  which  are  commensu- 
rate with  existence  itself.  I cannot  believe,  that  if  these 
men  should  marry  the  women  with  whom  they  live,  and  do 
all  they  could  to  instruct  them,  and  treat  them  with  tender- 
ness and  respect,  that  there  would  be  many  cases  of  their 
leaving  their  husbands.  And  whatever  might  be  the  results, 
it  is  always  better  to  suffer  wrong,  than  do  wrong.  But  their 
social  comforts  are  so  strongly  bound  with  the  cords  of  sin, 
that  they  feel,  as  they  express  their  own  case,  that  it  is  use- 
less to  make  any  efforts  to  obtain  spiritual  freedom,  until 
they  shall  be  placed  in  different  circumstances. 

As  much  of  my  time,  through  the  week,  was  occu- 
pied in  study,  and  in  digesting  facts  connected  with  the 
natural  history  of  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  the  character  and  condition  of  the  Indians, 
which  came  under  my  observation  at  different  times  and 
places  ; and  also  that  which  I obtained  from  persons 
whose  testimony  could  be  relied  upon,  and  which  came 


184 


THE  HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY. 


under  their  personal  observation,  I shall  give  them  with- 
out particular  dates. 

I have  already  mentioned  my  agreeable  disappointment, 
in  finding  so  many  of  the  comforts  of  life,  at  different  trad- 
ing posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company ; I have  also  given 
a brief  description  of  the  local  situation  of  Fort  Vancouver. 
This  was  taken  from  such  observations  as  I could  make  in 
a hasty  view,  as  I was  prosecuting  my  journey  to  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific  ocean.  This  establishment  was  commenced 
in  the  year  1824.  It  being  necessary  that  the  gentlemen, 
who  are  engaged  in  transacting  the  business  of  the  Compa- 
ny west  of  the  mountains,  and  their  laborers,  should  be 
better  and  less  precariously  supplied  with  the  necessaries  of 
life,  than  what  game  furnishes ; and  the  expense  of  trans- 
porting suitable  supplies  from  England  being  too  great,  it 
was  thought  important  to  connect  the  business  of  farming 
with  that  of  fur,  to  an  extent  equal  to  their  necessary  de- 
mands, and  as  this  fort  is  the  central  place  of  business  to 
which  shipping  come,  and  from  which  they  depart  for  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  north-west  coast,  and  to  which,  and  from 
which,  brigades  of  hunting  parties  come  and  go ; the  prin- 
cipal farming  business  was  established  here,  and  has  been 
progressing  until  provisions  are  furnished  in  great  abund- 
ance. There  are  large  fertile  prairies,  which  they  occupy 
for  tillage  and  pasture,  and  forests  for  fencing  materials  and 
other  purposes.  In  the  year  1835,  at  this  post,  there  were 
four  hundred  and  fifty  neat  cattle,  one  hundred  horses,  two 
hundred  sheep,  forty  goats,  and  three  hundred  hogs.  They 
had  raised  the  same  year  five  thousand  bushels  of  wheat,  of 
the  best  quality  I ever  saw ; one  thousand  three  hundred 
bushels  of  potatoes  ; one  thousand  of  barley,  one  thousand 
of  oats,  two  thousand  of  peas,  and  a large  variety  of  garden 


HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY. 


185 


vegetables.  This  estimate  does  not  include  the  horses, 
homed  cattle,  &o.  and  produce  raised  at  other  stations. 
But  little,  however,  is  done  at  any  of  the  others,  excepting 
Colvile,  the  uppermost  post  on  the  northern  branch  of  the 
Columbia.  The  garden  of  this  station,  enclosing  about  five 
acres,  is  laid  out  with  regularity  and  good  taste.  While  a 
large  part  is  appropriated  to  the  common  esculent  vegeta- 
bles, ornamental  plants  and  flowers  are  not  neglected.  F ruit 
of  various  kinds,  such  as  apples,  peaches,  grapes,  and  straw- 
berries, for  the  time  they  have  been  introduced,  flourish  and 
prove  that  the  climate  and  soil  are  well  adapted  to  the  pur- 
poses of  horticulture.  Various  tropical  fruits,  such  as  figs, 
oranges,  and  lemons,  have  also  been  introduced,  and  grow 
with  about  the  same  care  that  they  would  require  in  the 
latitude  of  Philadelphia. 

In  connection  with  this  business  and  farming  establish- 
ment, the  Company  have  a flour-mill  worked  by  ox  power, 
which  is  kept  in  constant  operation  and  produces  flour  of 
excellent  quality.  Six  miles  up  the  Columbia,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  a stream  coming  from  the  north-east,  they  have 
a saw-mill  with  several  saws,  which  is  kept  in  operation 
most  of  the  year.  This  mill  though  large,  does  not  furnish 
more  lumber  than  a common  mill  would,  with  one  saw,  in 
the  United  States.  There  being  no  pine  below  the  Cas- 
cades, and  hut  very  little  within  five  hundred  miles  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  the  only  timber  sawed  in  this 
mill  is  fir  and  oak.  Besides  what  lumber  is  used  in  the 
i common  business  about  this  station,  one,  and  sometimes  two 
| ship  loads  are  sent  annually  to  Oahu,  Sandwich  islands,  and 
it  is  there  called  pine  of  the  north-west  coast,  and  sells  for 
about  fi  ‘ / dollars  the  thousand  feet.  Spars  and  timber  for 

i shipping  .dso  sent  to  that  market.  Boards  of  fir  are  not 

17 


186 


HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY. 


so  durable,  when  exposed  to  the  weather,  as  those  of  pine, 
nor  so  easily  worked.  One  half  of  the  grain  of  each  an- 
nual growth  is  very  hard,  and  the  other  half  soft  and  spungy, 
which  easily  absorbs  moisture  and  causes  speedy  decay. 
There  is  a bakery  here,  in  which  two  or  three  men  are  in 
constant  employment,  which  furnishes  bread  for  daily  use 
in  the  fort,  and  a large  supply  of  sea  biscuit  for  the  ship- 
ping and  trading  stations  along  the  north-west  coast.  There 
are  also  shops  for  blacksmiths,  joiners,  carpenters,  and  a 
tinner. 

Here  is  a well-regulated  medical  department,  and  a hospi- 
tal for  the  accommodation  of  the  sick  laborers,  in  which 
Indians  who  are  laboring  under  any  difficult  and  dangerous 
diseases  are  received,  and  in  most  cases  have  gratuitous  at- 
tendance. 

Among  the  large  buildings,  there  are  four  for  the  trading 
department.  One  for  the  Indian  trade,  in  which  are  depo- 
sited their  peltries  ; one  for  provisions ; one  for  goods  open- 
ed for  the  current  year’s  business ; and  another  for  storing 
goods  in  a year’s  advance.  Not  less  than  a ship  load  of 
goods  is  brought  from  England  annually,  and  always  at 
least  one  in  advance  of  their  present  use,  so  that  if  any  dis- 
aster should  befall  their  ship  on  her  passage,  the  business  of 
the  Company  would  not  have  to  be  suspended.  By  this 
mode  of  management,  there  is  rarely  less  than  two  ship 
loads  of  goods  on  hand.  The  annual  ship  arrives  in  the 
spring,  takes  a trip  to  Oahu  during  the  summer,  freighted  * 
with  lumber  to  the  island,  and  bringing  back  to  Vancouver 
salt  and  other  commodities,  but  generally  not  enough  for 
ballast ; and  in  the  last  of  September,  or  in  October,  she 
sails  for  England  with  the  peltries  obtained  during  the  pre- 
ceding year. 


THE  HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY. 


187 


The  fur  business  about  and  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
is  becoming  far  less  lucrative  than  in  years  past ; for  so 
extensively  and  constantly  have  every  nook  and  corner 
been  searched  out,  that  beaver  and  other  valuable  fur  ani- 
mals are  becoming  scarce.  It  is  rational  to  conclude  that 
it  will  not  be  many  years  before  this  business  will  not  be 
worth  pursuing  in  the  prairie  country,  south  of  the  50°  of 
north  latitude  ; north  of  this,  in  the  colder  and  more  densely 
wooded  regions,  the  business  will  not  probably  vary  in  any 
important  degree. 

But  very  few  Americans  who  have  engaged  in  the  fur 
business  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  have  ever  succeeded 
in  making  it  profitable.  Several  companies  have  sustained 
great  loss,  or  entire  failure,  owing  generally  to  their  igno- 
rance of  the  country,  and  the  best  mode  of  procedure. 
The  conductors  of  these  enterprises,  mainly,  were  inexpe- 
rienced in  Indian  trade,  and,  like  Americans  generally, 
they  perhaps  expected  the  golden  fruits  of  their  labor  and 
industry,  without  the  patience  requisite  to  ensure  it.  Hence 
the  results  have  frequently  been  disappointment.  The 
Hudson  Bay  Company  have  reduced  their  business  to  such 
a system,  that  no  one  can  have  the  charge  of  any  impor- 
tant transactions  without  having  passed  through  the  inferior 
grades,  which  constitutes  several  years’  apprenticeship. 
Their  lowest  order  are  what  they  call  servants,  (common 
laborers.)  All  above  these  are  called  gentlemen,  but  of 
different  orders.  The  lowest  class  are  clerks,  then  chief- 
clerks  ; next  traders,  and  chief-traders  ; factors,  and  chief- 
factors  ; and  the  highest,  governors.  Of  the  last  office 
there  are  only  two  ; one  resides  in  London,  who  is  at  the 
head  of  the  whole  business  of  the  Company,  and  the  other 
resides  in  Montreal,  Lower  Canada.  There  are  only  two, 


188 


THE  LIFE  OF  THE  HUNTER. 


chief-factors  west  of  the  Mountains,  John  McLaughlin,  Esq. 
and  Duncan  Finlayson,  Esq.  and  with  them  are  associated 
in  business  several  chief-traders  and  traders,  and  chief- 
clerks  and  clerks.  The  salaries  of  the  gentlemen  are  pro- 
portioned to  the  stations  they  occupy.  This  being  their 
system  of  business,  no  important  enterprise  is  ever  intrusted 
to  any  inexperienced  person. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  comparatively  few’  of  all 
those  who  engage  in  the  fur  business  about,  and  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  ever  return  to  their  native  land,  and  to 
their  homes  and  friends.  Mr.  P.  of  Fort  Walla  Walla, 
told  me,  that  to  keep  up  their  number  of  trappers  and  hunt- 
ers near,  but  west  of  the  mountains,  they  were  under  the 
necessity  of  sending  out  recruits  annually,  about  one  third 
of  the  whole  number.  Captain  W.  has  said,  that  of  more 
than  two  hundred  who  had  been  in  his  employment  in  the 
course  of  three  years,  only  between  thirty  and  forty  were 
known  to  be  alive.  From  this  data  it  may  be  seen  that  the 
life  of  hunters  in  these  far  western  regions  averages  about 
three  years.  And  with  these  known  facts,  still  hundreds 
and  hundreds  are  willing  to  engage  in  the  hunter’s  life,  and 
expose  themselves  to  hardships,  famine,  dangers,  and  death. 
The  estimate  has  been  made  from  sources  of  correct  infor- 
mation, that  there  are  nine  thousand  white  men  in  the  north 
and  in  the  great  west,  engaged  in  the  various  departments 
of  trading,  trapping  and  hunting,  including  Americans, 
Britons,  Frenchmen,  and  Russians.  It  is  more  than  one 
hundred  and  fifty  years  since  white  men  penetrated  far  into 
the  forests,  in  their  canoes  freighted  with  goods,  coasting 
the  shores  of  the  remote  lakes,  and  following  up  the  still 
more  remote  rivers,  to  traffick  with  the  Indians  for  their  furs, 
not  regarding  hunger,  toils,  and  dangers.  These  enterpri- 


CHRISTIAN  PRINCIPLE. 


189 


ses  have  been  extended  and  pursued  with  avidity,  until 
every  Indian  nation  and  tribe  has  been  visited  by  the  trader. 

What  is  the  power  of  that  principle  which  draws  these 
thousands  from  their  country,  and  their  homes,  and  all  the 
ties  of  kindred  ? Is  the  love  of  gain  and  hope  of  wealth 
the  motive  by  which  courage  and  daring  are  roused,,  and 
dangers  defied  ? And  shall  Christianity  be  a less  powerful 
principle  ? Has  it  only  furnished  twenty  or  thirty  mission- 
aries, whose  sole  motive  is  to  carry  the  gospel  to  the  many 
ten  thousand  Indians  in  the  widely  extended  country,  over 
which  are  ranging  nine  thousand  traders,  trappers  and 
hunters  ? Are  these  the  only  evidences  the  church  of  God 
can  give  of  sincerity  in  her  professions  of  attachment  to 
Christ,  and  to  the  interests  of  the  immortal  soul  ? If  so, 
then  Christians  surely  must  suffer  in  comparison  with 
worldly  men,  and  our  heaven-descended  religion,  if  judged 
of  by  its  restricted  fruits,  must  be  deemed  unworthy  of  its. 
name  and  origin.  But  this  want  of  Christian  enterprise, 
characterized  by  the  late  period  in  which  it  is  begun,  and 
carried  forward  with  such  slow  and  faltering  steps,  is  not 
only  to  be  lamented  as  a blot  upon  the  Christian  name,  but 
incomparably  more  is  it  to  be  lamented  that  in  consequence, 
generation  after  generation  of  the  heathen,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  thousands  who  are  trafficking  among  them,  are  left  in 
their  ignorance  of  the  Savior  to  perish  eternally.  How 
long  shall  it  be,  that  wThen  an  adventurous  man  forms  a 
plan  for  traffick  in  far  distant  wilds,  in  a short  time  a com- 
pany is  formed  with  a capital  of  fifty  thousand  dollars,  and 
a hundred  men  are  found  to  face  hardships  and  dangers, 
and  they  are  away  ? But  when  a Christian  heart  is  stirred 
up  to  go  and  carry  the  gospel  to  some  far  distant  Indian  na- 
tion, he  may  plead  and  plead  for  four  men  and  two  thou-. 

17* 


190 


CHRISTIAN  PRINCIPLE. 


sand  dollars,  and  perhaps  in  vain.  But  it  is  said,  a great 
deal  is  now  doing  for  the  heathen  world.  How  much? 
As  much  as  to  give  jive  ministers  to  the  United  States.  All 
that  is  doing  for  the  conversion  of  the  heathen  is  not  more 
than  it  would  cost  to  build,  and  man,  and  defray  the  expen- 
ses of  one  ship  of  war. 


INDIAN  POPULATION. 


191 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Indian  population — diseases — mortality— attributed  to  cultivation  of 
the  soil— destitute  of  medical  science — holidays- — customs  at  home- 
customs  of  the  Indians— resemblance  to  Jewish  customs  in  punish- 
ment— marriage  contracts — condition  of  the  females — slavery- 
division  into  tribes — -two  points  of  dissimilarity — -sacrifices— lan- 
guage. 

1 have  found  the  Indian  population  in  the  lower  country, 
that  is,  below  the  falls  of  the  Columbia,  far  less  than  I had 
expected,  or  what  it  was  when  Lewis  and  Clarke  made  their 
tour.  Since  the  year  1829,  probably  seven-eighths,  if  not  as 
Dr.  McLaughlin  believes,  nine-tenths,  have  been  swept  away 
by  disease,  principally  by  fever  and  ague.  The  malignan- 
cy of  this  disease  may  have  been  increased  by  predisposing 
causes,  such  as  intemperance,  and  the  influence  of  intercourse 
with  sailors.  But  a more  direct  cause  of  the  great  mortal- 
ity, was  their  mode  of  treatment.  In  the  burning  stage  of 
the  fever  they  plunged  themselves  into  the  river,  and  con- 
tinued in  the  water  until  the  heat  was  allayed,  and  rarely 
survived  the  cold  stage  which  followed.  So  many  and  so 
sudden  were  the  deaths  which  occurred,  that  the  shores 
were  strewed  with  the  unburied  dead.  Whole  and  large 
villages  were  depopulated ; and  some  entire  tribes  have  dis- 
appeared, the  few  remaining  persons,  if  there  were  any, 
uniting  themselves  with  other  tribes.  This  great  mortality 
extended  not  only  from  the  vicinity  of  the  Cascades  to  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific,  but  far  north  and  south ; it  is  said  as 


192 


HOLIDAYS. 


far  south  as  California.  The  fever  and  ague  was  never 
known  before  the  year  1829,  and  Dr.  McLaughlin  mention- 
ed it  as  a singular  circumstance,  that  this  was  the  year  in 
which  fields  were  ploughed  for  the  first  time.  He  thought 
there  must  have  been  spme  connexion  between  breaking  up 
the  soil  and  the  fever.  I informed  him  that  the  same  fever 
prevailed  in  the  United  States,  about  the  same  time,  and  in 
places  which  had  not  before  been  subject  to  the  complaint. 
The  mortality,  after  one  or  two  seasons,  abated,  partly  from 
the  want  of  subjects,  and  partly  from  medical  assistance  ob- 
tained from  the  hospital  at  Fort  Vancouver.  The  mortality 
of  Indians  and  their  sufferings  under  diseases  are  far  greater 
than  they  would  be,  if  they  were  furnished  with  a know- 
ledge of  medicine.  Indian  doctors  are  only  Indian  conju- 
rers. But  I shall  have  occasion  to  say  more  upon  this  sub- 
ject when  I describe  Indian  customs. 

December  25th.  The  holidays  are  not  forgotten  in  these 
far  distant  regions.  From  Christmas  until  after  the  New 
Year,  all  labor  is  suspended,  and  a general  time  of  indulgence 
and  festivity  commences.  Only  this  once  in  the  whole  year 
are  ardent  spirits  given  to  the  laborers,  when  they  have  a free 
allowance,  furnishing  them  the  opportunity  to  exhibit  fully 
what  they  would  do,  if  spirits  were  easily  and  always  acces- 
sible. On  Christmas  morning  they  dress  themselves  in  their 
best  attire,  accelerated  movements  are  seen  in  every  direction, 
and  preparation  is  made  for  dinners,  which  are  sure  to  be  fur- 
nished in  their  first  style,  and  greatest  profusion ; and  the 
day  passes  in  mirth  and  hilarity.  But  it  does  not  end  with 
the  day ; for  the  passions  and  appetites  pampered  through 
the  day,  prepare  the  way  for  the  night  to  be  spent  in  dan- 
cing, and  loud  and  boisterous  laughter,  shouts,  and  revelry, 
consume  the  hours  designed  for  rest.  They  continue  these 


CUSTOMS  AT  HOME. 


193 


high-strung  convivialities  until  they  pass  the  portals  of  the 
new  year,  when  labor  and  toil  resume  their  place. 

Such  are  often  the  customs  of  those  who  profess  to  be 
wiser  and  better.  The  expiring  year  vanishes,  amidst  the 
noise  and  revels  of  many,  who  pretend  by  such  methods 
to  honor  the  birth  of  our  Savior,  and  the  introduction  of  that 
only  religion,  which  requires  perfect  purity  and  perfect 
order.  And  too  many  give  as  they  profess,  but  a decent 
honor  and  respect  to  those  festival  days,  when  from  house 
to  house  of  their  best  or  indifferent  friends,  the  wine  is  cir- 
culated until  they  become  genteelly  inebriated.  And  is  it 
so,  that  these  days  are  baptized  with  the  name  of  holy  days  ? 
The  piety  of  primitive  Christians  undoubtedly  led  them  to 
observe  the  supposed  anniversary  of  our  Savior’s  birth,  but 
whenever  such  uncommanded  observances  are  greatly  abu- 
sed, the  same  piety  will  exert  itself  to  bring  about  a reform- 
ation ; and  if  this  cannot  be  done,  then  to  abolish  the  cus- 
tom altogether.  Hezekiah,  king  of  Judah,  in  the  case  of  the 
brazen  serpent,  which  was  preserved  as  a memorial  of  the 
salvation  wrought  instrumentally  by  it  for  those  who  were 
bitten  by  the  fiery  serpents,  destroyed  it  when  the  people 
idolized  and  burned  incense  to  it. 

The  question  whether  there  is  any  evidence  that  the  In- 
dians are  descended  from  the  ten  lost  tribes  of  Israel,  though 
frequently  and  largely  discussed,  has  not  been  satisfactorily 
answered.  From  all  the  personal  observations  I could 
make,  and  efforts  at  examination,  I could  not  obtain  any 
thing  conclusive  upon  the  subject,  but  am  induced  to  believe 
that  their  origin  will  remain  as  problematical  in  future,  as 
it  has  been  in  time  past.  There  are  some  things  in  their 
belief  and  customs  which  favor  the  idea  that  they  are  of  Isra- 
elitish  descent.  Their  entire  freedom  from  idolatry  is  a pe- 


194 


RESEMBLANCE  TO  JEWISH  CUSTOMS. 


culiar  characteristic,  by  which  they  are  distinguished  from 
all  other  heathen.  It  will  be  remembered  that  this  propen- 
sity of  the  Jews  to  idolatry  was  entirely  subdued  from  the 
time  of  their  captivity  in  Babylon.  It  was  predicted  by  the 
prophet  Hosea  of  the  children  of  Israel,  that  “they  should 
abide  many  days  without  a king,  and  without  a prince  and 
without  a sacrifice.”  Among  the  Indians  beyond  the  moun- 
tains, I found  no  idols,  nor  any  appearance  of  idolatry. 
They  believe  in  only  one  God,  and  all  their  worship,  so  far 
as  they  have  any,  is  offered  to  Him,  or  as  they  would  say, 
to  the  Great  Spirit.  They  believe  in  the  immortality  of  the 
soul,  and  future  rewards  and  punishments.  They  have  no 
sacrifices,  no  kings,  and  no  prince.  Their  government  is 
invested  entirely  in  their  chiefs,  no  one  of  whom  has  any 
special  control  over  the  others,  or  over  the  people,  but  they 
always  act  in  united  councils.  Their  minds  are  perfectly 
open  to  receive  any  truth  in  regard  to  the  character  and 
worship  of  God.  They  have  many  traditions  and  super- 
stitions ; and  some  persons  can  hardly  see  the  distinction  be- 
tween a reverence  for  these,  and  idol  worship — for  instance, 
though  they  may  believe  that  the  Great  Wolf  and  the  Grey 
Bear  scrambled  together  the  mountains  in  a fight,  yet  they 
do  not  worship  either. 

Their  custom  of  punishing  the  crime  of  murder,  if  it  does 
not  differ  from  that  of  all  other  heathen  nations,  yet  coin- 
cides with  what  was  the  custom  of  the  Jews.  The  nearest 
relatives  of  the  murdered  person  are  the  “avengers  of 
blood,”  the  executioners,  or  “pursuers  of  blood.”  They  kill 
the  murderer  if  they  can  find  him ; and  in  their  own  tribe 
or  nation,  they  do  not  extend  the  punishment  to  any  other 
person,  so  that  “ the  fathers  are  not  put  to  death  for  the 
children,  neither  are  the  children  put  to  death  for  the  fathers  ; 


RESEMBLANCE  TO  JEWISH  CUSTOMS. 


195 


every  man  is  put  to  death  for  his  own  sin.”  As  the  Jews 
did  not  regard  other  nations  with  the  same  benevolence  as 
their  own,  so  the  Indians  make  a distinction  between  their 
own  tribe  or  nation,  and  others.  If  one  is  killed  by  a per- 
son belonging  to  another  nation,  if  they  cannot  obtain  and 
put  the  murderer  to  death,  they  will  take  the  life  of  some  of 
the  relatives  of  the  murderer ; or,  if  they  fail  of  this,  some 
one  of  the  nation  must  atone  for  the  crime.  And  if  this 
cannot  be  done  immediately,  the  debt  of  blood  will  still  be  de- 
manded, though  years  may  pass  away  before  it  is  canceled. 

There  is  also  some  resemblance  in  their  marriage  con- 
tractSi  The  negotiation  is  commenced,  if  not  completed, 
with  the  parents  of  the  intended  bride,  as  in  the  case  of 
Isaac’s  marrying  Rebekah.  Abraham  directed  his  servant 
to  go  to  his  kindred  and  take  a wife  for  his  son  Isaac.  He 
went,  and  when  God  had  shown  him  that  Rebekah  was  the 
appointed  person,  he  first  consulted  her  father  and  brother, 
and  when  their  approbation  was  obtained,  Rebekah’s  ap- 
proval closed  the  contract,  and  presents  were  made  to  the 
several  members  of  the  family.  The  customs  of  the  In- 
dians are  substantially  the  same.  The  bridegroom  negoti- 
ates with  the  parents,  and  the  approbation  of  the  daughter 
being  obtained,  the  stipulated  commodities  are  paid  and  the 
man  takes  his  wife.  But  as  much  or  more  is  given  in 
dowry  to  the  daughter.  The  presents  and  dowry  are  pro- 
portioned to  the  rank  and  wealth  of  the  contracting  parties. 
Wanaxka,  the  first  chief  of  the  Clough-e-wall-hah  Indians, 
has  refused  more  than  one  hundred  dollars  for  a beautiful 
daughter,  whom  I saw  when  I shared  the  hospitality  of  his 
house.  A chief  at  the  La  Dalles  has  refused  two  horses 
and  six  blankets,  together  with  several  other  articles  of 
smaller  value.  It  is  not,  however,  to  be  understood,  that 


196 


RESEMBLANCE  TO  JEWISH  CUSTOMS. 


marriage  is  a mere  mercenary  transaction ; for  fancy  and 
choice  have  their  influence  with  them,  as  well  as  among 
more  refined  people. 

Another  resemblance  between  the  Indians  and  the  Jews 
may  be  traced  in  the  estimation  in  which  the  females  are 
held.  No  doubt  the  degradation  of  Indian  women  is  to  be 
attributed  in  a large  degree  to  heathenism,  and  that  unciv- 
ilized and  savage  state  in  which  we  find  them ; yet  in  their 
respective  occupations  we  find  some  features  which  are  not 
dissimilar.  Among  those  nations  and  tribes  who  do  not  pos- 
sess slaves,  the  women  cut  and  prepare  wood  for  fire,  as 
well  as  food  for  their  families,  they  pack  and  unpack  the 
horses,  set  up  and  take  down  lodges,  gather  roots  and  ber- 
ries for  food,  dress  the  skins  for  clothing,  and  make  them 
into  garments.  So  the  Jewish  women  drew  water  for  flocks 
and  camels,  and  watched  over  them  ; they  gleaned  the  fields 
in  harvest ; they  also  performed  the  work  of  grinding  in  the 
mill.  Our  Savior  refers  to  this,  when  he  foretold  the  de- 
struction of  Jerusalem.  “ Two  women  shall  be  grinding 
at  the  mill,  one  shall  be  taken  and  the  other  left.” 

Slavery  was  suffered  among  the  Jews,  and  undoubtedly 
for  the  same  reasons  that  polygamy  was,  and  the  putting 
away  their  wives  by  writing  a bill  of  divorcement.  While 
the  great  law-giver  did  not  at  once  abolish  the  practice,  he 
brought  it  under  modified  restrictions.  The  stealing  and 
selling  a man  was  punishable  with  death.  If  a man  bought 
a Hebrew  servant,  the  time  of  his  service  was  not  to  exceed 
six  years.  Intermarriages  took  place  between  these  ser- 
vants and  the  families  of  their  masters ; and  the  betrothed 
maid  was  to  be  treated  like  a daughter.  The  same  restric- 
tions were  not,  however,  enjoined  in  relation  to  those  bond- 
men  who  were  bought  of  the  heathen,  until  the  days  of  the 


RESEMBLANCE  TO  JEWISH  CUSTOMS. 


197 


prophets,  when  they  were  commanded  to  break  every  yoke 
and  let  the  oppressed  go  free.  So  also  slavery  exists  in  a 
modified  form  among  the  Indians  west  of  the  mountains,  not 
generally,  but  only  among  the  nations  in  the  lowrer  country. 
They  are  bought ; taken  prisoners  in  war ; taken  in  pay- 
ments of  debts*  if  they  are  orphans  of  the  debtor  ; and  sell 
themselves  in  pledges.  They  are  put  to  the  same  service 
which  women  perform  among  those  Indians  who  have  no 
slaves.  They  are  generally  treated  with  kindness  ; live  in 
the  same  dwelling  with  their  masters,  and  often  intermarry 
with  those  who  are  free.  They  are  exempt  from  one  cruel 
practice  which  their  masters  inflict  upon  their  own  children, 
the  flattening  of  their  heads.  The  reason,  which  those  wrho 
possess  slaves  assign  for  flattening  their  own  heads,  is,  that 
they  may  be  distinguished  from  their  slaves  who  have  round 
heads. 

Polygamy  is  practiced  among  the  Indians,  and  with 
nearly  the  same  regulations  with  which  it  was  prac- 
ticed among  the  Jews.  Though  they  do  not  write  bills 
of  divorcement  and  put  away  their  wives,  yet  they 
send  them  away  on  slight  occasions.  But  this  brings 
no  disgrace  upon  the  woman’s  character,  and  gene- 
rally she  is  soon  married  to  another,  and  often  as  ad- 
vantageously. 

Another  resemblance  between  the  Jews  and  the  Indians 
is  the  division  of  their  nations  into  tribes.  The  tribes  of 
the  children  of  Israel  were  the 'descend  ants  of  distinguished 
families,  and  their  government  was  patriarchal.  The  tribes 
among  the  Indians  are  constituted  much  in  the  same  way. 
Some  important  personage  gains  an  influence,  numbers  be- 
come attached  to  him  ; and  though  they  do  not  separate 

from  their  nation,  nor  at  once  become  a distinct  tribe,  yet 

18 


198 


RESEMBLANCE  TO  JEWISH.  CUSTOMS. 


they  are  denominated  a band,  and  these  bands  in  many 
cases  grow  up  into  tribes. 

How  much  allusion  there  may  be  to  the  ancient  Jewish 
custom  of  wearing  “ fringes  to  the  borders  of  their  gar- 
ments/5 I am  not  able  to  determine  by  eliciting  any  facts 
from  Indian  tradition,  but  the  practice  is  universal  among 
the  tribes  west  of  the  mountains,  as  far  as  my  observation 
extended — and  so  fond  are  they  of  this  ornament  to  their 
dress,  that  every  seam  in  their  garments  is  furnished  with  it. 

There  is  one  consideration  which  should  not  be  passed 
over,  and  which  may  appear  to  be  against  the  evidences 
that  the  Indians  are  of  Israelitish  origin. 

Every  different  nation  has  an  entirely  distinct  language. 
These  languages  are  more  distinct  than  the  different  lan- 
guages of  Europe  ; for  in  all  the  different  languages  of  Eu- 
rope there  are  words  derived  from  Latin,  common  to  each, 
which  prove  a common  relation.  Now,  if  the  Indians  are 
descended  from  the  Jews,  and  of  course  once  had  a common 
language,  the  Hebrew,  notwithstanding  their  departure  by 
different  dialects  from  their  original,  might  it  not  be  expected 
that  there  would  still  remain  words  and  idioms  indicative  of 
their  common  origin.  But  it  is  not  so,  as  may  be  seen  in  a 
vocabulary  of  a few  languages  which  I shall  subjoin.  They 
have  some  words  in  common  with  Latin,  Greek  and  He- 
brew, but  these  are  used  in  an  entirely  different  sense  from 
that  in  which  they  are  used  in  those  languages.  As  far  as 
it  respects  language,  the  proof  of  a Jewish,  or  even  of  a 
common  origin,  is  not  only  doubtful  but  highly  improbable. 


ANIMALS. 


199 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

The  Various  animals  beyond  the  Mountains. 

It  is  generally  supposed  that  wild  animals,  in  all  Indian 
countries  and  especially  in  the  far  regions  beyond  the  moun- 
tains, are  very  numerous;  but,  excepting  buffalo  within 
their  range,  which  is  becoming  more  and  more  circum- 
scribed, game  is  scarce.  In  giving  an  account  of  animals 
beyond  the  mountains,  I shall  not  go  into  a minute  descrip- 
tion of  those  which  are  familiar  to  all  classes  of  persons. 

Among  the  animals  of  the  genus  cervus , the  elk  is  the 
largest  and  most  majestic.  It  exists  in  considerable  num- 
bers east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  is  less  numerous  on 
the  west  side.  It  combines  beauty  with  magnitude  and 
strength,  and  its  large  towering  horns  give  it  an  imposing 
appearance.  Its  senses  are  so  keen  in  apprehension,  that  it 
is  difficult  to  be  approached;  and  its  speed  in  flight  is  so 
great  that  it  mocks  the  chase.  Its  flesh  resembles  beef, 
though  less  highly  flavored,  and  is  much  sought  for  by  the 
Indians  and  hunters.  Its  skin  is  esteemed,  and  much  used 
in  articles  of  clothing  and  for  moccasons. 

I did  not  see  the  moose ; they  are  said  to  be  found  farther 
north,  in  the  colder  and  woody:  regions. 

There  are  three  species  of  deer;  the  red,  the  black-tailed, 
and  the  common  American  deer.  Like  those  found  in  other 
countries,  they  are  of  a mild,  innocent,  timid  aspect;  ele- 
gant in  form,  with  slender,  nervous  limbs.  When  any  ob- 
ject or  noise  alarms  them,  they  throw  up  their  heads,  erect 


200 


ANIMALS. 


and  move  their  ears  in  every  direction  to  catch  the  sounds ; 
snuff  up  the  wind,  and  bound  off  with  great  celerity.  The 
deer  west  of  the  mountains  are  more  lean  and  the  flesh  is 
less  inviting  than  those  found  in  the  United  States.  This 
may  arise  from  the  nature  of  the  food  to  which  they  are 
confined,  having  less  opportunity  for  browsing,  especially 
upon  such  shrubbery  as  is  congenial  to  their  natures,  there 
being  but  very  few  of  the  sacchariferous  kinds  found  in 
their  country. 

The  red  deer  are  generally  found  about  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia. 

The  black-tailed  deer,  while  they  are  of  a dusky  sallow 
color,  like  the  common  American  deer,  are  somewhat  darker, 
and  their  tails  are  larger  and  nearly  black,  which  gives  them 
their  name.  Their  eyes  are  large  and  prominent,  their  ears 
are  also  large  and  long,  and  judging  from  those  I saw,  they 
are  smaller  than  the  common  deer.  When  they  move  faster 
than  a walk,  they  bound. 

The  antelope,  which  I have  already  described,  page  61st, 
are  numerous  in  the  upper  and  prairie  country. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  the  beaver,  so  noted  for 
its  valuable  fur,  for  its  activity,  and  perseverance, — its  so- 
cial habits,  its  sagacity  and  skill  in  constructing  its  village, 
and  preparing  its  neat  and  comfortable  dwellings,  is  an  in- 
habitant of  this  country.  It  has  been  sought  with  avidity, 
and  has  been  a source  of  wealth  to  many,  but  to  multitudes, 
of  poverty,  misery  and  death.  It  would  be  difficult  to  sum 
up  the  woes  of  the  last  class  of  adventurers.  Its  flesh  is 
very  good  for  food,  and  the  trapper  and  hunter  depend  al- 
most entirely  upon  it  for  subsistence,  while  in  its  pursuit. 
Although  I ate  several  times  the  flesh  of  the  beaver,  yet  I 
discovered  no  evidence  of  the  truth  of  the  assertion  often 


ANIMALS. 


201 


made,  that  while  the  flesh  of  the  fore  parts  is  of  the  quality 
of  land  animals,  its  hind  parts  are  in  smell  and  taste  like 
fish.  I should  think  it  would  require  much  assistance  from 
imagination  to  discover  the  fish  taste. 

Here  also  the  land  otter  is  found,  and  is  somewhat  numer- 
ous, and  next  to  the  beaver  is  sought  with  avidity  by  the 
hunter  and  trader.  The  shades  of  its  color  vary  from  a light, 
to  a deep,  beautiful  brown.  The  fur  is  rich  and  in  great  de- 
mand, and  there  is  none  found  in  any  country  of  better  qual- 
ity than  the  skins  I saw  at  different  trading  posts  of  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company.  Its  formation  is  adapted  to  land  and 
water,  having  short  and  muscular  legs,  so  articulated  that  it 
can  bring  them  horizontal  with  its  body,  and  use  them  as 
fins  in  the  water ; and  its  toes  are  webbed  like  water  fowl. 
It  subsists  principally  upon  fish,  frogs  and  other  aquatic 
animals.  It  has  a peculiar  habit,  which  seems  to  be  its 
pastime,  for  we  know  of  no  motive  it  can  have,  unless 
it  be  the  love  of  amusement,  which  is  to  ascend  a high 
ridge  of  snow,  and  with  its  legs  thrown  back,  slide 
down  head  foremost  upon  its  breast.  When  there  is  no 
snow,  it  will  in  the  same  manner  slide  down  steep, 
smooth,  grassy  banks. 

The  sea  otter,  so  highly  and  justly  valued  for  its  rich  fur, 
is  found  only  along  the  American  coast  and  adjacent  islands, 
from  Kamschatka  to  upper  California.  They  vary  in  size, 
are  generally  about  four  feet  long  when  full  grown,  and 
nine  inches  in  diameter.  Its  legs  are  very  short,  and  its 
feet  are  webbed.  Its  fur  is  of  the  first  quality,  long  and 
glossy,  extremely  fine,  intermixed  with  some  hairs  ; the  out- 
side is  black,  sometimes,  however,  dusky,  and  the  inside  a 
cinerous  brown.  They  are  amphibious,  sportive,  and  often 

bask  upon  the  shore  for  repose,  and  when  asleep  the  Indians 

18* 


202 


ANIMALS. 


approach  and  slay  them.  They  have  been  so  much  hunted 
for  their  valuable  fur,  that  they  are  diminishing  in  numbers. 

The  hair  seal  is  very  frequently  seen  in  the  waters  of 
Columbia  river.  Its  head  is  large  and  round,  its  eye  full 
and  mild.  I often  saw  it  swimming  after  our  canoe,  present- 
ing to  view  its  head,  neck,  and  shoulders,  appearing,  in  some 
degree,  like  the  mastiff  dog.  Its  hair  is  of  various  colors, 
generally  a dappled  gray.  It  rarely  goes  far  from  its  most 
natural  element,  water  ; but  is  sometimes  seen  basking  upon 
rocks  on  the  shore,  and  this  is  the  most  favorable  opportu- 
nity for  killing  it ; for  its  motions  are  so  quick  in  the  water, 
that  it  will  submerge  at  the  flash  of  the  rifle,  and  if  killed 
in  the  water  it  sinks,  and  is  difficult  to  be  obtained. 

In  enumerating  the  animals  beyond  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, I am  not  able,  as  might  be  expected,  to  describe  the 
Rocky  Mountain,  or  big-horn  sheep.  I am  unwilling  to 
state,  as  facts,  the  descriptions  of  others,  especially  as  there 
are  so  many  wrong  statements  made  in  natural  history.  I 
did  not  see  any  of  these  animals,  which  probably  I should 
have  done,  if  they  were  as  numerous  as  travelers  have  said 
they  are.  I saw  their  horns,  which  are  enormously  large, 
if,  as  it  is  said,  their  bodies  are  not  much  larger  than  a com- 
mon deer.  A horn  which  I measured,  was  five  inches  in 
diameter  at  its  juncture  with  the  head,  and  eighteen  long. 
Its  flesh,  of  which  I had  an  opportunity  to  eat,  was  far  pref- 
erable to  the  best  mutton.  They  inhabit  the  mountains, 
and  are  said  to  select  the  most  rough  and  precipitous  parts 
where  grass  is  found.  They  are  not  covered  with  wool, 
but  with  hair  so  bordering  upon  wool  as  to  render  its  coat 
warm  in  the  winter. 

The  mountain  goat,  and  sheep,  did  not  come  under  my 
observation.  I was  anxious  to  obtain  specimens  of  them 


ANIMALS. 


203 


for  description,  but  succeeded  in  obtaining  only  small  parts 
of  their  skins. 

The  racoon  is  somewhat  numerous  in  parts  of  this  coun- 
try, more  especially  towards  the  ocean.  I could  not  dis- 
cover any  difference  in  their  appearance  and  habits  from 
those  in  the  United  States. 

The  badger  inhabits  this  country,  and  is  found  on  the 
plains  west  of  the  great  chain  of  mountains.  Having  giv- 
en a short  description  of  this  animal,  page  62,  when  passing 
through  the  parts  where  it  was  seen,  it  is  not  necessary  in 
this  place  to  make  any  further  remarks. 

The  weasel,  the  polecat,  the  marmot,  the  mink  and  musk- 
rat, are  common,  though  not  numerous,  in  this  country,  and 
not  differing  from  those  on  the  eastern  part  of  this  conti- 
nent, they  do  not  need  description. 

The  wolverine  is  said  to  inhabit  these  western  regions, 
and  I saw  one  in  the  Salmon  river  mountains,  which  my  In- 
dians killed.  The  animal  differed  in  several  particulars  from 
the  description  given  by  Richardson.  It  was  one  foot  nine 
inches  from  its  nose  to  its  tail ; its  body  was  not  large  in 
proportion  to  the  length,  short  legs,  small  eyes  and  ears  ; the 
neck  short,  and  as  large  as  the  head,  and  its  mouth  shaped 
like  that  of  the  dog.  Its  color  was  uniformly  a dark  brown, 
nearly  black  ; and  its  fur  was  more  than  an  inch  long  and 
coarse.  I had  no  opportunity  of  observing* its  habits. 

The  hedgehog  is  common  in  all  parts  of  the  Oregon  Terri- 
tory, does  not  differ  from  those  found  in  other  parts  of  Amer- 
ica, and  for  its  quills,  is  held  in  high  estimation  by  the  Indi- 
ans. It  is  interesting  to  see  with  how  much  ingenuity,  and 
in  how  many  various  forms,  the  Indians  manufacture  these 
quills  into  ornamental  work,  such  as  moccasons,  belts*  and 
various  other  articles. 


204 


ANIMALS. 


There  are  three  kinds  of  squirrels — two  of  which  I have 
already  described.  The  third  is  the  gray,  which  differs 
from  those  in  the  United  States  in  being  larger  and  its  color 
more  beautifully  distinct.  I saw  many  of  their  skins  made 
into  robes  and  worn  by  the  Indians  about  the  Cascades. 

Of  the  feline,  or  cat  kind,  there  are  the  panther,  the  long 
tailed  tiger  cat,  the  common  wild  cat,  and  the  lynx.  The 
panther  is  rarely  seen,  and  the  difference  of  climate  and 
country  produces  no  change  in  its  ferociousness  and  other 
habits,  from  those  found  in  other  parts  of  America.  The 
long  tailed  tiger  cat  is  more  common,  very  large,  and  of  a 
dull  reddish  color.  Also  the  common  wild  cat  is  often 
seen.  It  is  much  smaller,  its  tail  is  short  and  its  color  is  like 
the  above  named.  I can  only  name  the  lynx,  as  they  did 
not  come  under  my  observation.  It  is  in  the  lower,  wooded 
country  they  are  found,  and  the  Indians  say  they  are  nu- 
merous. 

There  are  five' different  species  of  wolves;  the  common 
gray  wolf,  the  black,  blue,  white,  and  the  small  prairie  wolf. 
The  common  gray  wolf  is  the  same  as  those  found  in  the 
United  States,  and  has  all  their  common  habits.  The  black 
wolf,  I did  not  see,  but  as  described  by  Mr.  Ermitinger,  a 
gentleman  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  is  larger 
than  the  gray  and  more  noble  in  its  appearance,  and  is  the 
strongest  of  the  wolf  kind.  Those  which  the  same  gentle- 
man called  the  blue  wolf,  are  rarely  seen,  as  also  the  white, 
and  so  far  as  their  habits  are  known,  they  do  not  materi- 
ally differ  from  others.  The  small  prairie  wolf  is  the  most 
common,  and  bears  the  greatest  resemblance  to  the  dog, 
and  has  been  called  the  wild  dog.  It  differs  from  the  dog 
in  all  the  peculiarities  of  the  wolf  kind  as  much  as  the 
others  do.  It  is  as  uniform  in  its  color,  size,  and  habits. 


ANIMALS. 


205 


They  are  of  a dull  reddish  gray,  never  particolored ; the 
hair  is  always  long,  blended  with  brown  fur  at  its  roots, 
and  like  other  wolves  they  are  always  prowling  and  cow- 
ardly. They  are  more  numerous  than  the  other  kinds,  and 
in  considerable  numbers  follow  the  caravans  to  feed  upon 
the  offals.  Although  we  frequently  heard  them  howl  and 
bark  around  our  encampments,  yet  they  never  disturbed 
our  rest. 

Much  has  been  said  about  the  immense  number  of  wolves 
beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  I did  not  find  them  so 
numerous  as  I expected.  I do  not  make  this  assertion 
solely  from  the  fact  that  I saw  or  heard  only  a few,  but 
from  the  testimony  of  those  whose  long  residence  in  this 
country  entitles  them  to  credit.  It  is  the  traveler  who 
never  saw  the  country  he  describes,  or  the  lover  of  the 
marvelous,  or  he  who  does  not  expect  soon  to  be  followed 
in  his  route  through  dreary  and  uninhabited  wilds,  who 
sees,  and  minutely  relates,  adventures  with  the  reptiles  and 
monsters  of  the  desert. 

The  fox,  which  is  generally  dispersed  through  the  world, 
is  found  here  in  three  different  kinds ; the  red,  gray,  and 
silver.  They  do  not  differ  from  those  found  east  of  the 
mountains.  The  silver  gray  fox  is  scarce,  and  highly 
esteemed,  and  takes  the  highest  rank  among  the  furs  of 
commerce.  Its  color  is  dark,  sometimes  nearly  black,  the 
ends  of  the  hairs  tipped  with  white,  and  in  addition  to  the 
uncommon  fine  texture,  the  fur  presents  a beautiful  glossy 
appearance. 

Martins  are  not  abundant ; some  are  found  about  the 
head  waters  of  the  Columbia  in  woody  mountains,  but  they 
are  more  numerous  and  of  superior  quality  farther  north. 

The  inoffensive,  timorous  hare,  in  three  different  species, 


206 


ANIMALS. 


abounds  in  all  parts  of  this  country.  Its  natural  instinct 
for  self-preservation,  its  remarkably  prominent  eye,  its  large 
active  ear,  and  its  soft  fur,  are  its  characteristics  in  this,  as 
mother  regions.  The  three  species  are,  the  large  common 
hare,  which  is  generally  known,  the  small  chief  hare  with 
large  round  ears,  and  a very  small  species,  only  five  or  six 
inches  long,  with  pointed  ears.  If  the  first  named  differs 
in  any  particular  from  those  in  the  United  States,  it  is  in 
its  manner  of  running,  and  its  speed.  Its  bound  is  not  reg- 
ular, but  its  motions  are  an  alternate  running  and  leaping 
at  an  almost  incredible  distance,  and  with  such  swiftness 
that  I frequently  mistook  it,  at  first  view,  for  the  prairie 
hen,  which  I supposed  was  flying  near  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  Its  flesh,  when  used  for  food,  is  tender  and  of  a 
pleasant  flavor. 

The  only  dress  which  many  of  the  Indians  have  to  pro- 
tect them  from  the  cold,  is  made  of  the  skins  of  these  ani- 
mals, patched  together  into  a scanty  robe. 

There  is  a small  species  of  the  marmot,  of  which  I have 
seen  no  description  in  any  work  on  natural  history,  which 
is  probably  peculiar  to  this  country.  It  is  called  by  the 
Nez  Perces,  eluet ; is  five  inches  long  from  the  tip  of  its 
nose,  exclusive  of  its  tail,  which  is  two  in  length — its  body 
is  one  inch  and  a third  in  diameter,  the  color  is  brown, 
beautifully  intermixed  with  small  white  spots  upon  its  back. 
It  has  eight  long  hairs  projecting  from  the  nose,  on  each 
side,  and  two  over  each  eye.  Its  habits  resemble  those  be- 
longing to  its  genus.  It  is  remarkably  nimble  in  its  move- 
ments. The  Indians  esteem  its  flesh  a luxury. 

There  are  four  varieties  of  bears,  though  it  is  supposed 
there  are  only  two  distinct  species.  These  are  the  white, 
grizzly,  brown,  and  black.  The  white  bear  is  ferocious  and 


ANIMALS. 


207 


powerful,  but  their  numbers  are  so  small  in  the  region  of 
the  Oregon  country,  that  they  are  not  an  object  of  dread. 
But  the  grizzly  bear  is  far  more  numerous,  more  formidable, 
and  larger,  some  of  them  weighing  six  or  eight  hundred 
pounds.  Their  teeth  are  formed  for  strength,  and  their 
claws  are  equally  terrific,  measuring  four  or  five  inches ; 
and  their  feet,  which  are  astonishingly  large,  exclusive  of 
the  claws,  measuring  not  far  from  ten  inches  long,  and  five 
inches  wide.  There  are  some  even  larger.  The  shades  of 
their  color  vary  from  very  light  gray  to  a dark  brown, 
always  retaining  the  grizzly  characteristic.  Among  a mul- 
titude of  their  skins  which  I saw,  there  were  some  beauti- 
fully dappled,  and  as  large  as  buffalo  robes.  These  were 
held  in  high  estimation.  Their  hair  and  fur  is  longer,  finer, 
and  more  abundant  than  of  any  other  species.  They  de- 
pend more  upon  their  strength  than  speed  for  taking  their 
prey,  and  therefore  generally  lurk  in  willows  or  other  thick- 
ets, and  suddenly  seize  upon  any  animal  which  may  be 
passing  near.  The  mountain  men  tell  as  many  wonderful 
stories  about  their  encounters  with  these  prodigies  of  strength 
and  ferocity,  as  some  mountain  travelers  tell  us  about  con- 
stant battles  with  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  and  starvation,  and 
eating  dogs.  Now  I may  be  considered  deficient  in  & flex- 
ible and  fruitful  imagination,  if  I do  not  entertain  my  read- 
ers with  one  bear  story,  after  having  traveled  thousands  of 
miles  over  prairies,  and  mountains,  through  valleys,  ravines, 
and  amongst  caves,  chasms  and  deserts.  But  as  I did  not 
myself  have  any  wonderful  encounters,  I must  borrow  from 
a gentleman  of  established  good  character,  belonging  to  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  who  gave  me  an  account  of  a case 
which  he  witnessed.  He  and  a number  of  others  were 
traveling  in  canoes  up  the  Athabasca  river,  and  one  morn- 


208 


ANIMALS. 


in g one  of  their  hunters  shot  upon  the  shore  a large  cub  of 
a grizzly  bear,  which  they  took  on  board  a canoe,  and  of 
which  they  made  their  supper  on  encamping  for  the  night. 
While  seated  around  their  fire  in  conversation,  the  supposed 
mother  of  the  slain  cub  approached,  sprang  across  the  cir- 
cle and  over  the  fire,  seized  the  hunter  who  had  shot  the 
cub,  threw  him  across  her  shoulder,  and  made  off  with  him. 
They  all  laid  hold  of  their  rifles  and  pursued,  but  feared  to 

fire  lest  they  should  injure  their  companion.  But  he  re- 

✓ 

quested  them  to  fire,  which  one  of  them  did  and  wounded 
the  bear.  She  then  dropped  the  first  offender,  and  laid  hold 
of  the  last  in  like  manner  as  the  first,  but  more  roughly, 
and  accelerated  her  departure.  There  was  no  time  to  be 
lost,  and  several  fired  at  the  same  time,  and  brought  her  to 
the  ground.  The  last  man  was  badly  wounded  but  recov- 
ed. The  “ great  medicine”  or  mystery  in  this  case,  I shall 
not  attempt  to  explain,  but  let  every  one  account  for  it  in 
his  own  way. 

The  brown  bear  is  less  ferocious,  more  solitary,  and  not 
highly  esteemed  either  for  food  or  for  its  skin.  The  black 
bear  is  somewhat  similar  in  its  habits  to  the  brown,  but  lives 
more  upon  vegetable  food,  and  is  more  in  estimation  for  its 
pure  black,  well-coated  skin. 

I close  with  the  buffalo,  which  is  of  the  bovine  genus,  and  ^ 
is  the  largest  and  the  most  important  for  food  and  covering  of 
any  of  the  animals  in  our  country.  I need  not  in  this  place 
go  into  so  long  description,  as  otherwise  would  be  important, 
having  already  spoken  of  them  as  I was  passing  through 
their  range  of  country.  After  having  seen  thousands  and 
ten  thousands  of  them,  and  having  had  months  of  time  to 
examine  their  forms  and  habits,  I do  not  think  they  should 
be  classed  with  the  buffalo  or  bison  of  the  eastern  continent. 


ANIMALS. 


209 


Not  with  the  buffalo,  if  historians  have  given  a correct  de- 
scription of  those  on  that  continent.  The  flesh  of  those  is 
said  to  be  “black,  hard,  and  very  unpalatable;  their  hides 
impenetrable,  making  soft  and  smooth  leather — their  race 
is  so  fierce  and  formidable,  that  there  is  no  method  of 
escaping  their  pursuit  but  by  climbing  up  into  some  immense 
tree ; for  a moderate  tree  would  be  broken  down  by  them, 
and  many  travelers  have  instantly  been  gored  to  death  by 
them  and  trampled  to  pieces  under  their  feet.”  It  is  said 
“ their  voice  is  a hideous  loud  bellow.”  But  none  of  these 
things  are  true  of  the  buffalo  of  our  country. 

If  a true  account  has  been  given  of  the  bison  of  the  east- 
ern continent,  our  buffalo  differ  from  them  in  several  mate- 
rial traits  of  character  and  habits.  Those  of  the  eastern 
continent,  are  said  to  have  “ small  heads,  with  horns  so  wide 
spread,  that  three  men  can  sit  between  them, — that  their 
eyes  are  small,  red  and  fiery, — that  they  have  a hump  upon 
their  backs  like  a camel,  and  which  is  preferred  to  be  eat- 
en for  its  delicacy- — that  they  are  fierce  and  vindictive,  so 
that  men  have  to  fly  to  trees  for  safety, — that  the  bulls  and 
cows  live  in  separate  bands.”  These  things  do  not  corres- 
pond with  the  buffalo  or  bison  of  our  western  prairies. 

The  buffalo  or  bison  of  our  country  are  generally  about 
as  large  as  our  domestic  neat  cattle,  and  the  long,  shaggy, 
woolly  hair  which  covers  their  head,  neck,  and  shoulders, 
gives  them  a formidable  appearance,  at  a distance  some- 
thing like  the  lion.  In  many  particulars  they  resemble 
our  horned  cattle ; are  cloven  footed,  chew  the  cud,  and 
select  the  same  kind  of  food.  Their  flesh  is  in  appearance 
and  taste  much  like  beef,  but  of  superior  flavor,  and  remark- 
ably easy  of  digestion.  Their  heads  are  formed  like  the  ox, 

perhaps  a little  more  round  and  broad,  and  when  running, 

19 


210 


ANIMALS. 


they  carry  them  rather  low.  Their  horns,  ears  and  eyes, 
as  seen  through  their  shaggy  hair,  appear  small,  and  cleared 
from  their  covering,  they  are  not  large.  Their  legs  and 
feet  are  small  and  trim,  the  fore  legs  covered  with  the  long 
hair  of  the  shoulders  as  low  down  as  the  knee.  Though 
their  figure  is  clumsy  in  appearance,  yet  they  run  swiftly 
and  for  a long  time  without  much  slackening  their  speed ; 
and  up  steep  hills  or  mountains  they  more  than  equal  the 
best  horses.  They  unite  in  herds,  and  when  feeding,  scat- 
ter over  a large  space,  but  when  fleeing  from  danger,  they 
collect  into  dense  columns,  and  having  once  laid  their  course, 
they  are  not  easily  diverted  from  it,  whatever  may  oppose. 
Their  power  of  scent  is  great,  and  they  perceive  the  hunter 
when  he  is  on  the  windward  side,  at  a great  distance,  and 
the  alarm  is  taken,  and  when  any  of  them  manifest  fear, 
they  are  thrown  into  confusion,  until  some  of  the  cows,  from 
the  instinct  of  fear,  take  the  lead  to  flee  from  the  pursuer, 
and  then  all  follow  at  the  top  of  their  speed.  So  far  are 
they  from  being  a fierce  and  revengeful  animal,  they  are 
very  shy  and  timid  • and  in  no  case  did  I see  them  offer  to 
make  an  attack,  but  in  self  defense  when  wounded  and 
closely  pursued,  and  then  they  always  sought  the  first  op- 
portunity to  escape.  When  they  run  they  lean  alternately 
from  one  side  to  the  other.  The  herds  are  composed  pro- 
miscuously of  bulls  and  cows,  except  some  of  the  old  bulls, 
which  are  often  found  by  themselves  in  the  rear  or  in  ad- 
vance of  the  main  bands.  Sometimes  an  old  blind  one  is 
seen  alone  from  all  others  ; and  it  was  amusing  to  see  their 
consternation  when  they  apprehend  the  approach  of  danger. 
The  natural  instincts  of  fear  and  prudence  lead  them  to  fly 
alternately  in  every  possible  direction  for  safety.  I was 
pleased  to  find  our  most  thoughtless  young  men  respect 


ANIMALS. 


211 


their  age  and  pity  their  calamity  ; for  in  no  instance  did  I 
see  any  abuse  offered  them.  They  are  fond  of  rolling  upon 
the  ground  like  horses,  which  is  not  practiced  by  our  do- 
mestic cattle.  This  is  so  much  their  diversion,  that  large 
places  are  found  without  grass  and  considerably  excavated. 
The  use  of  their  skins  for  robes,  and  the  woolly  fur,  with 
which  they  are  covered,  are  so  universally  known,  that  a 
description  is  entirely  unnecessary.  Another  peculiarity 
which  belongs  to  them  is,  that  they  never  raise  their  voice 
above  a low  bellow  ; in  no  instance  were  we  disturbed  by 
their  lowing,  even  when  surrounded  by  thousands,  and  in 
one  of  our  encampments,  it  was  supposed  there  were  five 
thousand  near.  It  has  been  said  they  do  not  visit  any  of 
the  districts  formed  of  primitive  rocks.  This  is  said  with- 
out reason,  for  I saw  them  as  frequently  in  those  districts, 
in  proportion  to  their  extent,  as  where  other  formations  ex- 
isted. It  is  also  said  as  they  recede  from  the  east  they  are 
extending  west.  This  is  also  incorrect ; for,  as  I have  be- 
fore said,  their  limits  are  becoming  more  and  more  circum- 
scribed. And  if  they  should  continue  to  diminish  for  twenty 
years  to  come,  as  they  have  during  the  last  twenty,  they 
will  become  almost  extinct. 


212 


FISH. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Fish — description  of  salmon — salmon  fishery — ornithology — dendro- 
logy — shrubbery — nutritive  roots — geography — mountains — valleys 
— plains — forests — rivers — soil — seasons. 

I pass  to  a brief  notice  of  the  fish  found  in  the  waters  of 
the  Columbia.  Their  number  is  great,  but  their  variety  is 
small.  The  salmon,  sturgeon,  anchovy,  rock  cod,  and  trout 
are  all  that  I shall  mention.  The  sturgeon  of  good  quality 
and  in  large  numbers,  commence  ascending  the  rivers  in  the 
fore  part  of  April,  and  furnish  food  to  the  suffering  Indians. 
I say  suffering,  for  before  the  opening  of  the  spring,  their 
stock  of  provisions  are  consumed,  and  they  are  seen  search- 
ing for  roots  and  any  thing  which  will  sustain  life ; and 
though  I do  not  feel  authorized  to  say  what  others  have  said, 
that  in  the  latter  part  of  the  winter  and  fore  part  of  spring, 
they  die  with  starvation  in  great  numbers,  yet  they  are 
brought  to  extreme  want,  and  look  forward  to  the  time  when 
the  sturgeon  shall  come  into  the  river  with  great  solicitude. 
A small  fish,  like  the  anchovy,  about  six  inches  long,  very^ 
fat  and  well  flavored,  come  into  the  river  in  great  numbers 
about  the  same  time  or  a little  before  the  sturgeon.  The 
Indians  obtain  large  quantities  of  oil  from  them,  by  putting 
them  into  a netting  strainer  and  exposing  them  to  gentle 
heat. 

The  rock  codfish  were  not  known  to  inhabit  the  waters 
about  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  until  the  present  year. 
They  are  very  fine  and  easily  caught. 


FISH. 


213 


The  salmon  is  far  the  most  numerous  and  valuable  fish 
found  in  these  waters,  and  is  of  excellent  flavor.  It  is  well 
ascertained  that  there  are  not  less  than  six  different  species 
of  the  true  salmon  that  ascend  these  waters,  commencing 
about  the  twentieth  of  April.  Their  muscular  power  is  ex- 
ceedingly great,  which  is  manifested  in  passing  the  falls  and 
rapids,  which  would  seem  insuperable.  They  are  never 
known  to  return,  but  are  constantly  pressing  their  way  up- 
wards, so  that  it  is  not  uncommon  to  find  them  in  the  small 
branches  of  the  rivers  near  the  very  sources.  We  found 
them  in  September  near  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  they 
are  said  to  be  as  late  as  November  and  December.  I saw 
some  with  parts  of  their  heads  worn  to  the  bone  and  the  skin 
worn  from  various  parts  of  their  bodies,  which  appears  to 
be  the  result  of  efforts  to  ascend  until  they  perish.  Late  in 
the  season,  great  numbers  are  found  dead,  furnishing  food 
for  crows,  and  even  Indians ; for  I have  seen  them  drive 
away  the  crows  and  appropriate  the  remnants  to  themselves. 
When  the  salmon  become  much  emaciated,  the  flesh  loses 
its  rich  redness,  and  it  is  seen  in  the  skin,  which  gives  the 
fish  a beautiful  appearance;  but  when  in  this  state  it  is 
hardly  edible.  It  is  worthy  of  notice,  that  the  salmon  has 
its  preferences  of  water,  selecting  some  branches  of  the  Co- 
lumbia river  and  passing  by  others;  and  those  taken  in  some 
of  the  tributary  streams  are  far  better  than  those  taken  in 
others.  While  those  which  ascend  the  rivers  never  return, 
the  young  are  seen  in  September  descending  on  their  way 
to  the  ocean,  in  immense  numbers.  It  is  believed  these  re- 
turn the  fourth  year  after  their  descent ; but  this  may  be 
only  conjecture.  It  is  difficult  to  estimate  how  many  sal- 
mon might  be  taken  in  these  rivers,  if  proper  measures  were 

pursued;  and  also  what  would  be  the  results  upon  the  num- 

19* 


214 


FISHERY. 


bers  which  would  continue  to  enter  and  ascend.  I think 
without  doubt  a plan  might  be  devised  and  adopted  to  carry 
on  a salmon  fishery  in  this  river  to  good  advantage  and  profit. 
The  experiment  Was  made  by  a company  from  the  United 
States,  which  failed,  for  it  contained  the  elements  of  its  own 
overthrow.  The  company  sent  out  large  quantities  of  rum, 
probably  calculating  on  the  fact  that  the  Indians  are  fond  of 
ardent  spirits,  and  if  they  should  gratify  this  appetite,  they 
should  enlist  them  in  their  favor,  and  as  Indians  will  do  any- 
thing for  rum,  they  would  catch  and  sell  the  fish  to  them. 
Whatever  the  object  of  the  company  might  have  been  in 
sending  and  dealing  out  so  much  rum,  the  Indians  were  high- 
ly pleased  with  receiving  it  in  pay  for  their  salmon.  But 
when  they  had  thus  obtained  it  they  would  become  intoxi- 
cated and  disqualified  for  labor,  and  more  time  was  wasted 
in  drunkenness,  than  employed  in  fishing.  Besides,  the  sal- 
mon were  often  suffered  to  lie  in  the  hot  sun  until  they 
were  much  injured,  if  not  wholly  spoiled.  The  result  was, 
that  the  company,  as  I was  informed,  obtained  only  about 
four  hundred  barrels  of  salmon,  and  made  a losing  voyage ; 
and  the  superintendent  of  Fort  Vancouver  told  me,  that  when 
the  company  abandoned  their  business,  they  stored  many 
barrels  of  rum  at  his  fort.  My  information  was  not  wholly 
derived  from  those  who  had  been  in  the  employment  of  that 
company,  and  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  but 
in  part  from  the  Indians,  who  often  spoke  to  me  upon  the 
subject  by  way  of  praise.  They  would  say,  “dose,  Mas 
him ” signifying,  good,  plenty  of  rum. 

The  birds  of  Oregon  are  not  as  numerous  as  those  which 
inhabit  civilized  countries,  probably  because  they  have  not 
access  to  the  grain  and  fruit  of  cultivated  fields,  and  the 
woods  and  groves  are  more  widely  dispersed.  But  they 


ORNITHOLOGY. 


215 


are  sufficiently  numerous  to  employ  an  ornithologist  profita- 
bly, for  a great  length  of  time  in  collecting  and  preserving 
specimens.  This  region  is  particularly  interesting  from 
the  fact,  that  in  this  as  in  other  departments  of  natural 
science,  it  has  hitherto  been  an  unexplored  field — no  com- 
petent scientific  person  having  visited  this  country  to  clas- 
sify the  different  genera  and  species.  Mr.  J.  K.  Townsend, 
of  Philadelphia,  an  ornithologist,  has  spent  two  years  in  ex- 
amining scientifically  this  field,  and  will  probably  give  to 
the  public  the  result  of  his  labors.  I am  indebted  to  him 
for  assistance  in  the  following  summary. 

The  largest  part  of  the  feathered  race  are  migratory,  and 
are  seen  only  a part  of  the  year  ; there  are  many,  however, 
that  reside  here  during  the  whole  year.  Among  these  are 
the  majestic  white-headed  eagle,  and  the  golden  eagle,  and 
three  or  four  species  of  hawks,  two  species  of  jay,  the  mag- 
pie, and  thousands  of  ravens  and  crows ; several  species  of 
small  sparrows,  and  two  or  three  species  of  grouse,  the 
common  partridge  of  the  United  States,  and  the  dusky 
grouse  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ; and  also  an  interesting 
species  of  the  dipper  or  water  ousel.  The  habits  of  this 
bird  are  very  curious  and  peculiar,  particularly  that  of  de- 
scending to  the  bottom  of  ponds  and  swiftly  running  streams, 
and  there  in  search  of  small  shell-fish,  remaining  under 
water,  for  at  least  two  minutes,  during  which  time  it  will 
course  about  upon  the  pebbly  bottom,  with  as  much  appa- 
rent ease  and  satisfaction,  as  if  upon  dry  land.  The  red- 
winged black-bird  and  the  robin  continue  through  the  year. 
The  notes  of  the  latter  are  heard  even  in  the  chill  of  the 
winter,  though  in  feeble  strains. 

As  the  autumn  advances,  the  number  of  swans,  geese, 
and  ducks  multiply.  I have  already  mentioned  these  wa- 


216 


ORNITHOLOGY. 


ter  fowl.  The  black  cormorant  is  common  upon  the  Co- 
lumbia river,  and  there  are  other  species  of  the  same  genus, 
seen  about  the  shores  of  the  Cape,  which  do  not  ascend  the 
rivers.  Among  these  is  the  violet  green  cormorant,  the 
most  splendid  of  all  the  known  species  of  cormorants.  The 
loon,  or  great  northern  diver,  is  very  plentiful  in  this  river. 
Gulls,  terns,  auks,  and  petrels,  in  great  numbers,  visit  this 
river  to  seek  shelter  from  the  violent  storms  which  agitate 
the  ocean  during  the  winter. 

The  spring,  with  rising  vegetation  and  opening  flowers, 
brings  its  hosts  of  lovely  feathered  tribes,  which  remain  for 
different  periods  of  time ; many  of  them  continue  only  a 
few  weeks,  and  then  retire  to  other  parts  for  nidification. 
There  are,  however,  great  numbers  that  remain  through 
the  summer,  and  their  delightful  songs  add  to  the  charms 
of  a fine  morning  of  April  and  May.  Among  these  are 
hundreds  of  warblers,  wrens,  titmice  and  nuthatches.  Of 
the  warblers  there  are  eleven  species,  six  of  which  are 
new  ; the  other  five  are  common  to  the  States.  Several  of 
the  species  are  but  transient  visitors,  but  most  of  them  re- 
main through  the  season.  Of  the  wrens  there  are  six  spe- 
cies ; three  of  the  titmice,  and  two  of  the  nuthatches.  And 
in  the  train  follow  the  thrushes,  of  which  there  are  seven 
species,  two  of  which  are  new  ; of  these  Wilson’s  thrush  is 
pre-eminent  in  sweetness  of  song.  The  fly  catchers  num- 
ber eight  species,  three  of  which  are  new ; and  there  are 
thirteen  species  of  the  finches,  three  of  which  are  new. 
These  are  a large  and  musical  band,  among  which  are 
several  of  the  finest  songsters  known  in  the  world.  In  no 
instance  do  we  find  more  richness  and  delicacy  of  plumage, 
with  the  most  sweet  melody  of  voice,  than  in  a new  species 
of  large  bullfinch,  which  visits  this  section  of  country  in  the 


DENDROLOGY. 


217 


spring.  If  these  were  domesticated,  they  would  form  a 
most  valuable  addition  to  any  aviary.  There  are  eight 
species  of  woodpeckers,  four  of  which  are  new  ; and  of  the 
swallow  tribe  there  are  five  species,  one  of  which  is  new, 
and  the  most  beautiful  of  the  family,  characterized  by  a 
splendid  changeable  green  plumage  on  the  head  and  back, 
while  the  other  parts  are  purple  and  white.  About  the 
middle  of  March,  the  splendid  little  Nootka  humming  bird 
makes  his  appearance,  coming  so  suddenly  that  you  won- 
der from  whence  he  came,  as  the  fact  of  his  performing  a 
long  migration  of  weeks,  with  his  delicate  little  wings,  over 
a cold  and  flowerless  country,  or  across  the  sea,  seems  in- 
credible. The  neck  of  this  beautiful  bird  presents  fine  va- 
riations of  color;  now  it  is  ruby  red,  with  a metallic  lustre ; 
turn  it,  and  the  tints  vary  from  purple  to  violet  and  crimson, 
according  as  the  light  falls  upon  it. 

I pass  over  the  mention  of  many  genera,  and  still  more 
numerous  species  of  the  different  birds  of  this  region,  as  it 
is  not  my  design  to  attempt  a history  of  them,  but  only  to 
give  a succinct  sketch,  that  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the 
ornithological  treasures  of  this  interesting  country. 

Having  frequently  made  mention  of  the  trees  and  shrub- 
bery west  of  the  great  mountains,  I shall  in  this  place  only 
enumerate  the  principal,  describing  a few.  I have  said 
there  are  three  species  of  fir,  and  that  they  constitute  far 
the  greatest  part  of  the  forest  trees,  and  are  very  large. 
The  three  kinds  are  the  red,  yellow  and  white.  They  dif- 
fer not  only  in  the  color  of  the  wood,  but  also  in  their  foli- 
age. The  foliage  of  the  red  is  scattered  on  all  sides  of  the 
branchlets  in  the  same  form  as  those  found  in  the  United 
States ; the  yellow  only  on  the  upper  side,  or  the  upper 
half  of  the  twigs  ; the  white  is  oppositely  pinnated.  The 


218 


DENDROLOGY. 


balsam  is  alike  in  the  three  different  species,  found  in  blis- 
ters upon  the  bark  in  the  same  form  as  in  other  countries. 

White  pine  is  not  native  in  the  lower  country,  nor  far 
west  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ; a few 
pitch  are  found  in  the  same  region  with  the  white.  Nor- 
way and  yellow  pine  are  native  farther  west,  but  not  below 
the  Cascades.  The  new  species,  which  I have  called  the 
elastic  pine,  is  far  the  most  numerous,  but  I did  not  see  any 
of  these  as  far  west  as  Walla  Walla. 

The  cedar  is  the  common  species,  grows  very  large  and 
tall,  and  is  the  best  of  the  forest  trees  for  various  mechani- 
cal uses.  The  yew  is  also  found  among  the  evergreens, 
though  it  is  scarce.  The  tamarisk  is  found  in  small  sec- 
tions of  the  country.  The  white  oak  of  good  quality,  and 
often  large,  is  a common  tree  of  the  forest,  and  also  the 
black,  rough-barked  oak  grows  in  some  of  the  mountainous 
parts.  In  an  excursion  down  the  rich  plains  below  Fort 
Vancouver,  where  there  are  trees  scattered  about  like  shade 
trees  upon  a well  cultivated  farm,  I measured  a white  oak, 
which  was  eight  feet  in  diameter,  continued  large  about 
thirty  feet  high,  and  then  branched  out  immensely  wide, 
under  which  Mr.  T.  and  myself,  with  our  horses,  found  an 
excellent  shelter  during  a shower  of  rain.  There  are  two 
kinds  of  ash,  the  common  white  ash  and  the  broad  leafed.. 
The  latter  is  very  hard.  There  is  also  alder,  which  I have 
mentioned  as  growing  very  large,  and  on  dry  ground  as  well 
as  on  that  which  is  low  and  swampy. 

There  are  three  species  of  poplar,  the  common  aspen,  the 
cotton  and  balm.  The  first  is  common  in  various  parts  of 
the  United  States,  and  is  well  known ; the  second  common- 
ly called  cotton- wood,  skirting  rivers  and  streams  as  in  the 
western  States ; the  third  is  the  Populus  balsamifera , often 


SHRUBBERY. 


219 


called  the  balm  of  Gilead.  Its  distinguishing  properties 
are  ovate  leaves,  and  a bitter  balsam  in  a glutinous  state 
found  in  the  small  twigs,  but  mostly  in  the  buds.  This  last 
species  in  some  places  spreads  over  large  sections  of  bottom- 
land, where  the  soil  is  uncommonly  good.  White  maple  is 
found,  but  only  in  small  quantities.  Willows  of  various 
species  are  common  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  There  is 
a tree  in  the  lower  country  which  grows  much  in  the  form 
of  the  laurel  or  bay  tree,  but  much  larger, — the  bark  is 
smooth  and  of  a red  bay  color,  its  leaves  are  ovate.  It  has 
been  called  the  strawberry  tree,  but  I do  not  know  with  what 
propriety.  There  are  no  walnut  or  hickory  trees  west  of 
the  great  mountains,  nor  chestnut  of  any  species,  or  hard 
or  sugar  maple,  or  beach,  linden  or  bass-wood,  black  cherry, 
cucumber,  white  wood,  elms,  or  any  kind  of  birch,  except 
a species  of  black  birch  which  grows  small ; nor  are  there 
any  of  the  species  of  locusts,  hackberry,  or  buckeye.  I 
might  lengthen  out  the  catalogue  of  negatives,  but  the  above 
observations  are  sufficient  to  give  a general  view  of  the  for- 
ests trees  of  the  country. 

The  variety  of  shrubbery  and  plants  is  so  numerous,  that 
their  examination  would  employ  the  botanist  many  months. 
I shall  only  sketch  a few  of  those  which  are  scattered  over 
the  prairies  and  through  the  forests.  Among  these  are  sev- 
eral varieties  of  the  thorn-bush,  many  of  which  are  large  and 
fruitful.  Those  bearing  the  red  apple,  present,  when  they 
are  ripe,  a very  beautiful  appearance.  There  is  one  species 
peculiar  to  the  country  west  of  the  mountains,  the  fruit  of 
which  is  black  and  of  a delightfully  sweet  taste,  but  not  gen- 
erally dispersed  through  the  country.  It  is  principally  na- 
tive about  the  Blue  Mountains,  the  Walla  Walla  and  Um- 
matilla  rivers.  The  choke  cherry  is  common  to  all  parts  of 


220 


PLANTS. 


the  country,  and  its  fruit  is  very  grateful  where  animal  food 
is  principally  depended  upon  for  subsistence.  The  salalber- 
rv  is  a sweet  and  pleasant  fruit,  of  a dark  purple  color,  oblong, 
and  about  the  bigness  of  a grape.  The  serviceberry  is  about 
the  size  of  a small  thorn  apple,  black  when  fully  ripe,  and 
pleasantly  sweet  like  the  whortleberry ; and  the  pambina 
is  a bush  cranberry.  The  varieties  of  the  gooseberry  are 
many, — the  common  prickly,  which  grows  very  large  on  a 
thorny  bush, — the  small  white,  which  is  smooth  and  very 
sweet, — the  large  smooth  purple,  and  the  smooth  yellow, 
which  are  also  of  a fine  flavor.  All  of  these  attain  to  a 
good  maturity,  and  those  growing  on  the  prairies  are  very 
superior.  There  are  three  varieties  of  the  currant,  the 
pale  red,  the  yellow,  which  is  well  tasted,  and  the  black. 
Though  these  are  a pleasant  acid,  yet  they  are  not  so  prolific 
and  desirable  as  those  which  grow  under  the  hand  of  culti- 
vation. The  beautiful  shrub  Symphoria  racemosa , called  the 
snowberry,  which  is  found  in  some  of  our  gardens,  grows 
here  wild  and  in  great  abundance. 

Besides  the  common  raspberries,  there  is  a new  species 
which  grows  in  the  forests,  the  berry  of  which  is  three  times 
as  large  as  the  common,  is  a very  delicate  rich  yellow,  but 
the  flavor  is  less  agreeable.  There  is  a new  species  of 
sweet  elder  which  I have  already  described.  The  trailing 
honeysuckle  is  among  the  first  ornaments  of  nature. 

The  sweet  flowering  pea  grows  spontaneously,  and  in 
some  places  embellishes  large  patches  of  ground.  In  some 
small  sections  red  clover  is  found,  differing,  however,  from 
the  kind  cultivated  by  our  farmers,  but  not  less  sweet  and 
beautiful ; white  clover  is  found  in  the  upper  and  moun- 
tainous parts.  Strawberries  are  indigenous,  and  their  fla- 
vor more  delicious  than  any  I have  tasted  in  other  countries. 


GEOGRAPHY. 


221 


Wild  flax  I have  mentioned  and  described  on  page  90. 

Sun-flowers  are  common,  but  do  not  grow  large ; also  a 
species  of  broom-corn,  is  found  in  many  places  of  the  bot- 
tom-lands of  the  Columbia  and  other  streams.  To  these 
may  be  added  a wild  grain  somewhat  resembling  barley,  or 
rye. 

Among  the  nutritive  roots,  I have  mentioned  the  wappa- 
too  and  the  cammas.  The  wappatoo,  is  the  common  sagit - 
taria , or  arrow  head,  and  is  found  only  in  the  valley  of  the 
Columbia  below  the  Cascades.  The  root  is  bulbous,  and 
becomes  soft  by  roasting,  forming  a nourishing  and  agreea- 
ble food,  is  much  used  by  the  Indians,  and  is  an  article  of 
trade.  It  grows  in  shallow  lakes,  and  in  marshes  which  are 
covered  with  water.  The  Indian  women  wade  in  search  of 
this  root,  feel  it  out  in  the  mud  and  disengage  it  with  their 
feet,  when  it  rises  to  the  surface  of  the  water  and  is  secured. 
The  cammas,  a tunicated  root,  in  the  form  of  an  onion,  is  of 
great  importance  to  the  Indians  and  grows  in  moist,  rich 
ground.  It  is  roasted,  pounded,  and  made  into  loaves  like 
bread,  and  has  a taste  resembling  licorice.  The  cowish,  or 
biscuit  root,  grows  on  dry  land,  somewhat  larger  than  a 
walnut,  tastes  like  the  sweet  potato,  is  prepared  in  the  same 
manner  for  food  as  the  cammas,  and  is  a tolerable  substi- 
tute for  bread.  To  these  may  be  added  the  racine  amere , or 
bitter  root,  which  grows  on  dry  ground,  is  fusiform,  and 
though  not  pleasant  to  the  taste,  is  very  conducive  to  health ; 
also  the  common  onion,  and  another  characterized  by  its 
beautiful  red  flower,  which  often  grows  upon  patches  of 
volcanic  scoria  where  no  other  vegetation  is  seen. 

Although  a description  of  the  Oregon  Territory  has  been 
necessarily  interwoven  in  the  narrative,  yet  a condensed  ac- 
count of  its  geography  may  with  propriety  be  given  here. 

20 


222 


MOUNTAINS. 


In  comparing  the  country  west  with  that  east  of  the  moun- 
tains, especially  the  great  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  we  are 
impressed  very  powerfully  with  the  strong  contrast  which 
their  distinguishing  features  present.  The  valley  of  the 
Mississippi  may  be  called  the  garden  of  the  world — every 
part  abounding  in  rich  soil  inviting  cultivation.  We  see 
no  barren  or  rocky  wastes,  no  extended  swamps  or  marshes 
— no  frozen  mountains.  Destitute  of  prominent  land-marks 
to  catch  the  eye  of  the  traveler,  he  sees  in  the  wide  distance 
before  him  only  the  almost  horizontal  lines  of  level  or  roll- 
ing meadow.  No  one  points  him  to  the  peaks  of  dim  moun- 
tains and  tells  him  that  the  range  divides  two  sister  states, 
or  separates  two  noble  rivers.  He  sees  no  clouds  resting 
on  the  shoulders  of  lofty  Butes  and  blending  their  neutral 
tint  with  the  hazy  blue  of  the  landscape  before  him — nor 
Tetons  rearing  their  heads  into  the  region  of  perpetual 
snow — and  day  after  day  he  pursues  his  journey  without 
'anything  to  create  in  his  bosom  emotions  of  the  grand,  and 
sublime,  unless  it  be  the  vastness  of  the  expanse. 

Beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  nature  appears  to  have 
studied  variety  on  the  largest  scale.  Towering  mountains 
and  widely  extended  prairies,  rich  valleys  and  barren 
plains ; and  large  rivers  with  rapids,  cataracts  and  falls, 
present  a great  diversity  of  prospect.  The  whole  country 
is  so  mountainous,  that  there  is  not  an  elevation  from  which 
a person  cannot  see  some  of  the  immense  ranges  which 
intersect  its  different  parts.  On  an  elevation  a short  dis- 
tance from  Fort  Vancouver,  five  isolated  conical  mountains, 
from  ten  to  fifteen  thousand  feet  high,  whose  tops  are  cov- 
ered with  perpetual  snow,  may  be  seen  rising  in  the  sur- 
rounding valley.  There  are  three  general  ranges,  west  of 
the  rocky  chain  of  mountains,  running  in  northern  and 


VALLEYS— PLAINS. 


223 


southern  directions.  The  first  above  the  Falls  of  the  Co- 
lumbia river  ; the  second  at  and  below  the  Cascades ; the 
third  towards  and  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  From 
each  of  these,  branches  extend  in  different  directions.  Be- 
sides these  there  are  others  which  are  large  and  high, 
such  as  the  Blue  Mountains  south  of  Walla  Walla — 
the  Salmon  river  mountains  between  Salmon  and  the 
Cooscootske  rivers ; and  also  in  the  regions  of  Okan- 
agan and  Colvile. 

Between  these  mountains  are  wide-spread  valleys  and 
plains.  The  largest  and  most  fertile  valley  is  included  be- 
tween Deer  island  on  the  west,  to  within  twelve  miles  of 
the  Cascades,  and  is  about  fifty-five  miles  wide,  and  extend- 
ing north  and  south  to  a greater  extent  than  I had  the  means 
of  definitely  ascertaining ; probably  from  Pugets  sound  on 
the  north,  to  the  Umbiqua  river  on  the  south.  The  Willa- 
mette river  and  a section  of  the  Columbia  are  included  in 
this  valley.  The  valley  south  of  the  Walla  Walla,  called 
the  Grand  Round,  is  said  to  excel  in  fertility.  To  these 
may  be  added  Pierre’s  Hole  and  adjacent  country  ; also 
Racine  Amere,  east  of  the  Salmon  river  mountains.  On 
Mill  river,  which  unites  with  the  Columbia  at  Colvile,  from 
the  south,  through  a valley  of  more  than  fifty  miles,  there 
are  rich  bottom  lands.  While  these  are  open  and  ready 
for  cultivation,  the  hills  on  both  sides  of  the  valley  are  cov- 
ered with  woods.  Other  fertile  sections  of  considerable 
magnitude  are  dispersed  over  different  parts  of  the  country. 
To  these  may  be  subjoined  extensive  plains,  most  of  which 
are  prairies  well  covered  with  grass.  The  whole  region 
of  country  west  of  Salmon  river  mountains,  the  Spokein 
woods,  Okanagan,  and  quite  to  the  range  of  mountains 
which  cross  the  Columbia  at  the  Falls,  is  a vast  prairie 


224 


FORESTS RIVERS.  - 


covered  with  grass,  and  the  soil  is  generally  good.  Another 
large  plain,  which  is  said  to  be  very  barren,  lies  off  to  the 
south-west  of  Lewis’  or  Snake  river,  including  the  Sho- 
shones’ country ; and  travelers  who  have  passed  through 
have  pronounced  the  interior  of  America  a great  barren 
desert ; but  this  is  drawing  a conclusion  far  too  broad 
from  premises  so  limited.  So  far  as  I have  had  opportunity 
for  observation,  I should  feel  warranted  in  saying,  that 
while  some  parts  of  Oregon  are  barren,  large  portions  are 
well  adapted  to  grazing  ; and  others,  though  less  extensive, 
to  both  tillage  and  grazing. 

Upon  the  subject  of  forests,  I would  only  observe,  that  a 
large  proportion  of  the  country  west  of  the  mountains  is 
destitute,  while  some  parts  are  well  supplied.  I have  al- 
ready mentioned  the  lower  country,  from  below  the  Falls 
of  the  Columbia  to  the  ocean,  as  being  well  wooded,  and 
densely  in  many  parts,  especially  near  the  ocean.  The 
mountains  north  of  the  Salmon  river,  and  the  country  about 
the  Spokein  river,  and  so  on  still  farther  north,  are  well 
furnished  with  forests,  and  in  some  other  sections  there  are 
partial  supplies. 

The  country  in  general  is  well  watered,  being  intersected 
with  lakes,  and  many  large  rivers  and  tributary  streams. 
This  might  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  there  are  so  many 
mountains,  upon  the  sides  and  at  the  bases  of  which  are  mul- 
titudes of  the  finest  springs.  No  country  furnishes  water 
more  pure  and  of  such  crystal  clearness.  As  the  spring 
and  summer  heat  commences,  the  snows  of  the  mountains 
melt,  and  begin  to  swell  the  rivers  in  the  beginning  of  May, 
and  the  freshet  continues  to  increase  until  June,  when  it  is 
the  greatest,  and  overflows  large  sections  of  the  low  lands 
of  the  valleys,  which  have  the  appearance  of  inland  seas. 


RIVERS. 


225 


While  the  rivers  of  this  country  are  numerous,  and  several 
of  them  are  large,  yet  inland  navigation  will  be  attended 
with  difficulties,  not  only  from  the  many  falls  and  rapids, 
but  from  the  labor  and  expense  necessary  to  construct  ca- 
nals through  the  immensely  hard  basaltic  rock  formation. 
The  Columbia  has  three  large  falls  in  the  distance  of  seven 
hundred  miles  ; the  Cascades,  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
from  the  ocean  at  the  head  of  tide  water  ; the  Falls  of  the 
Columbia,  forty  miles  above  the  Cascades  ; and  the  Kettle 
Falls,  five  hundred  and  thirty  miles  above  the  Falls  of  the 
Columbia.  There  are  many  rapids,  but  the  Nine-mile  Ra- 
pids, thirty  miles  above  Walla  Walla,  are  the  most  embar- 
rassing. The  other  rivers  are  still  more  obstructed  with 
falls  and  rapids,  except  the  Willamette,  which  has  only 
one  fall  at  the  head  of  its  tide  water,  thirty  miles  above 
its  junction  with  the  Columbia.  The  obstruction  to  a 
canal  around  this,  is  far  less  than  around  the  above 
named  falls  ; and  when  constructed,  the  navigation  may 
be  extended  fifty  miles  farther  into  the  country.  While 
such  is  the  condition  of  the  country  in  respect  to  its  inter- 
nal navigation  and  commerce,  the  ingenuity  of  man  in  our 
day,  has  provided  something  which  can  be  most  advanta- 
geously applied  as  a remedy.  I mean  rail-roads.  In 
making  observations,  with  reference  to  this  very  subject, 
I was  interested  to  see  the  wisdom  and  benevolence  of 
the  Creator,  in  providing  passes  through  those  stupen- 
dous ranges  of  mountains,  running  generally  from  north 
to  south,  and  I thought  how  easily  the  whole  territory 
might  be  traversed  in  this  way ; and  the  large  pentag- 
onal basaltic  columns  are  ready  at  hand  to  facilitate 
the  work.  No  country  in  the  world  furnishes  better 

opportunities  for  water  power  to  be  applied  to  manufac- 

20* 


226 


THE  SEASONS. 


turing  purposes  ; every  river  and  stream  having  falls,  cas- 
cades and  rapids. 

The  seasons.  These  are  divided  into  two,  the  rainy  in 
the  winter,  commencing  in  November  and  terminating  in 
May ; the  dry  in  the  summer,  which  is  entirely  destitute  of 
rain,  and  during  which  time  the  atmosphere  is  remarkably 
serene ; the  daily  prairie  winds  relieve  the  heat  of  the  sun, 
and  the  season  is  most  delightful.  The  climate  is  far  more 
temperate  and  warm  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  than 
east  in  the  same  latitude,  there  being  at  least  ten  degrees 
difference  of  latitude,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  subjoined  me- 
teorological table.  There  were  only  three  days  in  the 
whole  winter  of  my  residence  in  the  country,  that  the  ther- 
mometer sunk  as  low  as  22°  Fahrenheit,  at  Fort  Vancou- 
ver ; and  there  were  only  two  mornings  in  the  whole  month 
of  March  when  white  frost  was  seen.  Snow  does  not  fall 
deep  excepting  upon  the  mountains ; in  the  valleys  it  rarely 
continues  more  than  a few  days,  or  at  the  farthest  only  a 
few  weeks  ; and  by  the  latter  part  of  February  or  the  first 
of  March,  ploughing  and  sowing  is  commenced.  And  not 
only  is  the  climate  uncommonly  delightful,  but  it  is  also 
healthy,  and  there  are  scarcely  any  prevailing  diseases, 
except  the  fever  and  ague  in  the  lower  country,  which,  as 
has  been  stated,  commenced  in  1829  ; and  the  ophthalmy, - 
which  is  very  general  among  the  Indians  of  the  plains. 
It  is  worthy  of  notice,  that  thunder  and  lightning  are 
seldom  witnessed  west  of  the  mountains,  but  in  the  val- 
ley of  the  Mississippi,  they  are  very  frequent  and  unu- 
sually heavy. 

The  entire  destitution  of  rain,  showers  and  dew,  during 
summer,  does  not  exclude  fertility ; nor  is  it  peculiar  to 
this  country,  for  the  same  is  true  of  the  whole  Pacific  coast 


THE  SEASONS. 


227 


west  of  the  Andes,  and  also  of  the  Sandwich  and  Society 
Islands — yet  by  various  methods  of  irrigation  the  soil  is 
rendered  productive.  In  the  country  which  I am  descri- 
bing, the  winter  being  so  mild,  the  grain  sown  in  the  fall 
and  spring  advances  beyond  injury  before  the  drouth  be- 
comes severe,  and  the  grass  attains  its  growth  and  dries  into 
hay  upon  the  ground ; and  there  being  no  moisture  to  de- 
compose it,  retains  its  nutritive  properties. 


228 


INDIANS  OF  THE  PLAINS, 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Character  and  condition  of  the  Indians — Indians  of  the  plains — their 
persons — dress — wealth — habits — physical  character— manufactures 
— their  religion — wars — vices — moral  disposition— superstitions — 
medicine  men. 

As  it  was  the  principal  object  of  my  tour  to  ascertain  the 
character  and  condition  of  the  Indians  beyond  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  their  numbers,  and  the  prospects  of  establishing 
the  gospel  among  them,  it  will  not  only  be  proper  but  im- 
portant to  give  a full  and  connected  description  of  them  in 
these  respects.  In  doing  this,  while  I have  availed  myself 
of  information  collected  from  men  of  intelligence  and  in- 
tegrity, I have  confined  my  statements  to  those  things  which 
have  been  corroborated  by,  or  came  under  my  own  obser- 
vations • feeling  it  a duty  to  avoid  the  many  fabulous  ac- 
counts which  have  been  given  of  Indian  character  and  cus- 
toms. Romance  may  please  and  excite  admiration,  fiction 
may  charm,  but  only  truth  can  instruct. 

I will  first  describe  the  Indians  of  the  plains.  These, 
live  in  the  upper  country  from  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia  to 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  are  called  the  Indians  of  the 
plains,  because  a large  proportion  of  their  country  is  prairie 
land.  The  principal  tribes  are  the  Nez  Perees,  Cay  uses, 
Walla  Wallas,  Bonax,  Shoshones,  Spokeins,  Flatheads, 
Cceur  d’Alene,  Ponderas,  Cootanies,  Kettlefalls,  Okanagans, 
and  Carriers.  These  do  not  include  probably  more  than 
one  half  of  those  east  of  the  Falls,  but  of  others  I have  ob- 


COSTUME. 


229 


tained  but  little  definite  knowledge.  They  all  resemble 
each  other  in  general  characteristics.  In  their  persons  the 
men  are  tall,  the  women  are  of  common  stature,  and  both 
are  well  formed.  While  there  is  a strong  natural  as  well 
as  moral  resemblance  among  all  Indians,  the  complexion  of 
these  is  a little  fairer  than  other  Indians.  Their  hair  and 
eyes  are  black,  their  cheek  bones  high,  and  very  frequent- 
ly they  have  aquiline  noses.  Their  hands,  feet,  and  ankles, 
are  small  and  well  formed ; and  their  movements  are  easy, 
if  not  graceful.  They  wear  their  hair  long,  part  it  upon 
their  forehead,  and  let  it  hang  in  tresses  on  each  side,  or 
down  behind. 

There  is  a great  resemblance  in  the  dress  of  different  tribes, 
which  generally  consist  of  a shirt,  worn  over  long,  close 
leggins,  with  moccasons  for  the  feet.  These  are  of  dressed 
leather  made  of  the  skins  of  deer,  antelope,  mountain  goat 
and  sheep ; and  over  these  they  wear  a blanket  or  buffalo 
robe.  The  borders  of  their  garments  are  ornamented  with 
long  fringes.  They  are  fond  of  ornaments,  and  their  heads 
and  garments  are  decorated  with  feathers,  beads,  buttons, 
and  porcupine  quills ; these  last  are  colored  red,  yellow, 
blue,  and  black,  and  worked  with  great  skill  and  variety  of 
design.  They  appear  to  have  less  of  the  propensity  to  adorn 
themselves  with  painting,  than  the  Indians  east  of  the  moun- 
tains ; but  not  unfrequently  vermilion,  mixed  with  red 
clay,  is  used  not  only  upon  their  faces,  but  upon  their  hair. 
The  dress  of  the  women  does  not  vary  much  from  that  of 
the  men,  excepting,  that  instead  of  the  shirt,  they  have 
what  we  may  call  a frock  coming  down  to  the  ankles. 
Many  of  them  wear  a large  cape  made  of  dressed  skins, 
often  highly  ornamented  with  large  oblong  beads  of  blue, 
red,  purple,  and  white,  arranged  in  curved  lines  covering 


230 


THEIR  WEALTH. 


the  whole.  Some  of  the  daughters  of  the  chiefs,  when 
clothed  in  their  clean,  white  dresses  of  antelope  skins,  with 
their  fully  ornamented  capes  coming  down  to  the  waist,  and 
mounted  upon  spirited  steeds,  going  at  full  speed,  their  or- 
naments glittering  in  the  sun-beams,  make  an  appearance 
that  would  not  lose  in  comparison  with  equestrian  ladies 
of  the  east. 

Their  horses  are  not  less  finely  caparisoned  with  blue  and 
scarlet  trimmings  about  their  heads,  breasts,  and  loins,  hung 
with  little  brass  bells. 

While  a want  of  cleanliness  is  a characteristic  of  all  hea- 
then, the  Indians  of  the  plains  are  less  reprehensible  than 
others,  and  far  more  neat  than  those  of  the  lower  country 
towards  the  Pacific.  It  is  not  to  be  understood  that  there 
are  not  those  who  are  poor,  suffering  from  the  want  of  food 
and  clothing. 

Their  wealth  consists  in  their  horses,  and  their  conse- 
quence depends  in  a great  degree  upon  the  number  they 
possess,  some  owning  several  hundreds  ; and  that  family 
is  poor  whose  numbers  are  not  sufficient  for  every  man, 
woman  and  child  to  be  mounted,  when  they  are  traveling 
from  place  to  place  ; and  also  to  carry  all  their  effects.  In 
these  respects  they  are  far  better  supplied  than  any  tribes 
I saw  east  of  the  mountains.  While  their  horses  are  their - 
wealth,  they  derive  but  little  from  them  for  the  support  of 
themselves  and  families ; for  they  do  not  employ  them  to 
cultivate  the  earth  ; and  the  market  for  them  is  so  low,  that 
they  command  but  a small  price.  A good  horse  will  not  sell 
for  more  than  enough  to  purchase  a blanket,  or  a few  small 
articles  of  merchandize.  For  subsistence,  they  necessarily 
depend  upon  hunting  and  fishing,  and  gathering  roots  and 
berries.  Their  mode  of  cooking  is  plain  and  simple.  Most 


HABITS. 


231 


of  their  food  is  roasted,  and  they  excel  in  roasting  fish.  The 
process  is  to  build  a small  fire  in  the  centre  of  their  lodge, 
to  fix  the  fish  upon  a stick  two  or  three  feet  long,  and  place 
one  end  in  the  ground  so  as  to  bring  the  fish  partly  over  the 
fire,  and  then  by  a slow  process  it  is  most  thoroughly  roast- 
ed without  scorching,  or  scarcely  changing  the  color.  The 
principal  art  consists  in  taking  time,  and  our  best  cooks 
might  improve  by  following  their  mode. 

The  habits  of  Indians  are  said  to  be  indolent.  As  a gen- 
eral remark  it  may  be  true,  but  I saw  but  very  little  to  con- 
firm its  truth  among  the  Indians  of  the  plains  ; for  I rarely 
saw  any  of  these  Indians  not  engaged  in  some  object  of 
pursuit;  not  the  most  productive  perhaps,  but  such  as  enlist- 
ed their  attention.  While  I believe  that  the  resemblance, 
both  physical  and  moral,  of  all  the  different  nations  and 
tribes  of  Indians,  spread  over  large  portions  of  the  conti- 
nent of  America,  is  greater  than  is  seen  in  any  people  of 
any  other  country  of  equal  extent,  yet  if  it  is  true,  that  as 
a general  fact,  “they  are  morose  and  gloomy  in  their  coun- 
tenances ; sullen,  or  bacchanalian  in  their  dispositions ; that 
they  are  rarely  so  joyful  as  to  laugh  unless  excited  by  ar- 
dent spirits ; that  they  are  taciturn  and  never  indulge  in 
mirth  ; that  they  are  obtuse  in  sympathy,  and  destitute  of 
social  affections ; that  in  proud  disdain  they  turn  away 
from  whatever  would  excite  curiosity ; that  no  common  mo- 
tives or  endearments  excite  them  to  action;75  if  these  things 
are  true,  then  the  Indians  in  Oregon  are  an  exception  to 
the  general  fact.  In  all  the  above  named  particulars,  I saw 
no  special  difference  between  them  and  other  nations.  As 
a part  of  the  human  family,  they  have  the  same  natural  pro- 
pensities and  the  same  social  affections.  They  are  cheer- 
ful and  often  gay,  sociable,  kind  and  affectionate  ; and  anx- 


232 


MANUFACTURES. 


ious  to  receive  instruction  in  whatever  may  conduce  to  their 
happiness  here  or  hereafter.  It  is  worse  than  idle  to  speak 
of  “ physical  insensibility  inwrought  into  the  animal  nature 
of  the  Indians,  so  that  their  bodies  approximate  to  the  in- 
sensibility of  horses’  hoofs.”  The  influence  of  this  kind 
of  remark  is  to  produce,  in  the  bosoms  of  all  who  read 
them,  the  same  insensibility  that  is  charged  upon  the  na- 
tive character  of  the  Indians.  To  represent  their  charac- 
ters and  their  restoration  to  the  common  feelings  of  hu- 
manity so  hopeless,  is  to  steel  the  heart  of  even  Christian- 
ity itself,  if  it  were  possible,  against  all  sympathy,  and  to 
paralize  all  exertions  and  effort  to  save  them  from  the  two- 
fold destruction  to  which  they  doom  them,  temporal  and 
eternal.  Is  this  the  reason  that  Christians  are  sitting  in 
such  supineness  over  their  condition,  and  that  the  heart- 
thrilling  appeals  for  teachers  to  enlighten  them  are  disre- 
garded ? Is  this  the  reason,  that  while  the  philanthropy  of 
the  United  States’  citizens  towards  them  is  so  widely  bla- 
zoned, those  who  are  sent  to  teach  them  the  arts  of  civilized 
life,  are  sitting  quiet  on  the  borders  in  govermental  pay, 
while  the  Indians  are  roaming  still  over  the  prairies  in 
search  of  uncertain  and  precarious  game  ? I forbear  to 
tell  the  whole  story. 

They  have  but  few  manufactures,  and  those  are  the  most  . 
plain  and  simple,  not  extending  much  beyond  dressing  the 
skins  of  animals,  and  making  them  into  clothing ; making 
bows  and  arrows  and  some  few  articles  of  furniture.  In 
dressing  skins  they  never  make  any  use  of  bark  or  tannin. 
Their  process  is  to  remove  the  hair  and  flesh  from  the  skins 
by  scraping  them  with  a hard  stone  or  wood,  or  when  it 
can  be  obtained,  a piece  of  iron  hoop,  and  then  besmearing 
them  with  the  brains  of  some  animal,  they  smoke  them 


MANUFACTURES. 


233 


thoroughly  and  rub  them  until  they  are  soft ; and  after  this 
bleach  them  with  pure  white  clay.  Their  mode  of  smoking 
them  is  to  excavate  a small  place  in  the  ground,  about  a 
foot  deep,  and  over  this  to  construct  a fixture  in  the  form  of 
a lodge,  a few  feet  wide  at  the  base  and  brought  to  a point 
at  the  top.  Then  they  build  a small  fire  in  the  centre,  and 
place  the  skins  around  upon  the  fratne  work,  so  as  to  make 
the  enclosure  almost  smoke  tight.  The  process  occupies 
about  one  day.  Their  mode  of  dressing  buffalo  robes  is 
different.  They  stretch  the  skin  upon  the  ground,  flesh 
side  up,  fastening  it  down  with  pins  around  the  border, 
and  then  with  an  instrument  formed  somewhat  like  a coop- 
er’s adz,  made  of  stone,  or  wood  overlaid  with  a piece  of 
iron,  brought  to  a blunt  edge  like  the  currier’s  knife,  they 
clear  from  it  all  remaining  flesh,  and  let  it  thoroughly  dry. 
After  this,  with  the  same  instrument,  they  work  upon  it  with 
a pounding,  hewing  stroke,  until  they  have  brought  it  to  a 
suitable  thickness  and  rendered  it  soft  and  white,  as  our 
buffalo  robes  are  when  brought  into  market.  It  is  a work 
of  great  labor,  and  is  performed  by  the  women.  We  little 
think  how  much  toil  it  costs  a woman  to  prepare  one  of 
these  robes,  and  then  how  little  is  paid  for  it  by  the  pur- 
chaser ; a pound  of  tobacco  or  a bunch  of  beads,  is  as  much 
as  the  Indian  generally  receives. 

Their  bows  are  made  of  the  most  elastic  wood,  strength- 
ened with  the  tendons  of  animals  glued  upon  the  back  side, 
and  the  string  is  made  of  the  same  substance.  Their  ar- 
rows are  made  of  heavy  wood,  with  one  end  tipped  with  a 
sharp  stone  or  pointed  iron,  and  the  other  pinnated  with  a 
feather.  While  the  first  is  to  pierce,  the  latter  is  to  govern 
the  direction.  Their  bows  and  arrows  perform  astonishing 

execution,  and  they  manage  them  with  great  dexterity. 

21 


234 


MANUFACTURES. 


Most  of  the  cooking  utensils,  which  they  now  use,  are 
obtained  from  traders,  and  do  not  often  extend  beyond  a 
brass  kettle,  tin  pail,  and  a very  few  knives.  They  have 
bowls  which  they  manufacture  very  ingeniously  from  the 
horns  of  buffalo  ; and  sometimes,  those  that  are  larger  and 
more  solid,  from  the  horns  of  the  big  horn  mountain  sheep. 
They  have  spoons  of  very  good  structure  made  of  buffalo 
horns  ; also  various  kinds  of  baskets  of  rude  workmanship. 
Their  saddles  are  rude,  somewhat  resembling  the  Spanish 
saddle,  having  a high  knob  forward,  and  rising  high  on  the 
back  part ; generally  sitting  uneasily  upon  the  horse’s 
back.  Their  bridles  consist  of  a rope  well  made  of  the 
hair,  or  shag  of  the  buffalo,  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  fastened 
in  the  centre  to  the  under  jaw  of  the  horse,  and  the  ends 
are  brought  over  the  neck  for  reins.  The  lasso,  which  is 
used  for  catching  horses  and  some  kinds  of  wild  animals, 
is  a long  rope  with  a large  noose  at  one  end,  and  the  other 
end  is  held  firmly  in  the  hand ; the  whole  is  coiled,  and 
when  the  distance  permits  it  to  be  thrown,  it  is  usually  so 
dexterously  done,  as  to  bring  the  noose  over  the  animal’s 
head.  When  mounted,  they  often  have  a long  leather  thong, 
or  a rope,  fastened  upon  the  horse’s  neck,  which  trails  upon 
the  ground,  and  is  frequently  suffered  to  remain  when  the 
horse  is  turned  loose,  for  the  convenience  of  more  easily 
catching  him  again. 

Their  canoes,  before  they  obtained  iron  hatchets  of  the 
traders,  were,  with  great  labor  and  patience,  made  with 
hatchets  of  stone  ; and  even  now,  cost  them  no  small  effort. 
A canoe  of  good  construction  is  valued  as  high  as  one  or 
two  good  horses.  Their  fishing  nets  are  another  article 
which  is  well  constructed,  formed  of  wild  flax  ; and  in 
every  particular  like  our  scoop  nets* 


RELIGION BELIEF. 


235 


As  regards  the  religion  of  the  Indians,  I have  already 
stated  that  they  believe  in  one  God,  in  the  immortality  of 
the  soul,  and  in  future  rewards  and  punishments.  But 
while  these  are  the  prominent  points  of  their  belief,  definite 
ideas  of  a religious  nature  appear  to  be  extremely  limited, 
both  in  number  and  in  comprehensiveness.  As  much  as 
this,  however,  appears  to  be  true.  They  believe  in  one 
Great  Spirit,  who  has  created  all  things,  governs  all  impor- 
tant events,  who  is  the  author  of  all  good,  and  the  only  ob- 
ject of  religious  homage.  They  believe  he  may  be  dis- 
pleased with  them  for  their  bad  conduct,  and  in  his  dis- 
pleasure bring  calamities  upon  them.  They  also  believe  in 
an  evil  spirit,  whom  they  call  cinim  keneki  meohot  cinmo - 
cimo  ; that  is,  the  black  chief  below,  who  is  the  author  of 
all  the  evils  which  befall  them,  undeserved  as  a punish- 
ment from  the  Great  Spirit  above.  They  believe  that  the 
soul  enters  the  future  world  with  a similar  form,  and  in 
circumstances  like  those  under  which  it  existed  in  this  life. 
They  believe  that  in  a future  state,  the  happiness  of  the 
good  consists  in  an  abundance  and  enjoyment  of  those 
things  which  they  value  here,  that  their  present  sources  of 
happiness  will  be  carried  to  perfection ; and  that  the  pun- 
ishment of  the  bad  will  consist  in  entire  exclusion  from 
every  source  of  happiness,  and  in  finding  all  causes  of  mis- 
ery here,  greatly  multiplied  hereafter.  Thus  their  ideas 
of  future  happiness  and  misery  are  found  to  vary  according 
to  their  different  situations  and  employments  in  life.  It  is 
difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  ascertain  any  thing  of  their 
religious  belief  beyond  these  general  notions.  The  number 
of  words  and  terms  in  their  language  expressive  of  abstract 
and  spiritual  ideas,  is  very  small,  so  that  those  who  wish  to 
instruct  them  in  these  subjects,  are  compelled  to  do  it  by 


23  6 


WAR. 


means  of  illustrations  and  circumlocutions,  and  the  intro- 
duction of  words  from  foreign  languages.  Besides,  con- 
scious of  their  ignorance,  they  are,  for  the  most  part,  un- 
willing to  expose  it,  by  revealing  the  little  knowledge  which 
they  possess.  Indeed,  wherever  a feeling  of  ignorance  upon 
any  subject  prevails,  we  find  that  all  endeavors  to  elicit  the 
true  amount  of  knowledge,  are  repelled  or  evaded.  Even 
men  of  talents,  with  us,  who  converse  fluently  upon  most 
subjects,  are  often  silent  when  religious  topics  are  intro- 
duced. 

I am  far  from  believing  the  many  long  and  strange  tra- 
ditions, with  which  we  are  often  entertained.  It  is  more 
than  probable,  that  they  are  in  most  instances  the  gratui- 
tous offerings  of  designing  and  artful  traders  and  hunters  to 
that  curiosity,  which  is  ever  awake  and  attentive  to  sub- 
jects of  this  description.  The  Indians  themselves  would 
often  be  as  much  surprised  at  the  rehearsal  of  these  tradi- 
tions, as  those  are  for  whose  amusement  they  are  fabricated. 
My  own  opinion  is  confirmed  by  that  of  several  gentlemen 
of  integrity  and  veracity,  who  stand  at  the  head  of  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company,  w7ho  have  long  been  resident  in  the  In- 
dian country,  and  have  become  extensively  acquainted  with 
their  languages. 

The  Indians  west  of  the  great  chain  of  mountains,  have  . 
no  wars  among  themselves,  and  appear  to  be  averse  to 
them,  and  do  not  enter  into  battle  except  in  self-defense, 
and  then  only  in  the  last  extremity.  Their  only  wars  are 
with  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  whose  country  is  along  the  east 
border  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  who  are  constantly 
roving  about  in  war  parties,  on  both  sides,  in  quest  of  plun- 
der. When  the  Indians  on  the  west  meet  with  any  of  these 
parties,  they  avoid  an  encounter  if  possible,  but  if  compelled 


WAR VICES. 


237 


to  fight,  they  show  a firm,  undaunted,  unconquerable  spirit, 
and  rush  upon  their  enemies  with  the  greatest  impetuosity ; 
and  it  is  said  that  one  Nez  Perce,  or  Flathead  warrior,  is  a 
match  for  three  Blaekfeet.  The  only  advantage  which  the 
latter  have  over  the  former  consists  in  their  numbers,  there 
being  more  than  twenty  thousand  of  the  Blaekfeet  Indians. 
When  an  enemy  is  discovered,  every  horse  is  driven  into 
camp,  and  the  women  take  charge  of  them,  while  every 
man  seizes  his  weapons  of  war,  whatever  they  may  be, 
mounts  his  horse,  and  waits  firm  and  undismayed  to  see  if 
hostilities  must  ensue.  If  a battle  cannot  be  avoided,  they 
rush  forward  to  meet  their  foes,  throwing  themselves  flat 
upon  their  horses  as  they  draw  near,  and  fire,  and  wheel, 
and  reload,  and  again  rush  full  speed  to  the  second  encoun- 
ter. This  is  continued  until  victory  is  decided,  which  is  as 
often  by  the  failure  of  ammunition,  as  by  the  loss  of  men. 
Very  frequently,  when  the  Blaekfeet  see  white  men  with 
the  Nez  Perces  or  Flatheads,  they  decline  a battle,  though 
far  superior  in  numbers,  knowing  that  the  white  men  can 
furnish  a large  supply  of  ammunition ; and  in  such  cases 
they  will  raise  a white  flag,  and  come  in  to  smoke  the  pipe 
of  peace.  The  Nez  Perce  or  Flathead  chief,  on  such  an 
occasion,  will  say  “ we  accept  your  offer  to  smoke  the  pipe 
of  peace,  but  it  is  not  in  ignorance  that  your  heart  is  war, 
and  your  hand  blood,  but  we  love  peace.  You  give  us  the 
pipe,  but  blood  always  follows.55 

But  these  Indians  are  not  without  their  vices.  Gambling 
is  one  of  the  most  prominent,  and  is  a ruling  passion  which 
they  will  gratify  to  the  last  extremity.  It  is  much  prac- 
ticed in  running  horses,  and  foot  races,  by  men,  women  and 
children,  and  they  have  games  of  chance  played  with  sticks 

or  bones.  When  I told  the  Nez  Perces  that  gambling  is 

21* 


233 


GOOD  MORALS. 


wrong,  and  a violation  of  the  tenth  commandment ; for  it 
is  coveting  the  property  of  another,  and  taking  it  without 
an  equivalent,  as  much  as  stealing ; they  said  they  did  not 
know  it  before,  but  now  they  know  God  forbids  it  they  will 
do  so  no  more.  Theft  is  generally  supposed  to  be  inbred  in 
the  Indians,  but  I was  pleased  to  discover  that  the  tribes  of 
the  plains  held  it  in  abhorrence,  and  would  punish  it  severe- 
ly should  it  occur.  The  Shoshones  are  said  to  be  addicted 
to  this  habit  in  some  degree.  Drunkenness  is  a stranger  vice 
among  these  nations,  their  remove  from  the  sources  of  this 
evil  being  their  security.  It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  their 
virtue,  any  more  than  that  of  other  tribes,  would  be  invul- 
nerable if  exposed  to  temptation,  for  this  habit,  like  their 
proverbial  love  for  finery  and  ornament,  is  acquired  by 
the  facilities  for  indulgence  which  are  thrown  in  their  way. 
The  trader  goes  far  into  the  interior  with  his  packs  of 
beads,  buttons,  paints,  &c.,  to  exchange  for  furs,  and  teach- 
es this  ignorant  people  to  set  the  same  value  on  his  articles, 
that  theirs  are  intrinsically  worth — but  who  supposes  that 
they  would  not  know  the  comparative  worth  of  more  useful 
goods,  if  they  were  offered  them  ?* 

The  moral  disposition  of  these  Indians  is  very  commend- 
able, certainly  as  much  as  that  of  any  people  that  can  be 
named.  They  are  kind  to  strangers,  and  remarkably  so  to 
each  other.  While  among  them  I saw  no  contentions,  and 
heard  no  angry  words  from  one  to  another.  They  manifest 
an  uncommon  desire  to  be  instructed  that  they  may  obey 
and  fulfil  all  moral  obligations.  Harmony  and  peace  pre- 
vail in  all  their  domestic  concerns.  But  when  they  have 


* An  attempt  was  made  not  long  since,  by  an  United  States  citizen, 
to  construct  a distillery  on  the  Willamette  river,  but  for  want  of  suit- 
able materials  he  failed  in  his  object. 


SUPERSTITIONS. 


239 


any  difficult  subject,  which  they  know  not  how  to  dispose  of, 
they  go  to  their  chiefs,  and  if  it  involves  any  important  prin- 
ciple, the  chiefs  bring  the  case  to  any  white  man,  who  may 
be  among  them,  to  obtain  his  opinion,  which  is  generally  fol- 
lowed. They  are  scrupulously  honest  in  all  their  dealings, 
and  lying  is  scarcely  known.  They  say  they  fear  to  sin 
against  the  Great  Spirit,  and  therefore,  have  but  one  heart, 
and  their  tongue  is  straight  and  not  forked.  And  so  cor- 
rectly does  the  law  written  upon  their  hearts  accord  with 
the  written  law  of  God,  that  every  infraction  of  the  seventh 
command  of  the  decalogue  is  punished  with  severity. 

I have  witnessed  but  few  things  among  them  indicative  of 
superstition.  The  practice  of  the  Shoshones  of  cutting  them- 
selves for  the  dead,  I have  already  mentioned.  The  Carri- 
ers burn  their  dead.  When  a person  dies,  all  the  relations 
must  be  assembled,  which  often  occupies  many  days  ; and 
if  a husband  is  deceased,  the  wife  must  lay  her  head  upon 
the  bosom  of  her  husband  every  night,  to  show  her  affection 
for  him  ; and  when  the  funeral  pile  is  constructed,  the  corpse 
laid  upon  it,  and  the  fire  enkindled,  during  the  burning  of 
the  body,  she  must  frequently  put  her  hands  through  the 
flame  and  lay  them  upon  his  bosom,  to  show  her  continued 
affection.  Their  first  chief  lost  his  wife.  He  was  asked  if 
he  would  show  the  affection  for  her,  which  was  required  of 
others.  He  thought  on  account  of  his  chieftainship  he  might 
be  excused.  The  people  were  urgent,  and  he  consented, 
but  so  great  was  the  pain  which  he  endured,  that  he  was 
willing  the  practice  should  be  ameliorated,  and  it  is  hoped 
it  will  soon  be  abolished. 

They  have  no  unlucky  days,  but  as  a substitute  for  the 
white  man’s  Friday,  they  have  a portentous  howling  of  a 
large  wolf,  which  they  call  the  medicine  wolf.  M they  hear 


240 


MEDICINE  MEN. 


this  when  traveling,  sadness  is  at  once  visible  in  their 
countenances,  for  it  is  considered  as  foreboding  some  ca- 
lamity near. 

Among  their  superstitions  may  be  classed  their  mode  of 
curing  diseases.  They  have  what  are  called  medicine*  men, 
who  make  no  pretensions  to  any  knowledge  of  diseases  or 
skill  in  medicine  ; but  they  have  a bag  in  which  is  deposited 
various  relics.  The  patient  is  stretched  upon  the  ground  ; 
a number  of  persons  encircle  him  and  sing  the  medicine 
song.  The  medicine  man  enters  the  circle  and  commences 
his  magical  incantations  by  holding  the  medicine  bag  over 
him,  which  is  to  operate  as  a charm ; he  uses  many  ges- 
tures, grimaces,  and  inarticulate  sounds ; pats  or  kneads 
the  patient  with  his  hands,  beginning  very  softly,  and  grad- 
ually increasing  to  a considerable  degree  of  severity  ; blows 
into  his  ears,  and  practices  other  like  ceremonies.  By  this 
process  the  patient  is  often  much  fatigued,  and  thrown  into  a 
free  perspiration,  and  his  imagination  is  much  excited.  When 
the  friction  has  been  sufficiently  employed,  the  imagination 
well  wrought  upon,  and  the  medicine  bag  has  invisibly  im- 
parted its  virtues,  the  medicine  man  presents  some  trifling 
article,  such  as  a small  bone,  a stick,  or  pebble,  and  says 
he  has  taken  it  from  the  body  of  the  patient,  and  that  it  was 
the  cause  of  the  disease ; or  he  gives  a heavy  puff  upward, 
and  says  the  disease  has  come  out  of  the  patient  and  gone 
upward,  and  then  asks  him  if  he  does  not  feel  better.  The 
patient  says  yes  ; for  he  certainly  feels  better  in  being  reliev- 
ed from  the  process.  And  often  the  relief  is  permanent ; for 
the  friction  may  have  been  beneficial,  and  the  imagination 
often  performs  wonders.  The  medicine  man  stands  respon- 

* The  word  medicine , as  used  by  Indians,  signifies  any  thing  mys- 
terious. 


STEAM  BATH. 


241 


sible  for  the  life  of  his  patient,  and  if  the  patient  dies,  not 
unfrequently  his  own  life  is  taken  by  some  of  the  relatives 
of  the  deceased.  He  makes  a heavy  charge  for  his  servi- 
ces, often  a horse,  and  why  should  he  not  ? for  who  in  such 
cases  would  endanger  his  life  without  being  well  paid  ? In 
some  parts  of  the  country,  but  more  especially  in  the  lower 
country,  the  lives  of  medicine  men  are  short,  and  it  would 
be  supposed  this  would  deter  others  from  entering  into  the  pro- 
fession. But  the  love  of  fame  and  wealth  is  powerful  among 
heathen  as  well  as  among  civilized  communities.  Undoubt- 
edly the  medicine  men,  when  they  begin  their  profession, 
know  that  they  are  practicing  deception,  but  by  habitual 
deceit,  by  the  confidence  others  place  in  their  skill,  and  by 
the  effects  produced  through  the  medium  of  the  imagination, 
they  finally  believe  in  the  efficacy  of  their  own  enchantments, 
and  that  they  are  consequential  men. 

I have  seen  no  “ root  doctors  55  in  any  tribe  east  or  west 
of  the  mountains.  The  Indians,  so  far  as  I have  had  an 
opportunity  of  ascertaining,  have  but  few  diseases,  and  for 
the  cure  of  these,  they  use  but  little  medicine  * nor  do  they 
profess  to  have  any  knowledge  of  remedies  beyond  a few 
specifics. 

The  warm  bath  is  used  both  by  sick  and  healthy  persons 
in  the  following  manner.  They  construct  a steam  bath  in 
the  form  of  an  oblong  oven,  two  or  three  feet  high,  about 
six  feet  long,  made  of  willow  branches,  each  end  inserted 
into  the  ground,  forming  an  arch,  which  is  covered  with 
grass  and  mud,  or  more  generally  with  skins.  In  this  they 
place  a number  of  hot  stones,  upon  which  they  pour  water. 
The  person  who  is  to  go  through  the  process,  enters  and  is 
enclosed  nearly  air  tight,  and  remains  until  a very  profuse 
perspiration  is  produced,  and  often  until  nearly  suffocated. 


242 


MUSIC. 


He  then  comes  out  and  plunges  at  once  into  cold  water, 
and  no  regard  is  paid  to  the  season  of  the  year,  whether 
summer  or  winter. 

They  are  wholly  destitute  of  the  means  of  obtaining  an 
education,  and  therefore  are  ignorant  of  all  the  sciences. 
In  things  with  which  they  are  conversant,  such  as  appertain 
to  hunting,  war,  and  their  limited  domestic  concerns,  they 
manifest  observation,  skill,  and  intellect ; but  beyond  these 
their  knowledge  is  very  limited.  They  necessarily  compute 
by  numbers,  but  their  arithmetic  is  entirely  mental.  It  is 
an  interesting  fact,  that  of  four  different  languages,  which 
I examined,  the  mode  of  counting  is  by  tens. 

The  Klicatat  nation  count  with  different  words  up  to  ten, 
Lah’s,  one ; neep’t , two  * and  so  to  ten ; then  they  add  wap- 
pena  to  lah’s ; as  laWs  wappena , eleven  ; neepH  wappena , 
twelve  ; neeph  tit,  twenty ; and  in  like  manner  to  one  hun- 
dred, and  so  on  to  a thousand  by  hundreds.  In  the  Nez 
Perce  language,  nox  is  one,  lapeet , two,  metait,  three,  &c. 
After  ten  they  repeat  the  radical  numbers  with  the  addition, 
tit , asnoxtit,  eleven  ; laaptit , twenty  ; metaptit,  thirty.  This 
may  be  a sufficient  specimen  for  the  four  languages,  as  the 
other  two  proceed  in  the  same  manner. 

They  count  their  years  by  snows  ; as,  maika  elaix , snows 
six,  that  is,  six  years ; and  months  by  moons,  and  days  by 
sleeps  ; pinemeek  pe-e-lep,  sleeps  four,  (four  days.)  It  is  not 
common  that  they  know  their  exact  age  ; nor  are  they  very 
accurate  in  chronology. 

They  are  very  fond  of  singing,  and  generally  have  flexi- 
ble and  sweet-toned  voices.  Most  of  their  singing  is  with- 
out words,  excepting  upon  some  special  occasions.  They 
use  hi,  ah,  in  constant  repetition,  as  we  use  fa,  sol,  la ; and 
instead  of  several  different  parts  harmonizing,  they  only 


MUSIC. 


243 


take  eighths,  one  above  another,  never  exceeding  three. 
They  are  conscious  of  the  inferiority  of  their  tunes  to 
ours,  and  wished  to  be  instructed  in  this  department  of 
knowledge.  In  this  land  of  moral  desolations,  it  was 
cheering  to  hear  even  the  most  simple  strains  of  melody 
and  harmony. 


244 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Indians  of  the  lower  country. 

The  Indians  of  the  lower  country  are  those  between  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific  and  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia  river, 
and  from  Pugets  Sound  to  upper  California.  The  principal 
nations  are  the  Chenooks,  the  Klicatats,  the  Callapooahs, 
and  the  Umbaquas.  These  nations  are  divided  into  a great 
number  of  tribes,  which  have  their  respective  chiefs,  yet 
each  nation  has  its  principal  chief,  who  is  head  over  all  the 
several  tribes,  and  has  a general  superintending  control. 
Their  persons  are  rather  below  a middle  stature,  and  not 
generally  as  well  formed  as  the  Indians  of  the  plains  or  up- 
per country.  The  women  are  uncouth,  and  from  a com- 
bination of  causes  appear  old  at  an  early  age.  Among  these 
causes  the  habit  of  painting,  in  which  they  indulge,  destroys 
the  smooth  and  healthy  appearance  of  the  skin. 

These  Indians  appear  to  have  less  sensibility,  both  phys- 
ical and  moral,  than  those  of  the  upper  country.  Their 
dependence  for  subsistence  being  mostly  confined  to  fishing 
and  fowling,  they  are  not  so  well  supplied  with  clothing  as 
the  upper  Indians,  who  hunt  the  buffalo,  the  elk,  the  ante- 
lope and  other  game.  The  lower  Indians  obtain  some 
game,  and  clothing  from  the  posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany. I have  often  seen  them  going  about,  half  naked, 
when  the  thermometer  ranged  between  thirty  and  forty  de- 
grees, and  their  children  barefooted  and  barelegged  in  the 
snow  ; and  yet  when  exposed  to  fatigue,  they  cannot  endure 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


245 


the  intensity  of  the  season  as  well  as  civilized  people.  I 
have  noticed  this,  when  I have  had  them  employed  in  con- 
veying me  any  considerable  distance  in  a canoe.  Their 
taste  and  smelling  are  obtuse,  rendered  so  by  their  filthy 
habits  and  contaminated  food.  But  they  are  quick  to  catch 
correctly  a distant  sound,  and  remarkably  keen-sighted, 
acquired  by  their  habits  of  closely  and  carefully  watching 
for' game.  These  nations  being,  from  their  mode  of  sub- 
; sistence,  more  stationary  than  those  of  the  plains,  have  more 
durable  and  comfortable  habitations,  which  are  built  of  split 
plank,  after  the  manner  of  Wanaxka’s,  near  the  falls  of  the 
Willamette,  which  I have  described.  Some  of  them  indulge 
the  fancy  of  making  their  doors  like  the  face  of  a man,  the 
mouth  being  the  place  of  entrance. 

The  lower  Indians  do  not  dress  as  well,  nor  with  as  good 
taste,  as  the  upper.  Their  robes  are  much  shorter,  and  are 
made  of  inferior  materials  ; such  as  deerskins  with  the  hair 
on,  and  skins  of  hares  and  of  squirrels.  I saw  many  women 
of  the  poorer  class,  dressed  in  a short  petticoat  or  skirt, 
made  of  cedar  bark,  or  a species  of  strong  grass  twisted 
into  strands,  one  end  of  which  is  secured  in  a girdle  or  band 
to  the  waist,  while  the  other  is  suspended,  knotted  and 
fringed.  These  are  a substitute  for  cloth,  which  they  are 
too  poor  to  obtain.  The  nations  near  the  ocean,  who  have 
intercourse  with  sailors,  and  access  to  ardent  spirits,  are  as 
1 degraded  as  those  on  our  frontiers,  and  from  the  same  causes. 
By  their  communication  with  those  who  furnish  them  with 
the  means  of  intoxication,  and  who  have  introduced  kindred 
vices,  they  have  become  indolent  and  extremely  filthy  in  their 
habits,  and  more  debased  than  the  beasts  of  the  earth.  How 
perfectly  neat  are  the  deer  and  the  antelope ; how  industri- 
ous the  beaver  and  the  bee ; how  cleanly  is  the  plumage 

22 


246 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


of  the  bird  ; how  well  adapted  to  repose  are  their  habita- 
tions ; in  a word,  how  different  are  all  their  habits,  from 
those  of  fallen,  polluted  man.  It  is  not  the  want  of  rational 
powers,  but  their  abuse  by  sin  which  has  thus  degraded 
him,  and  nothing  but  Christianity  can  bring  him  back  to 
God,  and  the  comforts  and  decencies  of  life. 

The  want  of  moral  instruction,  the  influence  of  bad  ex- 
amples, and  unrestrained  licentiousness,  have  brought  the 
lower  Indians  into  a state  of  wretchedness  which  will  be  en- 
tailed upon  future  generations,  and  which  nothing  but  the 
healing  power  of  the  gospel  can  ever  eradicate.  There 
are  some  exceptions,  but  not  enough  to  save  these  remnants 
of  once  populous  nations,  if  benevolence  and  humanity  do 
not  soon  break  their  slumbers.  It  is  to  be  hoped  the  mis- 
sionaries, now  in  the  field,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  will  in- 
terpose a barrier  to  these  sweeping  desolations. 

In  their  religious  belief,  they  do  not  materially  differ  from 
the  upper  Indians.  While  they  believe  in  one  Great  Spirit, 
they  in  addition  believe  in  subordinate  spirits,  or  invisible 
agencies,  to  whom  they  ascribe  much  the  same  power  as 
has  been  ascribed  to  witchcraft.  We  had  a specimen  of 
this,  when  the  May  Dacre  was  passing  down  the  river  in 
October.  On  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia,  near  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Cowalitz,  there  are  some  dark  recesses  in 
the  basaltic  rocks.  An  Indian  chief  on  board  warned  Capt. 
L.  not  to  approach  those  dark  places;  for  they  were  the 
residence  of  bad  spirits  who  would  destroy  the  ship  and  all 
on  board.  Capt.  L.  purposely  passed  near  the  place  ; and 
the  Indian  was  astonished  that  we  escaped  unhurt,  and  con- 
cluded there  must  have  been  some  great  “ medicine55  in  the 
ship  which  defended  us.  They  believe  in  the  immortality 
of  the  soul,  and  that  in  the  future  state  we  shall  have  the 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


247 


same  wants  as  in  this  life.  Under  the  influence  of  this  be- 
lief, the  wife  of  Calpo,  an  influential  chief  of  the  Chenook 
village  near  Cape  Disappointment,  on  losing  a daughter  in 
the  year  1829,  killed  two  female  slaves  to  attend  her  to  the 
world  of  spirits,  and  for  the  particular  purpose  of  rowing 
her  canoe  to  the  far  off  happy  regions  of  the  south,  where 
they  locate  their  imaginary  elysium.  She  deposited  her 
daughter,  with  the  two  slain  females  by  her  side  in  a canoe, 
with  articles  of  clothing  and  domestic  implements.  She 
was  the  daughter  of  Concomly,  and  a woman  of  distinguished 
talents  and  respectability,  a firm  friend  of  white  men,  and 
had  more  than  once  saved  them  from  death.  How  dark  was 
the  mind  of  this  talented  woman,  and  how  differently  would 
she  have  conducted  under  the  influence  of  divine  revelation  ! 
These  Indians  never  mention  the  name  of  their  relatives 
after  they  are  dead. 

It  is  only  in  the  lower  country  of  the  Oregon  Territory, 
and  along  the  coast  that  slavery  exists.  It  was  formerly 
practiced  in  the  upper  country,  but  was  long  since  abolished. 
The  Walla  Walla  tribe  are  descended  from  slaves  formerly 
owned  and  liberated  by  the  Nez  Perce  Indians.  They  per- 
mitted, as  I have  stated  above,  their  slaves  to  reside  and  to  * 
intermarry  in  their  families,  and  reasoning  on  the  princi- 
ples of  natural  justice,  they  concluded  that  it  was  not  right 
to  hold  in  slavery  their  own  descendants,  and  liberated  them, 
and  they  are  now  a respectable  tribe. 

Gambling  is  also  practiced  among  the  lower  Indians,  and 
carried  to  perfection.  After  they  have  lost  every  thing 
they  possess,  they  will  put  themselves  at  stake ; first  a hand, 
and  if  unsuccessful,  the  other;  after  this  an  arm,  and  in  the 
same  manner,  piece  by  piece,  until  all  is  lost  except  the  head, 
and  at  last  their  head ; and  if  they  lose  this,  they  go  into 


248 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


perpetual  slavery.  If  civilized  men  will  gamble,  it  is  desi- 
rable they  should  carry  gaming  to  the  same  perfection  ; for 
then  they  would  cease  to  be  pests  in  society,  and  however 
different  may  be  our  sentiments  upon  the  subject  of  slavery, 
in  this  we  should  generally  be  agreed,  that  such  slaves 
would  not  deserve  much  commiseration.  The  Indians,  how- 
ever, do  not  set  their  souls  at  the  hazard  of  the  game,  as 
civilized  gamblers  do,  when  they  imprecate  the  eternal 
vengeance  of  God  upon  themselves  if  they  are  not  success- 
ful. The  Indian  gambles  away  his  inalienable  rights  for 
time  only. 

It  is  a universal  practice  to  indulge  in  smoking,  but  they 
do  it  in  a dignified  manner.  They  use  but  little  tobacco, 
and  with  it  they  mix  freely  a plant  which  renders  the  fume 
less  offensive.  It  is  a social  luxury,  and  for  its  enjoyment 
they  form  a circle,  using  only  one  pipe.  The  principal 
chief  begins  by  drawing  three  whiffs,  the  first  of  which 
he  sends  upward,  and  then  passes  the  pipe  to  the  next  per- 
son in  dignity,  and  in  like  manner  it  passes  around  until  it 
comes  to  the  first  chief  again.  He  then  draws  four  whiffs, 
the  last  of  which  he  blows  through  his  nose  in  two  columns, 
in  circling  ascent,  like  a double-flued  chimney.  While 
thus  employed,  some  topic  of  business  is  discussed,  or  some 
exploit  in  the  chase,  or  some  story  of  the  battle-field,  is  re- 
lated ; and  the  whole  is  conducted  with  gravity.  Their 
pipes  are  variously  constructed,  and  of  different  materials. 
Some  of  them  are  wrought  with  much  labor  and  ingenuity 
of  an  argillaceous  stone,  of  very  fine  texture,  of  a blue  black 
color,  found  at  the  north  of  Queen  Charlotte’s  island.  It  is 
the  same  kind  of  stone  except  in  color,  as  that  found  upon 
the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  which  is  brick  red.  These 
stones,  when  first  taken  out  of  the  quarries,  are  soft  and 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


249 


easily  worked  with  a knife,  but  on  being  exposed  to  the  air, 
become  hard,  and  are  susceptible  of  a very  good  polish. 

The  Indians  in  the  lower  country  are  more  indolent  than 
in  the  upper  ; and  the  common  motives  for  industry  operate 
reversely  from  those  in  civilized  communities.  The  more 
they  can  get  for  their  labor,  the  less  they  will  do  ; the  more 
they  can  get  for  an  article  in  sale,  the  less  they  will  bring 
into  market.  Their  wants  are  but  few,  and  when  these 
are  supplied,  they  will  do  no  more.  They  have  no  dispo- 
sition to  hoard  up  treasures,  nor  any  enlarged  plans  to  exe- 
cute, requiring  expense  and  labor.  If  they  have  any  par- 
ticular present  want  to  supply,  they  will  do  what  is  suffi- 
cient to  satisfy  it,  and  make  no  farther  effort  until  urged  by 
a returning  necessity.  To  make  them  industrious  and  pro- 
vident, you  must  induce  them  to  set  a higher  estimate  upon 
the  comforts  of  life,  and  show  them  that  they  are  attainable, 
and  that  there  is  an  increase  of  happiness  growing  out  of 
industry  ; and  all  this  must  be  learned  by  experience,  for 
abstract  reasoning  and  theories  are  of  no  avail.  An  Indian 
may  be  taken  abroad  and  instructed,  and  convinced  of  the 
advantages  of  civilization,  but  if  sent  back  to  his  country 
alone,  he  will  become  discouraged,  and  return  to,  his  former 
habits.  Missionaries,  and  practical  farmers,  and  artisans, 
must  go  among  them,  and  make  it  the  business  of  their 
lives  to  do  them  good,  and  identify  their  own  interests  with 
theirs.  Charging  them  with  indolence,  and  insensibility, 
and  cruelty,  will  never  make  them  wiser  or  better.  He  is 
the  true  philanthropist,  who,  instead  of  passing  by  on  the 
other  side,  goes  to  them,  and  does  all  in  his  power  to  raise 
them  from  their  degradation,  and  bring  them  to  God  and  to 
heaven. 

The  Indians  of  the  lower  country,  although  less  anxious 
22* 


250 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


to  be  instructed  in  the  things  of  religion,  than  those  of  the 
upper  country,  express  a readiness  to  receive  instructors. 
I have  not  found  among  them,  nor  any  Indians  beyond  the 
influence  of  frontier  settlements,  any  thing  like  what  has 
been  stated  to  have  taken  place  in  other  sections  of  our 
country  : that  they  will  listen  to  statements  made  by  mis- 
sionaries, and  give  their  assent  to  what  is  said  as  very  good ; 
and  then  state  their  own  theories  of  religion,  expecting  the 
same  courteous  assent  in  return.  Neither  have  I seen  any 
disposition  manifested,  to  say  that  the  Christian  religion  is 
good  for  white  men,  but  as  red  men  differ,  they  need  a dif- 
ferent religion  and  mode  of  life.  They  have  not  yet  been  in- 
stigated by  infidels  to  say  such  things.  They  are  conscious 
of  their  ignorance  of  God  and  salvation,  and  of  the  various 
arts  and  sciences.  While  an  indifference  and  apathy  char- 
acterize some,  which  is  discouraging,  yet  I know  of  no  in- 
superable obstacles  to  their  improvement. 

While  gratitude  is  a general  characteristic  of  Indians, 
they  have  in  some  cases  their  peculiar  way  of  expressing 
it.  An  Indian  had  a son  laboring  for  a long  time  under  a 
lingering  and  dangerous  complaint.  Their  medicine  men 
had  done  all  they  could  for  him,  but  without  success.  The 
father  brought  his  son  to  the  hospital  at  Fort  Vancouver, 
and  earnestly  desired  to  have  him  treated  with  care  and 
with  the  best  medical  attendance.  The  sick  son  was  re- 
ceived, and  in  about  six  months  was  restored  to  health. 
When  his  father  came  to  take  him  home,  he  remarked  to 
Dr.  McL.  “ My  son  is  a good  boy,  he  has  been  with  you  a 
long  time,  and  I think  you  must  love  him  ; and  now  as  he  is 
about  to  leave  you,  will  you  not  give  him  a blanket  and 
shirt,  and  as  many  other  small  things  as  you  think  will  be 
good?  We  shall  always  love  you.55 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


251 


The  lower  Indians  “ make  their  medicine,57  in  some  par- 
ticulars, differently  from  those  farther  east.  Their  professed 
objects  are  to  obtain  present  relief,  if  not  a radical  cure; 
to  make  his  exit  more  easy  if  the  patient  dies,  and  that  his 
soul  may  be  rendered  capable  of  performing  its  journey  to 
its  far  distant  and  happy  country,  and  also  to  assuage  the 
sorrow  of  surviving  relatives.  The  process  is  simple,  and 
occupies  five  or  six  hours.  The  patient  is  laid  upon  a bed 
of  mats  and  blankets,  sometimes  a little  elevated,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a frame  work.  Two  “ medicine  men55  place 
themselves  upon  this  frame,  and  commence  a chant  in  low 
long-drawn  tones,  each  holding  a wand  in  his  hand,  three 
or  four  feet  long,  with  which  they  beat  upon  the  frame, 
keeping  time  with  their  tune.  They  gradually  increase 
the  loudness  and  the  movement  of  their  medicine  song,  with 
a correspondent  use  of  their  wand,  until  the  noise  becomes 
almost  deafening,  and  undoubtedly  often  hurries  the  patient 
out  of  the  world.  During  this  time  the  near  relations  affect 
indifference  to  the  condition  of  the  sick  person,  lest  their 
anxiety  should  counteract  the  influence  of  the  charm,  and 
they  are  generally  employed  about  their  common  business, 
the  women  in  making  mats,  baskets,  and  moccasons;  and 
the  men  lolling  about,  smoking,  or  conversing  upon  com- 
mon subjects.  In  some  cases,  especially  if  their  confidence 
in  the  medicine  man  is  small,  they  manifest  much  affliction 
and  concern ; and  in  all  cases  after  the  person  dies,  they 
make  great  lamentation. 

I have  already  mentioned  the  practice  of  the  lower  na- 
tions of  flattening  their  heads  and  piercing  their  noses.  But 
another  reported  custom,  of  having  pieces  of  sea-horse’s  tusks, 
or  oval  pieces  of  wood  an  inch  and  a half  long  and  an  inch 
wide,  inserted  into  a hole  in  their  under  lip,  made  for  the 


252 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


purpose,  is  not  correct  in  regard  to  any  of  the  Indians  in 
this  section  of  country.  Captain  Beechy  mentions  it  as  a 
common  practice  from  Norton’s  island  and  northward  ; 
which  was  noticed  by  Deshnow,  as  long  ago  as  1648,  that 
this  ornament  was  worn  by  men  and  women  about  Prince 
William’s  sound,  and  which  custom,  Captain  B.  says,  is 
common  the  whole  distance  along  the  western  shores  of 
America,  as  far  as  California.  I saw  some  specimens  of 
this  ornament,  or  rather  deformity,  which  were  worn  by 
the  natives  at  Millbank  Sound. 

The  wealth  of  the  lower  Indians  is  estimated  by  the  num- 
ber of  their  wives,  slaves,  and  canoes.  Every  Indian  of  any 
distinction  takes  as  many  wives  as  he  is  able  to  support, 
and  his  wealth  is  supposed  to  accord  with  the  number. 
They  are  quite  destitute  of  horses,  and  their  almost  only 
mode  of  traveling  is  in  canoes  ; for  the  forests  are  so  dense 
that  they  are  nearly  impenetrable,  and  they  do  not  construct 
any  roads.  As  the  upper  Indians  excel  in  horsemanship, 
so  these  excel  in  the  management  of  canoes,  which  are  un- 
commonly well  made,  and  of  various  sizes,  from  twelve  to 
thirty  feet  long ; the  largest  will  carry  as  much  as  a good 
bateau.  They  are  generally  made  of  the  fir  tree.  The 
bow  and  stern  are  raised  high,  so  as  to  meet  and  ward  off 
the  boisterous  waves,  and  the  bow  is  sometimes  decorated 
with  figures  of  animals,  and  the  upper  edge  of  the  canoe  is 
ornamented  with  shells.  Slaves  are  employed  in  propelling 
the  canoes,  but  not  exclusively  ; for  often  the  chiefs  will 
perform  their  part  of  the  labor,  and  the  women  are  equally 
expert  with  the  men. 

Their  manufactures  do  not  widely  differ  from  those  of  the 
upper  country,  with  the  addition  of  hats  and  baskets  of  skil- 
ful workmanship,  made  of  grass  of  superior  quality,  equal 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


253 


to  the  Leghorn.  The  native  hats  are  a flaring  cone.  Their 
baskets  are  worked  so  closely  as  to  hold  water,  and  are 
used  for  pails.  Some  of  them  are  interwoven  with  various 
colors  and  devices,  fancifully  representing  men,  horses,  and 
flowers. 

The  government  of  the  Indian  nations  is  in  the  hands  of 
chiefs,  whose  office  is  hereditary,  or  obtained  by  some  spe- 
cial merit.  Their  only  power  is  influence;  and  this  in 
proportion  to  their  wisdom,  benevolence,  and  courage. 
They  do  not  exercise  authority  by  command,  but  influence 
by  persuasion,  stating  what  in  their  judgment  they  believe 
to  be  right  and  for  the  greatest  good  of  their  tribe  or  nation, 
or  of  any  family  or  community.  The  chiefs  have  no  pow- 
er of  levying  taxes,  and  they  are  so  much  in  the  habit  of 
contributing  their  own  property  for  individual  or  public 
good,  that  they  are  not  generally  wealthy.  Their  influence 
however  is  great ; for  they  rarely  express  an  opinion  or  de- 
sire, which  is  not  readily  assented  to  and  followed.  Any 
unreasonable  dissent  is  subdued  by  the  common  voice  of 
the  people.  Probably  there  is  no  government  upon  earth 
where  there  is  so  much  personal  and  political  freedom,  and 
at  the  same  time  so  little  anarchy ; and  I can  unhesitatingly 
say,  that  I have  nowhere  witnessed  so  much  subordination, 
peace,  friendship,  and  confidence  as  exist  among  the  Indi- 
ans, in  the  Oregon  Territory.  The  day  may  be  rued,  when 
their  order  and  harmony  shall  be  interrupted  by  any  instru- 
mentality whatever. 

There  are  exceptions,  however,  to  the  general  fact  of  the 
good  conduct  of  the  chiefs  and  the  respect  which  is  given 
them.  Cazenove,  the  first  chief  of  the  Chenook  nation,  is 
one.  He  was  a great  warrior,  and  before  the  desolating 
sickness,  which  commenced  in  the  year  1829,  could  bring 


254 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


a thousand  warriors  into  action.  He  is  a man  of  talents, 
and  his  personal  appearance  is  noble,  and  ought  to  represent 
a nature  kind  and  generous ; but  such  is  his  character,  that 
his  influence  is  retained  among  his  people  more  by  fear 
than  by  affection.  I saw  him  often,  and  several  times  at 
my  room,  while  at  Fort  Vancouver.  On  Tuesday,  Februa- 
ry 2d,  I attended  the  funeral  of  his  only  son,  the  heir  to  his 
chieftainship,  a young  man  who  had  lingered  under  a pro- 
tracted disease.  Cazenove  departed  from  the  long  estab- 
lished custom  of  his  nation  and  fathers  of  depositing  the 
dead  in  canoes,  and  had  him  buried  in  the  cemetery  of  the 
Fort,  in  the  decent  manner  of  civilized  people.  He  had  the 
coffin  made  large  for  the  purpose  of  putting  into  it  clothing, 
blankets,  and  such  other  articles,  as  he  supposed  necessary 
for  the  comfort  of  his  son  in  the  world  to  which  he  was 
gone.  Every  thing  connected  with  the  ceremony  of  the 
interment  was  conducted  with  great  propriety.  I was  not 
at  the  time  furnished  with  an  interpreter,  but  addressed 
those  present  who  understood  English.  Cazenove  expressed 
his  satisfaction  that  an  address  was  given,  considering  it  a 
token  of  respect  for  his  son  ; and  appeared  solemn  in  his 
affliction,  indulging  tears  only,  and  not  any  loud  lamenta- 
tions. Had  he  conducted  with  equal  propriety  subsequently, 
he  would  have  been  worthy  of  commendation.  But  when 
he  returned  to  his  dwelling  that  evening,  he  attempted  to 
kill  the  mother  of  this  deceased  son,  who  was  the  daughter 
of  Concomly,  and  formerly  the  wife  of  Mr.  McDougal. 
The  chiefs  say,  that  they  and  their  sons  are  too  great  to 
die  of  themselves,  and  although  they  may  be  sick,  and  de- 
cline, and  die,  as  others  do,  yet  some  person,  or  some  evil 
spirit  instigated  by  some  one,  is  the  invisible  cause  of  their 
death ; and  therefore  when  a chief,  or  chiefs  son  dies,  the 


INDIANS  OF  THE  LOWER  COUNTRY. 


255 


supposed  author  of  the  deed  must  be  killed.  Cazenove,  on 
this  occasion,  fixed  on  the  mother  of  this  son  as  the  victim 
of  his  rage,  notwithstanding  she  had  been  most  assiduous  in 
her  attention  to  him,  during  his  protracted  sickness.  Of 
his  several  wives,  she  was  the  most  beloved,  and  his  mis- 
guided mind  led  him  to  believe,  that  the  greater  the  sacri- 
fice, the  greater  the  manifestation  of  his  attachment  to  his 
son,  and  the  more  propitiatory  to  his  departed  spirit.  She 
fled  into  the  woods,  and  the  next  morning,  when  the  gates 
were  opened,  came  into  this  fort  and  implored  protection. 
She  was  secreted  here  several  days,  until  her  friends  at 
Chenook  Bay  heard  of  her  situation,  and  came  and  secretly 
took  her  away.  Some  days  after  this,  a woman  was  found 
killed  by  the  hand  of  violence,  and  it  was  supposed  to  have 
been  done  by  Cazenove  or  some  one  in  his  employ. 


256 


CONVERSATION  WITH  AN  INDIAN. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Conversation  with  an  intelligent  Indian — meeting  with  Indians — • 
early  and  mild  season — La  Dalles  Indians — their  anxiety  to  receive 
the  gospel — Nootka  humming  bird — number  and  location  of  the 
Indians  in  the  lower  country — Indians  of  the  north — the  agitated 
question — solitariness. 

A very  intelligent  and  influential  Indian  from  the  Cas- 
cades called  at  my  room,  on  the  8th  of  February,  to  en- 
quire about  God.  I endeavored  to  obtain  from  him  his  own 
system  of  religion.  He  said,  he  believed  there  is  a God, 
and  he  supposed  he  made  all  things,  but  he  did  not  know 
any  thing  more  about  him.  I questioned  him  in  regard  to 
his  belief  of  a future  state,  and  what  he  expected  would  be- 
come of  him  when  he  died.  He  said  he  did  not  know.  He 
supposed  that  he  should  have  an  existence  after  death,  but 
did  not  know  what  it  would  be ; and  wished  me  to  tell  him. 
I endeavored  to  enlighten  his  mind,  and  to  unfold  to  him 
the  great  fundamental  truths  of  God  and  eternity,  and  the 
way  to  be  saved.  He  listened  with  attention,  and  appeared 
sober.  He  told  me  the  Indians  were  growing  better  ; that 
they  did  not  kill  each  other  in  wars  as  in  times  past ; that 
they  did  not  rob  and  steal  as  heretofore.  I told  him  that 
was  good,  but  to  be  saved  they  must  repent  and  receive  the 
Savior  by  faith,  as  the  only  hope  for  sinners.  So  benighted 
are  the  minds  of  these  heathen,  and  so  barren  their  lan- 
guage upon  spiritual  and  invisible  subjects,  that  I had  to 
use  such  illustrations  as  I judged  best  adapted  to  convey 


LA  DALLES  INDIANS. 


257 


truth  to  his  mind,  and  I doubt  not  that  he  received  some 
knowledge. 

The  next  day  he  called  again,  and  wished  me  to  take  his 
children  and  teach  them  how  to  read  and  write,  and  to  wor- 
ship God.  I endeavored  to  explain  to  him  the  object  of  my 
tour,  and  that  when  I returned  I would  use  my  influence  to 
have  others  come  and  live  among  them.  But  he  wanted 
me  to  continue  with  them  and  instruct  them.  And  when  I 
told  him  I must  go,  and  endeavor  to  get  several  to  come  and 
teach  in  different  tribes,  he  wished  to  know  how  many 
sleeps  it  would  take  me  to  go,  and  how  many  sleeps  before 
others  would  come.  I told  him  it  would  be  a great  number. 
He  wished  to  know  if  it  would  be  moons.  I answered  in 
the  affirmative,  and  told  him  it  would  be  at  least  two  snows. 
He  paused  and  looked  sorrowful.  His  very  look  affected 
me  ; he  arose  and  went  out. 

Sabbath,  14th.  I attended  service  as  usual  in  English. 
There  were  many  Indians  from  the  La  Dalles  who  wished 
to  know  if  they  might  be  present.  We  told  them  there 
would  not  be  sufficient  room  in  the  hall,  but  a few  of  their 
chiefs  might  attend,  and  after  the  English  service  I would 
meet  with  them  ; which  I accordingly  did  in  the  afternoon. 

They  were  punctual  at  the  hour,  and  came  in  single  file, 
the  first  chief  leading  the  way.  When  I prayed  with  them, 
they  all  kneeled  down  except  two  or  three,  and  these  w$re 
reprimanded  by  the  chief  for -impropriety  of  conduct.  As 
on  other  similar  occasions,  I endeavored  to  instruct  them  in 
the  first  principles  of  our  revealed  religion,  to  which  they 
gave  strict  attention.  The  first  chief,  at  the  close  of  service 
wished  to  speak  ; and  on  receiving  permission,  spoke  a short 
time  to  his  people,  and  then  told  me  he  had  prayed  much  to 

the  Great  Spirit,  and  found  his  heart  was  no  better,  but 

23 


258 


EARLY  SPRING. 


worse.  He  said,  a white  man  gave  them  a flag,  and  told 
them  to  set  it  up  on  a pole,  on  Sundays,  and  meet  and  pray, 
sing  their  songs,  and  dance  around  the  pole  bearing  the  flag; 
and  that  they  had  done  so  a long  time.  He  wished  to 
know  if  it  was  right,*  I told  him  it  was  right  to  meet  and 
pray,  and  sing,  and  talk  about  God,  but  to  dance  on  the 
Sabbath  was  very  wrong,  and  would  offend  God.  I added 
farther,  that  they  needed  some  person  to  teach  them  the 
right  way  to  worship  God  and  to  be  saved.  He  was  affect- 
ed, and  kneeled  down  and  with  tears  in  his  eyes  said,  if  you 
must  go  away,  do  send  us  some  one  to  teach  us  the  right 
way  to  serve  God.  We  will  now  throw  away  what  the  man 
said  to  us  about  dancing.  We  will  go  to  our  people  and 
tell  them  what  you  have  said,  and  worship  God  as  you  have 
taught  us.  I never  felt  so  much  like  weeping  over  the 
heathen,  as  on  this  occasion  ; to  see  this  poor  benighted 
Indian  chief  upon  his  knees,  with  tears  in  his  eyes  pleading 
for  some  one  to  come  and  teach  them  the  way  to  heaven » 
What  a spectacle ! 

March  1st.  We  have  many  indications  of  the  presence 
of  spring.  The  mildness  of  the  climate,  and  the  soft  tem- 
perature of  the  season  west  of  the  mountains,  render  it  one 
of  the  most  delightful  portions  of  our  continent.  The  wide 
and  sudden  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  to  which  the  east- 
ern portions  are  subject,  are  almost  unknown  here,  and 
while  this  is  more  agreeable,  it  is  also  more  favorable  to 
health.  Those  who  have  the  charge  of  the  farming  estab- 
lishment at  this  place,  have  commenced  sowing  thus  early 

* The  reason  assigned  for  including  dancing  in  the  services  of  the 
holy  Sabbath,  was  the  fear,  that  singing  and  praying  without  dancing, 
would  not  interest  the  Indians ; and  to  include  it  would  not  be  so 
great  a departure  from  their  common  practices,  as  to  excite  aversion 
to  worship. 


LA  DALLES  INDIANS. 


259 


their  spring  crops ; and  the  gardener  is  preparing  his  ground 
for  the  seeds.  The  grass  in  the  yard  begins  to  assume  its 
beautiful,  fresh  green.  The  robin  and  blackbird  have  con- 
tinued here  through  the  winter,  and  now,  with  some  others 
of  their  feathered  brethren,  resume  their  cheerful  warb- 
lings  in  the  fields  and  groves.  During  the  winter,  the  ther- 
mometer has  not  fallen  below  22°  Fahrenheit,  and  to  this 
point  only  three  days.  At  this  date,  it  stood  at  sunrise,  at 
37°;  at  noon,  46°;  and  at  sunset,  at  44°.  The  rains  through 
the  winter  have  been  less  constant  and  heavy  than  1 antici- 
pated ; and  snow  has  fallen  only  ten  days,  sometimes  in 
trifling  quantities,  and  at  no  one  time  over  the  depth  of  six 
inches,  and  has  remained  on  the  ground  only  a few  days. 
Some  have  supposed,  that  the  genial  climate  of  the  Oregon 
Territory  is  attributable  to  the  proximity  of  the  great  Pa- 
cific, shedding  the  influence  of  its  soft  winds  far  into  the  in- 
terior. But  the  fact  is,  that  almost  the  only  winds  through 
the  winter  are  easterly  winds,  consequently  coming  direct, 
from  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow. 

A number  of  the  La  Dalles  Indians  arrived  to-day,  who 
reside  eighty  miles  distant.  One  of  their  chiefs  stated  to 
my  friend  Mr.  T.  that  they  had  changed  their  mode  of 
worship ; that  they  do  not  now  dance  on  the  Sabbath,  as 
they  used  to  do,  but  they  meet  and  sing,  and  pray ; and 
that  since  they  have  been  better  acquainted  with  the  way 
to  worship  God,  He  hears  their  prayers,  and  that  now, 
when  they  and  their  wives  and  children  are  hungry,  they 
pray  for  deer,  and  go  out  to  hunt,  and  God  sends  them 
deer  to  satisfy  their  wants.  It  was  interesting  to  know 
that  they  were  disposed  to  do,  as  well  as  listen  to  what  is 
taught  them. 

Sabbath,  13th.  Besides  the  usual  service  in  the  hall  in 


260 


THE  NOOTKA  HUMMING  BIRD. 


English,  I met  the  Indians  from  the  La  Dalles,  and  endea- 
vored to  exhibit  to  them  the  great  truths  of  the  Bible.  They 
listened  with  deep  interest  to  what  I said,  and  then  enquired 
whether  they  might  expect,  after  I should  go  away,  that 
some  one  would  come  and  teach  them.  I could  not  promise, 
but  replied,  that  I hoped  it  would  not  be  more  than  two 
snows,  before  some  one  would  be  sent.  They  enquired  if 
after  one  or  two  sleeps,  I would  let  them  come  to  my  room 
and  hear  more  about  God.  I appointed  to  meet  them  on 
Tuesday  afternoon,  and  spoke  with  them  several  succeeding 
times  before  their  departure. 

It  seems  apparent  to  any  observing  Christian,  that  the 
present  is  the  favorable  time  for  the  introduction  of  the 
gospel  and  civilization  among  the  natives  of  this  wide  inte- 
rior. Soon  the  cupidity  and  avarice  of  men  will  make  ag- 
gressions here,  and  the  deadly  influence  of  frontier  vices 
will  interpose  a barrier  to  the  religion  which  they  now  are 
so  anxious  to  embrace  and  practice.  Every  circumstance 
combines  to  point  out  the  time  when  this  work  should  begin, 
and  one  of  the  most  important  is  that  these  Indians  are  en- 
listed in  favor  of  white  men,  and  feel  that  their  condition,  in 
all  respects,  for  this  world,  as  well  as  the  coming  one,  is 
better  than  their  own.  A well-established  Christian  influ- 
ence among  these  tribes,  would  surely  be  respected  by  those 
who  otherwise  would  invade  their  rights,  and  deprive  them 
of  a home  as  dear  to  them  as  our  own  is  to  us. 

March  24th.  The  season  is  progressing  in  delightful 
mildness.  Flowering  shrubbery  and  plants  are  beginning 
to  send  forth  their  fragrance  ; and  the  Nootka  humming 
bird  has  arrived,  and  is  seen  darting  from  bush  to  bush, 
feeding  upon  the  open  flowers.  This  most  splendid  species 
is  not  known  east  of  the  mountains.  The  whole  of  the  up- 


THE  INDIAN  NATIONS. 


261 


per  part  of  the  body  is  rufous,  the  head  greenish,  the  throat 
cupreous  and  metalloidal  crimson,  varying  according  to  the 
incidence  of  light.  The  throat  of  this  species  resembles, 
that  of  the  common,  except,  that  it  is  even  more  gorgeous 
in  its  colors,  and  in  presenting  the  metallic  feathers,  form? 
a broad  ruff  in  the  inferior  part  of  the  neck,  instead  of  being 
wholly  a component  part  of  the  plumage.  The  swallows 
made  their  appearance  on  the  12th,  and  a new  species  of 
blue  bird  of  uncommonly  beautiful  plumage,  arrived  on  the 
14th.  The  swan,  several  species  of  geese,  and  the  sand 
hill  crane,  are  passing  to  the  north  for  incubation.  Their 
screaming  notes  are  constantly  heard,  and  in  the  night  are 
not  the  most  favorable  to  repose. 

Before  leaving  the  lower  country,  it  will  be  proper  to 
present,  in  a connected  view,  the  best  information  I have 
been  able  to  obtain  of  the  several  nations,  their  locations, 
and  numbers.  There  are  several  tribes,  about  whom  my 
knowledge  is  too  limited  to  make  any  definite  statements. 
Among  them  are  those  about  Pugets  Sound,  and  the  upper 
part  of  the  .Cowalitz  also  the  Ghiltz  Indians,  north  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  and  Chealis  rivers.  And  although 
I have  seen  many  of  the  Klicatat  nation,  who  reside  at  the 
north  of  the  Cascades,  yet  I have  not  been  able  to  learn  of 
them  any  thing  more  definite,  than  that  they  are  a large 
nation.  The  Chenook  nation  resides  along  upon  the  Co- 
lumbia river,  from  the  Cascades  to  its  confluence  with  the 
ocean,  and  though  once  numerous  and  powerful,  now  num- 
ber not  more  than  fifteen  hundred,  or  two  thousand.* 

The  Calapooah  nation  are  located  south  of  the  Chenooks, 
upon  the  Willamette  river  and  its  branches.  They  are  di- 

* Five  persons  are  the  supposed  number  of  a family.  The  number 
of  families  is  ascertained  by  their  number  of  lqdges  or  dwellings. 

23* 


262 


THE  INDIAN  NATIONS. 


vided  into  seventeen  different  tribes,  under  their  respective 
chiefs,  and  number  about  eight  thousand  seven  hundred  and 
eighty  persons,  who  speak  the  same  language,  radically, 
with  only  a little  difference  in  dialect.  They  are  scattered 
over  a territory  of  two  hundred  miles  north  and  south,  and 
sixty  east  and  west.  Their  country  is  uncommonly  good. 

South  of  the  Calapooah  is  the  Umbaqua  nation,  residing 
in  a valley  of  the  same  name.  They  are  divided  into  six 
tribes ; the  Sconta,  Chalula,  Palakahu,  Quattamya,  and 
Chasta.  Their  number  is  about  seven  thousand.  South  of 
this  nation  and  north  of  California,  there  was  a very  power- 
ful nation  called  the  Kincla,  which  before  the  year  1829. 
numbered  four  thousand  warriors.  But  if  they  have  been 
swept  away  by  sickness,  as  the  other  nations  of  the  lower 
country  have,  it  is  probable  their  whole  number  of  men, 
women  and  children,  would  not  now  amount  to  more  than 
eight  thousand. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  along  the  coast,  are  the 
Killamooks,  who  are  numerous,  but  their  numbers  are  not 
known.  South  of  these,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Umbaqua 
river,  there  are  the  Saliutla,  and  two  other  tribes,  supposed 
to  number  2000  persons. 

This  estimate  of  the  Indians,  in  the  lower  country,  makes 
the  number  of  those  known,  to  be  about  twenty-five  thou- 
sand. This  is  probably  a low  estimate.  It  may  safely  be 
concluded,  from  facts  now  collected,  that  there  are,  between 
the  42°  and  47°  north  latitude,  in  what  W’e  term  the  lower 
country,  as  many  as  twenty-five  thousand  more,  making 
fifty  thousand,  wTho  probably  at  the  present  moment  would 
gladly  receive  teachers. 

Gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  gave  the  follow- 
ing statements  of  the  numbers  of  Indians  north  of  Pugets 


DUELING. 


263 


Sound,  viz.  at  Millbank  Sound,  three  tribes,  numbering  two 
thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty-six.  At  Hygana  Harbor, 
five  tribes  or  bands,  amounting  to  two  thousand  ninety-two. 
At  Queen  Charlottes  Island,  eleven  tribes,  numbering  eight 
thousand  six  hundred  persons.  About  Hanaga  and  Chat- 
ham Straits,  there  are  nine  tribes,  containing  six  thousand 
one  hundred  and  sixty  persons.  Making  the  whole  number 
of  inhabitants,  at  and  about  these  places,  between  the  47° 
and  55®  of  north  latitude,  nineteen  thousand  thirty-eight. 
At  Queen  Charlottes  Island  there  is  a field  of  much  promise 
for  a missionary  station,  where  the  necessaries  of  life  could 
be  easily  obtained,  and  for  that  high  northern  latitude,  the 
climate  is  very  mild. 

Their  summer  and  winter  residences  are  built  of  split 
plank,  similar  to  those  of  the  Chenooks.  It  is  said  they  are 
well  supplied  with  fish,  fowl,  oil,  berries,  and  potatoes  of 
superior  quality  and  in  great  abundance ; and  wild  meat  is 
sometimes  obtained.  Their  dress  is  much  the  same  as 
what  has  already  been  described.  Polygamy  prevails,  and 
also  slavery.  They  do  not  treat  their  slaves  with  as  much 
kindness  as  the  Indians  in  the  lower  country  of  the  Oregon 
Territory  treat  theirs.  When  they  kill  their  slaves,  the 
loss  of  property  is  the  only  thing  they  regard.  Sometimes, 
when  one  chief  becomes  offended  with  another,  instead  of 
challenging  him  to  a duel,  he  goes  home  and  kills  a num- 
ber of  slaves,  and  challenges  the  other  to  kill  as  many. 
The  challenged  person,  if  he  can,  kills  as  many  or  more, 
and  notifies  the  challenger  of  the  number ; and  thus  they 
proceed  until  one  or  the  other  gains  the  victory  ; and  the 
one  who  yields  in  this  mode  of  combat  ceases  to  be  a gen- 
tleman. “ The  point  of  honor”  with  these  barbarous  gentry 
is  fixed  higher  than  in  our  Christian  country,  for  here  the 


264 


THE  AGITATED  QUESTION. 


life  of  one  satisfies  the  powerful  principle,  but  there,  blood 
must  flow  profusely  to  quench  the  noble  fire  of  high  minded 
revenge.  They  are  not  unfrequently  engaged  in  wars, 
which  are  often  very  bloody. 

They  are  much  addicted  to  gambling,  and  dancing;  and 
it  is  said  they  excel  in  singing.  The  country  is  mountain- 
ous, and  is  generally  covered' with  dense  forests,  consisting 
mostly  of  fir. 

On  and  about  McKenzie  river  there  are  six  tribes  of  In- 
dians, making  a population  of  about  four  thousand  two 
hundred  and  seventy-five.  The  climate  is  very  cold  and 
unpleasant ; but  uninviting  as  it  is,  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany have  found  men  who  are  willing  to  reside  there  in  suf- 
ficient numbers  to  make  six  establishments , for  the  purpose 
of  obtaining  the  peltries  which  the  Indians  collect.  Their 
principal  establishment,  which  is  Fort  Simpson,  is  on  the 
upper  part  of  the  river  and  is  a place  of  much  resort  for 
the  Indians. 


March  26th.  Rode  down  once  more  to  the  lower  plains, 
as  they  are  called,  and  was  delighted  with  the  freshness  of 
the  wheat  fields,  which  are  beginning  to  wave  in  the  gentle 
breezes,  and  the  forest  trees  are  beginning  to  show  their 
leaves,  and  their  plants  their  flowers.  The  sea  fowl,  which 
through  the  winter  covered  these  fields,  are  gone  to  their 
summer  residences,  and  the  little  feathered  tribes  are  tuning 
their  notes,  so  full  of  melody. 

The  question,  to  whom  does  this  country  belong,  has 
been,  and  is  becoming  still  more,  a question  of  general  in- 
terest, both  in  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States.  The 
aboriginal  population  claim  it  as  their  own,  and  say,  they 


THE  QUESTION. 


265 


merely  permit  white  men  to  reside  among  them.  Before 
the  first  discovery  of  the  noble  river,  which  in  itself  and 
its  branches  waters  almost  the  whole  territory,  these  na- 
tives had  undisputed  possession.  But  their  claim  is  labori- 
ously, extensively,  and  practically  denied ; for  authorities, 
both  of  written  law,  and  the  opinion  of  living  judges  and 
expositors  of  law,  sanction  the  principle  that  “ unsettled 
habitation  is  not  true  and  legal  possession,  and  that  nations 
who  inhabit  fertile  countries  and  disdain  or  refuse  to  culti- 
vate them,  deserve  to  be  extirpated.”  It  is  made,  then,  a 
question  of  enquiry,  whose  claim  to  this  region  is  best  es- 
tablished ? Our  government  claim  exclusive  dominion 
against  any  foreign  power,  of  all  the  country  lying  between 
the  42nd  and  49th  degrees  of  north  latitude,  by  treaties  with 
nations  who  claim  possessions  contiguous,  and  who  have 
relinquished  their  claims  to  the  country  included  in  the 
the  above  parallels  of  latitude,  except  Great  Britain  ; by  the 
discovery  of  the  principal  river  by  Capt.  Gray  of  the  ship 
Columbia,  the  14th  of  May,  1792;  and  by  interior  explor- 
ation. Great  Britain  claims  the  Columbia  river  for  her 
southern  boundary,  by  right  of  discovery.  Capt.  Brough- 
ton, of  the  ship  Chatham,  having  ascended  the  river  with 
two  boats,  as  far  as  where  Fort  Vancouver  is  now  situated, 
took  possession  of  the  river  and  country  in  the  name  of  his 
Britannic  Majesty,  on  the  31st  of  October,  1792.  Capt. 
Broughton  was  associated  with  Capt.  Vancouver  of  the  ship 
Discovery,  on  a voyage  of  discovery  in  the  north  Pacific,  and 
around  the  world.  The  possession  wras  taken  in  his  Bri- 
tannic Majesty’s  name  in  due  form.  A friendly  old  chief, 
who  did  not  understand  a word  of  their  language,  nor  they 
a word  of  his,  was  invited  to  join  in  the  ceremony,  and  to 
drink  his  Majesty’s  health.  Captain  Broughton  says  the 


266 


THE  QUESTION. 


chief  appeared  much  pleased  with  the  transaction.  But  it 
may  be  a subject  of  enquiry,  with  which  the  old  friendly 
chief  was  best  pleased,  the  rum  he  drank  on  the  occasion, 
or  with,the  ceremony  which  was  so  full  of  import.  And 
farther,  did  the  chief,  by  partaking  of  his  Majesty’s  rum  and 
joining  in  the  ceremony,  cede  all  this  country  to  be  the  Io- 
na fide  property  of  a foreign  nation  ? Still  Great  Britain 
“ does  not  set  up  any  claim  of  exclusive  jurisdiction  or  sove- 
reignty therein,  and  denies  the  claim  of  the  United  States 
to  any  such  sovereign  jurisdiction,”  but  professes  to  claim 
for  its  subjects  the  right  of  joint  occupancy,  indefinitely  de- 
ferring the  settlement  of  the  question  of  exclusive  dominion. 
But  these  intricate  questions,  so  often  asked,  I leave  to 
learned  diplomatists  to  decide,  after  confessing  that  I am 
not  able  to  discover  why  the  nations  who  have,  from  time 
immemorial,  occupied  this  country,  and  who,  like  other  na- 
tions, have  their  territorial  limits  tolerably  well  defined 
among  themselves,  should  not  still  possess  the  domain  which 
our  common  Creator  and  Benefactor  has  kindly  given  them. 

The  time  has  arrived  when  I expect  to  resume  the  work 
of  further  exploration.  The  weeks  and  months  which  I 
have  spent  here  have  fled  rapidly  away,  while  I have  been 
feebly  endeavoring  during  the  winter  to  benefit  the  people 
of  the  fort,  and  the  Indians ; and  to  embrace  all  the  oppor- 
tunities that  should  present,  to  collect  information  in  those 
particulars  which  pertain  to  the  direct  object  of  my  tour. 
I shall  wander  for  a length  of  time,  yet  future,  among  the 
wild  scenes  of  nature,  which  have  so  gratified  and  delighted 
me  in  traversing  the  wilderness  of  forest  and  prairie  ; but 
my  heart  looks  back  to  a variety  of  interesting  scenes  of 
civilized  life  and  cultivated  society  in  my  own  far  distant 
land,  and  I ardently  desire  to  see  the  wide  region  before  me 


LIBERALITY. 


267 


brought  under  the  same  beauty  and  cultivation.  All  the 
social  affections  of  our  nature  strongly  desire  the  happiness, 
which  refined  and  Christian  society  and  its  concomitant 
blessings  can  alone  give.  A feeling  of  solitariness,  and  of 
desolation  comes  over  the  mind  as  you  stand  on  the  banks 
of  the  noble  Columbia,  and  perhaps  for  weeks,  it  may  be 
for  months,  no  whitened  sail  becomes  visible  to  the  gaze  of 
your  watching  eye.  At  length  a ship  enters  its  waters,  and 
the  Indians  hasten  fifty  miles  to  tell  you  that  the  white 
man’s  great  canoe,  with  its  three  upright  sticks,  is  on  its 
way,  to  bring  a new  supply  of  blankets,  beads,  and  tobacco. 
The  most  unimportant  incidents  become  interesting  events, 
where  so  much  monotony  exists. 

Monday,  11th  April.  Having  made  arrangements  to 
leave  this  place  on  the  14th,  I called  upon  the  chief  clerk 
for  my  bill.  He  said  the  Company  felt  a pleasure  in  gra- 
tuitously conferring  all  they  have  done,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  object  in  which  I am  engaged.  In  justice  to  my  own 
feelings,  and  in  gratitude  to  the  honorable  Company,  I 
would  bear  testimony  to  their  uniform  politeness  and  gene- 
rosity ; and  while  I do  this,  I would  express  my  anxiety 
for  their  salvation,  and  that  they  may  be  rewarded  in  spir- 
itual blessings.  In  addition  to  the  civilities  I had  received 
as  a guest,  I had  drawn  upon  their  store  for  clothing,  for 
goods  to  pay  my  Indians,  whom  I had  employed  to  convey 
me  in  canoes,  in  my  various  journeyings,  hundreds  of  miles; 
to  pay  my  guides  and  interpreters  ; and  upon  their  provis- 
ion store  for  the  support  of  these  men  while  in  my  employ. 


268 


DEPARTURE  FOR  THE  UPPER  COUNTRY. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Departure  for  the  upper  country — American  hunters— -geology  at  the 
Cascades — Indian  honesty— escape  in  a dangerous  gale — the  Falls 
a favorable  location  for  a missionary  station — tender  sympathy- 
famished  Indians— arrival  at  Walla  Walla — interesting  meeting  of 
Indians — opportunity  to  give  them  religious  instructions — a walk — 
the  nutritious  quality  of  prairie  grass. 

April  14th.  Having  exchanged  farewells  with  the  gen- 
tlemen of  the  fort,  whose  kindness  I shall  ever  remember,  I 
took  passage  in  a canoe  of  an  Indian  chief  belonging  to  the 
La  Dalles.  Our  company  consisted  of  the  chief  and  his 
daughter,  another  Indian  who  took  the  bow,  a half-blood, 
named  Baptiste,  who  took  the  stern,  and  two  white  men, 
who,  with  the  chief,  helped  to  propel  the  canoe,  making 
seven  persons.  These,  with  the  baggage  of  several  hun- 
dred weight,  loaded  the  frail  craft  so  heavily,  that  its  sides 
were  only  about  seven  inches  above  water.  This,  upon  a 
river  averaging  about  a mile  in  width,  with  many  rapids, 
and  subject  to  winds,  was  not  a pleasant  undertaking.  But 
at  this  season  of  the  year,  when  the  Indians  are  about  to 
commence  fishing,  another  canoe  could  not  be  obtained. 

We  proceeded  up  the  river  about  twelve  miles,  to  what 
are  called  the  upper  plains,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
and  encamped.  This  is  a rich  and  beautiful  prairie  of  some 
miles  in  circumference,  and  at  this  early  part  of  the  spring 
was  covered  with  a coat  of  fresh  green  grass  five  or  six 
inches  high.  A little  back  from  the  river,  there  is  a beau- 


THE  CASCADES. 


269* 


tiful  lake,  the  resort  of  water  fowl,  which  are  seen  exhibit- 
ing their  unsullied  plumage;  and  in  the  rear  are  forests  of 
fir,  whither  the  deer,  which  crop  the  grass  of  the  prairie,  flee, 
when  they  see  men  ascend  the  river’s  bank.  A gathering 
storm  rendered  the  night  dark,  cold,  and  dreary ; for  as  yet 
no  friendly  habitations  are  reared  upon  these  fertile  fields 
for  the  resort  and  comfort  of  man. 

The  rain  continuing  with  some  wind,  we  did  not  decamp 
on  the  morning  of  the  15th,  until  a late  hour  ; after  which 
we  passed  up  into  the  mountainous  part  of  the  country  be^ 
low  the  Cascades,  and  encamped  near  the  high  Pillar  rock 
which  I have  mentioned.  Soon  after  leaving  our  encamp- 
ment this  morning,  we  met  Captain  W.  with  a small  com* 
pany  of  men  in  two  canoes  lashed  together,  on  their  way  to 
Fort  William  upon  Wappatoo  island.  They  were  wet  with 
the  rain  of  the  morning ; and  their  meagre  countenances 
and  tattered  garments  did  not  speak  much  in  favor  of  the 
happiness  of  mountain  life,  or  indicate  that  they  had  found 
the  hunter’s  elysium.  But  they  were  in  good  spirits  and 
passed  merrily  on  their  way. 

The  basaltic  rocks,  which  wall  up  the  shores,  in  some 
places  two  and  three  hundred  feet  perpendicular,  and  in  this 
place  for  miles,  do  not  lose  in  interest  by  review.  For  more 
than  half  a mile  the  basalt  presented  the  regular  pentagons. 
Near  these,  where  the  shore  was  inaccessible,  we  found  a 
deer  almost  exhausted  with  swimming  in  the  cold  water. 
Its  helpless  condition  and  its  mild,  large  black  eye,  excited 
by  fear,  pleaded  for  the  exercise  of  humanity ; but  our  men, 
instead  of  rendering  it  that  assistance  which  it  needed,  shot 
it,  and  stained  the  pure  water  of  the  river  with  its  blood. 
I could  not  help  feeling  a sympathy  for  this  poor,  beautiful 
animal. 


24 


270 


INDIAN  HONESTY. 


While  the  men,  on  the  morning  of  the  16th,  were  engaged 
in  taking  the  canoe  up  the  rapids  and  the  Cascades,  I walked 
five  miles,  sometimes  along  the  shore  of  the  river,  and  some- 
times climbing  over  precipices ; and  so  laborious  was  the 
task  to  get  the  canoe  above  all  the  rapids  and  falls,  that  it 
occupied  most  of  the  day,  giving  me  time  for  examining  the 
scenery  around.  Almost  every  variety  of  volcanic  pro- 
duction was  seen,  but  basalt  and  amygdaloid  predominated. 
Large  quantities  of  petrified  wood  were  scattered  along  the 
shores,  some  of  which  preserved  its  natural  appearance ; 
but  the  large  blocks,  when  broken,  presented  the  appear- 
ance of  mineral  coal.  The  scenery  around  is  grand  ; yet 
such  was  the  misty  state  of  the  atmosphere  about  the  tops 
of  the  mountains,  wfiich  were  at  this  time  covered  with  snow, 
and  the  chilliness  accompanying,  that  the  enjoyment  was 
less  than  it  would  have  been  under  other  circumstances. 
After  having  finished  the  portage  by  the  Cascades,  we 
launched  out  upon  the  gentle  current  above,  and  proceeding 
up  the  river  two  miles,  encamped  upon  the  north  side. 
Several  Indians  came  to  our  encampment  and  manifested  a 
kind  and  sociable  disposition.  They  told  us  that  Captain 
W.  the  day  before,  in  cordelling  his  canoes  down  the  Cas- 
cades, had  lost  one,  and  with  it  baggage,  of  which  they  had 
found  some  articles,  that  they  would  deliver  to  him  when  he 
should  again  pass  this  way.  The  Indians  are  coming  in  from 
their  winter  retreats,  and  are  engaged  in  catching  sturgeon. 

The  17th  being  the  Sabbath,  we  did  not  remove.  It  was 
a rainy  day,  and  in  the  forenoon  the  rain  came  down  in 
torrents,  which  is  common  about  these  mountains  through 
the  rainy  season  of  the  year.  W e were  not  able  to  make  a 
fire  for  preparing  food,  until  after  twelve  o’clock,  when  the 
storm  began  to  abate. 


DANGEROUS  GALE. 


271 


On  Monday  the  weather  was  more  pleasant,  and  we  made 
very  good  progress  up  the  river,  through  a country  of  di- 
versified scenery.  Though  less  mountainous  than  about 
the  Cascades,  yet  here  were  mountains  of  interesting  forms ; 
one  was  almost  a perfect  cone,  a thousand  feet  high,  rising 
at  an  angle  of  45  degrees,  beautifully  smooth  and  covered 
with  grass.  We  passed,  a few  miles  above  this,  a bluff 
presenting  a perpendicular  semicircle,  with  fissures  reg- 
ularly radiating  from  the  centre  of  the  diameter.  In  dif- 
ferent places  there  were  red  hills  of  the  color  of  well-burnt 
brick.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  upon 
a pleasant  spot  just  above  a small  Indian  village,  where  we 
found  a good  supply  of  dry  wood,  which  added  to  our  com- 
fort and  convenience. 

A wind  which  blew  very  fresh  through  the  night,  abated 
on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  and  we  proceeded  on  our  way 
with  a gentle  breeze,  before  which  we  spread  a sail  made 
of  a blanket.  The  wind  continued  to  increase  until  the 
middle  of  the  day,  which  rendered  navigation  rather  danger- 
ous. We  came  to  a large  bend  in  the  river,  and  to  save  the 
distance  of  coasting  around,  the  men  who  rowed  wished  to 
pass  over  to  the  south  side  of  the  river,  which  was  here 
more  than  a mile  wide.  This  seemed  a dangerous  experi- 
ment, because  the  wind  and  waves  were  too  high  for  our 
deep-laden  canoe  ; but  as  they  were  anxious  to  save  labor, 
1 did  not  persist  in  my  objections.  We  had  not  passed 
more  than  half  way  across,  before  the  increasing  wind  raised 
waves  which  rolled  and  broke  three  times  as  high  as  our 
canoe,  and  threatened  to  overwhelm  us.  At  length  the  men 
were  not  able  to  keep  the  canoe  headed  across  the  waves, 
and  it  turned  sideways  to  them.  It  seemed  that  nothing 
short  of  a miraculous  providence  could  save  us.  But  by 


272 


EXTRAORDINARY  ESCAPE. 


much  exertion  and  some  abatement  of  the  wind,  we  again 
got  the  canoe  upon  our  course,  and  across  the  waves,  and 
safely  arrived  at  the  south  shore.  But  our  greatest  danger 
was  yet  before  us.  After  coasting  a few  miles  along  the 
south  shore,  we  came  to  a promontory  called  Cape  Horn,  a 
name  given  it  on  account  of  the  dangers  of  passing.  It  is  of 
basaltic  formation,  rising,  as  I afterwards  found  by  measure- 
ment, two  hundred  feet  perpendicular  upon  the  water's  edge, 
extending  about  a mile  in  length,  and  the  lower  part  pro- 
jecting several  hundred  feet  into  the  river.  The  wind  had 
so  far  lulled,  that  we  did  not  apprehend  any  danger  in  pass- 
ing it,  but  when  we  had  doubled  the  Cape,  the  wind  drew 
around  and  increased  to  a gale.  The  foaming,  breaking 
waves  ran  high,  and  we  could  not  return  against  the  wind, 
and  to  go  forward  against  the  current  was  to  add  to  the 
danger  of  being  filled,  or  dashed  against  shoreless  rocks. 
Such  was  the  force  of  the  wind,  and  such  the  efforts  of  the 
men  to  keep  the  canoe  across  the  waves  and  away  from  the 
rocks,  that  in  the  same  instant  of  time,  the  bowman  and 
steersman  both  broke  their  paddles,  and  the  sail  was  torn 
away  from  the  left  fastening,  and  whirled  over  to  the  right 
side  of  the  canoe.  It  seemed  that  all  hope  was  gone.  There 
were  only  three  paddles  remaining,  two  of  which  were  im- 
mediately put  into  the  hands  of  the  steersman  and  bowman. 
It  was  impossible  to  return,  and  to  make  progress  against 
the  current  with  only  such  means,  appeared  equally  imprac- 
ticable. A watery  grave  seemed  inevitable  ; but  by  the 
protecting  mercy  of  God,  when  the  waves  broke,  it  was  just 
without  the  canoe.  It  was  necessary  to  our  safety  to  be 
collected  and  fearless,  and  we  cleared  the  sail,  and  gave  or- 
ders as  though  no  danger  was  near.  Contrary  to  our  high- 
est expectations,  we  continued  to  make  headway  up  the 


LA  DALLES. 


273 


river,  assisted  probably  by  one  of  those  large  eddies,  which 
abound  in  this  river,  until  we  came  to  a bay  with  a sandy 
shore,  where  we  safely  moored  our  frail  barque,  and  waited 
until  the  winds  and  weather  became  more  favorable. 

After  the  wind  had  somewhat  abated,  Indians  came  to  us 
from  the  opposite  shore,  of  whom  we  bought  paddles,  and 
being  again  equipped  for  our  voyage,  we  proceeded  up  the 
river  to  the  La  Dalles,  and  as  far  through  them  as  we  could 
safely  go.  Here  we  landed  and  encamped  on  the  north 
shore,  and  a number  of  Indians  soon  came  to  us,  whom  we 
engaged  to  carry  us  with  horses,  to  the  navigable  water 
above  the  Falls.  Near  this  was  a very  large  eddy,  where, 
two  years  previously,  nine  men  were  drowned..  Their 
bateau  was  drawn  into  it  and  capsized,  and  only  one  man 
escaped,  which  he  effected  by  clinging  to  a bag  containing 
some  empty  kegs.  He  was  carried  a few  miles  down  the 
river,  and  then  taken  up  by  Indians  who  were  passing  in  a 
canoe. 

The  20th  was  occupied  in  passing  the  La  Dalles  and  the 
Falls,  above  which  we  encamped.  This  place  affords  a fa- 
vorable location  for  missionaries.  The  Indians  resort  here 
in  large  numbers  for  fishing,  and  remain  usually  through 
the  summer,  and  some  of  them  through  the  year.  An  in- 
tercourse would  be  always  open  with  surrounding  tribes, 
and  facilities  would  be  at  hand  both  to  disseminate  the 
truths  of  the  gospel,  and  to  obtain  the  means  of  comfortable 
subsistence. 

As  soon  as  we  were  encamped,  the  Indians,  who  are  here 
in  great  numbers  preparing  for  fishing,  came  around  us  and 
their  first  enquiry  was  for  pi  pi,  (tobacco.)  I am  much 
disgusted  with  this  noxious  plant,  and  am  resolved  no  long- 
er to  consider  it  necessary  to  conciliate  the  Indians  by  smo~ 

24* 


274 


CALL  AT  AN  INDIAN  LODGE. 


king  the  friendly  pipe.  If  an  Indian  is  suffering  with  hun- 
ger and  nakedness,  his  first  request  is  for  tobacco.  As  we 
had  parted  with  the  Indians  who  came  with  us  from  Fort 
Vancouver,  we  here  engaged  two  others  to  assist  us  as  far 
as  Walla  Walla. 

On  the  21st,  we  took  a bateau  which  we  found  here,  and 
progressed  slowly  up  the  river  against  the  current  and  fre- 
quent rapids.  On  the  morning  of  the  22d,  while  encamped, 
and  the  men  were  making  preparation  for  breakfast,  I ram- 
bled into  a little  village  in  the  neighborhood,  and  called  at 
a lodge,  whose  inmates  consisted  of  an  aged  woman,  a 
younger  one,  and  four  little  girls.  I addressed  them  in  the 
Chenook  language,  but  they  did  not  understand  me.  Being 
tolerably  familiar  with  the  language  of  signs,  I enquired 
whose  were  those  children.  The  younger  woman  signified 
that  three  of  them  wrere  hers,  but  the  eldest  was  an  orphan, 
whom  she  had  adopted  for  her  own  ; and  in  the  most  pa- 
thetic manner  she  proceeded  to  relate  her  history,  but  little 
of  which  was  intelligible.  The  aged  matron  sitting  on  the 
ground  of  her  movable  lodge,  with  her  head  reclined  upon 
her  hand,  occasionally  introduced  a few  sentences  to  aid 
the  narration ; and  so  sad  and  affecting  was  the  whole  ac- 
cent and  sound  of  their  voices,  that  I freely  sympathized 
with  them,  and  nodded  my  assent  to  all  they  said.  I re- 
gretted the  necessity  which  compelled  me  to  leave  them 
without  being  able  to  point  them  to  Him,  who  is  touched 
with  the  feelings  of  our  infirmities,  and  who  binds  up  the 
broken  in  heart.  I thought,  as  I walked  slowly  back  to  my 
breakfast,  how  little  of  the  savage  character  was  exhibited 
by  these  females,  and  on  the  contrary,  how  these  amiable 
sensibilities  would  have  done  honor  to  any  civilized  society. 

Our  encampment  on  the  24th,  was  on  the  south  side  of 


FAMISHED  INDIANS. 


275 


the  river,  at  a place  of  great  resort  for  the  Indians,  but  they 
had  not  come  in  from  their  winter  retreat.  There  were 
many  canoes  drawn  up  at  a short  distance  from  the  shore, 
and  left  without  any  apprehensions  of  their  being  stolen, 
showing  the  confidence  the  Indians  have  in  each  others 
honesty.  They  do  not  need  guards,  nor  bolts  and  bars, 
and  prisons. 

To  secure  ourselves  from  a strong,  cold  wind,  we  selected 
a place  densely  covered  with  wild  broom  corn  of  last  year’s 
growth  yet  standing,  and  in  the  rear  of  willows  which  here 
skirted  the  shore  of  the  river.  Two  Indians  came  to  our 
encampment,  who  were  as  miserable  objects  as  I have  seen. 
They  were  not  more  than  half  covered  with  tattered  skins 
of  rabbits  patched  together  ; and  were  emaciated  with  star- 
vation. To  relieve  the  sufferings  of  such  objects  of  pity, 
the  traveler  needs  to  carry  with  him  a store  of  clothing  and 
provisions.  It  is  distressing  to  see  them,  without  having 
the  means  of  furnishing  them  substantial  relief. 

On  the  25th,  we  made  slow  progress  against  the  strong 
current  with  our  poorly  manned  bateau,  and  failing  of  arri- 
ving at  Walla  Walla  as  we  had  hoped,  encamped  under 
the  high  basaltic  rocks,  where  we  found  a small  spot  of  soil 
furnishing  some  wood.  The  next  morning  we  arrived  at 
the  fort,  where  I met  at  the  landing  a number  of  Nez  Perce 
Indians  waiting  my  arrival.  I felt  much  satisfaction  in 
seeing  them,  and  in  witnessing  their  tokens  of  affection.  It 
was  like  meeting  old  friends  ; and  there  appeared  to  be  so 
much  unfeigned  pleasure  in  the  reception  they  gave  me, 
that  it  inspired  the  hope,  that  the  disposition  they  express 
to  learn  the  way  of  salvation  is  based  on  a foundation  more 
permanent  than  novelty.  I had  told  a band  of  the  Cayuse 
Indians,  on  my  way  down  the  river  last  October,  that  I would 


276 


FULFILMENT  OF  PROMISE. 


meet  them  here  in  the  spring,  and  inform  them  about  God 
and  the  way  to  worship  him.  Many  of  them  were  here, 
ready  to  attend  to  the  fulfilment  of  my  promise,  and  un- 
doubtedly my  arrival  at  the  appointed  time,  confirmed  their 
confidence. 

As  the  season  is  yet  early,  I judged  it  expedient  to  con- 
tinue here  a week  or  two  and  improve  such  opportunities 
as  might  offer  for  instructing  the  Indians  residing  near  this 
place,  and  those  who  might  come  from  more  remote  places ; 
making  the  best  use  of  such  facilities  as  can  be  obtained, 
without  waiting  for  the  thorough  knowledge  of  their  lan- 
guage, which  the  prudence  of  some  persons  would  consider 
indispensible  to*  the  commencement  of  teaching  them  the 
way  of  eternal  life.  Their  anxious  curiosity  to  know  what 
the  religion  of  the  Bible  is,  cannot  be  kept  awake  while  its 
gratification  is  postponed.  The  danger  that  delay  will  re- 
sult in  indifference  or  disgust,  is  as  great  as  that  an  early 
attempt  to  impart  instruction  ,may  be  connected  with  imper- 
fections. 

During  my  continuance  in  this  place,  I preached  on  the 
Sabbath  morning  to  the  white  people  belonging  to  the  fort, 
and  in  the  afternoon  to  the  Indians  of  the  Cayuse,  Walla 
Walla,  and  Nez  Perce  tribes.  They  always  gave  good  at- 
tention, and  some  appeared  to  be  much  interested.  An  in- 
stance of  opposition  to  the  truths  of  the  gospel  occurred 
here,  proving  the  truth  of  the  scriptures,  that  the  Savior 
is  set  for  the  fall  and  rising  of  those  who  hear.  A chief 
of  the  Cayuses,  who  several  times  came  to  hear,  disliked 
what  was  said  about  a plurality  of  wives.  He  said  he  would 
not  part  with  any  of  his ; for  he  had  always  lived  in  sin, 
and  was  going  to  the  place  of  burning,  and  it  was  too  late 
for  him,  now  he  was  getting  old,  to  repent  and  be  saved ; 


A WALK GRAND  SCENERY. 


277 


and  as  he  must  go  to  that  place,  he  would  go  in  all  his  sins, 
and  would  not  alter  his  life.  Those  who  are  familiar  with 
the  various  methods  to  which  sinners  resort,  to  avoid  the 
convictions  of  truth  and  conscience,  may  see  in  his  deep  ha- 
tred to  holiness,  that  the  operation  of  sin  is  the  same  in 
every  unsanctified  heart.  This  is  the  only  instance  of  open 
opposition,  that  I witnessed  among  the  Indians  ; nor  does 
it  characterize  the  Cay  use  tribe.  They  very  much  resem- 
ble the  Nez  Perces  in  their  peaceable  disposition,  and  desire 
to  be  instructed,  and  present  in  connection  with  the  Walla 
Wallas,  a promising  field  of  missionary  labor. 

May  3d.  I walked  down  to  the  passage  of  the  Colum- 
bia through  the  basaltic  mountain,  two  miles  below  the  fort, 
to  take  a more  particular  view  of  the  scenery,  than  can  be 
obtained  in  a hasty  passage  on  the  river.  I ascended  the 
mountain,  from  the  top  of  which  I had  a fine  prospect  of  the 
country  around,  opening  in  every  direction  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  All  parts  were  covered  with  the  fresh  green 
of  spring  vegetation.  Very  few  forests  were  to  be  seen  in 
any  direction,  excepting  upon  the  Blue  Mountains  at  the 
south,  and  these,  instead  of  the  fresh  hues  presented  by  for- 
ests at  this  season,  were  softened  by  the  distance  to  a hazy 
blue.  Even  at  this  distance,  the  perpetual  snows  of  Mount 
Hood,  could  be  distinguished  at  the  west,  and  at  the  north- 
west Mount  Rainier  near  Pugets  Sound ; and  at  the  north 
and  the  east  various  parts  of  scattered  mountains.  After 
some  time  employed  in  looking  around  upon  the  vast  ex- 
panse, I approached  the  perpendicular  walls,  between  which 
the  Columbia  descends,  which  are  about  three  hundred  feet 
high,  as  I ascertained  by  the  number  of  seconds  occupied  in 
the  descent  of  large  stones,  projected  from  the  brink  of  the 
precipice,  which  I distinctly  heard  when  they  struck  upon  the 


278 


NUTRITIOUS  GRASS. 


shore  below.  I found  a great  variety  of  scoria  and  lava, 
the  latter  varying  much  in  color  and  density,  some  of  it  suf- 
ciently  porous  and  light  to  swim  upon  water.  Two  thirds 
of  the  way  down  this  deep  channel,  are  two  high  eminences 
called  the  Pillars,  to  which,  by  a circuitous  route,  I de- 
scended. They  stand  upon  conical  bases,  eighty  or  a hun- 
dred feet  high  above  the  river ; and  above  these  bases  rise 
nearly  a hundred  feet  perpendicular.  They  are  indeed  re- 
markable ; but  there  are  so  many  singular  formations  in 
this  volcanic  country,  that  curiosities  become  common.  I 
returned,  though  much  fatigued  with  my  long  walk  over 
prairies,  precipices,  and  mountains,  yet  gratified  with  the 
examination  of  the  works  of  nature. 

My  horses  and  mule,  which  I had  left  with  the  Nez  Perce 
Indians,  were  kept  in  their  country,  one  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  east  of  this  place,  and  were  in  April  brought  into  this 
neighborhood.  To-day,  May  5th,  they  were  caught  and 
brought  to  the  fort.  I was  surprised  to  find  them  in  fine 
order,  with  new  coats,  and  in  high  spirits.  They  had  run 
out  on  the  prairies  without  any  shelter  from  the  storms,  and 
with  no  food,  except  what  the  remains  of  the  previous  sum- 
mer’s growth  afforded,  together  with  the  early  grass  of  spring. 
Who  would  have  supposed,  considering  their  worn  down 
condition,  when  I left  them  in  October,  that  with  no  other 
fare  they  would  have  fattened  during  the  winter.  This 
fact  shows  the  superior  mildness  of  the  climate,  and  the  nu- 
tritive quality  of  prairie  grass,  even  after  dried  up  with  the 
summer  drouth.  Another  evidence  of  the  truth  of  this 
remark  may  be  seen  in  the  condition  of  the  cattle  kept  at 
this  fort.  With  nothing  more  to  feed  upon  than  what 
they  find  upon  the  prairies,  they  are  now  not  only  in 
good  order,  but  some  of  them  are  actually  fat,  and  in  as 


HIGH  WIND. 


279 


good  condition  for  market,  as  oxen  driven  from  the  stalls  of 
New  England. 

I rode  to-day  with  Mr.  P.  ten  miles  up  the  river  to  the 
confluence  of  the  Lewis,  or  as  it  is  called,  the  Nez  Perce 
river,  with  the  Columbia.  They  are  both  noble  streams ; 
the  Columbia  is  nearly  three-fourths  of  a mile,  and  the 
Nez  Perce  a half  mile  wide.  The  prospect  around  is  de- 
lightful ; the  soil  is  good,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  fresh  verdure 
which  is  springing  up  luxuriantly,  at  this  early  season.  A 
large  band  of  horses  belonging  to  a Walla  Walla  chief,  are 
feeding  here.  It  is  a curious  fact,  that  the  Indian  horses 
do  not  often  stray  from  the  place  where  they  are  left ; habit, 
however  produced,  is  as  good  a safeguard  as  inclosures. 
Along  upon  the  shores  of  the  river,  I found  specimens  of 
calcedony  and  cornelian. 

The  sixth  was  a very  warm  day,  the  thermometer  stand- 
ing at  noon,  at  84°.  Distant  thunder  was  heard,  which  is 
an  un frequent  occurrence  west  of  the  great  mountains. 
Towards  and  through  the  night  the  wind  blew  very  strong- 
ly, and  shook  the  bastion  which  I occupied,  so  that  it  seem- 
ed as  if  it  would  be  prostrated  to  the  earth ; but  such  wind 
in  this  particular  section  of  country  is  common. 

During  the  time  of  my  continuance  here,  I had  more 
frequent  opportunities  to  address  the  Indians,  and  in  greater 
numbers,  than  I had  anticipated.  From  the  promise  that 
the  word  of  God  shall  not  return  void,  but  shall  accomplish 
that  whereunto  it  is  sent,  may  not  the  hope  be  indulged,  that 
some  good  fruits  will  be  the  result  of  these  labors.  The 
Walla  Walla  tribe,  though  the  descendants  of  emancipated 
slaves,  are  not  inferior  to  other  tribes,  and  are  treated  with 
the  same  respect. 


280 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  NEZ  PERGE  COUNTRY. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Journey  to  the  Nez  Perce  country — funeral  of  a child — natural  see* 
nery — worship  on  the  Sabbath— return  to  Walla  Walla — industry 
of  the  Indians— ^battle  ground— practice  of  smoking — journey  to 
Colvile. 

In  company  with  several  Nez  Perce  Indians  who  had 
come  down  from  their  own  country  to  escort  me,  I com- 

V 

menced  my  journey  on  the  ninth,  and  pursued  the  same 
route  by  which  I came  last  autumn.  Nothing  eventful 
marked  our  way,  and  we  arrived  at  the  Snake  or  Lewis 
river,  the  evening  of  the  eleventh,  where  we  found  several 
lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces,  who  gave  us  a very  cordial  re- 
ception, and  a warm-hearted  shake  of  the  hand,  the  com- 
mon expression  of  Indian  friendship.  The  night  of  our  ar- 
rival a little  girl,  about  six  or  seven  years  of  age,  died,  and 
on  the  morning  of  the  twelfth  they  buried  her.  Every  thing 
relating  to  the  burial  was  conducted  with  great  propriety. 
The  grave  was  only  about  two  feet  deep  ; for  they  have  no 
spades,  and  a sharpened  stick  was  used  to  loosen  the  earth, 
and  this  was  removed  with  the  hands ; and  with  their  hands 
they  filled  up  the  grave  after  the  body  was  deposited  in  it. 
A mat  was  laid  in  the  grave,  then  the  body  wrapped  in  its 
blanket,  with  the  child’s  drinking  cup  and  spoon  made  of 
horn  ; then  a mat  of  rushes  spread  over  the  whole,  and  filled 
up,  as  above  described.  In  this  instance  they  had  prepared 
a cross  to  set  up  at  the  grave,  most  probably  having  been 
told  to  do  so  by  some  Iroquois  Indians,  a few  of  whom  I saw 


NATURAL  SCENERY. 


281 


west  of  the  mountains,  not  in  the  capacity  of  teachers,  but 
as  trappers  in  the  employ  of  the  fur  companies.  One  grave 
in  the  same  village  had  a cross  standing  over  it,  which,  to- 
gether with  this,  were  the  only  relics  of  the  kind  I saw,  du- 
ring my  travels  in  the  country.  But  as  I viewed  a cross 
of  wood  of  no  avail,  to  benefit  either  the  dead  or  the  living, 
and  far  more  likely  to  operate  as  a salvo  to  a guilty  con- 
science, or  a stepping-stone  to  idolatry, than  to  be  understood 
in  its  spiritual  sense  to  refer  to  a crucifixion  of  our  sins,  I 
took  this,  which  the  Indians  had  prepared,  and  broke  it  in 
pieces,  I then  told  them  that  we  place  a stone  at  the  head 
and  foot  of  the  grave,  only  to  mark  the  place  ; and  without 
a murmur,  they  cheerfully  acquiesced,  and  adopted  our 
custom. 

As  we  proceeded  up  the  river  to  the  confluence  of  the 
Cooscootske,  on  account  of  the  high  water,  we  had  to  pass 
over  the  huge  precipices  of  basalt,  at  the  foot  of  which  we 
traveled  down  last  fall,  and  which  I have  mentioned.  We 
were  compelled  often  to  approach  very  near  the  brink,  where 
it  seemed  as  if  we  were  almost  suspended  over  the  dizzy  depth 
of  three  hundred  feet.  We  arrived  at  the  Cooscootske  early 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  after  leaving  Walla  Walla* 
making  the  distance  about  120  miles.  The  whole  country 
had  put  on  the  loveliness  of  spring,  and  divested  itself  of 
the  dreariness  of  winter,  and  the  grandeur  of  the  mountain 
scenery  appeared  to  rise  before  me  with  new  freshness  and 
delight.  The  Indians  are  assembling  in  great  numbers 
from  different  and  distant  parts  of  the  country,  to  enquire 
about  the  religion  that  is  to  guide  them  to  God  and  heaven ; 
and  which  they  also  think  has  power  to  elevate  them  in  the 
scale  of  society  in  this  world,  and  place  them  on  a level 

with  intelligent  as  well  as  Christian  white  men. 

25 


282 


THE  OPHTHALMY. 


On  the  north  of  the  confluence  of  these  two  rivers,  and 
down  the  Nez  Perce  river,  the  country  is  diversified  with 
hills  and  mountains  of  a great  variety  of  forms,  from  five 
hundred  to  two  thousand  feet  high.  The  volcanic  and  ar- 
gillaceous strata  are  generally  horizontal,  but  in  some  places 
thrown  into  various  degrees  of  inclination,  from  horizontal 
to  perpendicular ; in  other  places  curved  or  waving.  They 
have  all  the  regularity  of  works  of  art,  raised  up  by  human 
skill;  why  should  not  then  the  power  and  skill  of  an  Omnip- 
otent hand  be  acknowledged  in  these  stupendous  works  ? 

After  having  been  several  months  where  the  Indians  of 
the  lower  country  came  daily  under  my  observation,  the 
contrast  between  them  and  these  with  whom  I am  now,  is 
very  noticeable.  The  former  are  more  servile  and  abject, 
both  in  their  manners  and  spirit ; while  the  latter  are  truly 
dignified  and  respectable  in  their  manners  and  general  ap- 
pearance, far  less  enslaved  to  their  appetites,  or  to  those 
vices  whose  inevitable  tendency  is  to  degrade.  They  know 
enough  to  set  some  estimate  upon  character,  and  have  much 
of  the  proud  independence  of  freemen ; and  are  desirous  of 
possessing  a consequence  in  the  estimation  of  other  people, 
and  for  this  reason,  wish  to  be  taught,  and  they  receive  any 
instruction  with  remarkable  docility. 

Saturday,  May  14th.  Very  many  of  the  natives  are 
coming  in  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  Sabbath  with  me ; 
but  as  I have  little  prospect  of  the  arrival  of  my  interpreter, 
I shall  probably  be  left  to  commiserate  their  anxiety,  while 
it  will  be  out  of  my  power  to  do  them  good. 

I have  frequent  applications  to  prescribe  for  the  ophthal- 
my,  with  which  the  people  are  much  afflicted,  and  which  I 
should  think  is  a prevalent  endemic.  Calomel,  applied  in 
about  the  quantity  of  one  grain  to  each  eye,  once  in  twenty- 


WORSHIP  ON  THE  SABBATH. 


283 


four  hours,  I found  to  be  an  efficacious  remedy.  No  inju- 
rious effects  were  known  to  have  occurred  from  its  use,  and 
in  most  cases  it  was  successful. 

The  Nez  Perces  have  been  celebrated  for  their  skill  and 
bravery  in  war.  This  they  have  mentioned  to  me,  but  say 
they  now  are  afraid  to  go  to  war ; for  they  no  longer  be- 
lieve that  all  who  fall  in  battle  go  to  a happy  country. 
They  now  believe  that  the  only  way  to  be  happy  here  or 
hereafter,  is  by  knowing  and  doing  what  God  requires. 
They  have  learned  enough  to  fear  the  consequences  of  dying 
unforgiven,  but  not  sufficient  to  embrace  the  hopes  and 
consolations  of  the  gospel.  I have  been  interested  to  see 
the  reasonings  of  their  minds,  and  the  results  of  their  reflec- 
tions, amidst  the  dimness  of  so  imperfect  a knowledge  as 
they  yet  possess.  It  demonstrates  that  they  are  not  indif- 
ferent to  what  they  hear,  and  that  their  minds  are  inquisi- 
tive, and  capable  of  thought  and  investigation.  They*  have 
obtained  light  sufficient,  to  show  how  great  is  the  darkness 
in  which  they  have  been  enveloped ; and  it  is  to  be  hoped, 
that  these  efforts  to  enlighten  them  will  be  followed  by  those 
still  more  efficient,  until  that  meridian  day  foretold  in  proph- 
ecy, shall  fully  come,  and  these  heathen  be  given  to  the  Savior 
with  all  the  remote  ends  of  the  earth  for  a possession. 

Sabbath,  15th.  The  interpreter  I had  been  expecting  did 
not  arrive,  and  consequently  much  of  what  I wished  to  say 
to  these  hundreds  of  Indians,  could  not  be  communicated 
for  the  want  of  a medium.  I felt  distressed  for  them.  They 
desired  to  celebrate  the  Sabbath  after  a Christian  manner. 
When  the  chiefs  came  and  enquired  what  they  should  do,  I 
told  them  to  collect  the  people  into  an  assembly  and  spend 
the  hours  of  this  sacred  day  in  prayer  and  singing,  and  in 
conversation  on  those  things  about  which  I formerly  in- 


284  RETURN  TO  WALLA  WALLA. 

structed  them.  They  did  so,  and  it  was  truly  affecting  to 
see  their  apparent  reverence,  order  and  devotion,  while  I 
could  not  but  know  that  their  knowledge  was  limited  indeed. 
The  voice  of  their  singing  echoed  from  the  hills  and  vales, 
and  I could  not  but  hope,  that  the  time  will  not  be  greatly 
future,  when  they  will  sing  with  the  spirit  and  with  the  un- 
derstanding. As  a proof  that  they  have  acquired  some 
correct  ideas  of  spiritual  worship,  in  distinction  from  the 
employment  of  mere  outward  forms,  Kentuc,  the  Indian 
who  attended  me  so  faithfully  on  my  outward  route,  came 
to  me,  anxious  to  describe  the  different  manner  in  which  he 
regarded  the  worship  of  the  two  chiefs,  Charlie  and  Teu- 
tacus.  Hevsaid  Charlie  prayed  with  his  lips,  butTeutacus 
prayed  with  his  heart.  Confession  of  sin  appears  to  occupy 
much  of  his  prayers,  and  if  there  is  one  among  this  multi- 
tude, who  it  may  be  hoped,  has  been  everlastingly  benefited 
by  the  gospel,  I believe  it  is  this  man. 

Monday,  16th.  I had  hitherto  been  somewhat  undecided 
what  course  to  pursue  in  my  future  movements  ; but  came 
to  the  conclusion  to  proceed  to  the  place  of  Rendezvous,  and 
join  the  returning  caravan,  provided  I could  go  by  the  way 
of  the  Grand  Round,  and  to  the  south-west  of  the  Snake 
river,  and  explore  a part  of  the  country  which  I had  not 
passed  through  the  preceding  autumn.  But  the  Indians 
chose  to  take  the  retired  route  of  the  Salmon  river  moun- 
tains, to  avoid  danger  from  hostile  Indians,  as  it  was  well 
ascertained  that  there  was  a party  of  Blackfeet  warriors 
ranging  the  territory  west  of  the  great  mountains.  I wish- 
ed to  explore  the  north-east  branch  of  the  Columbia,  which 
runs  through  an  important  part  of  the  country,  and  upon 
which,  and  its  branches,  many  considerable  tribes  reside. 

To  return  by  the  way  my  company  would  travel,  and  by 


INDIAN  INDUSTRY. 


285 


which  I came,  would  be  to  leave  the  object  of  my  tour  only 
partially  accomplished  ; and  after  canvassing  the  subject 
as  deliberately  as  I could,  1 concluded  to  return  to  Walla 
W alia,  procure  guides  and  assistants,  and  go  up  the  Co- 
lumbia as  far  as  Colvile,  which  is  the  highest  post  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  about  seven  hundred  miles,  by  the 
traveled  route,  from  the  Pacific  ocean.  I informed  the  In- 
dians of  my  determination,  who,  though  they  evidently  pre- 
ferred that  I should  accompany  them,  acquiesced  in  the 
decision,  and  showed  more  kindness  than  I had  expected. 
They  readily  appointed  Haminilpilt,  one  of  their  young 
chiefs,  to  attend  me  on  my  return  down  the  river.  After 
writing  several  letters,  to  forward  to  the  United  States  from 
Rendezvous,  we  turned  our  faces  to  our  proposed  destina- 
tion, and  at  night  arrived  at  the  village  on  the  Nez  Perc£ 
river,  where  we  had  encamped  on  the  eleventh. 

At  this  place  I was  peculiarly  gratified  to  notice  the  in- 
dustry of  these  people.  Some  were  engaged  in  catching 
fish,  and  gave  me  some  excellent  salmon  ; the  women  and 
children  were  early  out  on  horseback  to  procure  the  cowish 
root,  which  they  often  manufacture  into  bread  ; and  when 
we  left,  only  a few  old  persons  and  very  young  children  re- 
mained in  their  village.  Five  or  six  miles  from  this  village, 
up  a small  branch  of  this  river,  we  passed  a spot,  which 
some  few  years  ago,  was  a battle-field  between  the  Nez 
Perces  and  some  other  nationr  whose  name  I could  not  with 
certainty  ascertain,  but  probably  it  was  the  Tuelca.  The 
ground  was  judiciously  chosen  by  the  invading  party,  which 
was  just  back  of  a point  of  land  coming  down  near  the 
stream  of  water,  leaving  only  a narrow  pass,  around  which 
they  opened  a fire,  while  the  Nez  Perces,  not  expecting 

the  approach  of  a foe,  were  taken  by  surprise,  and  fifteen  or 

25* 


286 


PRACTICE  OF  SMOKING. 


twenty  of  their  number  were  killed.  The  very  spot  where 
each  individual  fell,  is  now  designated  by  heaps  of  stones 
raised  three  and  four  feet  high. 

The  country  over  which  we  passed  to-day,  a distance  of 
forty  miles,  was  uncommonly  pleasant,  diversified  with  hills 
and  valleys  and  covered  with  its  self-provided  carpet  of 
lovely  green.  Several  Indians  came  on  after  us  and  travel- 
ed in  company.  Near  night  we  encamped  in  a rich  valley, 
through  which  a considerable  stream  of  water  runs  to  the 
north.  Before  it  was  dark,  a number  more  whom  I recog- 
nized as  former  acquaintances,  overtook  us,  apparently  re- 
luctant to  separate  from  our  company.  I conversed  with 
them  about  the  practice  so  universal  among  the  men,  of 
using  tobacco  for  smoking,  a very  expensive  indulgence,  for 
which  they  pay  almost  as  much  as  for  their  whole  list  of 
comforts  besides.  In  reply  to  my  arguments  to  dissuade 
them  from  its  use,  they  said,  “ white  men  smoke.55  I ad- 
mitted the  truth,  but  told  them  that  all  white  men  are  not 
wise  in  every  thing  they  do;  that  they  have  some  practices 
which  are  not  good,  The  Nez  Perces  call  tobacco,  smoke, 
and  remarked,  “ we  are  better  then  than  white  men ; for 
they  eat  smoke,55 — meaning  tobacco — “we  do  not  eat  smoke.55 
This  to  be  sure  was  an  argument  of  much  shrewdness,  and 
wholly  unanswerable.  Such  is  their  attachment  to  this 
stupefying  vegetable,  that  to  obtain  it,  they  will  part  with 
the  last  article  of  food  or  clothing,  or  even  take  down  the 
poles  which  uphold  their  dwellings,  and  sell  them  for  fuel. 
In  this  view  I regard  it  as  a vice,  from  which  they  should 
be  rescued  if  practicable. 

The  18th  we  continued  our  journey,  and  rode  forty-five 
miles  over  a more  fertile  tract  than  we  passed  yesterday, 
and  better  supplied  with  wood*  On  the  upper  part  of  the 


RICH  SOIL. 


287 


Walla  Walla  river  is  a delightful  situation  for  a missionary 
establishment,  having  many  advantages  not  found  for  some 
distance  around.  It  is  not,  however,  so  central  for  either 
the  Nez  Perces,  Cayuses,  or  Walla  Wallas,  as  would  be  de- 
sirable, yet  a mission  located  on  this  fertile  field  would 
draw  around  an  interesting  settlement,  who  would  cultivate 
the  soil,  and  be  instructed.  How  easily  might  the  plough 
go  through  these  valleys,  and  what  rich  and  abundant  har- 
vests might  be  gathered  by  the  hand  of  industry.  But  even 
now  the  spontaneous  productions  of  these  vast  plains,  inclu- 
ding millions  of  acres,  are  so  profuse,  that  not  the  fiftieth 
part  becomes  the  food  of  organic  life.  In  some  places  bands 
of  Indian  horses  are  seen ; the  timid  deer,  or  hare ; the 
wary  marmot,  and  the  swift  gazelle.  But  these,  with  other 
animals,  consume  so  small  a proportion,  that  these  wide 
fields  are  comparatively  unoccupied. 

We  experienced  a long  detention  on  the  morning  of  the 
19th,  in  consequence  of  our  horses  wandering  into  a ravine, 
to  which  retreat  we  could  not  easily  trace  them.  They  did 
not,  however,  violate  their  rule,  of  making  our  encampment, 
for  the  time  being,  their  home.  We  rode  twenty-two  miles 
and  arrived  at  Walla  Walla.  Most  of  the  remainder  of  the 
week  was  occupied  in  necessary  arrangements  for  my  north- 
east tour,  and  in  writing  letters  to  friends.  Mr.  P.  assisted  in 
obtaining  Indian  guides,  and  designated  two  French  voya- 
geurs  to  be  my  assistants;  one  of  whom  could  speak  some 
English.  I concluded  to  take  horses,  and  go  up  through  the 
Spokein  country,  leaving  the  great  bend  of  the  Columbia  to 
the  left  some  fifty  or  sixty  miles,  and  on  our  return  to  take  the 
river.  This  would  give  a more  extended  observation  of  the 
country,  of  the  tribes  who  inhabit  it,  and  of  their  condition  in 
regard  to  prospects  of  establishing  teachers  among  them. 


288 


JOURNEY  TO  COLVILE. 


On  Sabbath,  the  22d,  we  had  worship  as  usual,  and 
the  following  day  commenced  the  journey  for  Colvile.  Our 
course  was  in  an  easterly  direction  forty  miles,  and  at  night 
we  found  a new  place  to  lay  our  heads  for  rest,  in  a valley 
presenting  all  the  appearance  of  the  farmer’s  grass  fields, 
ready  for  the  mower’s  hand,  and  from  which  he  expects  to 
receive  a future  gain.  But  the  natives,  not  appreciating 
these  sources  of  profit,  neglect  them  altogether,  and  gather 
only  a scanty  living  from  a few  esculent  roots,  which  grow 
spontaneously  in  the  waste. 


PALOOSE  INDIANS. 


289 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Paloose  Indians — Pavilion  river — extraordinary  excavation — lost  on 
the  prairie — Indian  principle — Spokein  woods  and  country — Indian 
ferry — Spokein  valley — granite — volcanic  curiosities — fertile  valley 
— worship  with  the  Spokeins — Mill  river  valley — arrival  at  Fort 
Colvile — description  of  the  place — leave  Colvile  for  Fort  Okanagan 
— a mountain  of  marble — Grand  Coule,  or  old  bed  of  the  Columbia 
— Okanagan  described — Long  rapids — arrive  at  Walla  Walla. 

The  morning  of  the  24th,  we  took  a more  northerly  course, 
and  after  traveling  five  hours  over  a somewhat  high  but 
diversified  country,  descended  into  a fertile  valley,  through 
which  flowed  a small  tributary  of  the  Snake  river.  I^ere 
we  found  a village  of  Paloose  Indians  who  are  a band  of  the 
Nez  Perces.  We  hired  them  to  assist  us  in  crossing  the 
river,  which  here  is  a half  mile  wide,  and  has  a rapid  cur- 
rent. We  had  only  a small  canoe,  which  the  strength  of 
the  current  carried  more  than  a half  mile  down  the  river 
before  we  could  gain  the  opposite  shore.  Three  times  we 
had  to  encounter  the  stream,  before  every  thing  was  safely 
over  ; and  the  horses  made  a strong  effort  to  swim  to  the 
opposite  shore.  This,  together  with  refitting,  employed  sev- 
eral hours.  We  traveled  up  the  Pavilion  river,  which  comes 
from  the  high  lands  that  divide  the  waters  of  this  and  the 
Spokein  river.  This  river  is  walled  up  with  basalt,  gene- 
rally high  and  perpendicular,  in  various  windings  and  forms, 
for  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles.  In  some  places 
the  walls  are  spread  out  so  widely  as  to  enclose  large  spaces 
of  rich  interval ; in  other  places  so  closing  upon  the  river 


290 


EXTRAORDINARY  EXCAVATION. 


as  to  leave  only  space  sufficient  for  it  to  pass.  The  night 
was  cold,  the  thermometer  standing  on  the  morning  of  the 
25th,  at  34°. 

We  pursued  our  way  over  hills  and  valleys  of  an  entire 
prairie,  until  we  came  to  the  south  part  of  the  Spokein 
country.  Near  the  summit  level  which  divides  the  waters 
of  the  Snake  and  Spokein  rivers,  there  is  an  interesting  ex- 
cavation, availed  within  by  basaltic  rocks.  The  pillars  are 
regular  pentagons  from  two  to  four  feet  in  diameter,  in  sec- 
tions of  various  lengths,  standing  erect  and  closely  joined, 
making  a wall  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  feet  high.  The 
excavated  enclosure,  though  not  in  a regular  form,  is  yet 
nearly  entire,  containing  fifty  or  more  acres.  On  the  out- 
side of  this  wall,  the  earth  is  as  high  as  the  pillars,  and 
gradually  slopes  off  in  hills  and  dales.  By  what  agency 
was  this  excavation  formed  ? There  is  no  appearance,  as 
in  many  other  places,  of  volcanic  craters,  unless  it  is  itself 
a crater,  and  there  are  no  signs  of  the  action  of  water. 
May  it  not  have  been  a subsidence  ? I passed  through  it 
leisurely,  and  surveyed  with  admiration  these  huge  crys- 
tals, of  dark  materials  truly,  but  showing  not  the  less  for 
that  circumstance,  that  certain  laws  govern  the  mineral 
world,  as  well  as  the  animal  or  vegetable.  We  passed 
to-day  several  small  villages  of  the  Nez  Perce  and  Spo- 
kein nations.  They  all  manifested  a perfectly  friendly 
disposition,  but  appeared  to  be  poor,  evidently  in  want 
of  a comfortable  subsistence.  We  stopped  for  the  night, 
after  a ride  of  fifty  miles,  near  one  of  these  villages  of 
Spokeins.  Their  language  differs  almost  entirely  from 
that  of  any  tribe  or  nation  I have  yet  seen.  One  of 
my  Indian  guides  was  sufficiently  acquainted  with  it  to 
inform  them  of  the  object  of  my  tour  through  their  court- 


LOST  ON  THE  PRAIRIE. 


291 


try,  with  which  they  were  not  only  satisfied,  but  appa- 
rently interested. 

We  took  an  early  departure  on  the  morning  of  the  26th, 
but  traveled  only  a few  hours  before  my  Indian  guides  lost 
the  track  and  the  course  they  should  pursue.  Becoming 
confident  that  they  were  not  right,  I alighted  and  set  my 
pocket  compass,  and  discovered  that  instead  of  a north-east 
direction,  they  were  going  west.  Enquiring  of  them  if  they 
knew  where  to  find  our  trail  again,  one  of  them,  a young  chief, 
putting  his  hand  to  his  head,  and  with  gestures  expressing 
the  confusion  of  his  mind,  answered,  waiitu  en  soko , “ I do  not 
know.55  Our  situation  was  rather  embarrassing.  We  had 
very  injudiciously  left  our  rifles  behind,  and  at  about  an 
equal  distance  from  Walla  Walla  and  Col  vile,  on  a widely 
extended  prairie,  with  provisions  adequate  to  our  wants 
only  for  two  days,  and  no  probable  means  for  obtaining 
more  until  we  should  arrive  at  the  fort ; to  be  lost  under 
these  circumstances  was  no  pleasant  affair.  The  point  of 
a high  mountain  we  had  passed  was  in  view,  and  we  might 
retrace  our  path,  and  therefore  I was  determined  not  to  lose 
sight  of  this  land-mark,  until  we  should  find  the  trail  lead- 
ing to  the  Spokein  river.  While  my  guides  went  off  in 
search  of  it,  I could  hardly  fail  to  find  even  in  our  circum- 
stances, some  amusement  in  the  apathy  of  my  two  French- 
men. They  are  so  confiding  in  Indian  skill  to  find  their 
way  through  any  country,  as  by  intuition,  that  they  will  sing 
or  go  to  sleep  with  the  same  heedless  indifference  when  lost 
in  a wide  wilderness,  as  when  launched  upon  the  waters  of 
a well  known  river,  or  performing  the  duties  of  the  fort. 
They  appear  wholly  unconscious  of  danger  on  the  approach 
of  hunger  and  starvation,  until  long  after  the  last  morsel  is 
consumed,  and  never  borrow  from  futurity  to  add  to  the  evils 


292 


SPOKEIN  RIVER. 


that  afflict  them  to-day.  On  this  occasion  these  men  spent 
the  time  of  our  detention  in  calm  repose.  After  some  time 
our  guides  returned  and  told  me  they  had  found  some  Spo- 
kein  Indians  about  a mile  distant,  who  were  traveling  to- 
wards the  south,  but  had  stopped  to  refresh  their  horses. 
We  proceeded  to  the  place,  and  I engaged  one  of  them  to 
assist  us  in  finding  the  way  to  the  main  trail,  or  to  the  Spo- 
kein  river.  He  was  a tall,  intelligent  looking  man.  He 
mounted  his  horse,  and  set  off  with  such  speed,  that,  jaded 
as  our  horses  were,  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  keep  up 
with  him.  After  going  at  this  rate  more  than  an  hour,  he 
stopped,  ^nd^pointed  us  to  a lake,  and  said  we  should  find 
the  great  trail  on  the  east  side.  Lest  we  should  again  lose 
our  way,  I was  anxious  to  have  him  conduct  us  to  their  vil- 
lage on  the  river,  but  could  not  prevail  upon  him  to  go  any 
farther,  although  I offered  him  a large  compensation.  His 
only,  and  unvarying  answer  was,  that  he  had  done  for  us 
all  that  was  needed,  and  why  should  he  perform  any  un- 
necessary labor  for  us  and  take  pay.  It  appeared  to  be  a 
principle  with  him,  that  it  would  be  wrong  for  him  to  take 
pay  for  what  we  did  not  need.  I was  astonished  at  the  hon- 
esty of  this  heathen,  and  his  steadfast  adherence  to  it,  when 
I remembered  how  many  there  are  in  civilized  lands,  who 
to  be  well  paid,  would  lengthen  a service  to  an  unnecessary 
extent,  and  artfully  deceive  you  to  make  you  believe  it  very 
important.  For  his  faithfulness  and  honesty  I not  only  paid 
him  on  the  spot  to  his  satisfaction,  but  afterwards  sent  him 
a present  of  powder  and  balls,  articles  highly  valued. 

Without  any  farther  difficulty,  we  arrived  at  the  Spokein 
river,  at  four  o’clock,  P.  M.  A few  miles  after  we  left  the 
lake,  we  entered  the  Spokein  woods  which  are  very  exten- 
sive, consisting  of  yellow  pitch  and  elastic  pine,  some  hem- 


SPOKEIN  VALLEY. 


293 


loc,  spruce  and  fir,  together  with  various  shrubbery.  These 
are  the  woods  in  which  Ross  Cox  wras  lost,  about  the  cir- 
cumstances of  which  he  gives  a very  interesting  description, 
but  which,  so  far  as  I have  yet  had  an  opportunity  to  judge, 
contains  far  more  fiction  than  truth.  But  his  multitude  of 
growling  bears,  and  howling  wolves,  and  alarming  rattle- 
snakes, of  which  I have  seen  only  one,  may  yet  come  out 
from  their  lurking  places  in  hostile  array. 

When  we  came  to  the  river,  which  is  about  thirty  rods 
wide,  we  hallooed  a long  time  for  the  Indian  who  keeps  a 
canoe  ferry,  but  without  success.  At  length  two  women 
came  to  the  river,  and  with  uncommonly  pleasant  voices, 
together  with  the  language  of  signs,  the  latter  of  which 
only  I could  understand,  informed  us  that  the  ferryman  was 
gone  upon  a short  hunt,  would  return  in  the  evening,  and 
the  next  morning  at  sun  two  hours  high,  he  would  come 
and  take  us  over.  I never  heard  voices  more  expressive  of 
kindness.  I requested  them  to  paddle  the  canoe  over  to  us, 
and  my  men  would  perform  the  labor  of  ferrying  over  our 
baggage.  They  declined  on  account  of  the  rapidity  and 
strength  of  the  current,  the  river  being  in  full  freshet. 
Therefore  we  had  to  encamp  and  wait  for  the  morning. 

This  is  a very  pleasant,  open  valley,  though  not  exten- 
sively wide.  The  North-west  Company  had  a trading  post 
here,  one  bastion  of  which  is  still  standing.  These  woods 
present  a fine  range  for  the  ornithologist.  The  magpie  is 
seen  in  great  numbers,  flying  from  tree  to  tree,  vociferating 
its  chattering  notes.  Also  thrushes,  warblers,  and  wrens 
are  numerous,  cheering  those  otherwise  solitary  wilds  with 
their  delightful  songs,  grateful  to  the  weary  traveler.  Their 
carols  appear  to  be  designed  to  animate  each  other  in  their 

intervals  of  labor,  while  constructing  their  habitations  so 

26 


294 


SPOKEIN  VALLEY. 


admirably  adapted  for  their  tender  offspring  ; on  an  exam- 
ination of  which,  the  most  infidel  philosopher  must  be  as- 
tonished, and  be  constrained  to  acknowledge,  that  God  has 
manifested  himsef  in  supplying,  instead  of  reason,  a myste- 
rious, unerring  instinct,  always  sufficient  for  the  end  to  be 
accomplished. 

On  the  27th,  about  the  time  in  the  morning  mentioned  by 
the  two  women,  the  Indian  ferryman  came,  and  crossed  the 
river  in  his  canoe.  His  appearance,  together  with  that  of 
his  canoe,  reminded  me  of  iEneas’  ferryman,  who  carried 
him  over  the  Stygian  lake. 

r 

“Canites  inculta  jacet ; 

Sordidus  ex  humeris  nodo  dependet  amictus, 

Cceruleam  advertit  cymbam,  ripaeque  propinquat.” 

After  the  river,  we  crossed  the  valley  of  level  alluvial 
soil,  where  it  is  about  a mile  and  a quarter  wide,  and  the 
east  side  especially  is  very  fertile.  Here  the  village  of  the 
Spokeins  is  located,  and  one  of  their  number  has  commenced 
the  cultivation  of  a small  field  or  garden,  which  he  has 
planted  with  potatoes,  peas,  and  beans,  and  some  other  ve- 
getables ; all  of  which  were  flourishing,  and  were  the  first 
I had  seen  springing  up  under  Indian  industry  west  of  the 
mountains.  Our  ferryman  conducted  us  through  the  valley 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  east,  and  pointed  out  the 
trail  we  should  pursue.  As  we  wound  our  way  up  the 
mountain,  I looked  down  into  the  valley  we  had  crossed, 
and  which  stretches  along  the  winding  river,  and  drew  in 
my  imagination  a picture  of  what  it  will  be,  when  this  peo- 
ple are  brought  under  the  influence  of  Christianity  and  civ- 
ilization. This  section  of  country  presents  less  appearance 
of  volcanic  operation ; and  in  several  places  I found  granite 


VOLCANIC  CURIOSITIES. 


295 


in  its  natural  form  and  position,  resembling  that  found  in 
the  Eastern  States.  When  we  had  arrived  at  the  summit 
of  this  mountain,  we  came  to  a sandy  plain,  several  miles 
wide,  covered  with  yellow  pine  forming  an  open  forest. 
Over  parts  of  this  plain  were  scattered  volcanic  eruptions 
of  singular  formation.  Hundreds  of  regular  cones  of  vari- 
ous magnitudes,  from  those  of  only  a few  feet  in  diameter 
and  height,  to  those  a hundred  in  diameter  and  sixty  feet 
high.  They  all  had  the  same  appearance,  differing  only 
in  magnitude,  and  were  composed  of  broken  granite,  in 
angular  pieces,  from  those  that  were  very  small,  to  six  or 
eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  on  the  outside  were  nearly 
black,  as  if  colored  with  rising  smoke.  They  had  more 
the  appearance  of  being  broken  by  manual  labor,  and  piled 
up  for  future  use  in  constructing  roads  or  wharves,  than  the 
result  of  internal  fires,  and  yet  no  other  cause  but  the  latter 
can  be  assigned.  The  sandy  plain  around  them  was  un- 
disturbed, and  large  pine  trees  were  growing  about  them  as 
in  other  places.  At  the  south  of  these  were  large  rocks  of 
granite,  and  in  one  place  a basaltic  dyke  extending  a hun- 
dred rods  or  more. 

After  passing  this  plain,  we  descended  and  came  again 
to  the  Spokein  river,  which  makes  a bend  around  to  the 
north-east.  In  this  place  the  valley  is  less  extensive,  and 
the  mountains  more  precipitous.  We  again  ascended  the 
mountain,  upon  which  granite  and  mica  slate  prevail,  with- 
out any  volcanic  appearances.  From  this  we  descended  into 
a rich  valley,  which  was  covered  with  a luxuriant  growth 
of  grass,  though  but  just  springing  up.  This  valley  has  the 
appearance  of  having  been  a lake  filled  up  with  mountain 
deposits.  In  the  centre  is  a small  lake,  from  which  pro- 
ceeds a rivulet  passing  out  at  the  south-west.  Leaving 


296 


ANXIETY  OF  THE  SPOKEINS. 


rhis  place,  we  wound  around  a mountain  in  a northerly  di- 
rection, down  a valley  less  fertile  but  more  extensive,  and 
at  four  in  the  afternoon  came  to  a stream  of  water,  coming 
from  the  mountains  at  the  east,  where  our  guides  said  we 
must  stop  for  the  night. 

Near  evening,  several  companies  of  Spokein  and  some 
Nez  Perce  Indians  came  riding  into  the  place  of  our  en- 
campment, and  turned  out  their  horses  with  ours  in  the  half 
wood  and  prairie.  The  Spokeins,  who  had  seen  me  on  my 
way,  and  had  learned  who  I was,  sent  information  out  to  the 
various  hunting  parties,  that  a minister  was  passing  through 
their  cduntry,  and  as  it  was  the  first  time  one  was  ever 
among  them,  they  wished  to  see  him  and  hear  what  he  had 
to  say  to  them.  They  brought  with  them  a good  interpre- 
ter, a young  man  of  their  nation,  who  had  been  in  the  school 
at  the  Red  river  settlement  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountain, 
and  had  obtained  a very  good  knowledge  of  English.  We 
had  public  worship  that  evening  in  the  Spokein  and  Nez 
Perce  languages.  One  of  the  Nez  Perces,  a chief  who 
understood  the  Spokein  language,  collected  his  people,  a little 
to  the  left  of  the  Spokeins,  and  translated  the  discourse  as  it 
was  delivered,  into  the  language  of  his  people,  without  any 
interruption  to  the  service.  This  was  a plan  of  their  own 
devising.  All  the  circumstances  combined  were  to  me  unu- 
sually interesting.  Providences  above  my  control  had  de- 
layed me  three  several  times,  and  thus  given  them  an  oppor- 
tunity to  collect  their  people  and  overtake  me.  Some  of  them 
had  pursued  my  path  a day  and  a half,  and  were  unwilling 
to  return,  being  resolved  to  accompany  me  to  Colvile. 
These  benighted  Indians  manifested  the  same  solicitude  to 
hear  the  gospel  that  others  had  done  before.  And  as  a most 
affecting  proof  that  the  impressions  then  made  on  their  minds 


MILL  RIVER  VALLEY. 


297 


were  not  momentary,  they  went  home  and  erected  in  their 
village  a church,  constructed  of  rude  materials  surely,  but 
designed,  as  they  said,  to  furnish  a place,  that  when  the  next 
missionary  should  arrive,  he  might  stop  and  teach  them.* 
The  morning  of  the  28th  was  cloudy  and  some  rain  fell, 
but  this  did  not  prevent  our  early  departure;  for  it  was  ne- 
cessary to  be  on  our  wray,  as  my  men  had  the  evening  before 
consumed  their  entire  stock  of  provisions,  and,  whatever 
might  occur,  we  could  procure  no  more  until  we  should 
reach  Colvile.  We  could  not  obtain  any  game,  for  being 
advised  by  the  superintendent  at  Walla  Walla  not  to  en- 
cumber ourselves  with  rifles,  we  had  unwisely  left  them 
behind.  After  traveling  a few  miles  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion we  came  to  a very  fertile  valley,  well  adapted  to  culti- 
vation, extending  north  and  south  at  least  fifty  miles,  and  of 

.> 

various  extent  in  width,  from  a half  mile  to  two  miles.  The 
valley  is  an  open  prairie  well  supplied  with  grass,  and  even 
in  this  high  latitude  of  48°,  cattle  could  do  well  through  the 
whole  year,  without  the  labor  of  cutting  hay.  The  hills  on 
each  side  are  covered  with  woods.  As  we  proceeded  down 
this  valley,  we  came  to  villages  of  Indians  who  understood 
the  Spokein  language,  but  belonged  to  another  tribe,  pro- 
bably to  the  Cceur  d’Alene.  Near  their  principal  village 
we  came  to  Mill  river,  which  was  in  full  freshet.  They  had 
no  canoes,  and  we  found  difficulty  in  getting  my  baggage 
across.  But  the  Nez  Perce'  chief  took  part  of  it  upon  his 
shoulder,  mounted  his  horse,  and  swam  over,  and  crossed 
and  re-crossed  until  all  was  upon  the  other  side.  I then 

* The  name  of  this  nation  is  generally  written  Spokan,  sometimes 
Spokane.  I called  them  Spokans,  but  they  corrected  my  pronuncia- 
tion, and  said  Spokein,  and  this  they  repeated  several  times,  until  I 
was  convinced  that  to  give  their  name  a correct  pronunciation  it 
should  be  written  Spokein. 


26* 


298 


FORT  COLVILE. 


crossed  upon  a pole,  which  was  not  the  most  desirable  meth- 
od, but  still  it  was  preferable  to  a cold  bathing  on  horseback. 
After  pursuing  our  course  a few  miles  farther,  I divided  my 
remaining  stock  of  eatables  with  my  destitute  French  and 
Indian  attendants,  leaving  the  anticipation  of  our  next  meal 
to  the  time  when,  after  a long  day’s  industrious  travel,  we 
should  find  ourselves  safely  at  Colvile. 

Towards  the  lower  part  of  the  valley,  through  which  we 
were  passing,  the  land  is  remarkably  fertile.  A missiona- 
ry located  here,  would  have  easy  access  to  the  Spokein,  Sap- 
well,  S^ntou-tou-oulish,  Kettle  falls,  Lake,  Cceur  d’Alene, 
and  Pondera  Indians.  I know  not  of  so  important  a field 
within  two  hundred  miles,  presenting  the  natural  advanta- 
ges of  mild  climate,  good  soil,  and  forests. 

We  arrived  at  Fort  Colvile  late  in  the  afternoon,  after  a 
weary  journey  of  sixty  miles.  The  situation  of  this  fort  is 
on  an  elevated  spot,  about  fifty  rods  from  the  river,  sur- 
rounded by  an  alluvial  plain  of  rich  soil,  and  opening  in 
every  direction  an  extended  prospect  of  mountain  scenery  ; 
and  a half  mile  below  are  Kettle  falls,  above  which  the 
river  spreads  out  widely,  and  moves  slowly,  but  just  above 
the  precipice  it  contracts  into  a narrow  channel,  and  dis- 
appears from  the  view  of  the  spectator  at  the  fort,  until 
seen  winding  its  way  among  rocks  below.  This  establish- 
ment is  built  for  defense  and  is  well  stoccaded,  but  so  friend- 
ly have  the  natives  always  been,  that  no  wars  have  ever 
occurred  among  them.  It  is  occupied  by  some  half  dozen 
men  with  Indian  families,  and  is  well  supplied  with  the 
useful  animals  and  fowls  common  to  farming  establish- 
ments. The  winter  and  summer  grains,  together  with  gar- 
den vegetables,  are  cultivated  with  success  and  in  profusion. 
This  place  does  not  suffer  with  summer  drouth,  like  many 


WORSHIP  AT  THE  FORT. 


299 


other  parts  of  this  country,  and  rains  are  of  frequent  occur- 
rence ; the  seasons  here  are  not  divided,  as  on  the  lower 
parts  of  the  Columbia,  into  wet  and  dry. 

I was  much  disappointed  in  not  finding  Mr.  McDonald, 
the  superintendent  of  the  fort,  at  home.  He  had  left  a few 
days  before  with  a brigade  for  Fort  Vancouver  ; but  the 
kindest  attention  was  paid  me  by  those  who  had  the  charge 
of  the  fort.  I found  here  an  old  man,  who  thirty  years  be- 
fore accompanied  Lewis  and  Clarke  across  the  continent, 
and  had  for  several  years  past  taken  up  his  residence  here. 
He  is  in  the  employ  of  the  fur  company,  and  acts  as  inter- 
preter to  the  neighboring  Indians. 

On  Sabbath  the  29th,  the  people  of  the  fort  who  under- 
stood English,  assembled,  and  we  worshiped  the  God  of 
our  lives,  who  had  protected  us  hitherto,  and  from  differ- 
ent nations  had  collected  us  in  a little  group  in  this  re- 
gion of  the  world.  The  Indians  too  came  about  me  and 
expressed  great  anxiety  to  be  taught  the  revealed  will  of 
God.  They  endeavored  to  make  me  understand  what  their 
former  traditionary  belief  and  practices  had  been,  and  to 
let  me  know,  that  what  they  had  learned  from  me  was  rea- 
sonable and  satisfactory  to  them,  and  that  they  wished  to 
know  all  that  related  to  so  important  and  momentous  a sub- 
ject. But  our  medium  of  communication  was  inadequate 
to  a full  disclosure  of  that  most  interesting  truth,  that  God 
so  loved  the  world  that  he  gave  his  only  Son  to  die  for  its 
redemption. 

Wherever  I have  met  with  the  natives  of  this  distant  re- 
gion they  have  invariably,  with  earnestness  and  importuni- 
ty, asked  the  gift  of  the  gospel  from  the  hands  of  Christians. 
But  how  little  of  the  faith,  and  love,  and  liberality  of  the 
church  is  invested  in  the  most  profitable  of  all  enterprises, 


300 


JOURNEY  DOWN  THE  COLUMBIA. 


the  conversion  of  the  world.  Should  some  one  propose  the 
construction  of  a rail  road  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific, 
and  demonstrate  the  practicability  of  the  measure,  and  show 
that  nature  has  interposed  no  effectual  barrier,  and  that  it 
would  concentrate  not  only  the  whole  internal,  but  also  the 
China  trade,  and  the  stock  would  produce  annually  a rich 
dividend,  how  soon  would  Christians  engage  in  it. 

Monday  the  30th  of  May,  we  commenced  our  journey 
down  the  Columbia.  The  brigade  having  taken  all  the 
boats  from  this  place  on  their  late  passage  to  Fort  Vancou- 
ver, we  were  compelled  to  take  horses  for  Okanagan.  I 
changed  my  guides  for  two  others ; one  a Spokein,  and  the 
other  a Paloose  ; retaining  my  two  voyageurs.  As  we  left 
Fort  Colvile  we  had  a fine  view  of  Kettle  falls.  The  Co- 
lumbia was  in  its  freshet,  and  as  it  rolled  down  in  a broken 
cataract  for  the  distance  of  one  hundred  feet,  it  was  a su- 
blime spectacle.  The  whole  scenery  as  we  proceeded  down 
the  river  was  marked  by  variety,  wildness,  and  romantic 
grandeur,  as  if  the  hand  of  nature,  in  decking  these  remote 
regions,  had  consulted  for  her  own  amusement  some  of  her 
most  playful  and  tasteful  fancies.  The  mountains  around 
are  constructed  on  a scale  of  magnificence,  presenting  al- 
most all  the  varieties  of  elevation,  precipice,  and  forest. 
This  is  the  country  which  by  more  than  one  of  my  prede- 
cessors in  travel,  has  been  celebrated  as  the  abode  of  wolves, 
bears,  and  rattle-snakes,  to  an  extent  that  renders  it  almost 
impenetrable,  by  ordinary  courage ; but  we  found  no  indi- 
cations of  the  presence  of  these  animals  before  this  even- 
ing, when  the  distant  barking  of  a prairie  wolf,  for  once 
interrupted  the  universal  silence  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded. 

After  a few  hours  ride,  on  the  morning  of  the  31st,  we 


LOCATION  OF  MARBLE. 


301 


re-crossed  the  Spokein  river  just  above  its  entrance  into  the 
Columbia.  This  large  valley  is  capable  of  supporting  a 
much  more  numerous  population  than  now  obtain  a subsist- 
ence by  hunting  and  fishing.  The  Indians  residing  here 
afforded  us  very  cheerfully  all  the  assistance  we  needed  in 
ferrying  the  river.  In  the  neighborhood  of  this  place  I dis- 
covered a mountain  of  rich  and  very  beautiful  saccharine 
marble,  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia  river ; 
some  sections  are  pure  white,  while  others  are  beautifully 
clouded  with  blue  and  brown.  It  effervesced  freely  with 
sulphuric  acid.  This  will  in  time  become  very  valuable, 
for  being  upon  navigable  waters,  it  can  be  transported  into 
various  countries.  Several  miles  below  this  marble  loca- 
tion I was  interested  with  the  juxtaposition  of  granite  and 
basalt.  It  was  on  an  elevated  piece  of  land  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  above  the  river.  Near  the  river  there  were 
large  quantities  of  solid  granite  in  its  natural  position,  with- 
out any  appearance  of  having  undergone  an  igneous  in- 
fluence, and  near  by  to  the  left  was  a stupendous  dyke  of 
basalt  rising  two  hundred  feet,  presenting  the  appearance  of 
having  been  thrown  up  by  several  successive  volcanic  erup- 
tions ; the  earth  on  the  back  side  gradually  rising  to  a 
mountain. 

At  this  place  we  left  the  river,  to  save  traversing  a great 
bend,  and  took  a westerly  course,  expecting  to  reach  it 
again  before  night.  We  pu-rsued  our  way  over  an  elevated 
prairie,  destitute  of  wood  and  water.  It  became  evident 
that  night  would  overtake  us  before  we  could  reach  the  river, 
unless  we  should  urge  forward  with  all  the  speed  that  hu- 
manity for  our  horses  would  permit.  Before  five  o’clock 
we  came  near  the  great  gulf  walled  up  with  basalt,  which  as 
we  supposed,  embosomed  the  deep-flowing  Columbia.  Our 


302 


GRAND  COULE. 


next  object  was  to  find  a place  where  we  could  descend  to 
its  shores.  After  ranging  along  two  or  three  miles,  we 
found  a descent  by  a ravine  ; but  to  our  disappointment 
discovered  that  it  was  the  Grand  Coule,  which  was  un- 
doubtedly the  former  channel  of  the  river.  With  consider- 
able difficulty  we  wound  our  way  into  it,  and  found  it  well 
covered  with  grass,  and  by  searching,  obtained  a small 
supply  of  water.  This  quondam  channel  of  the  river  is 
nearly  a mile  wide,  with  a level  bottom,  and  studded  with 
islands.  Its  sides  are  lined,  as  the  river  itself  is  in  many 
places,  with  basaltic  rocks,  two  and  three  hundred  feet  per- 
pendicular. This  Coule  separates  to  the  left  from  the  pres- 
ent channel  of  the  Columbia,  about  one  hundred  miles  be- 
low Colvile,  and  is  about  one  hundred  miles  in  length,  when 
it  again  unites  with  the  river.  The  basaltic  appearances 
are  exhibited  here  as  in  other  places,  furnishing  evidences 
of  eruptions  at  different  periods  of  time.  A peculiarity  in 
this  instance  was  a stratum  of  yellow  earth,  eight  or  ten 
feet  in  thickness  between  the  strata  of  basalt.  Those  who 
have  traveled  through  the  whole  length  of  the  Coule,  rep- 
resent it  as  having  the  same  general  features  throughout, 
while  the  whole  distance  of  the  river  around  to  the  place 
where  it  again  unites,  as  I know  from  personal  observation, 
has  not  the  peculiarity  of  a deep  channel,  cut  through  the 
rocks. 

We  left  the  Grand  Coule  early  on  the  morning  of  the  1st 
of  June,  and  with  difficulty  ascended  the  western  bank. 
Before  noon  my  guides  lost  the  way  to  Okanagan,  and  wan- 
dered far  out  upon  the  wide  prairie  where  there  was  no 
water.  Losing  my  confidence  in  their  knowledge  of  the 
country,  except  on  some  frequented  routes,  I directed  my 
course  for  the  river  ,*  and  perceiving  a snow-topped  moun- 


FORT  OKANAGAN. 


303 


tain  in  the  distance,  I concluded  the  river  must  lie  between 
it  and  ourselves,  and  accordingly  made  it  my  land- 
mark. Pursuing  this  direction  a few  hours  with  rapid 
speed,  we  came  to  a slope  which  gradually  narrowed  into 
a ravine,  and  introduced  us  at  length  to  a spring  of  water. 
Our  thirsty  horses  rushed  into  it,  and  it  was  with  difficulty 
we  could  control  their  excess  in  drinking.  We  followed 
this  ravine,  the  water  of  wffiich  continually  gained  acces- 
sions until  it  became  a large  stream,  with  a rich  valley  of 
alluvial  bottom,  and  united  its  waters  with  the  Columbia,  a 
few  miles  above  Fort  Okanagan,  the  place  of  our  destination. 

Fort  Okanagan  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, above  the  confluence  of  the  Okanagan  river,  from 
which,  and  from  the  Indians  residing  in  its  vicinity,  the 
fort  takes  its  name.  It  was  first  built  by  Mr.  David  Stu- 
art, a partner  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  in  1811. 
There  is  an  open  space  of  considerable  extent  around ; the 
soil  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  hard  and  gravelly,  but  produ- 
cing grass  to  supply  the  cattle  and  horses  belonging  to  the 
station.  A few  fertile  spots  of  alluvial  soil  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  The  Columbia  does  not  appear  to  have  contin- 
ued so  long  in  its  present  channel,  since  leaving  the  Grand 
Coule,  as  to  form  those  extensive  alluvial  bottoms,  which 
exist  in  many  other  parts  of  its  course.  After  leaving  the 
Spokein  woods  there  is  very  little  forest  to  supply  timber 
for  fuel,  fencing  or  building.'  They  are  dependent  on  flood- 
wood  wffiich  descends  the  river  for  their  ordinary  fuel,  and 
the  freshets  generally  furnish  a large  supply.  Not  far  dis- 
tant, at  the  north  there  are  snow-topped  mountains,  yet  the 
country  here  is  not  remarkably  mountainous.  At  this  place 
I had  an  opportunity  to  see  some  of  the  Okanagan  tribe. 
Their  personal  appearance  is  less  noble  than  the  Spokeins, 


304 


OKANAGAN  INDIANS. 


but  they  are  not  less  peaceable,  friendly  and  honest  in  their 
dispositions.  This  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  the  charge 
of  the  fort  in  the  absence  of  Capt.  Ogden,  the  superinten- 
dent, was  committed  temporarily  to  a Frenchman,  and  sev- 
eral of  the  Indians.  This  tribe  with  the  Shooshaps  number 
about  two  thousand  persons.  They  are  much  employed  in 
the  salmon  fishery,  and  large  quantities  are  prepared  by 
drying  for  the  winter’s  use.  Their  country  does  not  abound 
in  game,  and  hunting  occupies  but  little  of  their  time.  The 
climate  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  is 
very  mild  and  salubrious. 

Wishing  to  pursue  my  way  down  the  river,  I hired  two 
Indians  to  assist  my  two  Frenchmen  in  navigating  a bateau 
which  we  obtained  at  this  place  ; and  committed  our  horses 
to  my  Indian  guides  to  take  them  across  the  country  to 
Walla  Walla.  My  confidence  in  the  honesty  of  these  men 
was  without  any  suspicion,  and  I could  trust  them  with  our 
six  horses,  saddles  and  bridles,  to  go  on  any  enterprise  with- 
in their  capacity  to  accomplish.  They  have  so  much  self- 
respect  that  they  would  not  on  any  account  commit  a. 
crime,  which  would  expel  them  from  their  people,  induce 
them  to  seek  concealment,  or  abridge  their  liberties  as  free- 
men. 

We  embarked  in  our  boat,  June  2d,  to  perform  a voyage 
of  four  hundred  miles,  with  the  river  in  full  freshet;  and  its 
strong  current  increased  by  high  water,  secured  to  us  a ve- 
locity beyond  the  ordinary.  We  passed  several  rapids,  and 
dashed  over  the  breaking  surges,  where  the  least  misman- 
agement would  have  caused  inevitable  submersion  without 
any  prospect  of  escape.  But  my  voyageurs  showed  by 
their  adroitness  at  the  oar,  that  they  were  upon  their  favor- 
ite element,  and  their  gayety  and  songs  began  to  revive,  on 


PETRIFIED  TREE. 


305 


being  relieved  from  the  rough,  and  to  them  unpleasant  jour^ 
ney  on  horseback,  over  hills  and  down  ravines,  and  through 
forests.  The  elasticity  of  their  native  character  was  al- 
most immediately  apparent,  and  we  glided  on  with  Celerity* 
making  a voyage  of  one  hundred  miles  before  it  was  neces- 
sary  to  seek  our  safety  for  the  night  on  shore.  The  coum 
try  through  which  we  passed  to-day  was  rather  mountain- 
ous. I saw  many  locations  of  granite  in  its  natural  state, 
but  as  we  proceeded,  volcanic  operations  began  to  appear* 
and  the  granite  exhibited  the  effects  of  intense  heat,  until 
it  wholly  disappeared,  and  breccia,  amygdaloid,  basalt,  and 
lava  took  its  place.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  a perpen- 
dicular section  of  rock,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high ; 
half  way  to  the  top  of  which,  a petrified  tree  of  consider 
ble  magnitude  is  suspended.  It  appears  to  be  retained  in  its 
place  by  having  its  roots  inserted  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks* 
between  the  layers  of  different  eruptions.  How  it  procured 
its  elevated  situation  is  quite  a mystery.  It  could  not  have 
vegetated  there,  unless  at  the  time  of  its  growth,  it  was  sup* 
ported  by  a surface  Upon  which  to  rise  ; and  taking  the  pre- 
sent condition  of  the  rocks,  it  could  not  be  deposited  there 
by  any  floods  of  the  river,  and  certainly  it  could  not  in  such 
case,  intertwine  its  roots  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks.  Gen- 
tlemen of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  others  who  navi- 
gate this  river,  have  amused  themselves  by  shooting  off 
pieces  with  their  rifles,  and  they  assured  me  it  was  wholly 
a petrifaction.  Our  encampment  this  evening  was  a few 
miles  above  the  Long  Rapids,  which  extend  nine  miles. 

On  the  3d,  as  we  approached  the  Long  Rapids  about  fifty 
miles  above  Walla  Walla  they  presented  the  appearance  of 
waves  rolling  under  a strong  breeze  of  wind,  and  their  dis- 
tant murmur  broke  upon  the  stillness  of  the  morning.  To 


27 


306 


LONG  RAPIDS. 


pass  them  without  fear,  is  an  undertaking  which  requires 
courage  and  self-possession ; but  knowing  that  these  inland 
navigators  are  experienced  in  all  the  dangers  of  boating  ex- 
cursions, I had  but  little  drawback  upon  the  pleasure  I an- 
ticipated in  a swift  descent  over  them.  With  much  care 
and  exertion  of  my  men  we  safely  outrode  them,  a distance 
of  nine  miles,  in  forty  minutes.  It  is  this  variety  of  falls, 
cascades,  and  rapids,  together  with  the  ever-varying  scene- 
ry of  nature’s  wildest  and  grandest  forms,  that  keeps  the 
mind  from  wearying,  and  awakens  almost  perpetually  some 
new  emotions  and  energies,  while  performing  a voyage  of 
several  hundred  miles  in  open  bateaux  or  light  canoes.  Not 
unfrequently  in  the  stillness  and  solitude  of  the  river,  when 
it  assumed  its  more  placid  features,  such  a sense  of  security 
is  enjoyed,  that  a resort  to  books,  to  assist  in  a profitable 
disposition  of  time,  is  pleasant. 

My  voyageurs  called  my  attention  to  a red  lurid  aspect 
of  the  atmosphere  in  the  south,  and  said  we  should  have  a 
strong  wind  from  that  quarter.  Their  prognostication  was 
soon  realized.  The  gale  did  not  last  long,  and  the  only 
remarkable  feature  was,  that  when  it  subsided,  it  was  al- 
most instantaneously. 

Through  the  distance  of  about  one  hundred  miles,  which 
we  passed  to-day,  the  country  is  level  and  destitute  of  wood. 
I observed  a bank  of  clay  in  layers  of  diversified  struc- 
ture, such  as  I have  often  noticed.  The  different  sections 
were  of  various  colors  ; some  dusky  red,  some  yellow,  and 
blue,  and  others  white,  making  an  upright  elevation  of  one 
hundred  feet  or  more. 

Salmon  are  ascending  the  river  in  great  numbers,  and 
groups  of  Indians  are  scattered  along  pursuing  the  employ- 
ment of  catching  them.  Wherever  we  passed  them,  they 


ARRIVAL  AT  WALLA  WALLA. 


307 


came  off  in  their  canoes,  bringing  salmon  to  sell,  some  of 
which  were  roasted  in  the  best  manner,  and  served  up  on 
broad  pieces  of  bark,  which  answered  a good  purpose  in 
the  absence  of  plates  ; and  often  large  leaves  of  plants  were 
spread  neatly  upon  the  bark.  Upon  these  we  dined,  with- 
out bread,  vegetables,  or  salt.  My  voyageurs  found  suffi- 
cient employment  in  the  gratification  of  their  appetites,  to 
interrupt  for  a while  their  anecdote  and  song.  We  arrived 
at  Walla  Walla  at  evening,  just  in  season  to  find  shelter 
from  one  of  the  most  violent  thunder  storms,  accompanied 
with  wind,  which  I have  witnessed  in  this  country.  Such 
storms  are  of  rare  occurrence  west  of  the  mountains. 


303 


SNAKE  INDIANS, 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

A summary  of  the  Indians  of  the  Upper  country — names  of  the  tribes 
their  locations  and  numbers — leave  Walla  W^alla  for  Fort  Vancou- 
ver— swift  passage  down  the  river — run  the  Falls — Cascades — dan- 
gerous eddy — arrive  at  Vancouver — steam  boat  excursion. 

Haying  traveled  over  the  most  important  parts  of  the 
upper  country,  and  collected  the  facts  of  its  physical  condi- 
tion, together  with  the  location,  character,  and  condition 
of  the  most  numerous  tribes  of  Indians ; before  leaving 
this  section  of  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
it  may  be  proper  to  give  a connected  summary  of  these  par- 
ticulars. On  the  south  part  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  ad- 
joining Upper  California,  are  located  the  Shoshones  or 
Snake  Indians.  I was  not  able  to  gain  knowledge  of  their 
definite  numbers,  but  the  general  estimate  is  that  they  are 
more  than  ten  thousand.  Their  country  is  decidedly  the 
most  barren,  west  of  the  mountains ; most  parts  being  cov- 
ered with  scoria  and  other  volcanic  productions.  These 
Indians  are  poor,  and  as  indicative  of  their  condition  and 
their  resources,  they  are  called  Snake  Indians,  and  Root- 
diggers.  Some  of  them  go  to  the  mountains  and  hunt  buf- 
falo, and  they  very  generally  resort  to  the  river  in  the  sea- 
son of  fishing.  They  have  a tolerable  supply  of  horses. 
When  they  go  to  Rendezvous  they  make  a great  display, 
advancing  on  horseback,  dressed  in  their  most  fantastic 
manner,  exhibiting  all  their  ornaments  of  feathers,  beads, 
wolf-tails,  teeth  and  claws  of  animals,  arranged  according 


INDIANS— DIFFERENT  TRIBES. 


309 


to  their  notions  of  good  taste.  The  warriors  are  armed, 
hideously  painted,  and  those  who  have  been  wounded  in  bat- 
tle are  very  fond  of  showing  their  scars.  After  coursing 
around  and  through  the  camp  of  Rendezvous  for  some  time, 
they  dismount  and  go  through  the  ceremony  of  shaking 
hands.  I had  also  an  opportunity  of  seeing  many  of  the 
Utaws  at  Rendezvous.  Their  country  is  situated  to  the 
east  and  south-east  of  the  Shoshones,  about  the  Salt  Lake 
and  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Colorado  river,  which  empties 
into  the  gulf  of  California.  They  number  nearly  four  thou- 
sand persons,  and  appear  to  be  a mild  and  peaceable  people, 
honest,  kind,  and  hospitable  to  strangers,  and  affectionate 
among  themselves.  They  live  by  hunting,  fishing,  and 
gathering  roots  and  berries.  Their  dress  is  plain,  and  their 
manners  are  unassuming.  Their  country  being  in  latitude 
about  41°,  has  a fine  climate,  and  good  soil. 

Proceeding  north,  we  come  to  the  country  of  the  Nez 
Perces,  which  has  many  fertile  parts  adapted  to  tillage  and 
is  throughout  a fine  grazing  country.  They  number  about 
two  thousand  five  hundred ; but  they  have  already  been 
often  mentioned. 

The  Cayuses  are  situated  to  the  west  of  the  Nez  Perces, 
and  very  much  resemble  them  in  person,  dress,  habits  and 
morals.  They  are  equally  peaceable,  honest  and  hospitable 
to  strangers.  They  number  more  than  two  thousand  persons. 
Their  wealth  consist  in  horses,  which  are  unusually  fine  and 
numerous ; it  being  no  uncommon  thing  for  one  man  to  own 
several  hundred.  Their  country,  especially  that  about  the 
Grand  Round,  is  uncommonly  fertile,  producing  spontane- 
ously cammas  in  great  abundance,  upon  which,  with  fish  and 
some  game,  they  principally  subsist.  They  express  the  same 

anxiety  to  be  instructed  as  the  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads. 

27* 


310 


INDIANS DIFFERENT  TRIBES. 


The  Walla  Walla  Indians  inhabit  the  country  about  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  and  range  some  distance  below, 
along  the  Columbia  river.  The  number  of  persons  in  this 
tribe  is  about  five  hundred.  In  their  character,  employ- 
ments and  moral  habits,  they  do  not  materially  differ  from 
the  last  named  tribes. 

The  Paloose  tribe  are  properly  a part  of  the  Nez  Perces, 
and  in  all  respects  are  like  them.  Their  residence  is  along 
the  Nez  Perce  river  and  up  the  Pavilion.  They  number 
about  three  hundred.  The  four  last  named  tribes  speak  the 
same  language  with  a little  dialectical  difference. 

North-east  of  the  Palooses  are  the  Spokein  nation.  They 
number  about  eight  hundred  persons,  besides  some  small 
tribes  adjoining  them  who  might  be  counted  a part  of  their 
nation.  I have  so  fully  described  them  that  it  is  unneces- 
sary to  enlarge  upon  their  character.  Their  country  is 
much  diversified  with  mountains  and  valleys,  prairie  and 
woods,  and  a large  part  is  of  primitive  formation,  and  some 
parts  are  very  fertile.  They  denominate  themselves  the 
children  of  the  sun,  which  in  their  language  is  Spokein. 
Their  main  dependence  for  subsistence  is  upon  fishing  and 
hunting,  together  with  gathering  roots  and  berries.  I have 
stated  that  a commencement  is  made  in  agriculture,  which 
it  is  to  be  hoped  will  be  generally  adopted,  so  that  their 
present  precarious  mode  of  living  may  give  place  to  that 
which  will  be  substantial.  They  have  many  horses,  but 
not  so  numerous  as  their  neighbors  farther  south. 

East  of  these  are  the  Coeur  d’Alene  Indians,  whose  num- 
bers are  about  seven  hundred,  and  who  are  characterized 
by  civility,  honesty,  and  kindness.  Their  country  is  more 
open  than  the  Spokeins’,  and  equally,  if  not  better  adapted 
to  agriculture. 


INDIANS — A CHIEF’S  ANECDOTE.  311 

The  country  of  the  Flatheads  is  still  farther  east  and 
south-east,  and  extends  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  They 
are  a very  interesting  tribe  ; dignified  in  their  persons,  no- 
ble, frank,  and  generous  in  their  dispositions,  and  have  al- 
ways shown  a firm  attachment  to  white  men.  They  num- 
ber about  eight  hundred  persons,  and  live  a wandering  life. 
For  subsistence  they  follow  the  buffalo  upon  the  head  wa- 
ters of  Clarke  and  Salmon  rivers,  and  often  pass  over  to  the 
head  waters  of  the  Missouri.  They  have  become  a small 
tribe  by  constant  wars  with  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  though 
they  themselves  are  not  of  a ferocious  or  hostile  disposition. 
Being  averse  to  war,  they  wish  to  settle  upon  their  lands, 
and  are  only  waiting  to  be  instructed  in  the  arts  of  civili- 
zation, and  in  Christianity. 

Their  country  is  mountainous,  but  intersected  with  plea- 
sant, fertile  valleys,  large  portions  of  which  are  prairie. 
The  mountains  are  cold,  but  in  the  valleys  the  climate  is 
mild. 

An  anecdote  was  related  by  a chief  of  this  nation,  which 
illustrates  their  native  character,  and  the  propensity  of  In- 
dians to  imitation.  He  said  the  first  white  men  he  saw, 
was  when  he  was  young.  It  was  summer.  He  said, 
“ These  are  a new  people,  they  look  cold,  their  faces  are 
white  and  red  ; go  make  a large  fire,  and  I will  ask  them 
to  come  and  warm  them.”  In  a short  time  his  people  had 
made  a fire,  and  brought  new  buffalo  robes.  The  white 
men  came  into  his  lodge  and  he  wrapped  them  in  the  robes 
and  seated  them  by  the  fire  that  they  might  be  warm. 
The  robes  slipped  off ; he  replaced  them.  Soon  the  white 
men  made  signs  to  smoke  their  pipe.  The  chief  thought 
they  asked  for  food,  and  brought  them  meat.  The  white 
men  gave  him  the  pipe,  and  he  and  his  people  smoked, 


312 


INDIANS4 — DIFFERENT  TRIBES. 


“ and  after  this  they  loved  smoke,  and  they  loved  the  white 
men,  and  said  they  were  good.” 

The  Ponderas  are  so  like  the  Flatheads  in  person,  man- 
ners, and  character,  that  a particular  description  of  them 
may  be  passed  over.  They  number  about  two  thousand 
tw^o  hundred,  and  live  on  the  north  of  Clarke’s  river,  and 
on  a lake  which  takes  its  name  from  the  tribe.  Their 
country  has  many  fertile  parts,  and  would  soon  be  put  un- 
der cultivation,  if  they  could  obtain  instructors  to  teach 
them  agriculture  and  to  impart  to  them  a knowledge  of  those 
things  which  are  necessary  to  constitute  a happy  and  pros- 
perous community.  Their  language  is  the  same  as  the 
Spokeins’  and  Flatheads’.  The  Cootanies  inhabit  a section 
of  country  to  the  north  of  the  Ponderas  along  M’Gillivray’s 
river,  and  are  represented  as  an  uncommonly  interesting 
people.  They  speak  a language  distinct  from  all  the  tribes 
about  them,  open  and  sonorous,  and  free  from  gutturals, 
which  are  common  in  the  language  of  the  surrounding  tribes. 
They  are  neat  in  their  persons  and  lodges,  candid  and  hon- 
est, and  kind  to  each  other.  I could  not  ascertain  their  num- 
bers, but  probably  they  are  not  over  a thousand. 

There  are  several  other  tribes  of  Indians,  whose  countries 
are  situated  upon  the  waters  of  the  north-east  branch  of  the 
Columbia  river,  resembling  each  other  so  nearly  in  their 
customs,  morals,  manners,  and  mode  of  living,  that  it  is  un- 
necessary to  go  into  a separate  and  particular  description 
of  each.  I will  mention  the  names,  locations,  and  number 
of  some  of  the  principal  tribes.  North  of  the  Cootanies  are 
the  Carriers,  whose  number  is  estimated  to  be  four  thousand. 
South  of  these  are  the  Lake  Indians,  so  named  from  their 
place  of  residence,  which  is  about  the  Arrow  Lakes.  They 
are  about  five  hundred  in  number.  At  the  south,  and  about 


DESCEND  THE  RIVER. 


313 


Colvile,  are  the  Kettle  Falls  Indians,  who  number  five  hun- 
dred and  sixty.  West  of  these  are  the  Sinpauelish,  one 
thousand  in  number;  and  below  these  are  the  Shooshaps, 
having  a population  of  five  hundred  and  seventy-five.  At 
the  west  and  north-west,  next  in  order  are  the  Okanagans, 
numbering  one  thousand  fifty.  To  the  north  and  west  are 
several  tribes,  about  whom  I obtained  no  definite  informa- 
tion. Between  Okanagan  and  the  Long  Rapids  are  detach- 
ments of  Indians,  who  appear  poor,  and  wanting  in  that  man- 
ly and  active  spirit,  which  characterizes  the  tribes  above 
named.  South  of  the  Long  Rapids,  to  the  confluence  of 
Lewis’  river  with  the  Columbia,  are  the  Yookoomans,  a more 
active  people,  numbering  about  seven  hundred.  The  whole 
number  of  the  above  named  Indians  is  thirty-two  thousand 
five  hundred  and  eighty-five.  This  is  probably  a low  esti- 
mate, and  in  the  number,  the  Fall  and  La  Dalles  Indians  are 
not  included,  nor  many  other  numerous  tribes  residing  at  the 
north  and  south  of  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  whose  num- 
bers, I could  not  with  certainty  ascertain.  We  might  more 
than  double  this  number,  and  probably  still  come  below  the 
population  of  the  upper  country. 

The  Indians  to  whom  our  horses  were  entrusted,  came 
in  safely,  as  I expected.  After  resting  on  the  Sabbath, 
we  renewed,  on  Monday  the  6th,  our  voyage  down  the 
river,  having  Fort  Vancouver  for  our  next  destination. 
We  exchanged  the  bateau  Tor  a large  canoe,  retaining 
the  men  who  attended  me  from  Okanagan.  Assisted  by 
the  high  water,  we  made  rapid  progress  until  three  in  the 
afternoon,  when  a strong  head  wind  compelled  us  to  take 
to  the  land  for  the  remainder  of  the  day,  having  gone 
seventy-five  miles.  The  Indians  as  usual  came  to  us  in 
their  friendly  manner,  offering  us  salmon,  and  asking  for 


314 


RUN  THE  FALLS  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 


tobacco,  which  they  esteem  more  highly  than  either  gold 
or  silver.  They  have  been  accustomed  to  traffic  in  this 
commodity,  until  they  expect  it  of  every  passing  traveler. 

The  morning  of  the  7th  was  more  calm,  and  we  got  un- 
der way  at  an  early  hour,  but  with  the  rising  day  the  wind 
again  increased  to  such  a degree,  that  we  were  obliged  to 
suspend  our  voyage.  After  a strenuous  endeavor  to  effect 
a landing  on  the  north,  we  were  at  length,  without  the  power 
of  controlling  our  canoe,  and  in  much  danger,  driven  across 
to  the  opposite  shore  ; and  here  for  the  first  time  in  all  my 
travels,  I found  it  impossible  to  pitch  my  tent,  such  being 
the  strength  of  the  wind,  that  it  would  have  been  carried 
away.  The  canoe  was  drawn  upon  the  shore,  and  wrap- 
ping myself  in  my  blankets  and  buffalo  robes,  I laid  me 
down  in  safety  by  the  side  of  the  canoe.  We  had  here,  as 
at  all  our  other  landing  places,  the  usual  friendly  visit  from 
the  neighboring  Indians. 

The  following  day  we  were  able  to  resume  our  journey, 
and  passed  the  rapids,  which  in  the  tempest  of  yesterday 
looked  so  forbidding.  A little  caution  on  the  part  of  my 
experienced  Frenchmen  in  regard  to  the  numerous  islands 
and  eddies,  enabled  us  to  effect  the  passage  in  perfect  safety. 
In  a short  time  we  approached  the  falls  of  the  Columbia, 
which,  in  low  water,  are  twenty  feet  perpendicular,  follow- 
ed by  raging  rapids  below.  Bousheau,  my  steersman,  pro- 
posed to  run  the  falls,  saying  that  there  was  no  danger  in 
full  freshet,  and  that  it  would  save  a portage.  We  were 
then  passing  a section  of  the  river  where  the  banks  were 
walled  up  with  basalt ; and  while  I was  revolving  in  my 
mind  the  chances  of  safety,  I had  concluded,  that  when 
we  should  come  to  the  great  basin  below,  I would  be  set 
on  shore  ; but  when  we  came  to  the  basin,  the  water  of 


LA  DALLES. 


315 


the  river,  rushing  from  the  mural  shores,  formed  impassa- 
ble breakers  on  the  right  and  on  the  left,  and  onward 
we  must  go,  let  consequences  be  what  they  would.  We 
kept  near  the  middle  of  the  river,  which  was  free  from 
breakers,  though  not  from  high  surges.  Soon,  with  ama- 
zing velocity,  we  were  over  the  cataract  of  the  mighty  wa- 
ters, and  made  our  way  into  a bay  at  the  head  of  the  first 
portage  of  the  La  Dalles.  The  accumulation  of  water  from 
those  stupendous  mountains  above,  was  so  great,  that  the 
narrow  channel  of  the  La  Dalles,  studded  with  basaltic 
islands,  so  obstructed  the  passage  of  the  river,  that  the  falls 
were  almost  lost  in  the  depth. 

Such  were  the  eddies  and  surging  of  the  water  among 
the  rocky  islands  in  the  narrow  broken  channel  of  the  La 
Dalles,  that  we  had  to  make  three  portages.  Our  canoe 
was  so  large  that  twenty  Indians  were  not  too  many  to 
carry  it  safely.  Their  mode  of  carrying  is  to  invert  it  upon 
their  heads  and  shoulders,  and  then  it  is  with  difficulty  and 
danger  that  they  pass  the  steep  and  rocky  ravines.  When 
we  came  to  the  last  portage,  the  Indians  were  not  willing 
to  take  hold  again  unless  we  would  pay  them  in  powder 
and  balls ; and  although  their  demands  were  reasonable, 
yet  our  stores  were  not  adequate  to  meet  them,  and  they 
would  not  perform  the  labor  without  the  required  articles.  I 
engaged  Sopelay,  and  another  influential  chief,  to  induce 
their  men  to  perform  the  labor  of  making  this  last  portage, 
and  promised  that  I would  send  them  the  demand  from 
Fort  Vancouver,  and  for  their  security  I would  give  them  a 
talking  paper.  They  stated  to  their  people  my  proposal,  and 
were  about  to  succeed,  when  Tilki,  the  first  chief,  who  had 
become  familiar  with  an  American  trader,  laughed  at  their 
credulity.  Sopelay,  however,  stated  to  the  people,  that  he 


31 G 


DANGEROUS  WHIRLPOOL. 


had  seen  me  at  the  fort,  and  that  he  heard  me  teach  the  In- 
dians good  things,  and  did  not  believe  I would  deceive  them. 
He  prevailed,  and  the  men  took  hold  of  the  work ; and  in- 
four  hours  from  passing  the  falls  we  were  beyond  the  raging 
water,  where  we  made  our  morning  repast  upon  very  fine 
salmon. 

Our  passage  during  the  remainder  of  the  day  was  pleas- 
ant; we  passed  Cape  Horn  without  difficulty,  and  landed  for 
the  night  twelve  miles  above  the  Cascades.  In  this  high 
state  of  the  water,  very  few  of  the  trees  of  the  submerged 
forest  were  to  be  seen. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th,  we  passed  the  Cascades  by 
hiring  Indians  to  cordelle  the  canoe  down  them,  exclusive  of 
one  short  portage,  the  distance  of  two  miles  to  the  great 
basin,  or  rather  the  great  whirlpool  below.  This  labor  is 
attended  with  some  danger,  and  cases,  though  not  numerous, 
have  occurred  of  the  loss  of  lives  and  property.  As  I walk- 
ed along  the  shores,  and  over  precipices,  I saw  the  wrecks 
of  several  canoes  and  bateaux  strewed  upon  the  rocks.  We 
embarked  upon  the  great  basin,  at  the  lower  part  of  which 
we  passed  into  a rapid,  where  the  main  current  took  a dia- 
gonal course  from  the  north  towards  the  south  shore.  On 
both  sides  of  this  current  there  were  heavy  breakers,  and  as 
the  only  course  of  safety,  we  took  the  middle.  We  had  not 
proceeded  far  before  a large  whirlpool,  with  a deep,  devour- 
ing vortex  formed  almost  directly  before  us,  and  as  we  were 
going  forward  very  swiftly,  it  seemed  impossible  to  avoid  its 
circling  current.  I said  to  my  steersman,  bear  a little  to 
the  right.  “ O don’t  speak  here,”  was  his  reply.  As  we 
approached  the  vortex,  it  filled  after  the  manner  of  smaller 
eddies,  and  we  soon  felt  the  influence  of  its  waters  rolling 
out  from  the  centre,  and  all  our  strength  was  required  to 


A FIELD  FOR  NATURALISTS. 


317 


resist  them,  lest  we  should  be  thrown  upon  the  breakers. 
We  passed  with  the  rapidity  of  the  wind,  and  in  a short  time 
were  upon  the  smooth  surface  of  the  tide  waters  below. 

The  sensations  excited  in  descending  these  Cascades  are 
of  that  peculiar  character,  which  are  best  understood  by  ex- 
perience. The  sensation  of  fear  is  no  sooner  awakened  than 
it  subsides  before  the  power  and  magnificence  of  the  rolling 
surges,  the  circling  vortices,  and  the  roaring  breakers.  Let 
those  whose  dormant  energies,  either  of  body  or  mind,  need 
arousing,  try  the  navigation  of  the  Columbia  in  high  water, 
and  their  powers  will  be  invigorated  for  almost  any  future 
enterprise.  Such  is  the  fascinating  power,  I had  almost  said 
magic  of  these  scenes,  that  those  who  are  accustomed  to  be 
employed  upon  these  waters,  though  far  away  from  home 
and  kindred,  become  attached  to  this  mode  of  life,  and  are 
reluctant  to  abandon  it  for  any  other.  Each  time  the  scenes 
ry  of  these  interesting  Cascades  is  beheld,  new  wonders 
unfold  themselves.  Niagara  itself,  if  we  except  its  unbroken 
fall  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  cannot  bear  a comparison 
with  the  superior  style  of  nature’s  works  here.  Nor  are 
these  things  created  merely  to  attract  our  momentary  admi- 
ration. Science  in  very  many  of  its  departments,  may  find 
subjects  for  investigation. 

While  the  ornithologist  listens  to  the  songsters  of  the  for- 
est, and  in  these  enchanting  solitudes  follows  them  with  his 
eye  as  they  dart  from  bough  Jto  bough;  his  attention  is  ar- 
rested by  the  noble  and  majestic  white  headed  eagle,  as  he 
takes  his  favorite  perch  upon  the  loftiest  heights  of  some 
needle-pointed  rock,  or  the  summit  of  some  leafless  tree,  or 
as  he  darts  from  thence  upon  his  prey ; or  his  attention  may 
be  arrested  by  the  daring  fish-hawk  in  his  rapid  descent  up- 
on the  finny  tribe.  An  amusing  occurrence  took  place  in 

28 


318 


A FIELD  FOR  NATURALISTS. 


my  view.  A fish-hawk  seized  upon  a fish  of  such  magni- 
tude, that  the  contest  for  a long  time  was  doubtful,  as  the 
splashing  water  indicated,  which  should  exchange  its  native 
element.  The  resistance  was  so  great,  that  a disengage- 
ment was  deemed  the  best  policy. 

Here  also  the  botanist,  while  he  forbears  to  ascend  the 
lofty  mountains,  which  for  him  present  an  aspect  of  too 
much  dreariness,  may  retire  into  the  narrow  receding  val- 
leys, or  wind  his  way  over  sunny  hills  in  search  of  new 
genera  of  plants,  or  at  least  new  species,  with  which  to  im- 
mortalize his  name,  and  add  to  the  stores  of  his  favorite 
science. 

The  geologist,  while  he  admires  the  stupendous  monu- 
ments of  volcanic  operations  before  him,  may  also  find 
much  to  interest  him  in  examining  more  minute  formations. 
Along  the  rugged  shores  are  scattered  specimens  of  calee- 
dony,  jasper,  agate  and  cornelian.  He  may  examine  the 
cellules  of  the  immense  masses  of  amygdaloid  ; the  colum- 
nar basalt,  and  the  mountains  shooting  up  their  denticulated 
forms  and  needle-points.  His  attention  will  be  drawn  to  the 
examination  of  the  lava,  breccia,  and  trachyte  ; and  he  will 
be  interested  in  finding  many  dendrolites.  When  he  looks 
at  the  deep  channel  through  which  the  Columbia  river  finds 
its  onward  way  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  if  he  doubts  the  agen- 
cy of  God  in  forming  the  courses  of  the  rivers,  he  may  in- 
dulge his  imagination  in  computing  how  long  it  has  taken 
this  river  to  wear  down  the  immensely  hard  basalt  a thou- 
sand feet ; and  having  ascertained  how  long  it  takes  to 
wear  any  given  depth,  he  may  then  make  his  mathematical 
conclusions  how  long  the  process  has  been  going  on.  But  if 
he  is  a Christian  philosopher,  while  he  admits  second  caus- 
es, he  may  look  up  to  the  great  first  Cause,  and  admire  and 


ARRIVAL  AT  THE  FORT. 


319 


adore;  and  not  regarding  baseless  theories,  may  exclaim, 
“How  wonderful  are  thy  works,  in  wisdom  hast  thou  made 
them  all.” 

As  we  passed  out  of  the  mountain  country  about  the  Cas- 
cades, we  found  the  wide  valley  below  so  inundated,  as  to 
present  the  appearance  of  an  inland  sea.  I arrived  safely 
at  the  fort,  found  my  friends  well,  and  exchanged  cordial 
congratulations. 

Sabbath,  June  12th,  1 preached  to  the  people  of  the  fort, 
and  in  the  evening  had  a third  service,  in  which  as  hereto- 
fore, an  opportunity  was  given  to  those  present,  to  propose 
questions  on  any  subject  of  religion  about  which  they  wished 
information.  I was  particularly  gratified  to  find,  that  du- 
ring my  absence,  public  worship  had  been  maintained,  and 
an  effort  had  been  made  to  bring  the  French  Canadians  to 
attend  upon  religious  instruction.  They  are  assembled 
twice  on  the  Sabbath,  and  a portion  of  scripture  and  a ser- 
mon in  French,  are  read  to  them  by  Dr.  McLaughlin. 

I was  favored  with  an  opportunity  to  send  to  Sopelay  the 
promised  powder  and  balls,  by  Capt.  Black,  a gentleman  of 
the  Company,  who  in  a few  days  was  to  leave  Vancouver 
for  his  station  north  of  Fort  Okanagan. 

On  the  14th,  we  took  a water  excursion  in  the  steam-boat 
Beaver,  Capt.  Home,  down  the  Columbia  to  the  confluence 
of  the  western  branch  of  the  Multnomah;  up  this  river  into 
the  Willamette,  and  then  into  the  middle  branch  of  the 
Multnomah,  and  through  it  into  the  Columbia,  and  back  to 
the  fort.  All  the  low  lands  were  overflowed  with  the  annual 
freshet,  and  presented  the  appearance  of  an  immense  bay, 
extending  far  into  the  country.  The  day  was  pleasant  and 
our  company  cheerful.  The  novelty  of  a steam-boat  on  the 
Columbia,  awakened  a train  of  prospective  reflections  upon 


320 


NAVIGABLE  WATERS. 


the  probable  changes  which  would  take  place  in  these  re- 
mote regions,  in  a very  few  years.  It  was  wholly  an  un- 
thought of  thing  when  I first  contemplated  this  enterprise, 
that  I should  find  here  this  forerunner  of  commerce  and  bu- 
siness. The  gayety  which  prevailed  was  often  suspended, 
while  we  conversed  of  coming  days,  when  with  civilized 
men,  all  the  rapid  improvements  in  the  arts  of  life,  should 
be  introduced  over  this  new  world,  and  when  cities  and  vil- 
lages shall  spring  up  on  the  west,  as  they  are  springing  up 
on  the  east  of  the  great  mountains,  and  a new  empire  be 
added  to  the  kingdoms  of  the  earth. 

The  Columbia  is  the  only  river  of  magnitude  in  the  Ore- 
gon Territory,  and  this  is  navigable  for  ships  but  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  miles  to  the  Cascades ; and  it  is  the  only 
one  which  affords  a harbor  for  large  ships  on  the  coast,  from 
California  to  the  49°  of  north  latitude.  For  bateaux  and 
various  other  light  craft,  the  Columbia  and  its  branches  are 
navigable  a thousand  miles.  The  internal  navigation  could 
not  be  much  improved,  unless  at  great  expense,  by  canals 
around  the  rapids  and  falls,  which  are  so  numerous  that 
ascending  the  river  is  now  difficult.  Still  a considerable 
interior  trade  is  carried  on  by  means  of  these  waters,  and 
the  ingenuity  of  men  on  the  west,  when  it  shall  be  more 
extensively  populated,  will  contrive  facilities,  as  on  the  east, 
for  greatly  improving  the  intercourse  of  remote  and  differ, 
ent  portions  of  this  territory. 


GEOLOGY'. 


321 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Geology. 

Having  remarked  on  the  features  of  the  country  through 
which  I passed,  as  I proceeded,  I shall  now  give  a more 
connected  and  summary  view  of  facts,  the  result  of  my  ob- 
servations in  relation  to  the  geology  of  that  hitherto  unex- 
plored region.  In  remarking,  however,  on  the  observed 
facts,  it  cannot  be  expected  that  I should  be  able  to  give  a 
complete  view  of  the  geology  of  so  extensive  a territory ; it 
being  greater  than  the  whole  of  the  United  States  east  of 
the  Alleghany  Mountains.  The  complexity,  too,  must  be 
considered,  of  plainly  marked  phenomena,  resulting  from 
long  continued  igneous  action,  where  both  ancient  and  com- 
paratively recent  products  ate  so  blended,  that  time  and 
much  experience  alone  can  resolve  appearances,  at  first 
view  inexplicable.  Let  the  reader  also  add  to  this  the  cir- 
cumstances under  which  the  author  was  compelled  to  note 
the  data  of  his  conclusions.  He  regrets  that  in  his  brief 
stay  in  the  country,  where  many  years  are  requisite  fully 
to  investigate  ail  its  interesting  phenomena,  and  in  a field 
so  rich,  he  could  make  but  few  measurements,  and  only 
judge  in  most  cases  by  approximate  modes.  As  to  the  strict 
scientific  accuracy  of  his  statements,  he  deems  it  no  more 
than  just  to  say,  that  while  he  doubts  not  that  the  facts  he 
details  are  worthy  the  attention  of  scientific  men,  and  are 
correct  in  re , so  that  perfect  reliance  may  be  placed  on 
them,  yet  he  feels  himself  to  have  wanted  that  almost  intu- 


322 


GEOLOGY. 


itive  knowledge,  which  he  alone  possesses  who  has  long 
been  a field-laborer. 

With  these  considerations  the  author  presents  the  result 
of  his  observations,  hoping  the  reader  may  find  much  that 
is  valuable  respecting  these  regions  of  the  setting  sun,  re- 
plete as  they  are  with  interest,  arising  from  grandeur  both 
of  scenery,  and  of  developments  of  the  modes  and  effects  of 
the  operations  of  the  great  geological  agents  ; especially  of 
that  element,  which  in  time  past  has  wrought  such  chan- 
ges, and  is  yet  gradually  and  more  unperceivedly  produ- 
cing them  ; where  it  has  played  all  its  frantic  freaks,  and 
then  quietly  left  this  spot  with  so  few  superimposed  materi- 
als, that  well  developed  phenomena  may  be  leisurely  ex- 
amined. 

My  design  is  first  to  give  a general  view  of  the  rocks  of 
Oregon — then  state  a few  facts  in  the  form  of  remarks  or 
descriptions — and  then  add  a brief  catalogue  of  minerals 
found  in  this  Territory. 

After  leaving  the  great  secondary  valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, near  the  Black  Hills,  which  are  a range  of  lesser 
mountains,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  geologist  be- 
gins to  find  rocks  of  the  Carboniferous  Group,  obscurely 
manifest  beneath  the  deep  soil,  and  anthracite  coal  in  loose 
fragments  on  the  banks  of  streams  running  into  the  Platte. 
Among  and  beyond  the  Black  Hills,  the  carboniferous  strata 
are  clearly  seen,  the  coal  “ cropping  out”  and  presenting 
precisely  the  same  features  as  did  the  Wilksbarre  beds  in 
Pennsylvania,  when  I saw  them,  before  they  were  worked. 
Here,  for  several  days,  we  rode  over  rocks,  interspersed 
now  and  then  with  anthracite,  and  having  marks  of  the 
presence  of  iron,  as  is  usual  in  regular  coal  deposits. 

Passing  this,  the  geologist  next  reaches  another  group, 


GEOLOGY. 


323 


either  the  upper  secondary,  or  more  recent  rocks,  lying  at 
the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  I was  inclined  to  believe, 
from  the  fact  that  I was  apparently  geologically  rising,  as 
well  as  really  ascending  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  that 
they  were  the  latter.  Red  Shale,  or  sandstone,  I found  in 
what  are  termed  the  Red  Butes.  Perhaps  this  is  New  Red 
Sandstone. 

Reaching  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  are  a continuation 
of  the  Andes,  depressed  in  Mexico,  Granite  becomes  abun- 
dant, and  other  primary  rocks,  extending  to  an  unknown  dis- 
tance north  and  south,  and  more  than  a hundred  miles  east 
and  west.  This  section,  mostly  covered  with  perpetual 
snow,  affords  ample  space  for  the  study  of  glacial  geologi- 
cal action,  a subject  now  eliciting  much  attention.  The 
valley  through  which  we  passed  remarkably  indicates  the 
overruling  hand  of  Providence,  in  providing  an  easy  pass, 
where  no  serious  obstacle  presents  itself  to  the  construction 
of  a rail-road.  This  and  other  valleys  would  undoubtedly, 
with  facilities  for  observation,  give  equal  opportunities  to 
discover  the  formation  of  this  vast  chain,  as  has  been  done 
in  regard  to  the  great  rocky  ranges  of  the  Eastern  Con- 
tinent. 

Advancing  westward,  and  emerging  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  there  is  found  immediately  at  their  base  Secon- 
dary Rocks  ; but  as  we  approach  the  borders  of  one  of  the 
great  volcanic  furnaces  of  the  world,  they  are  much  bro- 
ken and  tilted  up,  presenting  some  singular  phenomena 
which  I have  mentioned  in  the  journal,  such  as  the  forma- 
tion of  narrow  ridges  with  the  strata  at  different  angles.  In 
some  places  these  dyke-like  ridges  are  nearly  regular  in 
size  and  distance,  as  though  cracked  by  an  upheaving  force, 
and  the  fissures  filled  afterwards  with  earth ; and  in  other 


324 


GEOLOGY. 


places  existing  in  wedge- form  masses,  interspersed  between 
other  rocks,  and  having  other  varieties  of  dislocation.  The 
lithological  character  of  the  tract,  over  which  we  rode  for 
two  days,  corresponds  with  that  of  the  new  red  sandstone 
of  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut.  There  are  deposits  both 
of  the  red  and  slaty  colored  strata — and  their  depth  seems 
to  be  quite  great,  as  is  evinced  by  bluffs.  But,  as  I observed 
no  organic  remains,  my  inclination  to  believe  that  these 
rocks  are  the  new  red  sandstone,  is  founded  only  on  their 
mineral  character,  and  the  fact,  a very  important  one,  that 
they  appear  directly  to  underlay  the  saliferous  rocks,  or  to 
lie  immediately  above  them.  Should  these  rocks,  which 
are  quite  extensive,  prove  to  be  new  red  sandstone,  it  adds 
no  little  to  the  interest  of  the  geology  of  a country  so  rich 
in  other  respects.  Perhaps,  as  red  rocks  of  the  same  kind 
lie  on  each  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  it  may  be  proved 
hereafter,  that  the  range  was  elevated  through  a deposit  of 
shale  or  new  red  sandstone. 

Directly  after  leaving  the  red  sandstone,  and  passing  a 
belt  of  volcanic  operations,  which  also  are  found  among  the 
red  and  slaty  rocks  just  described,  (as  will  be  seen  by  ref- 
erence to  the  Trois  Tetons,  the  Butes,  and  other  conical 
mountains,  as  exhibited  on  the  map.)  Saliferous  Rocks 
are  seen.  Here  is  Native  Salt,  Chloride  of  Sodium , 
and  red,  green,  brown,  and  white  strata  of  indurated 
marl,  agreeing  in  character  with  the  geological  features 
of  the  Bochnia  and  Wieliezka  mines  of  Poland.  These 
rocks  also  occupy  quite  a tract  of  country,  as  we  were 
several  days  in  passing  them,  and  they  seemed  to  reach 
both  north  and  south  of  the  locality  of  rock  salt,  as  is 
proved  by  the  existence  of  the  great  Salt  Lake  at  the 
south ) and  travelers  assert  that  natire  rock  salt  is  found 


GEOLOGY. 


325 


to  the  north,  and  especially  far  to  the  south,  near  the 
Rocky  Mountain  range.* 

We  have  now  arrived  at  Oregon  proper,  and  find  it  a vast 
amphitheatre  of  volcanic  operations,  where  are  exhibited  in 
unexcelled  magnificence,  variety  and  distinctness,  the  pro- 
ductions of  several  periods. 

The  Greenstone,  found  in  connexion  with  the  new  red 
sandstone  and  saline  rocks,  undoubtedly  belongs  to  the 
same  period  as  that  of  other  countries. 

The  Columnar  Basalt,  corresponding  as  it  does  with  other 
similar  eruptions  in  the  eastern  world,  is  probably  cotempo- 
raneous  with  them.  The  same  identity  of  time  may  be 
traced  in  regard  to  the  trachyte,  obsidian,  clinkstone  or 
phonolite,  and  other  products,  after  allowing  for  difference 
of  circumstances  of  pressure,  and  rapidity  of  refrigeration. 
Recent  eruptions  also  have  taken  place. 

The  traces  of  igneous  action,  commencing  near  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  or  mountains  adjacent  to  them,  in  the  sec- 
ondary rocks,  are  evinced  by  the  disturbed  state  of  these 
rocks,  as  already  described,  and  grow  more  and  more  evi- 
dent until  almost  the  whole  region  exhibits  volcanic  pro- 
ducts. In  other  places,  the  Primary  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, or  mountains  west  of  this  range,  first  begins  to  be 
cracked  and  injected  with  dykes,  then  farther  west  termi- 
nates in  the  vast  volcanic  field  of  upper  and  lower  Oregon. 

It  is  in  vain  to  attempt  fully  to  describe  the  volcanic  op- 
erations here  presented.  Mountains  of  amygdaloid,  the 
cavities  of  which  are  mostly  vacant ; volcanic  conglomer- 
ate, detritus,  columnar  basalt,  and  disintegrated  lava,  every 
where  abound,  together  with  other  less  frequent  produc- 

* See  Ures’  Geology,  page  373,  and  Professor  Rogers’  Report  to  the 
British  Geological  Association. 


326 


GEOLOGY. 


tions  ; obsidian,  clinkstone,  pitchstone,  and  minerals  found 
in  the  cavities  of  amygdaloid.  The  tops  of  hills  and  moun- 
tains are  sometimes  spread  out  into  horizontal  plains,  others 
terminate  in  conical  peaks  or  are  rounded  like  domes. 
Escarpments  are  frequently  presented  like  that  in  the  plate 
heading  this  chapter.  Regular  craters,  presenting  them- 
selves in  the  form  of  cones  and  concave  depressions,  are 
often  found  in  plains,  or  capping  the  summits  of  mountains  ; 
most  of  them,  however,  are  more  or  less  obscured  by  the 
lapse  of  time,  but  still  as  marked  as  the  extinct  craters  of 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  The  marked  volcanic  agency,  man- 
ifesting itself  in  these  and  similar  products,  and  completely 
occupying  most  of  the  country  which  we  have  termed  upper 
and  lower  Oregon,  continues  to  be  evident  until  lost  in  the 
waters  of  the  Pacific.  In  some  places  the  Primary  rocks 
seem  again  to  be  found  on  the  western  coast.  Near  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  I noticed  a few  Tertiary  rocks  lying 
in  situ , and  obtained  a few  shells  belonging  to  this  deposit. 
Whether  there  is  on  the  North  West  Coast  a regular  Terti- 
ary basin,  partly  on  shore,  and  the  rest  under  the  ocean, 
remains  to  be  determined.  Queen  Charlottes  island  on 
the  north  is,  at  least  in  part,  primary.  Primary  rocks 
rise  in  various  parts  of  the  country,  and  are  like  islands 
in  the  vast  volcanic  field.  Such  are  the  Salmon  river 
mountains,  and  the  granite  near  the  Spokein  river,  and 
other  places. 

We  have  thus  glanced  at  the  rocks  of  Oregon  as  we  pass 
westward.  In  relation  to  their  extent  in  a northerly  and 
southerly  direction,  I am  unable  to  say  much.  There  is 
evidence  that  igneous  action  has  extended  from  Queen 
Charlottes  island  to  California.  Of  the  extent  of  the  Salif- 
erous rocks,  I have  remarked.  That  they  extend  from  north 


GEOLOGY. 


327 


of  the  locality  where  I found  native  salt,  south  into  Mexico, 
appears  quite  certain. 

Having  remarked  thus  much  in  general  terms,  I will 
proceed  to  give  a few  facts  without  much  order,  some,  if 
not  all  of  which,  might  have  baen  included  in  my  descrip- 
tion of  the  great  changes  in  the  rocks. 

The  plate  at  the  head  of  this  chapter  demands  a more 
definite  explanation  than  has  been  given  in  former  editions. 
It  substantially  describes  a frequent  escarpment  of  volcanic 
rocks,  such  as  is  found  in  nearly  every  part  of  Oregon. 

The  place  designed  to  be  represented  by  it  is  below  the 
junction  of  the  Cooscootske  with  the  Lewis  river.  With 
some  variations  it  is  applicable  to  a mural  escarpment  sev- 
eral miles  below  the  Cascades  on  the  Columbia.  Similar 
mural  escarpments  are  found  in  the  Spokein  country,  and  at 
the  Grand  Coule  or  ancient  bed  of  the  Columbia.  The 
needle-points  on  the  right  of  the  plate  are  found  most  dis- 
tinctly marked  just  below  the  Cascades,  though  they  occur 
at  numerous  other  places.  Indeed  this  is  not  an  unfre- 
quent form  of  basalt  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  first  strata  marked  in  the  plate  above  what  is  intend- 
ed for  the  shore  of  the  river,  is  irregular  massive  amygda- 
loid. In  some  localities  similar  to  that  from  which  the  plate 
is  taken,  there  is  found  a conglomerate  underlaying  this 
strata.  The  next  or  second  strata  of  the  plate,  is  volcanic 
breccia  or  conglomerate,  composed  of  detritus,  and  angular 
fragments  mixed  with  earthy  matter,  and  is  perhaps  what 
some  call  volcanic  tufa.  This  brecciated  layer  is  more  or 
less  hard  and  compact,  varying  however  very  much  in  dif- 
ferent localities,  and  is  in  all  cases  only  a few  feet  thick. 
The  third  strata  is  columnar  basalt,  regularly  crystalized 
in  pentagons  about  two  feet  in  diameter.  In  other  places 


828 


GEOLOGY. 


they  vary  in  size  from  one  to  four  or  more  feet  in  diameter. 
It  is  in  all  the  localities  where  I noticed  it,  closely  jointed, 
with  the  convex  surface  upwards,  like  the  basalt  of  the  Gi- 
ants Causeway.  The  fourth  is  a brecciated  layer.  The 
fifth  on  the  left,  is  columnar  basalt,  and  on  the  right,  amygda- 
loid in  juxtaposition  with  the  basalt.  The  sixth  is  a brec- 
ciated layer.  The  seventh  and  uppermost  is  a semi-crys- 
talized  basalt  on  the  left,  and  needle -pointed  basalt  on  the 
right.  The  semi-crystalized  basalt  very  nearly  resembles 
the  Palisades  on  the  Hudson  river,  and  the  greenstone  of 
East  and  West  Rocks  at  New  Haven,  and  the  more  distinct 
crystals  found  in  Mt.  Tom  and  Mt.  Holyoke.  For  the  latter 
see  Hitchcock’s  Geo.  1st  ed.  page  73. 

In  a description  of  bluffs  and  banks  of  rivers,  where 
there  are  mural  escarpments  similar  to  that  from  which  the 
plate  is  taken,  I have  numbered  from  ten  to  twenty  strata  of 
amygdaloid,  basalt,  and.  brecciated  layers,  which  appear  to 
have  been  thrown  up  in  different  periods,  through  craters, 
fissures  or  chasms,  rising  in  succession  one  above  another. 
In  some  locations  the  lowest  formation  is  pudding  stone ; on 
this  amygdaloid,  varying  in  thickness  from  a few  feet  to 
twenty  or  thirty  ; and  then  above  this  a stratum  of  angular 
fragments  of  basalt  and  amygdaloid,  frequently  intermixed 
with  lava,  which  I have  termed  the  brecciated  layer.  This 
strata  generally  appears  to  have  been  exposed  for  a period 
to  atmospheric  agencies,  until  in  some  degree  decomposed, 
and  upon  this  the  alternating  strata  as  described  above,  in- 
dicating so  many  different  eruptions ; the  whole  series  rising 
from  fifty  to  several  hundred  feet.  The  brecciated  layers 
are  only  a few  feet  in  depth,  and  appear  to  have  been  for  a 
long  period  the  surface,  after  which  a new  eruption  has 
again  overspread  the  whole.  In  one  section  of  the  high 


BASALTIC  FORMATIONS  o.x  the  COLUMBIA  RIVER 


GEOLOGY. 


329 


walls  of  the  Grand  Coule,  far  up  the  sides,  instead  of  the 
breccia  is  presented  a depth  of  yellow  earth  of  six  or  eight 
feet,  and  upon  this  several  strata  of  basalt  and  amygdaloid, 
as  above  described,  in  like  manner  exhibiting  proof  that  this 
section  for  a long  time  constituted  the  surface.  Thus  it 
appears  that  the  internal  fires  have  had  long  intervals  of  re- 
pose, and  then  have  again  sent  forth  their  volcanic  sub- 
stances. The  probability  is,  that  they  were  thus  in  opera- 
tion for  centuries,  but  with  a few  exceptions,  have  ceased 
for  centuries  past,  so  that  time  has  been  given  for  atmos- 
pheric agencies  to  decompose  the  volcanic  productions,  suf- 
ficiently to  form  a soil  covering  most  parts  of  the  country. 
The  enquiry  naturally  arises,  whether  it  may  not  be  on  ac- 
count of  the  great  internal  fires  of  this  country,  that  the 
temperature  is  so  much  warmer  on  the  west  side  of  the 
mountains  than  on  the  east;  for  it  is  an  interesting  fact,  that 
the  eastern  side  of  North  America,  in  given  parallels  of 
latitude,  is  the  coldest,  while  the  western  in  the  same  par- 
allels, is  the  warmest  part  of  the  world.  And  may  not  this 
arise  from  the  comparative  recency,  as  well  as  extent  and 
depth  of  the  volcanic  operations  which  have  pervaded  this 
whole  region  of  the  setting  sun.*  The  length  of  time,  which 
immense  masses  of  lava  and  other  volcanic  matter  retain 
heat,  is  well  known,  and  needs  no  remark.  May  not  the 
climate  thus  be  affected  in  Oregon  ? 

Among  other  localities  of  columnar  basalt,  the  columns 


* By  reference  to  the  annexed  meteorological  table  it  will  be  seen, 
from  observations  taken  between  the  45th  and  46th  degrees  of  north 
latitude,  that  in  th^  winter  of  1835 — 6,  the  greatest  cold  was  but  10° 
below  the  freezing  point,  and  this  for  three  mornings  only — and  du- 
ring the  month  of  March  there  were  but  two  mornings  in  which  there 
was  any  frost. 


29 


330 


GEOLOGY. 


of  which  are  regular  crystalized  pentagons,  a distinguished 
one  is  on  the  high  lands  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Snake 
and  Spokein  rivers.  The  formations  of  this  locality  have 
many  interesting  characteristics,  as  described  on  page  290. 
Another  below  the  Cascades  of  the  Columbia,  where  the 
regular  pentagonal  columns  wall  up  the  north  side  for  the 
distance  of  half  a mile.  Here  are  also  found  all  the  va- 
rieties of  volcanic  productions; — volcanic  peaks,  as  diver- 
sified in  their  forms  as  they  are  numerous,  being  conical, 
denticulated,  and  needle-pointed ; varying  in  magnitudes, 
and  rising  one  above  another  from  ten  feet  to  fifteen  hun- 
dred feet.  These  occur  almost  entirely  upon  the  south 
side.  There  are  also  numerous  islands  of  basalt  in  the 
Columbia  river  and  its  branches,  elevated  often  much 
above  high  freshet  water.  These  are  numerous  iu  the  La 
Dalles,  and  in  the  ancient  bed  of  the  Columbia,  or  Grand 
Coule.  These  islands  are  the  same  in  form  and  substance 
as  the  dykes  which  exist  in  various  parts  of  the  country. 
There  is  something  similar  to  these  Needles  in  what  I 
have  termed  the  Pillars,  where  one  or  two  such  needles 
occur  alone,  and  rise  some  hundred  feet.  They  are  basalt, 
and  so  hard  and  comparatively  smooth,  that  I can  account 
in  no  other  way  for  their  production,  than  that  they  are 
dykes  that  have  been  injected  into  soft  rock,  or  soil,  which' 
has  since  been  removed  by  other  agencies.  The  most  re- 
markable instance  of  this  is  the  PillarRock  at  the  lower 
part  of  the  rapids,  below  the  Cascades,  at  the  head  of  the 
tide  water  of  the  Columbia.  It  is  about  five  hundred  feet 
high  ; and  is  perpendicular  on  the  river  side,  and  nearly 
so  on  the  other  sides  ; and  is  wholly  isolated  upon  a nar- 
row strip  of  bottom  land,  with  a small  base,  and  its  appear- 


GEOLOGY. 


331 


ance  resembles  a vast  monument.  Another  such  needle  is 
found  in  the  river  near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and 
standing  alone  makes  a very  conspicuous  object. 

Another  result  of  volcanic  agency  is  seen  in  the  Primary 
rocks,  which  are  cracks  or  fissures,  through  which  gaseous 
products  have  escaped,  without  forming  a crater,  and  indeed 

(without  ejecting  any  igneous  solid  matter.  One  locality  of 
this  kind  presents  a result  somewhat  peculiar.  It  is  on  ele- 
vated land  near  the  Spokein  river.  Here  are  hundreds  of 
regular  cones,  varying  from  a few  feet  in  diameter  and 
height,  to  a hundred  or  more  in  diameter  at  their  base,  and 
fifty  or  sixty  feet  high.  They  are  made  up  of  angular 
fragments  of  granite,  from  an  inch  to  six  or  eight  inches  in 
size,  and  stand  on  a sandy  plain  now  covered  with  yellow 
pine,  apparently  disturbed  only  at  the  places  where  these 
cones  have  broken  through  it.  At  a short  distance  south 
was  granite  in  situ . Beside  these  cones  was  a dyke  visible 
a hundred  rods  or  more,  the  only  other  evidence  of  a dis- 
turbing force.  These  piles  of  fragments  seem  to  have  been 
made  by  the  escape  of  steam  or  gas,  for  they  appear  as  if 

1 smoked  by  a fire  from  within  the  cones.  The  Salmon  river 
mountains  afford  another  example  similar  to  this.  An  ir- 
regular circular  space  of  a hundred  acres  or  more  is  cov- 
ered with  immense  quantities  of  granite  broken  into  cubical 
and  angular  fragments,  as  though  prepared  for  Macadami- 
zing the  future  turnpikes  of  Oregon. 

These  mountains,  though  mere  islands  of  mica  slate  and 
granite  in  the  great  volcanic  field,  are  quite  extensive,  and 
in  addition  to  the  breaking  up  of  the  granite  by  igneous 
forces,  are  also  perforated  by  vents  or  chimneys,  through 
which  lava  has  escaped.  One  of  the  highest  points  of  the 
mountains  which  lay  in  my  route,  was  one  of  these.  It  is 


332 


GEOLOGY. 


a granite  mountain  with  the  top  capped  by  a volcanic  cone, 
rising  like  an  immense  pyramid.  The  passage  in  some 
places  of  granite  into  basalt,  is  easily  traced,  and  the  first 
igneous  appearance  is  not  a change  of  the  structure,  but 
multiplied  fractures  increase,  until  you  find  the  granite  bro- 
ken into  large  fragments,  and  these  diminishing  in  size,  until 
they  disappear  in  the  distinct  characteristics  of  volcanic 
agency,  in  which  it  is  changed  into  a substance  resembling 
trachyte ; if  it  has  not  become  trachyte  itself,  while  in  situ. 
Smaller  sections  of  granite  are  scattered  over  the  country 
in  forms  of  less  dimensions,  protruding  from  the  earth  ; but 
these  are  of  somewhat  rare  occurrence. 

We  have  said  that  recent  igneous  action  has  taken  place. 
A well  authenticated  instance  occurred  in  August  1831. 
There  was  at  this  time  at  Fort  Vancouver  and  vicinity,  an 
uncommonly  dark  day  which  was  thought  to  have  been 
caused  by  an  eruption  of  a volcano.  The  whole  day  was 
nearly  as  dark  as  night,  except  a slight  red,  lurid  appear- 
ance, which  was  perceptible  until  near  night.  Lighted  can- 
dles were  necessary  through  the  day.  The  atmosphere  was 
filled  with  ashes  which  were  very  light,  like  the  white  ashes 
of  wood ; all  having  the  appearance  of  being  produced  by 
great  fires,  and  yet  none  were  known  to  have  been  in  any 
part  of  the  whole  region  around.  The  day  was  perfectly 
calm,  without  any  wind.  For  a few  days  after,  the  fires 
out  of  doors  were  noticed  to  burn  with  a bluish  flame,  as 
though  mixed  with  sulphur.  There  were  no  earthquakes. 
By  observations  which  were  made  after  the  atmosphere  be- 
came clear,  it  was  thought  the  pure,  white,  perpetual  snow 
upon  Mount  St.  Helens  was  discolored,  presenting  a brown 
appearance,  and  therefore  it  was  concluded,  that  there  had 
been  upon  it  a slight  eruption.  The  Indians  say  they  have 


GEOLOGY. 


333 


seen  fires  in  the  chasms  of  Mount  Flood.  Tilk!,  the  first 
chief  of  the  La  Dalles  Indians,  who  is  a man  of  more  than 
ordinary  talents,  said  he  had  frequently  seen  fires  in  the  fis- 
sures of  rocks  in  the  last  named  mountain.* 

Though  I have  improved  every  opportunity  which  has 
been  presented  to  make  observations,  and  have  also  made 
many  enquiries  of  men  who  have  traveled  extensively  and 
for  a long  time  in  different  parts  of  this  country,  some  of 
whom  are  men  of  science,  yet  no  evidence  of  fossil  remains 
have  been  noticed,  with  the  exception  of  a very  few  speci- 
mens. 1 saw  a small  shell,  a Turritella,  which  was  found  in 
a mountain  south  of  Mount  Hood,  in  the  Callapooa  country. 
Also  a few  miles  up  the  Columbia  river,  on  the  south  shore 
of  the  bay,  I found  some  very  large  petrified  bivalve  shells, 
embedded  in  calcarious  sandstone  of  the  Tertiary  formation. 
The  largest  specimens  which  I took,  measure,  longitudinal- 
ly, four  and  a half  inches  from  the  hinge,  and  transversely, 
five.  They  are  very  perfect,  beautifully  scalloped,  and 
have  all  the  lustre  of  living  shells. 

Since  the  channel  of  the  Columbia,  in  many  parts,  is 
walled  up  on  its  sides  and  studded  with  islands  of  basaltic 
rocks,  rising  in  perpendicular  height  from  twenty  to  four 
hundred  feet ; the  question  forces  itself  upon  the  mind,  what 
agency  formed  the  channel  of  the  Columbia  and  other  rivers 
flowing  through  ridges  and  mountains  of  hard  basalt?  Un- 
doubtedly the  action  of  water  has  worn  the  rock  very  con- 
siderably and  effected  changes,  but  perhaps  by  no  principle 
of  its  action  can  it  be  supposed,  that  it  has  'produced  so  long 
and  so  deep  a channel,  as  the  one  through  which  the  river 


* Since  the  publication  of  the  above  in  other  editions,  I have  been 
credibly  informed  that  lava  was  ejected  at  that  tim.e  from  Mount  St0> 
Helens. 


29* 


334 


GEOLOGY. 


flows,  and  through  such  solid  rock  formations,  differing  but 
little  from  iron  in  hardness.  That  the  channels  of  rivers 
owe  their  existence  to  other  causes  than  the  action  of  water, 
is  no  new  idea.  Indeed  very  many  are  now  described  as 
formed  otherwise.  In  relation  to  the  channels  of  the  Con- 
necticut and  its  branches,  see  Prof.  Hitchcock’s  Geo.  page 
167,  1st  edit.  While  I believe  that  Providence  operates  by 
means,  yet  I doubt  not  there  are  phenomena  which  are,  and 
ever  may  remain  unresolved.  While  conversing  in  relation 
to  the  channel  of  the  Columbia  with  some  literary  gentle- 
men who  had  frequently  passed  up  and  down  this  river,  after 
several  theories  were  proposed,  none  of  which  could  bear 
the  test  even  of  probability,  one  of  them  remarked,  he  had 
been  reminded  of  his  boyish  sports,  when  he  had  dammed 
up  water,  and  then  with  his  finger  drawn  a channel  through 
the  sand  for  the  water  to  run  ; so  it  seemed  to  him  that  God 
had  drawn  a channel  for  the  Columbia. 

If  we  do  not  keep  in  view  the  overruling  hand  of  God  as 
a landmark  in  our  investigations,  but  look  to  nature,  at 
work  in  her  great  laboratory,  the  earth,  as  our  only  guide 
to  teach  us  precisely  how  the  earth  was  formed,  we  shall, 
at  least,  be  in  danger  of  wandering  into  mazes  from  which 
we  shall  not  be  able  to  extricate  ourselves. 

The  condition  of  the  country  on  the  western  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  differing  as  it  does  in  the  species  of  its 
animals,  birds,  and  plants,  from  that  of  the  eastern  side, 
gives  us  a view  which  shows  what  may  be  the  truth  in  re- 
lation to  regions  of  the  earth  now  buried,  and  which  per- 
haps are  regarded  as  belonging  to  different  Periods,  though 
in  fact  contemporaneous.  Yet  in  all  such  cases  marks  of  iso- 
chronism,  or  the  want  of  it,  doubtless  could  be  found,  and 
with  proper  care  would  convince  the  experienced  geologist 


GEOLOGY. 


335 


of  their  diversity  or  identity  in  time.  Compare  the  two  sides 
of  North  America  as  they  now  are,  and  notice  the  difference 
which  exists  in  their  animals  and  productions.  Let  now  the 
whole  of  the  northern  part  of  this  continent  be  submerged, 
and  after  a long  time  be  again  elevated  to  its  present  position, 
and  let  future  generations  examine  its  fossil  remains,  and  by 
the  rules  very  generally  laid  down,  would  they  not  conclude 
that  the  section  on  the  east  side,  and  that  on  the  west  side  of 
the  mountains,  indicate  two  different  periods  of  submersion, 
and  that  there  was  a long  intermediate  period  of  tranquility 
between  them  ? Would  not  the  different  genera  and  species 
of  vegetables  and  animals  lead  to  this  conclusion?  Would 
they  not,  from  the  evident  difference  of  temperature  of  cli- 
mate in  the  same  latitudes  on  the  east  and  on  the  west,  con- 
clude, if  there  was  not  a careful  search  made  for  other 
marks  to  show  disparity  or  identity  of  time,  that  the  west- 
ern section  was  submerged,  at  a period  when  the  earth 
was  much  warmer  than  at  a period  when  the  eastern  section 
was  submerged  ? This  would  be  a rational  and  legitimate 
conclusion  from  the  rule,  that  in  strata  of  the  same  class, 
dissimilar  organic  remains  belong  to  a different  period  of 
time,  and  were  deposited  under  a different  condition  of  the 
globe.  And  the  gigantic  balsam  firs,  found  in  the  west  and 
not  found  in  the  .east,  would  as  clearly  prove  a different  cli- 
mate in  the  same  latitude,  and  therefore  a different  period 
of  submersion,  as  the  gigantic,  ferns  prove  a different  tem- 
perature of  the  earth,  and  of  course  a different  period  of 
time,  in  which  they  were  deposited. 

On  the  west  side,  the  enormous  balsam  firs,  measuring 
from  five  to  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  between  one  and  two 
hundred  feet  in  height,  would  be  found  so  numerous  as  to 
constitute  whole  forests.  Also  the  alder  of  various  diame- 


336 


GEOLOGY. 


ters,  from  the  small  to  those  of  two  feet,  and  proportionably 
tall  ; and  the  rush  varying  from  four  to  ten  feet  long,  and 
proportionably  large.  While  the  fir,  the  alder,  and  rush, 
would  be  found  on  the  east  side,  they  would  be  mere  dwarfs 
in  comparison  with  those  on  the  west,  and  also  very  sparse. 
And  many  genera  of  trees  and  plants  would  be  found  on 
the  one  side,  which  would  not  be  found  on  the  other.  On 
the  west  there  would  be  no  walnut,  chestnut,  sugar  maple, 
elm,  and  many  other  kinds  of  trees.  And  of  animals,  there 
would  not  be  found  any  of  the  present  fossils  of  the  east,  nor 
the  ox,  the  ass,  the  swine,  nor  common  sheep — the  buffalo 
would  be  found  east  and  in  the  mountains,  but  hardly  be- 
yond. To  what  strange  conclusions,  without  great  care 
and  close  examination,  should  we  come,  if  such  data  simply 
were  received  ! If  such  is  now  the  difference  of  vegeta- 
bles and  animals,  between  the  country  on  the  east,  and  the 
country  on  the  west  of  our  continent,  and  in  the  same  lati- 
tude, may  not  mistakes  be  made  in  regard  to  different  for- 
mations, and  different  periods  of  time  in  which  they  have 
taken  place.  Especially  when  periods  are  so  remote,  and 
the  minute  exploration  of  the  earth  confined  to  so  small 
limits. 

Far  the  greatest  part  of  the  soil  of  Oregon  is  formed  from 
decomposed  lava  and  other  like  substances,  reduced  by  at- 
mospheric agencies,  which  forms  a fine  rich  black  mold. 
Some  parts,  however,  are  in  a different  condition  ; such  as 
the  great  desert  of  the  Shoshones  or  Snake  country,  which 
lies  between  two  ranges  of  mountains,  and  extends  three 
hundred  or  more  miles  in  a southeasterly  direction,  with 
an  average  width  of  about  one  hundred  miles.  This  desert, 
occupying  as  it  does  so  many  square  miles,  is  to  a great 
extent  covered  with  scoria  and  other  volcanic  matter,  which 


GEOLOGY. 


337 


from  their  nature  renders  it  a barren  region.  Other  tracts 
of  country  are  argillaceous.  In  several  localities,  escarp- 
ments of  clay,  diversified  in  structure,  are  presented.  The 
layers  are  from  a few  inches,  to  twenty  feet  in  thickness. 
Their  colors  are  dusky  red,  brown,  blue,  green,  yellow, 
and  in  some  instances  pure  white,  and  not  unfrequently 
more  or  less  indurated.  Still,  other  tracts  are  calcarious  ; 
and  some  parts,  especially  near  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are 
covered  with  a silicious  sand,  mixed  with  volcanic  detritus ; 
while  few,  and  only  few  parts  of  the  country  afford  vegeta- 
ble mold. 

By  reference  to  the  map  between  Okanagan  and  Walla 
Walla,  the  dotted  line,  as  will  be  seen,  describes  the  Grand 
Coule.  By  some  cause  the  Columbia  has  been  turned  from 
its  ancient  bed,  and  made  to  take  a new  and  more  circui- 
tous course.  The  old  channel  has  islands  rising  above  what 
was  once  the  level  of  the  water  ; and  as  previously  men- 
tioned, high  mural  escarpments  are  found  on  its  sides. 

Another  fact  worthy  to  be  mentioned,  is  the  subsidence 
on  the  Columbia.  It  is  twenty  or  more  miles  long,  and 
about  a mile  wide.  See  page  141. 

What  I suppose  to  be  another  subsidence  occurs  on  the 
summit  level  which  divides  the  waters  of  the  Snake  and 
Spokein  rivers.  See  page  290. 

Rivers  are  found  which  disappear  and  again  reappear 
from  under  volcanic  products,*  which  is  no  new  phenomena 
in  other  volcanic  countries.  Two  such  rivers  are  put  down 
on  the  map  south  of  Henry’s  Fork. 

Limestone  does  not  abound  here ; indeed  it  is  questiona- 
ble whether  it  exists  except  in  very  detached  and  small 
quantities.  One  location  of  magnesian  limestone,  I observ- 
ed in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Sulphur  Spring,  which  I have 


338 


GEOLOGY. 


already  described.  The  lime  used  at  Fort  Vancouver,  is 
made  of  rock  coral,  imported  for  ballast  in  vessels  return- 
ing from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Sul- 
phur Spring  was  a quantity,  though  not  very  extensive,  of 
gypsum.  The  only  marble  I noticed  was  a mountain  situ- 
ated a short  distance  below  the  confluence  of  the  Spokein 
with  the  Columbia.  In  parts  which  I examined,  I discover- 
ed it  to  be  saccharine  white,  and  variegated  blue.  A spe- 
cimen of  the  first  I have  preserved.  Situated  as  it  is  on  a 
navigable  river,  it  will  most  probably  become  in  time  a 
source  of  wealth. 

In  the  region  of  Pierre’s  Hole,  and  still  farther  west,  there 
is  clinkstone  of  marked  and  distinctive  character,  in  great 
abundance,  and  in  the  same  vicinity  obsidian  in  large  quan- 
tities. From  the  dark  color  of  this,  and  also  of  basalt  gen- 
erally, I detected  the  presence  of  augite.  Obsidian  is  found 
in  very  many  places  throughout  the  country,  and  towards 
the  ocean,  in  small  quantities,  it  is  a resinous  white. 

Lava  is  abundant  in  many  places,  in  all  the  varieties  of 
color  in  which  it  is  usually  found,  sometimes  dusky  red, 
yellowish,  gray,  and  black,  of  different  degrees  of  hardness 
and  gravity,  some  being  compact,  some  cellular,  and  often 
so  light  as  to  float  upon  water.  Trachyte  is  also  found 
among  the  varieties  of  lava. 

Most  of  the  varieties  of  the  precious  stones,  such  as  cal- 
cedony,  agate,  jasper,  and  cornelian,  are  found  upon  the 
shores  of  the  Columbia,  Willamette,  and  the  large  branches 
of  these  rivers.  While  they  vary  in  size,  forms,  and  colors, 
many  of  them  are  very  pure  and  beautiful,  and  might  be 
improved  to  great  brilliancy  in  the  hands  of  the  artist.  Por- 
phyry of  different  textures  and  quality  is  frequently  met  with, 
gome  of  which  resembles  the  precious  stones  in  fineness. 


GEOLOGY. 


330 


I saw  no  anthracite  coal  after  leaving  the  region  of  the 
Black  Hills  on  the  east  of  the  mountains;  bituminous  coal, 
of  which  I saw  a quantity,  is  obtained  from  a locality  near 
Pugets  Sound,  and  brought  for  use  to  Fort  Vancouver. 

It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  Mineral  Rock  Salt  exists  in 
its  native  state,  in  a section  of  mountains  on  the  south  side 
of  the  Salmon  river,  before  entering  the  Salmon  river  moun- 
tains. It  crops  out  from  the  side  of  a mountain,  a little 
above  the  base.  I saw  the  mine  and  examined  specimens  of 
it,  and  took  of  it  for  future  use.  It  is  pure  and  white,  and 
contains  less  of  the  water  of  crystalization  than  common 
salt.  The  geological  formations  in  the  immediate  vicinity, 
so  nearly  resemble  those  described  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  mineral  salt  mines  of  Poland,  as  to  induce  the  belief  that 
it  exists  in  great  abundance.  It  was  peculiarly  grateful  to 
me  in  the  circumstances  in  which  l was  placed,  and  the  best 
testimony  I can  give  to  the  quality  is,  that  I found  it  very 
useful  while  compelled  to  subsist  on  game. 

Salt  is  also  found  in  a crystalized  state  upon  the  shores  of 
the  great  Salt  Lake,  the  waters  of  which  are  so  strongly 
impregnated,  that  large  quantities  are  deposited.  How  wise 
and  kind  is  the  disposition  of  the  products  of  nature,  and 
how  well  adapted  to  the  wants  of  all  his  creatures  has  the 
hand  of  a beneficent  Father  distributed  his  blessings  ; and 
here,  at  so  great  a remove  from  all  the  facilities  of  com- 
merce, He  has  laid  up  in  store  one  of  the  most  necessary 
and  useful  articles  of  domestic  use. 

But  few  Mineral  Springs  have  as  yet  been  discovered. 
The  most  remarkable  are,  the  Soda  fountain  on  Bear  river, 
about  forty-five  miles  north  of  Salt  Lake,  remarkable  for  the 
quantity  of  carbonic  acid  gas  which  is  evolved,  but  not  hav- 
ing been  analyzed,  its  particular  mineral  properties  are  not 


340 


GEOLOGY. 


ascertained,  and  the  general  remark  only  can  be  made,  that 
it  greatly  resembles  the  Saratoga  waters  ; — the  Sulphur 
Spring  to  the  south  of  the  Trois  Tetons , on  a branch  of 
Henry’s  fork,  around  which  large  quantities  of  pure  sulphur 
are  deposited,  and  from  which  sulphureted  hydrogen  escapes, 
and  its  annoying  properties  are  perceptible  more  than  eighty 
rods  distant ; — and  the  hot  springs  in  the  great  range  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  some  of  which  are  said  to  furnish  the 
mountain  men  a convenient  place  to  boil  their  food. 

Sulphate  of  magnesia,  (epsom  salts)  purely  native,  exists 
in  immense  quantities  in  and  on  both  sides  of  the  mountains. 
Lakes  or  pools,  which  the  heat  of  summer  principally  evap- 
orates, abound  in  this  region,  exhibiting  crystalized  salts  in 
great  quantities.  Spicular  crystals  of  the  same  salt  shoot 
up  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  effloresced  to  such  a de- 
gree as  to  present  the  appearance  of  fields  whitened  with 
snow. 

No  indications  of  Metalic  Ores  have  yet  been  noticed  in 
any  part  of  Oregon  Territory. 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


341 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

General  remarks — Meteorological  table. 

Having  explored  the  most  important  parts  of  this  terri- 
tory, and  gained  all  the  information  within  my  reach,  as  to 
the  several  objects  proposed  in  my  instructions  from  the 
Board  of  Foreign  Missions;  and  especially  having  ascer- 
tained to  my  entire  satisfaction  two  most  prominent  facts* 
namely,  the  entire  practicability  of  penetrating  with  safety 
to  any  and  every  portion  of  the  vast  interior,  and  the  dispo- 
sition of  the  natives  in  regard  to  my  mission  among  them* 
it  remained  that  the  most  feasible  and  expeditious  mode  of 
returning  should  next  be  consulted.  I could  expect  to  ac~ 
v quire  but  little  additional  knowledge  in  traversing  the  route 
to  Rendezvous  ; and  the  necessary  delay  of  several  months, 
it  seemed  could  be  avoided  by  a return  by  water.  The 
Hudson  Bay  Company  were  about  to  send  a ship  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  in  which  I was  kindly  offered  a gra- 
tuitous passage.  On  the  other  hand,  my  friendship  with 
gentlemen  of  this  establishment,  my  regard  for  the  spiritual 
welfare  of  the  benighted  men  for  whose  good  I had  for 
many  a weary  day  pursued  my>object,  over  mountains  and 
plains,  hills  and  valleys,  through  all  the  vicissitudes  of  cli- 
mate and  weather ; and  especially  a desire  to  see  in  this 
whitened  field,  the  returning  laborers  I expected,  and  to  be 
able  to  give  them  personally,  instead  of  by  letter,  the  result 
of  my  collected  information,  as  a guide  to  them  in  their  in- 
cipient labors;  all  these  held  me  riveted  to  the  spot,  and  un- 

30 


342 


DEPARTURE  FOR  OAHU — -"REFLECTIONS. 


decided  as  to  my  course.  At  length  after  consultation  with 
my  most  judicious  friends,  I concluded  to  take  passage  in 
the  barque  Columbia  for  Oahu,  in  the  hope  that  an  early 
opportunity  would  present  to  return  to  the  United  States. 

In  taking  leave  of  this  country  and  the  work  in  which  I 
have  so  long  been  engaged,  a train  of  reflections  crowds 
upon  my  mind.  The  future  condition  of  this  noble  race  of 
men  is  a subject  of  interesting  enquiry  to  many  others  as 
well  as  to  myself.  Whether  the  Indians  are  to  pass  away 
before  the  increasing  power  and  numbers  of  white  men,  or 
whether  enlightened  and  improved  by  their  philanthropy, 
they  shall  arise  in  the  scale  of  intellectual  and  moral  ex- 
istence, is  a problem  which  time  alone  can  solve.  I entered 
on  the  work  of  exploring  this  field  with  no  bias  or  precon- 
ceived opinion,  and  from  critical  and  personal  observation, 
I hesitate  not  to  say  that  I can  see  no  reason  existing  in  the 
nature  of  things,  or  in  their  present  condition,  which  ne- 
cessarily dooms  the  race  to  annihilation  on  the  one  hand,  or 
on  the  other,  necessarily  makes  them  objects  of  apprehen- 
sion, as  the  future  hordes  who  shall  in  coming  time,  like  the 
northern  barbarians  of  Roman  days,  be  reserved  as  the 
scourge  of  an  overgrown  and  decaying  republic.  If  to  do 
good  be  an  object  worthy  of  humanity  or  religion,  I see  not 
why  a consistent  and  persevering  attempt  to  raise  a race  of 
freemen  from  their  depression,  and  to  place  them  in  the 
rank  of  intelligent  men,  be  not  an  undertaking  fraught  with 
as  much  promise  and  encouragement,  as  it  was  in  earlier 
days  to  elevate  our  ancestors.  In  favor  of  this  opinion,  we 
have  the  docility  of  the  Indians  in  every  thing  pertaining 
to  their  improvement;  in  the  sprightliness  of  their  youth 
and  children ; and  in  the  amiableness  of  their  native  tem- 
pers and  dispositions.  I take  nothing  of  this  upon  testimony. 


REFLECTIONS. 


343 


In  all  my  intercourse  with  them,  I saw,  with  only  one  ex- 
ception, no  angry  or  malevolent  passions  in  exercise  in  their 
little  communities. 

I tremble  for  the  consequences,  when  I reflect  on  the 
wrongs  inflicted  upon  this  race  of  men.  Able  pens  have 
portrayed  in  vivid  colors,  their  injuries  and  abuses,  and  hu- 
manity has  wept.  Were  but  the  one  hundredth  part  spread 
out  to  view,  we  should  recoil  at  the  sight.  The  life  of  an 
Indian,  in  the  estimation  of  our  border  and  refugee  men  who 
visit  their  country,  is  nothing  worth.  Theirs  is  a land 
where' white  men  regard  no  law,  but  superior  cunning,  and 
superior  force,  bear  rule.  It  was  related  to  me  that  Cap- 
tain S.,  an  English  officer  in  half  pay,  while  traveling 
through  the  Indian  country,  lost  a horse  which  he  highly 
valued,  and  believing  it  to  be  stolen  by  an  Indian,  offered 
five  hundred  dollars  for  his  head.  One  of  a lawless  band, 
a half  Indian  who  was  present,  went  in  pursuit,  and  returned 
with  the  head  of  the  person  charged  with  the  theft,  and  de- 
manded his  reward.  To  make  out  the  sum  Captain  S.  gave 
him  two  horses,  calling  each  $250.  This  ended  the  affair. 
Mr.  Wyeth  in  a memoir,  embodied  in  a Report  of  a Com- 
mittee of  Congress,  on  the  Oregon  question,  says  “ The 
preponderance  of  bad  character  is  so  great  amongst  traders 
and  their  people,  that  crime  carries  with  it  little  or  no  shame. 
I have  heard  it  related  among  white  American  trappers,  as 
a good  joke,  that  a trapper  who  had  said  he  would  shoot  any 
Indian,  whom  he  could  catch  stealing  his  traps,  was  seen 
one  morning  to  kill  one ; and,  on  being  asked  if  the  Indian 
had  stolen  his  traps,  he  answered  No,  but  he  looked  as  if  he 
was  going  to.”  These  are  only  specimens. 

I have  been  much  pleased  to  notice  among  the  benevolent 
operations  of  the  present  day,  the  formation  of  a society  in 


344 


REMARKS. 


England,  which  I regard  as  among  not  the  least  benevolent » 
viz.  “ An  Aborigines  Protection  Society,”  from  whose  “Plan 
and  Objects,”  I quote,  as  expressing  most  fully  my  own  sen- 
timents. “ Among  these  tribes,  our  imported  diseases  pro- 
duce frightful  ravages,  our  ardent  spirits  deprave  and  con- 
sume their  population,  our  unjust  laws  exclude  them  from 
enjoying  that  first  element  of  well-ordered  societies,  judical 
protection,  as  well  as  from  the  possibility  of  a timely  incor- 
poration with  colonial  communities  ; while,  in  addition  to 
all  these  evils,  our  neglect  of  suitable  means  and  methods 
of  improvement,  prevents  that  adoption  of  civilized  manners 
and  customs  to  which  they  are  inclined.  It  is  impossible 
for  us  as  men,  patriots,  philanthropists,  or  Christians,  to  be- 
hold without  anxiety,  the  ruin  of  the  people  whom  we  are 
accessary  in  supplanting,  unless  our  future  modes  of  colo- 
nization be  directed  with  greater  humanity  and  wisdom  than 
in  times  past.” 

I have  in  several  places  made  mention  of  the  superior 
mildness  of  the  climate  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
that  the  seasons  are  divided  into  the  wet  and  dry;  the  rainy 
season  commencing  about  the  first  of  November,  and  the 
dry  about  the  first  of  May.  The  following  meteorological 
table,  which  was  taken  with  care,  will  give  a general  speci- 


men , 


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From  this  time  the  dry  season  commenced,  in  which  there  is  but  little  variation  of  weather. 


DEPARTURE  FOR  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 


357 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

The  voyage  commenced  for  the  Sandwich  Islands— passage  in  the 
Beaver  down  the  river— take  passage  in  the  barque  Columbia — de- 
tention in  Chenook  bay — arrival  at  the  islands — worship  in  the 
native  church — description  of  Oahu — the  Pari — the  valley  of  Manoa 
— description  of  Honolulu — of  Waititi— heathen  temple — Eva — 
Waialua — Keneohe — mountains — salt  lake — geology — natural  pro- 
ductions— animals— government — tea  party  of  the  royal  family — 
dinner  to  the  officers  of  the  Peacock  and  Enterprise — decrease  of 
population — unfair  negotiations — foreign  residents — charity  school 
—seamen’s  chapel-burying  place  of  the  royal  family — missionary 
success. 

On  the  18th  of  June,  according  to  previous  arrangements, 
I took  passage  in  the  steam-ship  Beaver  for  Fort  George, 
to  join  the  barque  Columbia  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  As 
the  Beaver  was  commencing  her  first  voyage  upon  the 
Pacific,  under  the  power  of  steam,  destined  for  the  north- 
west coast,  the  people  of  the  fort,  and  those  residing  around, 
assembled  upon  the  shore  of  the  Columbia,  and  as  she  moved 
majestically  from  her  anchorage,  they  saluted  us  with  cheers, 
which  were  reciprocated  by  all  on  board,  and  they  responded, 
“ A happy  voyage,  a prosperous  voyage.”  The  ship  an- 
chored at  night  a little  above  Tongue  Point ; and  the  next 
day,  after  being  detained  upon  a sand  bar,  from  which  the 
tide  after  awhile  set  us  free,  we  arrived  at  Fort  George. 

The  next  day,  the  20th,  my  friend  Mr.  Finlayson,  and  a few 

31* 


358 


GREAT  CAVE. 


others  took  a ramble  on  the  shores  below.  The  verdure  of 
the  trees  and  plants,  the  red  indigenous  clover  in  full  sweet- 
ness in  the  desert,  and  the  mildness  of  the  season,  all  com- 
bined to  make  the  scene  enchanting.  It  was  on  the  shore 
of  this  bay  where  I collected  the  large  bivalve  shell  petri- 
factions, embedded  in  calcarious  sandstone  of  the  Tertiary 
formation,  as  described  in  the  chapter  foregoing.  No  vol- 
canic appearances  were  visible  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

On  the  21st,  I embarked  on  board  the  Columbia,  and 
we  dropped  down  to  the  Chenook  Bay,  and  anchored  just 
above  Cape  Disappointment.  Here  for  the  want  of  favor- 
able wind  and  tide,  we  were  detained  until  the  28th.  While 
we  continued  here,  I made  several  excursions  on  shore ; as- 
cended the  cape,  which  is  probably  about  four  hundred  feet 
high,  and  from  which  a fine  prospect  of  the  Pacific  and  its 
shores  is  presented  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  shore 
is  generally  bold  and  rocky,  furnishing  no  other  harbor  near. 
The  country  around  is  rocky  and  densely  covered  with  for- 
ests, and  the  scenery  is  wild.  Near  the  shore,  on  the  west 
end  of  the  cape,  a large  cave  extends  into  the  volcanic 
rocks  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  We  pen- 
etrated into  its  gloomy  recesses,  and  from  the  bones  of  ani- 
mals strewed  around  within,  we  concluded  it  must  be  the 
retreat  of  some  of  those  beasts  of  prey  which  inhabit  these 
forests  and  coasts. 

About  the  cape  at  different  places,  grow  the  large  orange- 
yellow  raspberries  of  a new  species.  The  shrubbery  often 
grows  to  the  height  of  twenty  feet,  and  more  generally  in 
the  forests  than  in  open  places,  and  equally  fruitful.  They 
are  more  inviting  to  the  eye  than  agreeable  to  the  taste. 

While  we  were  detained  here,  our  men  belonging  to  the 
Columbia  caught  a large  number  of  codfish.  They  taste 


ARRIVAL  AT  OAHU. 


359 


very  much  like,  and  resemble  those  taken  upon  the  banks 
of  Newfoundland,  excepting  they  are  a little  shorter.  This 
is  the  first  time  they  were  known  to  exist  in  these  waters  ; 
the  Indians  knew  nothing  of  them  before,  and  they  eagerly 
took  those  we  did  not  need. 

On  the  25th,  the  bar  being  smooth,  with  only  a light  wund, 
though  ahead,  and  the  tide  favoring,  the  Beaver  weighed 
anchor  and  put  out  to  sea  for  her  northern  voyage.  She 
went  over  the  bar  finely,  and  could  have  towed  us  over, 
but  it  being  her  first  experiment,  it  was  not  thought  advi- 
sable. 

On  Tuesday  the  28th,  the  wind  and  tide  were  favorable 
for  passing  the  bar,  and  we  set  sail  at  half  past  three  in  the 
afternoon.  There  was  a heavy  rolling  sea  ; and  every  man 
was  at  his  post,  one  on  each  side  of  the  ship  constantly  throw- 
ing the  lead  to  take  the  sounding.  Four  fathoms  and  a half 
was  the  least,  and  this  was  little  enough  considering  the 
heavy  swell.  The  bar  has  a very  bold  termination  ; for 
we  passed  from  seven  fathoms  to  no  sounding,  where  the 
sea  presented  its  dark  blue.  The  land  receded,  and  in  a 
few  hours  disappeared  ; and  nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  one 
wide  expanse  of  ocean.  Our  voyage  to  Oahu,*  Sandwich 
Islands,  was  attended  with  nothing  remarkable,  except- 
ing that  it  was  performed  in  much  shorter  time  than  usual, 
being  only  sixteen  days  from  the  time  we  left  the  Colum- 
bia river,  to  our  anchoring  in  the  roads  of  Honolulu.  We 
took  our  direct  course,  and  kept  it  without  any  variation, 
and  with  a few  exceptions  without  shortening  a sail,  the 
distance  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  miles.  An  almost 
entire  uniformity  marked  our  progress,  and  excepting  the 


* Pronounced  Wauhoo. 


360 


PUBLIC  WORSHIP. 


common  alternations  of  day  and  night,  sunshine  and  clouds, 
nothing  interrupted  the  monotony  of  the  scene. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  of  July,  land  was  announced. 
The  islands  of  Ranai  and  Morakai  were  near,  and  as  we 
passed  them,  we  had  a near  view  of  the  latter.  It  is  not 
so  mountainous  as  most  others  of  the  group,  and  presented 
rather  a sterile  aspect.  We  soon  after  made  Oahu,  and 
passed  on  the  east  side  around  Diamond  Hill  to  the  harbor 
of  Honolulu  on  the  south.  This  harbor  is  the  best  and 
almost  the  only  good  one  in  any  of  the  groups  of  the  Poly- 
nesian islands.  The  entrance  is  somewhat  intricate,  and 
an  experienced  pilot  is  required  to  take  ships  in  safely. 
Within  the  coral  reefs  the  water  is  sufficiently  deep  for 
ships  of  almost  any  magnitude  ; and  this,  with  the  long 
extended  roads  without  the  reefs  which  afford  good  anchor- 
age, renders  the  port  desirable,  and  the  island,  in  a com- 
mercial point  of  view,  the  most  important  of  any  in  this  part 
of  the  Pacific  ocean. 

We  went  on  shore,  two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  I 
was  invited  by  Rev.  H.  Bingham  to  his  house,  where  I met 
several  of  the  other  missionaries,  and  felt  much  rejoiced 
to  behold  again  a Christian  community. 

The  heat  of  a vertical  sun  was  very  oppressive  and  ener- 
vating, and  was  it  not  for  the  refreshing  effects  of  the  daily 
north-east  trade  winds,  it  would  be  insupportable  to  a north- 
ern constitution. 

On  Sabbath  17th,  I attended  worship  in  the  native  church, 
and  heard  Rev.  Mr.  Bingham  preach  in  the  Hawaiian  lan- 
guage to  a very  large  assembly  of  natives,  probably  two 
thousand  five  hundred,  who  gave  very  good  attention.  They 
were  all  decently  dressed,  while  some  of  them  were  in  the 
European  mode,  the  most  of  them  were  dressed  in  their  na- 


THE  PARI. 


361 


tive  costume,  and  made  a good  appearance.  Their  conduct 
and  attention  were  very  becoming,  and  many  listened  with 
deep  interest.  Madam  Kinau,  the  queen  regent,  and  the 
royal  family,  were  present ; and  although  it  was  easy  to 
distinguish  them  from  the  common  people,  yet  they  made 
no  ostentatious  display  of  royalty.  Their  dress  was  rich 
but  plain,  and  they  paid  sober  attention  to  the  worship  of 
God.  The  performance  of  the  singers  was  good,  but  there 
was  not  that  melody  in  their  voices  which  characterizes  the 
Indians. 

The  house  of  worship  is  large  and  commodious,  one 
hundred  and  ninety  feet  long  and  sixty-two  feet  wide,  built 
in  the  native  style,  with  the  roof  and  sides  covered  with 
thatch. 

Oahu  is  the  most  northern  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  situa- 
ted in  north  latitude  21°  18'  and  in  west  longitude  158® 
38'.  Its  greatest  length  is  forty-five  miles  from  Koka  on 
the  south-east  to  Kakana  on  the  north-west.  The  greatest 
portion  of  the  island  is  on  the  north-east  of  this  line.  Its 
greatest  breadth  is  twenty-eight  miles  from  Kahuku  on  the 
north  to  Laeloa  (Barber’s  Point)  on  the  south ; about  four 
fifths  of  the  island  is  on  the  east  of  this  line.  The  island 
is  very  mountainous  ; the  highest  eminence  is  called  Hon- 
ahuanui,  and  is  a little  over  four  thousand  feet.  The  Pari, 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  of  Nuuanu,  north  of  Hon- 
olulu, may  be  counted  among  the  curiosities  of  the  island  ; 
principally  on  account  of  its  being  a part  of  the  main 
road,  or  rather  the  only  one  to  Keneohe.  It  is  one  thou- 
sand one  hundred  and  forty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  six  hundred  feet  nearly  perpendicular.  This  is  to  be 
clambered  up  and  down  in  passing  from  Honolulu  to  Ken- 
ehoe,  and  to  a stranger  it  is  a fearful  undertaking,,  as  it  is 


362 


DECISIVE  BATTLE. 


necessary  to  have  a native  to  assist  in  putting  your  feet  into 
the  crevices  of  the  rocks.  And  yet  the  natives  pass  up  and 
down  with  their  calabashes  of  poi , and  their  loads  of  mel- 
ons, fish,  and  other  commodities,  without  any  difficulty  more 
than  fatigue. 

Some  years  ago,  in  a war  between  Tamehameha  and  the 
king  of  Oahu,  the  final  battle  was  fought  here  which  decided 
the  fate  of  the  island.  The  king  of  Oahu  made  a desperate 
struggle  ; and  one  part  of  his  routed  army,  numbering  more 
than  three  hundred,  were  pursued  to  this  precipice,  forced 
down,  and  almost  all  were  dashed  to  pieces. 

On  each  side  of  this  pass,  needle-pointed  mountains  rise 
up  two  thousand  feet  forming  a narrow  chasm,  through 
which  the  north-east  trade  winds  rush  with  great  violence. 
Before  you,  at  the  north,  you  have  a very  pleasing  view  of 
the  fertile  valley  of  Kolou  ; and  beyond  is  a fine  prospect 
of  the  bay  and  wide  spread  ocean.  The  valley  between  the 
Pari  and  Honolulu  is  seven  miles  long;  the  upper  part  of 
which  is  narrow  and  very  picturesque.  Interesting  cas- 
cades are  seen  dashing  down  the  almost  perpendicular 
mountains,  and  the  whole  scenery  is  covered  with  fresh 
foliage.  This  was  almost  the  only  place  where  the  cool  and 
invigorating  breezes  gave  me  relief  from  the  oppressive  heat. 
The  lower  part  of  the  valley  is  wide,  and  covered  to  a great 
extent  with  taro  patches. 

Taro  is  a bulbous  plant  of  the  genus  arum , and  is  planted 
in  hills  upon  patches  of  ground,  so  formed  as  to  be  partially 
flooded  with  water,  somewhat  after  the  manner  of  rice  cul- 
tivation. In  eight  or  ten  months  after  setting  the  plants, 
they  are  fit  for  use.  To  prepare  it  for  food,  it  is  always  ne- 
cessary to  roast  it,  to  take  out  the  pungency  which  is  common 
to  this  genus,  as  found  in  the  wild  turnip.  It  is  frequently 


VALLEY  OF  MANOA. 


363 


eaten  for  bread  with  no  other  preparation  except  roasting  ; 
or  it  is  converted  into  poi  by  pulverising  and  making  it  into 
a stiff  paste.  The  natives  prefer  the  poi  after  it  has  under- 
gone the  acetic  fermentation. 

East  of  this  valley  is  another  called  Manoa,  about  five 
miles  in  length,  running  north  from  Diamond  Hill.  It  is 
well  watered  by  streams  descending  from  the  mountains, 
formed  by  showers  of  rain  which  frequently  fall  upon  them, 
and  which  sometimes  extend  to  the  valleys  and  plains.  Its 
fertile  soil  is  well  cultivated  with  sweet  potatoes,  taro,  and 
melons.  At  the  upper  end,  Kaahumanu,  the  late  queen  re- 
gent, who  died  in  1832,  had  a house  built  for  retirement 
from  the  bustle  of  Honolulu,  and  for  devotion,  near  a beau- 
tiful cool  grove  of  oliia  and  kukui  trees,*  on  an  eminence 
commanding  a view  of  the  valley  below.  Near  this  dwell- 
ing, she  caused  a house  to  be  built  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  missionaries,  when  they  should  wish  for  rest,  and  to 
be  refreshed  with  the  invigorating  air  of  the  mountains. 
The  evidences  of  her  Christian  character  were  convincing. 
Her  piety  was  active.  She  traveled  through  all  the  islands, 
from  time  to  time,  to  see  that  the  people  attended  upon  the 
means  of  religious  instruction,  and  the  schools  ; and  to  rec- 
ommend the  religion  of  the  Bible  to  all  classes  of  her  sub- 
jects. Her  example,  as  well  as  her  authority,  was  power- 
ful in  suppressing  intemperance,  and  the  many  vices  which 
threatened  the  ruin  of  her  country.  Her  influence  was  felt 
not  only  by  her  own  people,  but  also  by  foreigners  who  re- 
sorted to  those  islands. 

When  I visited  this  spot  of  remembrances,  the  buildings 


* The  kukui  tree  bears  a nut  as  large  as  a black  walnut,  a string  of 
which  is  used  for  candles,  and  hence  the  tree  is  called  the  candle  tree. 


364 


HONOLULU. 


were  far  gone  to  decay  ; but  not  the  cherished  regard  of  her 
piety  and  philanthropy.  This  spot  presented  a very  plea- 
sing view  of  the  high  and  precipitous  mountains  around  on 
every  side ; excepting  the  south,  which  is  open  and  exhibits 
to  view  the  grandeur  of  the  rolling  ocean.  The  many  cas- 
cades around  upon  the  mountain  sides  added  to  the  interest 
of  the  scenery.  Among  the  variety  of  shrubbery,  we  found 
the  coffee  tree  with  its  fruit  in  various  stages  of  maturity  ; 
the  arrow  root ; and  the  brake  fern  growing,  in  many  in- 
stances, to  the  height  of  twenty  feet.  From  a bulb,  near 
the  root,  is  taken  what  the  natives  call  hapuu,  a silky  down, 
which  makes  excellent  beds  and  cushions. 

Honolulu  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  on  a 
bay  of  the  same  name,  and  is  the  capital,  and  business  place 
of  all  the  islands.  The  land  around,  and  on  which  the  vil- 
lage is  located  is  a dry  barren,  excepting  on  the  north  and 
north-west,  which  is  moist  and  cultivated  with  taro  patches, 
with  some  cocoa  trees  interspersed.  The  buildings  generally 
are  in  the  native  style,  thatched ; many  are  built  with  doba 
wails  after  the  Spanish  manner  on  the  coast  of  Mexico  and 
Peru,  that  is,  with  large  sun-burnt  bricks  made  about  two  feet 
long,  eighteen  inches  wide,  and  ten  inches  thick.  The  clay 
is  mixed  with  cut-straw  to  strengthen  them,  after  the  manner 
of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Their  enclosures  are  often  built 
in  the  same  manner.  There  are  several  good  buildings 
made  of  rock  coral  in  English  style,  some  of  which  are  spa- 
cious and  well  finished.  The  village  contains  about  nine 
thousand  inhabitants,  three  hundred  of  whom  are  English 
and  Americans.  Most  of  the  commercial  business  and  trade 
are  carried  on  by  foreigners,  to  a large  amount,  increased  by 
the  resort  of  whale  ships,  in  the  fall  and  spring,  for  repairs 
and  fresh  supplies,  particularly  vegetables  ; it  is  the  place 


OLD  HEATHEN  TE3IPLE. 


365 


where  all  other  shipping  touch  which  navigate  this  ocean 
from  Europe  and  America,  in  the  Chinese  and  East  India 
trade.  This  place  is  constantly  growing  in  importance, 
and  must  continue  to  do  so  from  its  local  advantages. 

Four  miles  south-east  of  Honolulu  is  the  pleasant  nativt 
village  of  Waititi,  situated  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name. 
It  contains  five  or  six  hundred  inhabitants,  is  situated  in  a 
beautiful  grove  of  cocoa  trees,  which  adds  very  much  to  its 
appearance  and  comfort.  This  place,  if  its  cultivation  was 
proportioned  to  the  richness  of  the  soil,  might  be  made  one 
of  the  most  delightful  spots  on  the  island. 

The  only  road,  or  any  thing  that  deserves  the  name  of  a 
road  in  this  island,  is  between  this  place  and  Honolulu. 

About  two  miles  east  of  this  village  are  the  remains  of  an 
old  heathen  temple,  in  which  human  sacrifices  were  offered  ; 
a part  of  the  walls  of  the  enclosure  are  still  standing.  Va- 
rious methods  were  employed  to  obtain  victims.  One  of 
which  was  to  lay  a tabu  upon  all  the  people  in  the  whole 
region  around,  that  no  one  for  a certain  period  of  time 
should  go  out  of  their  dwellings,  or  make  any  fire  in  them, 
upon  pain  of  death.  If  any  violated  the  tabu , they  were 
apprehended  and  sacrificed  to  their  idols.  If  they  were  un- 
successful in  obtaining  victims  in  this  way,  they  would  send 
out  men  in  a canoe,  to  range  along  between  the  coral  reef 
and  the  shore,  and  to  feign  distress,  and  if  any  were  decoy- 
ed out  for  their  relief,  they  were  apprehended  and  carried 
to  the  temple  and  offered  in  sacrifice. 

It  is  a pleasing  consideration,  that  the  benign  influence 
of  the  gospel  has  dispelled  these  bloody  and  cruel  supersti- 
tions of  heathenism.  I had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  an 
old  man  who  had  been  a high  priest  in  these  bloody  rites. 

He  has  no  hope  that  he  is  interested  in  the  salvation  of  the 

32 


366 


EVA. 


gospel,  but  he  said  it  is  maitai , (good,)  and  that  the  Christian 
religion  is  so  firmly  established  in  these  islands,  that  their 
ancient  idolatry  can  never  again  be  revived.  He  saluted 
me  with  many  alohas.  Mr.  Bingham  gave  him  some  ac- 
count of  my  journey  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the 
object.  He  replied  that  it  was  good,  and  that  God  was  with 
me  and  preserved  me.  He  said  in  their  former  religion, 
they  were  all  ignorant — all  was  darkness,  entire  darkness, 
but  now  the  light  shines.  He  said  that  when  Captain  Van- 
couver visited  these  islands  in  the  reign  of  Tamaha,he  urged 
the  king  to  renounce  idolatry,  and  the  king  promised  he 
would,  when  Christians  would  send  from  the  land  of  light 
a minister  to  teach  them  in  the  right  way.  They  waited 
until  their  king  died  without  knowing  the  right  way,  and  no 
one  came  until  Mr.  Bingham  and  his  associates  in  the  year 
1820.  This  old  heathen  priest  gave  up  his  religion  and  his 
honors,  took  Mr.  B.  by  the  hand  on  his  first  arrival,  and 
called  him  brother,  and  has  ever  since  been  friendly  to  the 
missionaries.  His  wife,  whom  I also  saw,  hopes  that  she 
has  experienced  the  saving  power  of  the  gospel. 

Fourteen  miles  west  of  Honolulu  is  Eva,*  a village  of  con- 
siderable magnitude,  but  not  very  compact.  It  is  situated 
on  Pearl  river,  at  the  head  of  a large  lagoon  extending  sev- 
eral miles  inland,  and  is  surrounded  with  a fertile  valley 
reaching  twelve  miles  north,  which  is  two  thirds  of  the  dis- 
tance to  Waialua.  The  highest  elevation  between  these 
places  is  about  four  hundred  feet,  and  is  intersected  in  va- 
rious parts  with  deep  ravines.  Eva  is  the  station  which 
Rev.  Artemus  Bishop  and  wife  occupy,  whose  prospects  of 
usefulness  are  encouraging.  When  I was  there,  the  na- 


* Pronounced  Ava. 


KENEOHE. 


367 


lives  were  engaged  in  building  a substantial  and  commodi- 
ous house  of  worship,  and  appeared  to  take  deep  interest  in 
the  effort. 

In  the  north-west  part  of  the  island,  is  the  village  of 
Waialua,  where  Rev.  John  S.  Emerson  and  wife  are  sta- 
tioned. The  village  is  situated  upon  a wide  spread  bay, 
which  would  furnish  an  excellent  harbor  for  any  shipping, 
if  there  was  sufficient  water  upon  the  bar  at  the  entrance. 
The  valley  around  is  large  and  fertile,  capable  of  being 
made  very  productive.  On  a Sabbath  which  I spent  here, 
eight  natives,  six  men,  and  two  women,  were  received  into 
the  communion  of  the  church,  who  appeared  very  intelli- 
gent and  serious,  and  conducted  with  as  much  propriety  as 
is  seen  in  the  most  civilized  parts  of  the  world.  I felt  a 
satisfaction  in  joining  with  these  redeemed  heathen  in  the 
ordinance  of  the  Lord’s  supper.  Every  part  of  divine  ser- 
vice was  conducted  with  Christian  decorum.  I was  par- 
ticularly pleased  with  the  appearance  of  the  native  deacon, 
who  was  dignified  in  his  person,  dressed  in  good  taste,  and 
very  devotional  in  his  behavior. 

The  only  remaining  village  of  any  considerable  import- 
ance is  Keneohe,  where  Rev.  Benjamin  W.  Parker  and 
wife  are  stationed.  This  village  is  in  the  fertile  valley  of 
Kolou,  near  the  shore  of  a pleasant  bay,  which  would  af- 
ford an  excellent  harbor  if  there  was  sufficient  water  at  the 
entrance  over  the  coral  bar.  This  village  is  about  four 
miles  north  of  the  Pari,  and  is  the  most  cool  and  refreshing 
retreat  I found  upon  the  island.  The  basaltic  mountain  on 
the  south,  three  thousand  feet  high,  and  nearly  vertical  ; and 
the  north-east  trade  winds  give  a temperate  atmosphere, 
not  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  island  sufficiently  low 
for  a village. 


368 


SALT  LAKE. 


The  greatest  part  of  the  island  is  mountainous,  though 
but  two  ranges  are  of  considerable  magnitude.  The  lar- 
gest, Koanahumanui,  is  on  the  east  side,  and  runs  parallel 
with  the  ocean,  and  its  highest  point  is  four  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  range  of  mountains  is  di- 
versified with  cones,  acute  points,  and  paries.  At  the  great 
Pari,  the  upper  end  of  Nuuanu,  the  main  chain  turns  to  the 
west,  and  terminates  towards  Waialua.  The  north  side 
of  the  range,  west  of  the  Pari,  is  very  precipitous,  having 
many  spurs  projecting  to  the  north,  including  deep,  pit-like 
ravines.  The  other  range  is  on  the  west  part  of  the  island, 
called  Kaala,  running  north  and  south,  separating  Waianae 
on  the  west,  from  the  valley  of  Eva  on  the  east.  The  high- 
est point  is  three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
There  are  many  conical  hills  of  different  magnitudes  in  va- 
rious parts  of  the  island,  which  were  evidently  ancient  cra- 
ters ; one  six  miles  south-east  of  Honolulu,  called  Diamond 
Hill ; and  another  a short  distance  north  of  Honolulu,  called 
Fort  Hill.  They  are  open  and  concave  at  the  top,  with 
high  walls,  reeded  down  the  sides,  which  appear  to  have 
been  formed  by  streams  of  lava,  and  by  the  action  of  water, 
cutting  ravines.  There  is  an  abundance  of  lava  and  other 
volcanic  productions  about  these  hills. 

The  Salt  Lake,  four  miles  west  of  Honolulu,  is  of  the  cra- 
teric  form.  It  is  a great  curiosity,  as  well  as  a source  of 
trade.  It  has  undoubtedly  a connection  by  some  subterra- 
neous passage  with  the  ocean,  near  which  it  is  situated. 
Its  depth  is  not  known,  being  nearly  filled  with  excellent 
crystalized  salt,  which  appears  to  be  inexhaustible,  and  is 
taken  out  in  large  quantities  for  use  and  exportation.  The 
lake  appears  as  if  covered  with  ice,  a little  sunken  below' 
the  surface  of  the  water. 


GEOLOGY. 


369 


The  geological  formations  of  this  island,  and  all  the  others 
in  the  Pacific  which  I saw,  and  concerning  which  I ob- 
tained information,  are  volcanic  and  coraline  to  a great 
extent.  Some  have  supposed  that  these  islands  have  been 
thrown  up  in  the  first  place  by  internal  fires,  and  then  en- 
larged by  coraline  additions.  But  there  is  too  much  argil- 
laceous soil  to  favor  the  opinion ; and  to  say  the  least,  the 
supposition  is  without  conclusive  evidence.  Much  of  the 
soil  is  formed  of  disintegrated  and  decomposed  lava.  The 
reefs  lying  off  from  the  shores,  and  in  some  places  immedi- 
ately upon  them,  are  coraline.  The  corals  are  divided  into 
ancient  and  modern,  the  latter  still  increasing.  Between  these 
formations  is  a volcanic  deposit.  The  ancient  corals  are 
found  in  many  places  forming  the  surface  of  the  plains,  ele- 
vated some  six  or  eight  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the 
ocean.  As  the  zoophytes,  which  form  coral,  never  work 
above  water,  it  is  evident  that  these  islands  have  been  ele- 
vated by  some  subterranean  or  submarine  power,  or  the 
ocean  is  subsiding ; and  as  this  recession  of  the  ocean  is  seen 
in  various  parts  of  the  world,  in  nearly,  if  not  the  same  degree, 
is  it  not  probable  that  the  waters  of  the  ocean  are  gradually 
diminishing  ? Of  the  modern  corals  there  are  many  species, 
from  the  rock,  to  the  most  beautiful  kinds  resembling  trees 
and  plants,  and  of  various  colors.  The  volcanic  formations 
do  not  differ  materially  from  those  in  Oregon  Territory. 
Cellular  lava  is  very  common,  often  bordering  upon  pumice, 
and  of  various  colors;  brick  red,  ash  colored,  orange  yellow, 
and  green.  No  primitive  rocks  are  found,  nor  any  silicious 
sand ; the  sand  upon  the  shores  being  formed  either  of  dis- 
integrated lava,  scoria,  or  coral,  but  more  generally  com- 
bined of  these  three  elements. 

While  I shall  not  attempt  a minute  enumeration  of  the 

32* 


370 


ANIMALS. 


productions  of  these  islands,  the  following  are  some  of  the 
principal.  The  cocoa  tree,  bread  fruit,  coa  tree,  which  fur- 
nishes  lumber  nearly  equal  to  mahogany  ; hybiscus,  candle 
nut  tree,  mulberry,  fig,  cotton  tree,  which  grows  spontane- 
ously and  produces  cotton  of  very  fine  quality;  coffee  tree, 
grape  vines,  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  pine  apples,  melons  of 
superior  quality,  squashes,  sugar  cane,  arrow  root ; indigo 
plant,  which  grows  finely  without  any  care ; the  guava,  a 
fruit  resembling  mandrakes,  but  not  agreeable  to  the  taste 
of  those  not  accustomed  to  them ; taro,  sweet  and  common 
potatoes,  and  bananas.  There  are  many  ferns  of  extraor- 
dinary size,  and  the  cactus  opuntia , familiarly  known  as  the 
prickly  pear,  growing  to  the  height  of  six  or  eight  feet,  is 
planted  in  hedge-rows  for  enclosures.  All  the  most  superb 
tropical  flowering  plants  luxuriate  in  these  islands,  among 
which  we  find  the  oriental  lilac,  eight  different  species  of 
mimosa,  the  pride  of  Barbadoes,  several  varieties  of  convol- 
vulus, and  mirabilis,  the  passiflora  or  passion  flower,  roses, 
the  Spanish  pink,  Mexican  pea,  and  many  other  beautiful 
genera.  Also  garden  vegetables  of  various  kinds. 

These  islands  when  discovered  by  Capt.  Cook,  contained 
but  very  few  animals,  and  most  of  those  now  found  upon 
them  have  been  since  introduced  from  the  Mexican  coast. 
There  are  now,  horses,  mules,  neat  cattle,  goats,  hogs,  dogs, 
fowls.  The  birds  which  have  their  residence  here,  though 
not  numerous,  are  of  most  beautiful  plumage,  and  the  favor- 
ite head  ornament  of  the  women,  is  made  of  the  golden 
colored  feathers  of  a native  bird.  The  crow  and  raven, 
which  are  common  in  almost  all  parts  of  the  world,  have 
not  found  their  way  here.  There  are  very  few  reptiles,  but 
the  green  lizard  is  very  common,  and  in  the  days  of  the 
idolatry  of  the  Islanders  was  worshiped,  and  such  is  the  in- 


GOVERNMENT. 


371 


fluence  of  superstition,  that  they  can  hardly  dismiss  all 
feelings  of  reverence  for  this  insignificant  reptile.  If  one 
comes  into  their  dwellings,  they  choose  to  let  it  take  its 
own  departure  rather  than  molest  it.  Snakes  are  unknown, 
and  the  scorpion  and  centiped  have  within  a very  few 
years  been  brought  here  in  vessels.  The  musquitoe  was 
not  known  until  recently,  though  now  they  are  numerous 
and  very  annoying. 

The  government  of  these  islands  is  absolute  and  heredi- 
tary, administered  by  the  king,  queen,  and  chiefs,  whose 
will  is  the  supreme  law ; the  common  people  are  a nation  of 
slaves.  The  lands  belong  to  the  government,  and  are  leased 
to  the  people  at  high  rents,  and  even  then  they  have  no 
security  that  they  shall  enjoy  the  avails  of  their  labor ; for 
beside  the  stipulated  rents,  the  government  make  any  addi- 
tional demands  they  please,  and  the  people  are  taught  to 
obey  without  complaining.  The  persons  of  the  chiefs  are 
remarkable  for  their  extraordinary  size,  towering  quite 
above  the  height  of  the  common  people,  and  in  corpulency 
preserving  corresponding  dimensions.  The  king  secures 
his  house  and  person  by  life  guards.  Very  frequently  on  a 
Saturday  morning,  the  queen  regent,  attended  by  her  train 
and  servants  in  equestrian  style,  visits  her  garden  some  two 
miles  from  Honolulu.  Their  appearance  is  fine,  and  they 
are  well  skilled  in  horsemanship.  Her  ordinary  mode  of 
riding  is  in  a small,  low-wheel  carriage  drawn  by  twenty 
servants.  The  Sandwich  Islanders,  or  Kanakas , as  the  com- 
mon people  are  called,  have  less  activity  of  body  and  mind 
than  the  Indians  of  our  continent,  and  yet  a phrenologist 
would  say  that  their  intellectual  powers  are  well  developed. 
In  their  present  political  condition,  they  are  not  expected  to 
be  otherwise  than  indolent  and  improvident..  In  their  dress, 


372 


TEA  PARTY DOG  FEAST. 


mode  of  living,  and  habitations  generally,  they  have  made 
but  little  advance  upon  the  days  of  heathenism  ; some  in 
the  interior,  especially,  wearing  little  more  clothing  than 
their  maro , and  having  their  dwellings  in  caverns  in  vol- 
canic rocks.  The  chiefs,  and  some  of  the  people,  have 
good  houses,  dress  in  good  fashion,  and  live  comfortably. 
The  king,  queen  regent,  and  chiefs,  gave  a tea  party,  to 
which  with  a few  others  I had  the  honor  to  be  invited. 
They  were  dressed  richly  and  in  good  taste ; the  table  was 
splendidly  arrayed  with  silver  plate  and  china ; the  enter- 
tainment was  both  judiciously  and  tastefully  arranged  and 
prepared,  and  all  the  etiquette  and  ceremony  of  such  occa- 
sions was  observed.  The  conversation  was  cheerful  and 
intelligent,  without  frivolity,  and  nothing  occurred  embar- 
rassing to  any  one.  At  a suitable'  early  hour,  we  were  in- 
vited into  a saloon  well  furnished,  where,  after  a perform- 
ance of  music,  both  vocal  and  instrumental,  the  queen  pro- 
posed that  prayer  should  conclude  our  agreeable  visit;  after 
which  the  company  retired.  I have  seen  but  few  parties 
in  Christian  America  conducted  more  on  the  principles  of 
rationality  and  religion. 

An  entertainment,  however,  is  sometimes  transacted  in  a 
different  style  by  some  of  our  countrymen  and  other  for- 
eigners in  those  islands.  A dog-feast,  as  it  is  there  called, 
was  given  by  foreign  resident  gentlemen,  on  the  20th  of 
Sept,  at  the  country  seat  of  the  American  consul,  in  honor 
of  the  officers  of  the  American  squadron,  the  Peacock  and 
Enterprise,  then  in  the  harbor  of  Honolulu.  I extract  from 
the  account  published  in  the  Sandwich  Island  Gazette  as  de- 
scribed at  the  time.  “Food  in  native  style  w*as  bountifully 
served  up — baked  dog  was  among  the  dishes,  and  it  was  net 
to  be  despised.  Songs,  toasts,  cheers,  bumpers,  and  speech- 


DECREASE  OF  POPULATION. 


373 


es  all  came  in  their  turn.  Among  the  toasts  were,  ‘Com- 
modore   our  Commodore Commodore’s  reply,  £ May 

you  all  live  a thousand  years,  and  may  we  always  meet 

here.’  Doctor  of  the  United  States  ship  Peacock. 

* Population  and  prosperity  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  an 
end  to  all  oppressive  tabus.’  The  party  separated  teeming 
with  good  spirits.” 

The  population  of  these  islands  has  been  decreasing  ever 
since  an  acquaintance  has  been  had  with  them.  Captain 
Cook  estimated  the  people  at  400,000.  The  present  popu- 
lation is  about  110,000.  A variety  of  causes  have  conspi- 
red to  bring  about  this  declension,  and  yet  no  one  so  promi- 
nent above  the  rest,  as  wholly  to  satisfy  enquiry.  It  is 
acknowledged  by  all  observers,  and  has  become  evident  to 
the  government  itself,  that  a change  of  things  in  the  inter- 
nal structure  of  their  national  affairs,  is  necessary  to  the 
prosperity  of  the  people.  During  my  stay  at  Oahu,  the 
heads  of  the  nation  had  frequent  meetings  to  discuss  the 
subject  of  reform  and  improvement,  and  to  adopt  some  new 
mode  of  administration  which  will  give  to  the  people  the 
privileges  of  freemen,  and  thereby  stimulate  them  to  indus- 
try. To  effect  this,  the  lands  must  be  distributed  among 
the  people,  a more  equal  mode  of  taxation  must  be  adopted, 
industry  must  be  encouraged,  and  progressive  prosperity 
will  follow  in  train. 

The  perpetuity  of  the  independence  of  this  nation,  and 
with  it  their  existence,  is  very  problematical.  A disposi- 
tion to  possess  these  islands,  has  evidently  been  manifested  by 
foreign  powers.  Whether  the  paw  of  the  Lion,  or  the  talons 
of  the  Eagle,  shall  first  make  them  its  prey,  or  whether  they 
shall  be  mutual  checks  upon  each  other,  and  thus  prolong 
the  life  of  this  feeble  nation,  is  not  known.  The  manner 


374 


FOREIGN  RESIDENTS. 


in  which  the  king  and  chiefs  are  often  treated  by  the  offi- 
cers of  foreign  nations,  the  insults  they  often  meet  with, 
would  not  pass  with  impunity  from  a more  powerful  people. 
In  fair  and  honorable  negotiations,  regard  is  had  to  mutual 
rights,  but  here  foreigners  assume  the  style  of  dictation  ; 
“ You  shall,  and  you  shall  not.5’  Assertions  are  made  of 
things  existing  in  the  laws  and  practices  of  England  and 
America,  which  neither  government  would  tolerate.  Lord 
Russel,  the  commander  of  the  Acteon,  a British  man  of 
war,  obtained  the  signature  to  a certain  instrument,  by 
assuring  the  Hawaiian  government  that  if  they  refused 
any  longer  to  sign  it,  he  would  order  all  the  English  ves- 
sels to  leave  the  harbor,  and  request  all  the  American 
shipping  to  withdraw  ; and  then  bring  his  armed  ship  be- 
fore their  fort,  and  batter  down  the  walls,  and  prostrate 
their  village.  The  king  signed  the  instrument,  and  then, 
together  with  the  queen  and  chiefs,  like  some  other  people 
who  feel  their  feebleness  before  a mightier  nation,  had  only 
the  poor  resort  of  a public  remonstrance.  They  accordingly 
sent  a remonstrance  to  the  king  of  Great  Britain,  in  which 
they  say,  that  “ on  account  of  their  urging  us  so  strongly  ; 
on  account  of  said  commanders  assuring  us  that  their 
communication  was  from  the  king  ; and  on  account  of  their 
making  preparation  to  fire  upon  us,— therefore  we  gave 
our  assent  to  the  writing,  without  our  being  willing  to 
give  our  real  approbation ; for  we  were  not  pleased 
with  it.”  They  feel  incompetent  to  contend  with  naval 
strength,  and  therefore  submit  to  indignities  from  which 
their  feelings  revolt.  Why  cannot  the  principles  of  jus- 
tice and  equity  govern  the  intercourse  of  men  with 
men,  where  they  are  so  well  understood,  and  the  pain- 
ful necessity  be  spared  of  innocence  and  helplessness 


FOREIGN  RESIDENTS. 


375 


supplicating  that  protection  which  Heaven  grants  to  its 
children. 

Much  has  been  said  of  the  character  of  the  foreign  res- 
idents, and  of  the  counteracting  influence  they  exert  upon 
the  labors  of  the  missionaries  in  this  field.  The  cause  of 
their  bitterness  and  opposition  is  well  understood,  and  lest 
my  own  observations  should  seem  partial  to  the  missiona- 
ries, and  invidious  towards  those  who  oppose  them,  I will 
embrace  all  I have  to  say  on  the  subject  in  a quotation 
from  a work  published  by  Mr.  J.  N.  Reynold  of  the  voy- 
age of  the  Potomac,  an  American  man  of  war.  He  cer- 
tainly cannot  be  accused  of  partiality  to  the  missiona- 
ries who  reside  on  these  islands,  for  his  remarks  on  them 
are  somewhat  acrimonious,  but  in  regard  to  the  foreign 
residents  he  says,  “ they  are  generally  devoid  of  all  reli- 
gious principle,  and  practice  the  greatest  frauds  upon  the 
natives  in  their  dealings  with  them  ; which  tends  to  cor- 
rupt their  morals,  and  to  preclude  all  hopes  of  fairness 
in  trade  among  them.  It  cannot  be  denied,  and  no  one 
can  regret  it  more  than  we  do,  that  this  whole  population, 
generally  speaking,  are  of  the  lowest  order ; among  whom 
every  thing  like  decent  restraint  which  civilized  soci- 
ety imposes  upon  its  members,  is  at  war  with  their  vi- 
cious propensities,  and  of  course  resisted  by  them  to  the 
extent  of  their  power.”  He  farther  adds,  “let  us  be  dis- 
tinctly understood  in  the  remarks  we  have  made  in  refer- 
ence to  the  foreign  residents  and  missionaries  on  this  isl- 
and. As  to  the  question,  which  party  is  on  the  side  of 
virtue  and  good  order,  there  can  be  but  one  opinion, 
where  there  is  not  even  room  for  comparison.”  1 have 
been  in  communities  where  vice  has  been  unblushingly 
indulged,  but  I have  never  witnessed  direct  enmity  to 


376 


ROYAL  CEMETERY. 


every  thing  morally  good,  in  so  much  bitterness  and  pow- 
er, as  in  Oahu. 

Most  of  the  foreign  residents  have  native  wives,  and 
manifest  a regard  for  the  education  of  their  children  ; and 
send  some  of  them  to  other  countries  for  this  purpose  ; but 
for  most  of  them  a charity  school  has  been  established,  and 
for  its  support  a call  is  made  upon  the  commanders  and 
officers  of  vessels  who  come  into  this  port ; and  they  have 
even  sent  to  England  and  America  for  charitable  aid. 
Though  some  poor  are  taught  here,  yet  I know  not  why  the 
benevolent  should  help,  by  way  of  charity , the  consuls  and 
rich  merchants  in  Oahu. 

I visited  the  seamen’s  chapel  and  preached  several  times 
for  Rev.  Mr.  Diell.  While  there  are  often  several  hundred 
seamen  in  the  port  of  Honolulu,  there  are  frequently  very 
few  attendants  on  the  regular  services  of  the  chapel.  Rev. 
Mr.  Diell,  their  worthy  chaplain,  is  however  indefatigable 
in  his  labors  through  the  week,  visiting  sailors  on  ship 
board,  and  wherever  he  can  find  them,  endeavoring  to  pro- 
mote their  spiritual  good.  Some  conversions  have  crowned 
his  efforts. 

On  the  occasion  of  the  funeral  of  an  infant  of  the  Prin- 
cess, whose  husband  is  Leleiohoku,  alias  Wm.  Pitt,  I visited 
the  burial  place  of  the  kings  and  royal  family.  This  is  a 
stone  building  of  rock  coral,  of  the  common  size  and  struc- 
ture of  the  houses  of  the  village,  and  situated  amongst  them, 
having  nothing  particularly  distinguishable  except  an  out- 
ward signal,  by  which  is  understood  the  number  and  rank 
of  the  dead  within.  They  are  encased  first  in  lead,  secured 
from  the  admission  of  air,  and  then  deposited  in  coffins  of 
elegant  workmanship,  covered  with  rich  silk  velvet  or 
crimson  damask,  and  ornamented  with  silver  or  brass  plate. 


MISSIONARY  SUCCESS. 


377 


Here  sleep  the  remains  of  Rihoriho,  and  Kamehamalu,  who 
died  on  a visit  to  England,  and  several  others  lying  in  state ; 
and  in  the  same  tomb,  are  interred  a number  of  other  mem- 
bers of  the  royal  family. 

The  missionaries  of  the  American  Board  of  Commission- 
ers for  Foreign  Missions  in  these  islands,  have  done  much 
to  elevate  the  character  of  the  population,  by  teaching  and 
preaching  the  truths  of  Christianity,  by  schools,  where  the 
first  rudiments  of  education  are  taught,  by  the  press,  and  a 
translation  of  the  entire  bible  ; they  have  exerted  a salutary 
influence  upon  the  morals  of  the  whole  nation,  and  raised  a 
monument  to  the  power  and  excellence  of  the  gospel  of  Jesus 
Christ.  They  have  also  laid  instrumentally,  a broad 
foundation  for  the  political,  and  social,  and  religious  im- 
provement of  that  people,  unless  thwarted  by  the  interfe- 
rence and  opposition  of  foreigners,  and  for  the  future  and 
unending  happiness  of  many  redeemed  souls  in  the  world  to 
come.  I had  frequent  opportunities  of  witnessing  the  effect 
of  their  labors  in  the  evidences  of  the  moral  renovation  of 
these  once  idolaters,  and  of  meeting  with  them  in  their 
great  congregation  on  the  Sabbath. 

o co 


33 


378 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Departure  from  Oahu  in  ship  Phoenix  for  the  United  States— call  at 
the  Society  Islands — brief  description  of  Tahiti  and  Eimeo — severe 
gales  of  wind — Magellanic  clouds — Martin  Vass  island — Trinidad — 
arrival  at  New  London. 

From  July  to  November,  no  vessel  departed  from  the 
Sandwich  Islands  direct  for  the  United  States,  and  after 
being  detained  about  five  months,  waiting  an  opportunity  to 
return,  I engaged  a passage  in  the  Phoenix,  Allyn,  from 
New  London,  and  embarked  December  17th.  The  ship  was 
built  for  the  China  trade,  of  four  hundred  and  ten  tons, 
manned  with  twenty-eight  persons,  besides  five  passengers. 
The  pilot  boat  left  us  well  out  at  sea,  at  nine  in  the  morning  ; 
our  course  south-west.  On  the  morning  of  the  *21st,  we  en- 
countered a strong  wind,  which  in  the  afternoon  had  in- 
creased so  much,  that  we  were  compelled  to  put  two  reefs 
in  the  top-sails;  and  a squall  split  our  jib  and  sprung  our 
foremast.  I had  no  opportunity  or  disposition  to  enjoy  the 
grandeur  of  the  rolling  ocean,  being  confined  to  the  cabin 
by  sea  sickness.  Our  ship  was  engaged  in  the  whaling 
business,  and  I was  furnished,  for  once,  with  an  opportuni- 
ty of  seeing  the  experiment  of  taking  a whale.  The  thing 
has  often  been  described,  but  the  novelty  of  the  manoeu- 
vre interested  me.  The  experienced  and  skillful  whale- 
men dispose  of  the  dangerous  process,  with  the  tactics  of 
their  profession,  in  a manner  much  beyond  my  conceptions 
before  witnessing  it ; and  the  monster  of  the  deep,  though 


TETUAROA  AND  TAHITI  ISLANDS. 


379 


mighty  in  his  strength,  is  made  to  submit  to  inferior  power, 
and  to  contribute  largely  to  illuminate  our  evenings  at 
home.  When  the  whale  is  brought  along  side  of  the  ship, 
the  whalemen  dissever  the  head  from  the  body,  and  hoist 
it  on  deck,  and  while  some  are  employed  in  perforating  the 
scull,  and  with  a bucket  taking  out  the  sperm,  others  make 
a spiral  incision  in  the  oily  portion,  beginning  where  the 
head  was  taken  off,  and  by  rope  and  hook  suspended  by  a 
pulley  twenty  feet  up  the  mainmast,  draw  up  the  oily  part 
which  cleaves  from  the  flesh,  while  the  body  of  the  whale 
revolves  in  the  water  ; and  this  process  is  continued  until  all 
that  is  valuable  is  secured.  There  are  said  to  be  thirty 
thousand  men  employed  in  this  business  in  the  Pacific,  while 
only  about  four  hundred  are  engaged  in  diffusing  the  light 
of  life  through  the  dark  places  of  the  earth. 

January  12th,  1837.  Through  the  whole  of  to-day  we 
had  strong  gales  from  N.  N.  E.  Our  top-sails  were  close 
reefed, — split  our  main-top-sail.  Headed  to  the  E.  close  on 
the  wind.  Very  bad  sea — not  able  to  take  any  observation 
of  our  latitude  or  longitude.  These  gales  continued  on  the 
13th  until  almost  every  sail  was  taken  in,  and  we  lay  to  on 
the  wind.  The  last  part  of  the  day  was  more  moderate, 
and  we  headed  south.  By  observation  taken  to-day,  our 
latitude  was  14°  47'  south. 

Sabbath,  15th.  The  winds  subsided,  and  the  weather  was 
warm.  In  the  morning  we  came  near  Tetuaroa,  a small 
island  of  the  Society  group.  It  is  low,  the  highest  parts  ri- 
sing but  a few  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  thinly  in- 
habited, and  adorned  with  large  and  beautiful  groves  of  the 
cocoa  tree  extending  even  to  the  water’s  edge.  The  fresh 
verdure  of  this  island  in  all  the  luxuriance  of  perpetual 
summer,  was  a delightful  contrast  to  the  constant  view  of  the 


380 


PEPEETI. 


water  for  nearly  a month,  and  I felt  as  though  these  gems  of 
the  ocean  were  scattered  here  to  refresh  the  tired  voyager, 
and  bring  to  his  mind  the  recollection  of  his  own  dear  home. 
Like  all  the  islands  of  this  ocean  which  I have  seen,  it  is  sur- 
rounded with  coral  reefs,  lying  off  at  a little  distance  from 
the  shore,  and  upon  which  the  sea  constantly  breaks.  In  the 
afternoon  we  approached  the  harbor  of  Papeeti,  at  the  island 
of  Tahiti.  The  pilot  came  off  to  us,  and  made  an  effort  to 
get  the  ship  in,  but  did  not  succeed,  the  wind  being  too  light, 
and  we  had  to  bear  off  for  the  night.  The  prospect  as  it 
lay  spread  out  before  us  was  a combination  of  all  that  was 
beautiful  in  nature.  Nor  am  I alone  in  the  impression 
which  this  little  “ Queen  of  the  ocean  ” makes  upon  a stran- 
ger. Others  have  described  it  with  all  the  vividness  which 
its  romantic  and  delightful  scenery  inspires.  The  harbor 
forms  a gentle  curve,  and  in  the  foreground,  on  a level  tract 
were  scattered  neat  cottages  built  of  thatch,  or  wood,  plas- 
tered and  whitewashed  with  coral  lime,  situated  together  with 
the  church,  in  the  midst  of  bread-fruit,  cocoa,  and  orange 
groves.  The  back  ground  of  the  enchanting  picture  was 
filled  up  with  hills  and  valleys,  and  streams  dashing  their 
way  down  the  ravines,  and  then  meandering  through  the 
rich  vale  below,  to  the  ocean,  while  the  outline  terminated 
in  steep  and  lofty  mountains.  But  not  the  least  interesting 
were  the  marks  which  the  Christian  religion  and  its  attend- 
ant, civilization,  have  made.  Here  was  a church,  and  to 
know  that  this  people  had  lately  been  rescued  from  pagan- 
ism, and  all  the  hideous  forms  of  idolatrous  worship,  raised 
in  my  heart  emotions  of  pleasure  and  gratitude,  which  not 
even  nature’s  fairest  forms  had  power  to  awaken.  An  im- 
mortal spirit  elevated  from  the  dust,  and  raised  to  heaven,  a 
monument  of  the  Savior’s  grace — what  can  equal  it? 


CHRISTIANITY  AND  CIVILIZATION'. 


381 


Monday  morning,  the  16th,  we  passed  safely  into  the  har- 
bor, where  we  found  the  Daniel  Webster,  Pierson,  from  Sag 
Harbor ; on  board  of  which  were  Rev.  W.  Richards  and 
family,  passengers  for  the  United  States. 

We  continued  in  this  port  four  days,  during  which  time 
I made  several  excursions  about  the  island,  and  became  ac- 
quainted with  the  English  missionaries,  of  whose  successful 
labors  I had  often  heard  and  read;  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Wil- 
son, Pritchard,  and  Darling,  and  their  families.  They  ap- 
pear happy  in  their  work,  and  devoted  to  it.  The  Christian 
religion  is  the  only  religion  acknowledged  in  these  islands, 
and  its  influence  is  universally  apparent.  As  the  conver- 
sion of  multitudes  in  the  first  ages  of  Christianity,  has  ever 
been  considered  as  furnishing  evidence  of  the  truth  of  the 
gospel,  so  the  “moral  miracle55  of  the  conversion  of  the 
islands  of  the  sea,  in  our  own  day,  is  calculated,  with  all 
its  attendant  circumstances  to  confirm  our  faith,  as  well  as  to 
encourage  us  in  prosecuting  still  farther  those  benevolent  de- 
signs, which  render  the  deserts,  both  naturally  and  morally, 
the  garden  of  the  Lord.  Besides  preaching  on  the  Sabbath, 
the  missionaries  have  religious  service  on  other  days  of  the 
week.  At  sun*- rise  every  morning  they  have  a public  prayer 
meeting.  They  are  doing  much  by  their  schools  and  the 
press  ; and  most  of  the  people  can  read.  The  performances 
of  the  natives  in  vocal  music  pleased  me,  their  voices  being 
very  soft  and  musical,  though  less  cultivated  than  those  of 
the  Sandwich  Islanders.  Their  personal  appearance,  corm 
plexion,  language,  and  dress  are  much  the  same  as  the  na- 
tives of  those  islands.  Their  advances  in  the  arts  and  in 
agriculture  are  less  than  might  be  expected  of  them,  but  in 
a climate  where  so  many  rich  fruits  vegetate  spontaneously,. 

the  necesssity  of  cultivation  is  less  imperious.  While  the 

33* 


G82 


GOVERNMENT, 


harbor  is  not  as  good  as  that  of  Oahu,  less  is  done  by  way 
of  wharfing,  or  otherwise  to  facilitate  business,  or  aid  in  re- 
pairing the  shipping  which  visit  this  island.  A good  public 
road  has  been  commenced  to  extend  around  the  island,  on 
which  convicts,  instead  of  being  imprisoned,  were  employed, 
but  it  is  now  neglected,  and  all  the  bridges  are  broken 
down. 

The  government  here  is  much  the  same  as  that  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  but  is  in  some  respects  more  free  and  sys- 
tematized. Their  judiciary  is  well  organized,  and  justice 
is  tolerably  well  administered.  Their  legislative  body  is 
composed  of  the  queen,  governors,  chiefs,  and  two  represen- 
tatives from  each  district  of  the  islands  of  Tahiti  and  Eimeo ; 
the  laws  when  framed  are  canvassed  by  the  people,  and  if 
approved,  receive  the  queen’s  signature.  The  young  queen 
Pomare  is  of  very  prepossessing  appearance,  possesses  tal- 
ents, and  decision  of  character ; but  her  views  of  civilization 
are  not  so  enlarged  as  those  of  Madam  Kinau. 

The  American  consul,  of  these  islands,  resides  at  Papee- 
ti ; he  is  a Dutchman,  and  as  he  informed  me,  a native  and 
citizen  of  Antwerp.  His  English  is  hardly  intelligible,  and 
his  knowledge  of  the  duties  of  his  office  is  yet  to  be  ac- 
quired. 

The  islands  of  Tahiti  and  Eimeo,  like  the  other  large 
islands  of  the  Pacific,  are  volcanic  and  coraline.  They 
are  mountainous,  many  of  which  are  high  and  steep,  and 
many  of  the  valleys  are  deep  and  narrow,  extending  far 
into  the  interior.  To  a considerable  extent  the  soil  is  rich 
and  productive  ; oranges  and  all  other  tropical  fruits  being 
abundant,  and  requiring  little  labor  or  care.  Such  is  the 
indolence  of  the  inhabitants  that  they  cultivate  little  besides 
sugar  cane  and  a few  vegetables.  These  islands  are  well 


CLEANLINESS  OF  THE  ISLANDERS. 


383 


supplied  with  forests,  in  which  are  several  kinds  of  wood 
equal  in  value  to  mahogany  for  cabinet  work.  The  heat 
for  the  most  part  of  the  year  is  so  oppressive  that  though 
many  things  are  very  pleasant,  yet  these  islands  come  short 
of  the  paradise  which  some  journalists  have  described. 

These,  like  the  other  islands  of  the  Pacific,  have  been  di- 
minishing in  populousness.  Various  causes,  such  as  the  in- 
troduction of  foreign  diseases,  infanticide,  human  sacrifices, 
the  means  furnished  by  commerce  of  rendering  wars  de- 
structive to  human  life,  and  the  introduction  of  ardent  spirits, 
have  all  contributed  to  this  end.  It  is  estimated  that  only 
about  twelve  thousand  people  inhabit  the  two  islands  of  Ta- 
hiti and  Eimeo,  and  about  forty  thousand  the  Georgian  and 
Society  group.  The  introduction  of  the  Christian  religion 
has  banished  many  causes  of  their  decline. 

The  cleanliness  of  the  islanders  is  a subject  worthy  of  re- 
mark. Their  practice  of  frequent  ablutions  and  sea  bath- 
ing, to  which  they  are  induced  by  the  climate,  and  of  which 
they  are  fond,  including  all  descriptions  of  persons,  and  even 
children,  is  highly  conducive  to  health,  and  promotes  a taste 
for  neatness  in  their  persons  not  common  to  heathen  nations. 

Wednesday,  18th,  I accompanied  Mr.  Pritchard  in  his 
pastoral  labors,  about  seven  miles,  on  horseback,  where  he 
preached  to  a congregation  in  a village  in  which  the  queen 
has  her  residence.  Queen  Pomare  was  present,  and  an 
interesting  audience  appeared  to  listen  as  if  they  were 
hearing  the  word  to  obey  it.  After  the  meeting  we  pursued 
our  ride  about  seven  miles  farther,  to  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson’s  at 
Point  Venus,  a lovely  spot,  situated  in  orange  groves  and 
bananas.  Our  way  thither  was  around  the  base  of  hills  and 
mountains  which  approached  near  the  beach  in  precipices, 
and  where  the  opening  through  the  coral  reefs  permitted  the 


384 


PUBLIC  FEAST. 


sea  to  break  oil  the  shore  with  a noise  like  thunder,  so  that 
we  had  to  watch  the  opportunity  afforded  by  the  receding 
waves  to  pass  their  points.  Any  horses,  but  those  accus- 
tomed to  the  sight,  would  have  denied  us  a safe  passage. 
With  these  dear  missionaries  I partook  of  a cheerful  dish  of 
tea,  while  we  talked  of  the  interests  of  the  kingdom  of  our 
common  Redeemer,  and  of  the  time  when  fellow  laborers 
from  every  part  of  our  lost  world,  and  from  their  different 
spheres  of  agency,  when  their  work  here  is  done,  shall  be 
gathered  to  their  Father’s  home  in  heaven. 

In  the  evening  we  returned  to  Mr.  Pritchard’s,  on  my  part 
delighted  with  so  refreshing  an  interview. 

During  my  short  stay,  the  queen  and  royal  family  of  a 
neighboring  island,  paid  a visit  of  friendship  to  Tahiti. 
This  afforded  me  a very  desirable  opportunity  of  remarking 
the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people.  A public  feast 
was  given  in  honor  of  the  royal  visitants ; and  the  day  was 
ushered  in  by  firing  rusty  guns,  of  which  they  have  a very 
few.  The  morning  until  ten  o’clock  was  occupied  in  col- 
lecting together  their  cocoanuts,  bananas,  baked  hogs,  &c. 
Many  were  out  to  purchase  calico  scarfs  of  two  or  three 
yards  in  length  to  wear  in  the  procession.  A very  large  pro- 
cession formed,  the  women  taking  the  lead,  and  the  men  fol- 
lowing in  order.  A female  with  an  infant  in  her  arms  led 
the  van.  This  was  explained  to  me  as  done  in  honor  of 
mothers  ; for  here,  as  well  as  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  wo- 
men are  regarded  as  in  all  respects  on  a par  with  men.  All 
were  well  attired  in  European  style,  their  heads  adorned 
tastefully  with  garlands  of  most  beautiful  tropical  flowers, 
with  which  their  sea-girt  isle  abounds  in  profusion.  After 
taking,  in  single  file,  a long  and  circuitous  march,  they  ar- 
rived at  their  feasting  bower,  under  a grove  of  cocoanufc, 


PREPARING  FOR  SEA. 


385 


bread-fruit,  and  orange  trees,  where  near  the  centre,  with 
an  infant,  sat  the  royal  visitor;  and  each  Tahitian  as  they 
passed,  threw  down  at  her  feet  their  scarfs  or  some  other 
present.  It  was  the  pleasure  of  the  queen,  however,  not 
long  to  retain  all  these  tokens  of  honor,  for  she  seemed  happy 
in  generously  giving  them  to  others.  After  the  procession 
had  passed  in  respectful  review,  next  came  the  refreshments, 
which  were  placed,  some  on  the  ground,  others  suspended 
on  boughs  of  trees,  which  were  taken  and  shared  in  little 
circles  seated  upon  the  grass,  evidently  enjoying  the  social 
interview.  This  is  considered  one  of  their  most  joyful  holi- 
days, and  was  managed  without  noise,  confusion,  or  any 
apparent  infraction  of  the  rules  of  propriety.  It  must  be 
recollected  that  this  is  a temperance  island ; all  traffic  in 
ardent  spirits  being  prohibited  by  law. 

In  taking  leave  of  these  islands,  I would  not  fail  to  men- 
tion the  kind  hospitality  of  Rev.  G.  Pritchard  and  family, 
and  the  satisfaction  I had  in  seeing  the  other  missionaries, 
and  witnessing  the  interesting  fruits  of  their  labors  under 
the  blessing  of  God. 

Our  stay  at  Tahiti  was  employed  by  the  ship’s  crew  in 
disposing  of  our  poor  sulphureted  water  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  and  in  re-supplying  themselves  with  the  pure  moun- 
tain streams  of  this  island,  and  in  “ vegetating  the  ship,'’  as 
they  phrase  it;  that  is,  by  collecting  quantities,  which  are 
purchased  of  the  natives,  of  oranges,  bananas,  sweet  pota- 
toes, limes,  cocoanuts  in  abundance,  bread-fruit,  yams,  and 
squashes.  Here  I collected  for  my  cabinet,  some  choice 
specimens  of  coral,  and  shells  of  the  ocean,  which  the  na- 
tives dive  to  obtain,  and  sell  to  the  ships  which  enter  this 
port. 

On  the  morning  of  Saturday  21st  January,  we  left  the 


386 


MAN  OVERBOARD. 


harbour  of  Tahiti  with  a light  wind,  and  as  we  sailed  around 
Eimeo,  its  mountains,  with  their  densely  wooded  tops  and 
precipitous  sides,  appeared  in  full  prospect.  On  this  island 
there  is  a high  school  for  the  children  of  the  missionary 
families  of  the  several  islands. 

We  proceeded  with  a favorable  wind  until  the  30th,  when 
our  latitude  was  30°  27'  south,  and  longitude  153°  10'  west. 
I was  here  much  gratified  to  witness  the  interesting  phe- 
nomenon of  a water  spout.  It  first  became  visible  to  us 
about  half  a mile  distant  as  it  arose,  and  at  that  distance 
we  had  no  apprehensions  of  danger  from  it,  and  yet  it  was 
sufficiently  near  to  give  a distinct  view.  It  commenced  in 
a small,  dark,  and  nearly  perpendicular  column,  enlarging 
its  diameter  as  it  rose,  until  it  reached  the  region  of  the 
clouds,  when  apparently  feeling  the  influence  of  the  wind, 
it  passed  obliquely  to  the  south-west.  It  continued  in  view 
some  time,  but  as  we  were  proceeding  on  our  course,  it  grad- 
ually disappeared. 

On  the  4th  of  February,  fresh  breezes  from  the  north- 
west took  the  place  of  the  south-east  trade  winds,  and  our 
course  was  laid  E.  S.  E. 

On  the  5th  we  had  strong  gales  from  the  west.  Put  two 
reefs  in  the  top-sails,  and  took  in  the  mizzen-top-sail,  and 
handed  the  main-sail.  The  sea  was  very  heavy.  On  the 
9th  the  wind  was  more  moderate ; and  while  engaged  in 
spearing  porpoises,  one  of  the  men  fell  overboard  from  the 
bow,  and  went  directly  under  the  ship,  and  came  up  under 
her  stern.  The  life  buoy  was  thrown  over  to  him,  but 
being  an  indifferent  swimmer  he  was  long  in  his  efforts 
to  seize  it.  By  lowering  the  boat  and  rounding  about  the 
ship,  he  was  recovered  on  board  much  exhausted,  and  almost 
overcome  with  the  cold.  Hundreds  are  daily,  by  a great 


HEAVY  GALE. 


387 


variety  of  occurrences  taken  from  the  world,  and  the  cer- 
tain knowledge  awakens  but  feeble  sensations  in  our  bosoms; 
but  a solitary  case  of  individual  danger  and  suffering  which 
we  witness,  arouses  all  our  anxieties  and  sympathies,  and 
we  are  grateful  when  relieved  by  the  safety  of  the  suf- 
ferer. 

On  the  16th  and  17th,  the  gale  was  tremendous.  We 
were  in  latitude  about  47°  south,  and  120°  west  longitude. 
With  nearly  every  sail  taken  in,  we  could  only  run  before 
the  wind,  which  was  from  the  north-west,  and  the  waves  were 
constantly  breaking  over  our  bulwarks.  Such  was  the 
roaring  of  the  wind  and  breaking  waves,  that  it  was  diffi- 
cult for  the  orders  of  the  captain  to  be  heard,  upon  his  loud- 
est voice,  from  midship,  forward  or  aft.  The  wind  blew 
tons  of  water  into  the  air  and  scattered  them  into  ten  thou- 
sand sprays.  I never  had  such  evidence  of  the  power  of 
wind  and  water,  nor  of  the  admirable  manner  the  ship  could 
live  in  such  a gale.  She  would  roll  upon  the  waves  and 
plunge  and  rise  again  upon  the  mountain  billows.  The 
whole  scene  was  fraught  with  magnificence,  terror,  and 
grandeur.  It  was  a great  favor  that  we  had  a courageous 
and  experienced  captain  ; and  a sober,  active,  and  obe- 
dient crew  ; and  above  all  the  protection  of  Heaven.  Two 
men  were  constantly  at  the  wheel,  selected  from  our  best 
steersmen.  We  shipped  a great  quantity  of  water,  and 
on  the  night  of  the  17th,  the  fore  deck  had  scarcely  at 
any  time,  less  than  a foot,  or  two  feet  of  water,  the  waves 
breaking  over  faster  than  the  water  could  pass  through 
the  scuppers.  Two  pumps  were  at  work  a large  portion 
of  the  time  to  keep  the  ship  clear,  so  much  water  was  con- 
stantly finding  its  way  down  the  closed  hatches  and  other 
leakages  of  the  deck.  The  two  men  at  each  pump  la- 


388 


THE  NODDY  AND  ALBATROSS. 


bored  so  forcibly,  that  it  was  necessary  to  be  relieved  by 
others  every  three  minutes.  I reflected  on  the  condition  of 
those  who  were  not  prepared  for  death,  and  that  even 
to  a Christian  a quiet  deathbed  would  be  preferable  to 
leaving  the  world  in  such  a scene  of  confusion.  But  we 
were  spared  in  great  kindness,  and  the  following  morning 
the  wind  began  to  abate.  Captain  Allyn,  who  had  been 
into  most  of  the  principal  seas,  and  around  both  of  the 
great  Capes,  said  he  never  saw,  except  in  a typhoon  which 
he  encountered  on  the  Japan  coast,  any  gale  which  equal- 
led this. 

The  gales  continued  with  frequent  squalls  of  hail  and 
rain  until  the  28th,  when  we  found  we  were  driven  to  the 
59°  of  south  latitude,  and  77°  west  longitude.  This  was 
farther  south  of  Cape  Horn  than  we  wished  to  go.  The 
weather  was  cold  and  thick,  the  thermometer  ranging  be- 
tween 41°  and  47°  for  several  days.  On  the  1st  of  March 
we  saw  for  the  first  time  after  leaving  Tahiti,  a sail  to  the 
windward  heading  south-west,  but  were  unable  to  speak 
her.  It  was  very  pleasant  to  find  our  latitude  lessening  in 
our  homeward  course,  though  we  were  not  up  with  the  Cape 
until  the  third  of  March.  During  the  gales,  and  especially 
in  stormy  weather,  our  vessel  was  very  frequently  visited 
by  a bird  which  navigators  call  the  Noddy,  and  which  is 
easily  taken  by  the  hand.  It  is  of  the  Tern  genus,  twelve 
inches  long,  slenderly  formed;  its  plumage  is  a dark  sooty 
brown,  excepting  the  top  of  its  head  which  is  dusky  white. 
The  Albatross  also  was  constantly  flying  about  us,  regard- 
less of  wind  and  waves.  Our  men  caught  several  of  them 
with  a hook,  the  heads  of  which,  when  standing  upon  the 
deck,  were  four  feet  high;  their  aler  measurement  was  ten 
feet.  Although  they  are  generally  of  a brown  color,  yet  iu 


MAGELLANIC  CLOUDS. 


389 


the  region  of  Cape  Horn,  they  vary  from  a mixture  of  brown 
and  white,  to  an  almost  entire  white.  They  are  the  largest 
class  of  the  feathered  race. 

We  had  for  a long  time  an  opportunity  of  observing  the 
Magellanic  clouds;  which  are  three  in  number,  two  lumin- 
ous and  one  black;  about  thirty  degrees  distant  from  each 
other,  and  fixed  in  their  relative  situations  as  are  the  fixed 
stars.  Although  I had  noticed  them,  supposing  them  to  be 
clouds,  and  wondering  how  an  illuminated  cloud  should  be 
seen  at  all  times  of  the  night,  and  preserve  its  position  with 
an  outline  so  well  defined  and  so  plainly  marked,  yet  my 
mind  was  not  wholly  satisfied  respecting  them,  until  the 
Mate  of  the  ship,  who  had  seen  them  in  previous  voyages, 
and  who  possessed  considerable  astronomical  knowledge, 
pointed  out  to  me  some  of  their  characteristics.  The  weath- 
er in  those  high  southern  latitudes  being  so  uniformly  thick 
and  cloudy,  prevented  our  observing  them  so  early,  or  care- 
fully as  we  might  otherwise  have  done.  They  were  distinct- 
ly visible  for  weeks,  keeping  their  relative  situation,  and  their 
altitude  above  the  southern  horizon,  lessening  to  the  beholder 
according  as  his  latitude  diminished  while  he  proceeded 
north.  The  forms  of  each  are  about  five  degrees  in  di- 
ameter. The  luminous  ones  undoubtedly  are  formed  by 
clusters  of  stars,  so  numerous  and  contiguous,  and  so 
distant  as  only  to  give  a glimmering  light  like  luminous 
clouds,  which  gives  them  their  name ; and  the  black  one  is 
very  probably  the  entire  absence  of  all  light.  I gazed  at 
these,  night  after  night,  with  wonder  and  admiration.  It 
seemed  to  me,  that  looking  at  the  dark  one,  was  looking  be- 
yond created  nature  into  infinite  space. 

Gales  occurred  occasionally  after  we  doubled  Cape  Horn, 

but  most  of  the  time  was  pleasant  and  the  winds  favorable, 

34 


390 


FUNERAL  AT  SEA. 


until  the  27th  of  March  in  south  latitude  23°  27',  and  West 
longitude  28°  34,  the  wind  came  around  to  the  north,  and 
continued  to  blow  from  a northerly  direction  for  ten  days, 
which  retarded  our  progress,  and  carried  us  off  our  course 
to  the  east,  until  we  were  brought  into  26°  west  longitude, 
where  we  changed  our  course  west  by  north.  On  the  first 
of  April,  we  spoke  and  East  Indiaman.  She  was  a very 
large,  fine-looking  ship,  of  about  eight  hundred  tons,  well 
filled  with  men,  women,  and  children,  who  probably  were 
passengers  for  New  Holland.  This  was  the  first  ship  we 
had  spoken  after  the  Spartan,  near  the  line  on  the  other 
side  of  the  continent.  It  is  difficult  to  imagine  how  pleas- 
ant it  is  to  see  and  speak  a ship  after  having  been  months 
at  sea.  A few  hours  after,  we  saw  another  East  Indiaman, 
but  did  not  speak  her.  By  falling  in  with  these  ships,  we 
found  we  were  so  near  Africa,  that  we  were  in  the  track  of 
ships  from  Europe  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  same  day  we  buried  one  of  the  seamen  in  the  great 
deep.  He  was  a man  who  in  early  life  was  trained  up  in 
the  care  of  pious  parents,  but  whose  after  life  was  marked 
by  vices,  which  in  their  consequences  led  to  a comparative- 
ly early  death.  It  was  a solemn  scene  when  we  committed 
his  remains  to  the  water  grave.  The  colors  were  raised 
half  mast,  the  whole  ship’s  company  collected  around ; the 
body,  with  weights  attached,  was  laid  upon  a plank  at  the 
gang-way ; and  we  paused  to  dwell  for  a momeut  on  death 
and  the  dread  scenes  beyond.  I addressed  them  in  a few 
remarks  suggested  by  the  occasion,  and  after  a prayer,  the 
plank  was  gently  moved  over  the  side  of  the  ship,  and  the 
dead  disappeared  to  be  seen  no  more. 

On  the  2d,  we  made  Martin  Vass  islands,  which  are  five 
in  number,  composed  wholly  of  volcanic  rocks,  without  any 


MARTIN  VASS  AND  TRINIDAD  ISLANDS. 


391 


soil ; some  of  them  are  cones,  shooting  up  four  or  five  hun- 
dred feet.  Two  are  very  small  and  needle  pointed.  They 
are  all  so  precipitous,  and  the  sea  constantly  breaking 
against  them,  that  there  is  no  landing.  Their  forms  are 
fantastical ; one  of  them  having  the  appearance  of  a forti- 
fication with  bastions,  about  which  are  needle  points  resem- 
bling men  on  guard.  They  are  in  20°  31'  south  latitude,  and 
28°  38'  west  longitude.  By  changing  our  course  more 
westerly  we  made  Trinidad,  off  against  St.  Roque,  which  is 
an  island  of  considerable  size,  and  in  latitude  20°  28',  and 
longitude  29°  5'.  Near  evening  we  were  fifteen  miles  from 
it,  and  wishing  to  land  in  the  morning,  we  took  in  sail  and 
lay  off  for  the  night.  Some  Portuguese  once  settled  upon 
it,  but  it  is  so  difficult  of  access,  that  they  abandoned  it,  and 
it  is  now  without  any  inhabitants. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d,  we  ran  down  to  within  three 
miles  of  the  island,  and  manned  three  boats  to  go  on  shore ; 
but  finding  no  place  free  from  breakers,  gave  up  the  at- 
tempt, caught  a few  fish  near  the  shores,  and  after  being 
much  annoyed  with  flies  which  came  off  to  us,  we  returned 
to  the  ship,  and  with  a favorable  breeze  pursued  our  course. 
This  island  is  also  volcanic,  has  an  iron  bound  shore,  and 
is  mountainous,  the  highest  part  of  which  is  about  fifteen 
hundred,  or  two  thousand  feet.  It  is  a place  of  resort  for 
multitudes  of  birds  and  sea  fowl,  some  of  which  are  large. 
I had  an  opportunity  to  see,  but  not  to  examine,  the  man-of- 
war  hawk.  They  are  numerous  here,  and  while  they  are 
handsome,  they  are  also  ravenous,  always  taking  their  prey 
upon  the  wing.  There  were  many  of  the  perfectly  silky 
white  species  of  the  Tern,  which  hovered  over  us  with  great 
tameness,  as  though  they  wished  to  form  an  acquaintance 
with  us,  not  suspecting  any  hostility, 


392 


EVENINGS  AT  SEA. 


Most  of  our  nights  as  well  as  days  for  a long  time  were 
clear,  and  the  stars  were  seen  with  remarkable  brightness. 
What  has  been  described  by  others  of  evenings  at  sea,  in 
the  southern  hemisphere,  I had  an  opportunity  of  observing 
with  admiration.  The  richest  colors  of  red,  orange,  and 
yellow,  are  spread  over  the  western  sky  after  the  setting 
sun,  and  often  over  the  whole  concave  of  heaven.  No  pen- 
cil of  art  can  imitate  the  tints  and  hues  which  blend  in  soft- 
ness over  this  scene  of  beauty.  Nature’s  pencil  only  can 
lay  on  these  delicate  shades,  and  add  to  it  the  brilliancy, 
ever  varying,  of  so  much  richness  and  splendor. 

In  the  deep  seas  we  did  not  see  many  fish ; of  the  few 
which  came  under  our  observation,  the  dorado , or  as  com- 
monly called,  the  dolphin,  and  the  pilot  fish  excelled  in  the 
beauty  of  their  colors.  The  former,  when  taken  upon  deck, 
constantly  changed  its  colors  from  the  bright  purple  to  the 
gold,  the  bluish  green,  and  the  silver  white,  and  these  spread- 
ing out  into  vanishing  shades.  The  pilot  fish  is  equally 
beautiful,  but  is  singular  in  the  choice  of  company  and  em- 
ployment ; always  being  found  with  the  shark,  and  conduct- 
ing him  to  his  prey,  from  which  it  derives  its  name. 

The  flying  fish  is  a curiosity,  furnished  with  powers  for 
occupying  both  air  and  water,  but  finds  no  friend  in  either ; 
pursued  by  the  dolphin  or  some  other  fish,  it  swims  with  all 
speed  until  it  can  no  longer  escape  its  destructive  enemy, 
and  then  takes  to  flight  in  the  air,  where  the  albatross  and 
the  man-of-war  hawk  hover  to  make  it  their  prey.  In  its 
flight  it  often  falls  upon  the  decks  of  ships,  when  man  shows 
it  no  mercy. 

On  the  19th  of  April  we  passed  the  equator.  For  a few 
days  we  had  calms  or  only  light  winds  with  showers.  The 
heat  was  very  intense,  and  to  be  becalmed  under  these 


CROSS  THE  EQUATOR LAND  DESCRIED. 


393 


circumstances  is  more  to  be  dreaded  than  gales.  But  we 
were  much  favored,  and  soon  found  ourselves  in  north 
latitude,  and  it  was  with  sensations  of  delight  that  I again 
beheld  the  North  Star,  though  but  just  above  the  horizon. 
I hailed  it  as  the  harbinger  of  good,  and  the  future  guide 
to  the  long  forsaken  home  and  friends  which  I now  realized 
that  I was  fast  approaching. 

All  objects  at  sea  are  considered  worthy  of  notice,  and 
we  observed  the  gulf  weed  in  great  abundance  before  we 
came  to  the  gulf-stream.  It  is  an  aquatic  plant  of  a pecu- 
liar light  green  color,  and  floats  upon  the  service  of  the 
water.  We  entered  and  passed  the  stream  on  the  14th  of 
May,  in  36°  37'  north  latitude;  and  though  a rough  sea  is 
generally  expected  here,  yet  we  had  a very  pleasant  time. 
The  current  is  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour,  and  the 
temperature  seven  degrees  warmer  than  the  adjacent  water. 

On  the  17th  of  May,  at  three  in  the  afternoon,  we  were 
cheered  with  the  cry  from  the  man  at  the  mast  head,  “ Land 
ho!  ahead”  It  proved  to  be  Block  Island.  We  came  in 
sight  of  the  light-house  in  the  evening,  but  too  late  to  at- 
tempt to  get  into  the  harbor  before  morning,  and  therefore 
lay  off  for  the  night.  In  the  morning  we  found  ourselves 
among  various  shipping  bound  to  different  ports.  We  pass- 
ed Montauk  Point  and  drew  near  to  New  London,  where 
the  sight  of  the  city,  the  shipping  in  the  harbor,  the  country 
around,  and  the  islands  dressed  in  green,  were  most  grateful,, 
especially  to  one  so  long  conversant  with  heathen  countries 
and  a wide  expanse  of  ocean.  Passed  up  the  Thames  to 
the  city,  and  I rejoiced  to  land  once  more  upon  Christian 
and  civilized  shores,  my  native  land,  my  country!  In 
taking  leave  of  the  Phoenix,  I felt  it  due  to  the  captain  and 

crew  to  say,  that  I received  from  them  every  kind  attention 

34* 


394 


ARRIVAL  AT  HOME* 


I could  wish,  and  being  a temperance  ship,  I did  not  hear  a 
profane  word  from  any  while  on  board.  We  had  public 
worship,  during  the  voyage  on  the  Sabbath,  and  the  word  of 
God  was  blessed,  as  there  was  reason  to  believe,  to  the 
saving  conversion  of  some  souls.  I found  kind  friends  in 
New  London,  and  after  arranging  my  business,  directed  my 
way  to  Ithaca,  where  I arrived  on  the  23d  of  May,  after  an 
absence  of  more  than  two  years  and  two  months,  and  having 
accomplished  a journey  of  twenty-eight  thousand  miles. 


APPENDIX 


VOCABULARY  OF  INDIAN  LANGUAGES. 

NEZ  PERCE  LANGUAGE. 


English . 

God, 

Spirit, 

Father, 

Man, 

Woman, 

Mother, 

Child, 

Brother, 

Sister, 

Husband, 

Wife, 

I, 

Thou, 

He, 

She, 

It, 

They, 

People, 

Heaven, 

Earth, 

Water, 

Fire, 

Snow, 

Rain, 

Wood, 

Grass, 

Hell  or  bad  spirit, 


Indian , 

hemakis  Tota. 

koonapa. 

tota. 

hama. 

iat. 

peka. 

meaits. 

uskeep. 

axsip. 

hama. 

waipna. 

en. 

Em. 

emim. 

aiat. 

ke. 

elahne  tetokan. 

tetokan. 

accompenaka. 

waitush. 

eoos. 

aula. 

maika. 

waikit. 

haitsu. 

pax. 

koonapa  kapseish. 


396 


VOCABULARY. 


Horse, 

White  Bear, 
Black  Bear, 
Beaver, 

Otter, 

Deer, 

Moose, 

Buffalo, 

Wolf, 

Salmon, 

Trout, 

Gun, 

Powder, 

Ball, 

Stone, 

What  is  that? 
Who  is  that  ? 
There, 

Here, 

Where, 

When, 

How  many  ? 
None, 

All, 

Plenty, 

Near  by, 

Great  way  off, 
This  road, 
Stop, 

Go, 

Run, 

Go  fast, 

Stop  here, 
Encamp, 

Sleep, 


shecum. 

hahats. 

eakat. 

taxpull. 

collas. 

enishnim. 

taissheep. 

cocoil. 

siyah. 

natso. 

wowalthum. 

temoon.  • 

popokes. 

saip. 

pishwa. 

etu  ke. 

eshe  ke. 

koone. 

kene. 

mene. 

mowwa. 

moits. 

siou. 

oekalla. 

elahne. 

keemta. 

wyat. 

iskit. 

collo. 

coetuc. 

willaikit. 

haum  teets. 

collo  kene. 

wispeix, 

penemeek. 


VOCABULARY. 


397 


Eat, 

I hear, 

You  hear, 

I understand, 
Come, 

I know, 

You  know, 

He  knows, 
They  know, 

I do  not  know, 
Talk, 

Ride, 

Wait, 

Swim, 

Love, 

Hate, 

Kill, 

Alive, 

Make, 

Take, 

Carry, 

Give, 

Pay, 

Make  fire, 

Worship, 

Smoke, 

Sun,  moon, 
Prairie, 
Mountain, 
Friend, 

Chief, 

Nez  Perce, 
Blackfoot, 
Bonnax, 
American, 


hipsh. 

en  amachish. 

em  amachish. 

en  amacus. 

come. 

en  soko. 

em  soko. 

emim  soko. 

elahne  tetokan  soko. 

waiitu  en  soko. 

tumtein. 

wyatcus. 

coats. 

shuway. 

aitou. 

waiitu  aitou. 

wapseou. 

waikus. 

ainees. 

enip. 

enip  coeta. 
enahanim. 
tumaitcus. 
ailix. 

tolla  poosa. 

keieta. 

hasumtooks. 

paix. 

mashum. 

sextua. 

meohot. 

numepo. 

quasne. 

tuelca. 

sueapo. 


398 


VOCABULARY. 


Frenchman, 

allima. 

Head, 

hooshus. 

Hair, 

hookoo. 

Arm, 

artum. 

Leg, 

waiu. 

Foot, 

akooa. 

Cloth, 

tahea. 

Saddle, 

supen  sapoos. 

Pack, 

supen  saps. 

Beads, 

collowin. 

Good, 

tois. 

Bad, 

kapseis. 

No, 

waiitu. 

Yes, 

ai. 

Great, 

hemakis. 

Small, 

coots. 

Sick, 

comitsa. 

Well, 

penamina. 

To-day, 

tax. 

Yesterday, 

watish. 

Once  more, 

nox  emaka. 

White, 

hihi. 

Black, 

cinmo  cimmeo 

Red, 

ilpelp. 

Vermilion, 

ailish. 

Paint, 

penasuet. 

. nox. 

10  poetumpt. 

! lapeet. 

11  nox  tit. 

i metait. 

12  lapeet  tit. 

peelep. 

20  laap  tit. 

pahut. 

30  metaip  tit. 

elaix. 

40  pelap  tit. 

quoenapt. 

50  pahap  tit. 

wemuttut. 

quoies. 

100  pooetap  tit. 

VOCABULARY. 


399 


VOCABULARY  OF  THE  KLICATAT  NATION,  WHO  INHABIT  THE 
COUNTRY  NORTH  OF  THE  CASCADES. 


English . 

God, 

Evil  spirit, 
Sun, 

Moon, 

Stars, 

Fire, 

Earth, 

Water, 

Stone, 

Wood, 

House, 

Bread, 

Fish, 

Deer, 

Bird, 

Cow, 

Horse, 

Dog, 

Boat, 

Man, 

Woman, 

Girl, 

Boy, 

Fingers, 

Foot, 

Toe, 

Tongue, 

Ear, 

Mouth, 

Lip, 

Black, 


Indian . 

Meyoh. 

melah, 

an. 

ulhigh'. 
kashlo. 
lokkowouks. 
te  ’tsum. 
chow  wass. 

’p’s  swah. 

il  quass. 

enneet. 

shappleel. 

t’kuinnat. 

owinnat. 

’hat  ’hot. 

moos  moos  stun. 

kosee. 

kosikkosee. 

quassass. 

wince. 

iyet. 

p’teeniks. 

asswan. 

pahhahtopat. 

wattekas. 

owhunghe. 

melleese. 

misshu  (plu.)  pesahmisshu* 
metolla’hhow. 
um,  (plu.)pesah  um. 
chernook. 


400 


VOCABULARY. 


White, 

pillas. 

Green, 

lahm’t. 

Yellow, 

penahkunnootowass. 

Red, 

klutsah. 

Good, 

seyah. 

Bad, 

chilooeet. 

High, 

‘quaahme. 

Low, 

metee. 

Many, 

hugh’lak. 

Few, 

millah. 

Little, 

iksiks. 

Who? 

sindewah. 

What? 

sinmisswah. 

Knife, 

hahbittelme. 

Bow, 

toominpass. 

Arrow, 

kiasso. 

Gun, 

toowinpass. 

Sea, 

attackass. 

River, 

wannah. 

Lake, 

wattum. 

Mountain, 

‘ke‘h. 

Hill, 

pussque. 

Valley, 

‘tkop. 

Plain, 

tak. 

Here, 

itche. 

There, 

ekkone. 

Near, 

‘tsahpah. 

Far  off, 

weat‘tpah. 

Night, 

‘tset. 

Day, 

echoosah. 

Where, 

minnan. 

When, 

mittach. 

I walk, 

inikwenahsah. 

I talk, 

sinewesah. 

None, 

chahow. 

VOCABULARY. 


401 


I know, 

I have  known, 

I see, 

I hear, 

I taste, 

I smell, 

I, 

Thou, 

He, 

She, 

Head, 

Eye, 

Back, 

Come, 

Go, 

Give, 

Large, 

Smaller, 

Smallest, 

Beauty, 

All, 

True, 

False, 

Chief, 

Common  men, 
My  father, 

My  mother, 
Elder  brother, 
Younger  brother, 
Sister, 

Husband, 

Yes, 

No, 

Beaver* 

Rabbit, 


assook  sah. 

me  we  sah  sooh  sah. 

enahukheno  sah. 

innasick  sah. 

quatas  sah. 

annookse  sah. 

sah. 

imk‘. 

equak. 

equakiik. 

chlamtukh. 

tats‘k. 

koopkoop. 

winnum. 

winnak. 

annik. 

‘nche. 

mi‘nche* 

ooksooks. 

seeghewah. 

k’lhweek. 

chawnumsisk. 

t‘sis. 

kooMtup. 

wullumteen. 

hahtootas. 

naheclas. 

nahnahnas. 

incoks. 

inchats. 

inman. 

deh. 

waht. 

wispuss. 

sin  we. 


35 


402 


VOCABULARY. 


Cat, 

Wolf, 

Bear, 

Otter, 

Laziness, 

Sleep, 

Soft, 

Strength, 

Swan, 

Goat, 

Beads, 

Cold, 

Hard, 

1 lah‘s, 

2 neep% 

3 mettapt*, 

4 peneep% 

5 pahhat, 

6 p‘tuhninis, 

7 tooskas, 

8 pahhahhemaht, 

9 ‘tsawlawsimkah, 

10  hotem, 

11  lah‘swappena. 

VOCABULARY  OE 

God, 

Heaven, 

Evil  Spirit, 

Hell, 

Sun, 

Moon, 

Stars, 

Fire, 

Earth, 


wasswass. 

enahte. 

‘hollees. 

nooksi. 

ilkkah. 

‘tsotah. 

uquatuquat. 

h‘too. 

wahhalow. 

powyanin. 

kcpput. 

‘tsoisah. 

k‘ttet‘k. 

12  neep‘twappena, 

13  mettaptwappena, 
20  neeptit, 

30  mettaptit, 

40  peneeptit, 

50  pahhaptit, 

60  p‘tuhninsaptit, 

70  tooskahsaptit, 

80  pahhahtusapctit, 
90  ‘tsaulochsaptit, 
100  potemtit. 

CALAPOOA  NATION. 

‘ntsompate. 

ahlupklooah. 

ehwakehe. 

owievenah. 

‘npeun. 

‘ntope. 

‘ntsalowah. 

ummi. 

umpullo. 


THE 


VOCABULARY. 


403 


Wind, 

Water, 

Wood, 

Stone, 

Bone, 

House, 

Bread, 

Fish, 

Deer, 

Elk, 

Bird, 

Horse, 

Cow, 

Dog, 

Boat, 

Man, 

Woman, 

Boy, 

Girl, 

I, 

Thou, 

He, 

She, 

My  father, 
Your  father, 
My  mother, 
Elder  brother, 
Sister, 
Husband, 
Wife, 

Yes, 

No, 

Head, 

Mouth, 

Chin, 


‘ntolouh. 

‘mpahke. 

owattuk. 

‘ntaugh. 

‘ntsa. 

ummi‘. 

shappleel. 

‘ntumuak. 

ammoke£. 

‘ntokah. 

noknok. 

kuetan. 

moosmoos. 

£n‘tul. 

‘mpaw. 

‘noihee. 

ehwahktsut. 

ehwahpyah. 

‘mpeena. 

tsa. 

mah. 

annoihe. 

ahwahkkotsut. 

hum  nee. 

makkan  nee. 

sin  nee. 

tah. 

shetup. 

tahwahke. 

tahwahke. 

aw. 

kussowe. 

unquah. 

tinte. 

‘tlak. 


404 


VOCABULARY. 


Teeth , 

Arm, 

Hand, 

Finger, 

Foot, 

Ear, 

Black, 

White, 

Blue, 

Green, 

Red, 

Good, 

Bad, 

High, 

Low, 

Many, 

Few, 

Large, 

Smallj 

Who, 

What, 

Knife, 

Bow, 

Arrow, 

Gun, 

Sea, 

River, 

Lake, 

Mountain* 

Valley, 

Night, 

Day, 

Here, 

There, 

Near, 


tinte. 

t'ntooque. 

tdakquah. 

taw‘nah. 

teuofoh. 

toandunkahtah. 

mo‘. 

mow‘. 

‘mpulunk. 

pitchish. 

‘tselow. 

misso. 

kaskah. 

tshamayunk. 

wallah. 

milloe. 

‘mponuk. 

pellah. 

etoo. 

me‘eh. 

annikkee. 

‘nkamistik. 

unchin. 

un‘owsuk. 

sukwallahlah. 

mullak. 

‘ntsok. 

wassetnummeke. 

peotahmefook. 

wallah. 

mooyoo. 

‘mpeyon. 

m‘hash. 

piefan. 

‘mchillah. 


VOCABULARY. 


405 


Far  off, 

mdokkio. 

Where, 

mutchoo. 

When, 

tahnondeh. 

To  talk, 

tanuk. 

To  walk, 

owallowah. 

None, 

‘nwa. 

I see, 

chats‘onhot‘n. 

Beaver, 

‘nkipeah. 

All, 

teloh. 

Chief, 

‘ntsombeek. 

Common  men, 

anwoekee. 

Come, 

mahek. 

Go, 

tattea. 

Give, 

mahaque. 

Swan, 

mow. 

Rabbit, 

umpon. 

Wolf, 

molent. 

Bear, 

(mmo. 

Sleep, 

towi. 

Hard, 

‘p‘tsakkolloo. 

Soft, 

‘mput‘1. 

Boil, 

liplip. 

1 towneh, 

10  teeneefeahah, 

2 kamah, 

11  teenefeahpetownah. 

3 peshin, 

12  teenefeahpekamah. 

4 tohwah, 

20  keefotenefeah. 

5 wul, 

30  p£shintenefeah. 

6 taffo, 

40  tohwatenefeah. 

7 p£sinmewe, 

50  wultenefeah. 

8 ke‘mewe. 

100  tenefeah. 

9 ‘quisteh, 

1000  tumpeah. 

VOCABULARY  OF  THE 

CHENOOK  LANGUAGE  AS  SPOKEN 

ABOUT 

FORT  VANCOUVER. 

God, 

Cannum. 

Heaven, 

coosah, 

406 


VOCABULARY. 


Earth, 

illaha. 

Fire, 

olaptska.  ' 

Water, 

isuck. 

Sea, 

wecoma. 

River, 

ibolt. 

Sun, 

otlah. 

Moon, 

ootleum. 

Evil  spirit, 

skokoom. 

Hell, 

skokoom. 

Boat, 

conim. 

Knife, 

opitsah. 

Gun, 

sucwallal. 

Powder, 

poolalla. 

Ball, 

colietan. 

Air, 

kummataz. 

i, 

nika. 

Thou, 

mika. 

He, 

yahkah. 

She, 

yahkah. 

It  or  them, 

klaska. 

Chief, 

tie. 

Boy, 

kaskas. 

Girl, 

1‘kpho. 

Sister, 

ahts. 

Father, 

tilecummama. 

Mother, 

stdlmama. 

People, 

tilecum. 

Yes, 

ah,  aha. 

No, 

wayick  or  wake. 

Good, 

close. 

Bad, 

wake  close. 

Very  bad, 

mestsa. 

Large, 

hias. 

Small, 

tunas. 

Far, 

sia. 

VOCATJLARY. 


407 


Little  way, 
Great  way, 

To  go  fast, 
Not  fast, 
Black, 

White, 

Blue, 

Red, 

Green, 

High, 

Low, 

Now, 

Much, 

Little, 

Who, 

What, 

Mountain, 

Valley, 

Where, 

Here, 

Night, 

None, 

Bear, 

Beaver, 

Fox, 

Wolf, 

Deer, 

Horse, 

Cow, 

Dog, 

Salmon, 

Bird, 

Speak, 

I speak, 

Thou  speakest, 


tunas  sia. 

hias  sia. 

clatua  hiuc. 

wake  hiuc. 

klaait. 

t’koop. 

spock. 

pelpil. 

peteish. 

saghalle. 

kekulle. 

witka. 

oghooway. 

tunas. 

‘tkaksta. 

ikta. 

saghalle  illaha. 

kekulle  illaha. 

cah. 

ookook. 

pollakle. 

haloo. 

siano. 

eena. 

tiskowkow. 

leelo. 

moueech. 

kuetan. 

moosmoos. 

kamux. 

quanagh. 

kallakalla. 

wawa. 

nica  wawa. 

mica  wawa. 


408 


VOCABULARY. 


He  speaks, 

They  speak, 

Make, 

I  make, 

Thou  makest, 

He  makes, 

They  make, 

Come, 

Perhaps,  or  1 do  not  know 
Understand, 

I understand, 

Now  I understand, 

Sleep, 

I have,  or  it  is  with  me, 

I walk, 

Long  ago, 

See, 

Eat, 

1 eght, 

2 moxt, 

3 none, 

4 ‘lakit, 

5 quinum, 

6 tohhum, 

7 sinnamox, 


yakka  wawa. 

klaska  wawa. 

mammook, 

nica  mammook. 

mica  mammook. 

yakka  mammook. 

klaska  mammook. 

chawko. 

clunas. 

cumetax. 

nica  cumetax. 

alta  nica  cumetax. 

moosom. 

mitlit  nica. 

nica  clatuwa. 

aunacotta. 

noneneech. 

mucamuc. 

8 stoghtkin, 

9 quiitz, 

10  taughlelum, 

20  moxttaghlelum, 

40  ‘lakittaghlelum, 

100  taughlelum  taughlelum 


The  Philologist,  by  examining  the  specimens  of  the  lan- 
guages in  the  foregoing  vocubularies,  will  notice  how  en- 
tirely distinct  they  are  from  each  other,  and  may  form  his 
own  opinions  in  regard  to  their  origin.  The  languages  of 
other  Indian  nations  are  equally  distinct.  The  use  of  the 
commas,  as  in  ‘ke‘h,  mountain,  ‘noihee,  man,  is  designed 
to  designate  a guttural  sound,  wholly  inarticulate. 


0 


